[Syty] Fuel Pump

[DOlivares]

I used a car-lift and had access to a couple of those 6' screw-jacks which I was able to use to precisely locate that tank into any posture I wanted-- both while lowering and re-hooking it.  When I think of all the screw-tweaking I had to do to get that tank into the position I wanted it, bungee-cords might have been a better bet....  Next time!

I also pre-soaked all those fittings with KROIL, which outperforms PB Blaster and 'WAY-outperforms Liquid Wrench, WD-40, etc.

Finally, "dissertation" has two S's in it!

Ever-Helpful Denny
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

----- Original Message ----- 
From: Jason Granger 
To: Jeffrey Smirz ; syty at syty.org 
Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2006 8:52 PM
Subject: Re: [Syty] Fuel Pump


Probably some of the best advice I got when doing a Ty
fuel pump repeatedly was to use bungee straps to hold
the tank in place once you get the metal straps off.
It allows you room to shift the tank around while
getting the lines back on.

That and make sure the tank is as empty as you can get
it. I hooked up to the fuel rail and put +12V on the
fuel pump test lead, of course thats not an option
with a dead pump. But even a weak one will empty the
tank for you.

Also, before tearing into it spray the fitings down
with some PB Blaster, or whatever penetrating oil you
prefer.
It will lessen the chance of twisting the stock
brittle lines.

Use line wrenches not open ends to prevent rounding.

And I have heard more than once that removing the bed
on a Sy was easier than dropping the tank on the Ty.
Then again I never took Dennis' disertation on foreign
debris into consideration. On second thought I never
flushed any of the tanks I have done.

Part of the voltage supply problem at the pump is that
# of junctions/switches the power has to go through
before reaching the terminals at the pump. Look at any
SyTy schematic. There is a major voltage drop through
the park/neutral safety switch, the Oil pressure
switch and the ignition cylinder.
A common fix is to not rely on the marginal stock
wiring and use it only to trigger a relay supplying
fresh juice right off the alternator. This helps
insure you get whats at your alternator is AT the
pump. not -3V.

Best of luck getting it swapped, and go for the
Walbro.
It is designed to outperform the undersized stock pump
in every aspect.

Jason

--- Jeffrey Smirz <jsmirz at comcast.net> wrote:

> The Ty's OEM pump is down to about 25 psi.  The poor
> thing barely  
> runs.  I'm pumping and pulling the tank tomorrow. 
> There was a lot of  
> talk about Walbros in Feb. '05, but I'm not planning
> on racing,  
> except the occasional stoplight Grand Prix.  I'm
> leaning towards a  
> Bosch replacement pump.  Advice is
> welcome.....particularly if it  
> comes from the one and only serovilo, grtyphoon,
> bullyhart, merk1993  
> or any of the other great contributors.
> Jeff
> Syclone #950 (totaled in '99)
> Syclone #1654 (formerly Chris Pearson's)
> Typhoon #1165
> Indy, IN
> 
> > _______________________________________________
> Syty mailing list
> Syty at syty.org
> http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty
> 


Jas'
92 Typhoon #2407
www.sytyauthority.net
_______________________________________________
Syty mailing list
Syty at syty.org
http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20060419/26cd5a28/attachment.html