STILL [Syty] Broke & Stumped!
eqs at frontiernet.net
eqs at frontiernet.net
Fri Feb 3 14:02:13 CST 2006
Get in touch with Bruce Plecan of the turbo regal web site since he
took the stock sy/ty computer and made it work for the GN motor.
He has a wealth of knowledge on this subject.
Quoting DOlivares <seravilo at netzero.net>:
> BM Computer was good because they gave me a nice canned set of
> hex-tables to correspond to the changes I wanted to program FOR THE
> GN TURBO only. I'm trying to get the equivalent set-up for the SyTys
> now... from the same outfit if possible
>
> If you knew how long it took me to wean myself off my suped-up
> Commodore-64 to a PC, you'd understand my reluctance to trash my
> existing hardware/software and learn something else....
>
> D.O.
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jim Sloan
> To: 'DOlivares'
> Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 8:41 AM
> Subject: RE: STILL [Syty] Broke & Stumped!
>
>
> I don't know about BM computer, but the Pocket Programmer should work
> for most sy-ty chips. Transtronics (http://xtronics.com/) had
> upgraded the programmer to handle more chips, and you may need to do
> that, if you want multichip capabilities. Carl, at Transtronics,
> could tell you if your model would work with the chips you want to
> use.
>
> Datamaster is probably the most popular way to monitor the ALDL.
> Tunerpro is a free download, and can be used to monitor the aldl, and
> edit binaries. I also have Promgrammer and TunerCat for editing.
> Promgrammer is pretty cheap. TunerCat is more expensive.
>
> Emulators, like the Ostrich and Romutator, are useful if you have a
> wild build and need to make lots of changes to get things running. I
> used one when I first started burning 50 lb chips, and 55 lb chips.
> There wasn't much to go on then, except stock bins. A chip
> programmer is sufficient for most people, and is cheaper.
>
> Jim
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> From: DOlivares [mailto:seravilo at netzero.net]
> Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 8:09 AM
> To: Jim Sloan
> Cc: syty at syty.org
> Subject: Re: STILL [Syty] Broke & Stumped!
> Importance: High
>
>
> I've been pouring over his 'Site the past week and been thinking
> about the very same thing!
>
> I never really got into reprogramming the SyTy stuff and all my
> experience was based on work with the GN/TTA Buick chips after I
> invested in all that BM Computer/Pocket-Programmer stuff years ago.
> However, now that I want to move into the SyTy world with this gear,
> THOSE CLOWNS WON'T RESPOND TO ANY OF MY E-QUESTIONS and may well be
> out of business... or just not give a damn!
>
> I'm not sure which direction to take now and keep hearing about
> Tuner-Cats, Ostriches, Moates' wares-- and now you and your kind
> offer!
>
> Whatever I end up with, I would like to be able to DO MYSELF and not
> have to rely on the mails-- and other strangers. I am also reluctant
> to part with all my familiar BM Computer junk and learn a new system
> UNLESS I could be assured it was a more CAPABLE or versatile than
> what I got. Any ideas in this regard?
>
> D.O.
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jim Sloan
> To: 'DOlivares'
> Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 7:55 AM
> Subject: RE: STILL [Syty] Broke & Stumped!
>
>
> Dennis,
>
> I thought of something else. I can burn whatever binary you want
> onto a stock memcal, if you want to bypass the 10-1 hardware.
>
> Craig Moates at http://www.moates.net/index.php?cPath=25_36 also
> sells GM adapters, if you want to go that route. I think Craig's
> adapters are a little more robust than the old 10-1 hardware.
>
> Jim
>
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> From: DOlivares [mailto:seravilo at netzero.net]
> Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 10:01 AM
> To: Jim Sloan
> Cc: syty at syty.org
> Subject: STILL [Syty] Broke & Stumped!
> Importance: High
>
>
> Jim,
>
> When you say you keep around a "Spare ECM," do you mean the
> plug-ins or the whole ECM Box? Based on my latest tests, the FI
> Drivers-- and whatever controls them-- are being victimized by either
> a thermal or a timing (delay) problem. I understand how SEUs can
> screw up chips IN SPACE or other rad-hostile environments, but I
> kinda figured I was safe from all that junk in my car! I wonder who
> sent that cosmic ray my way...?
>
> I took out the 10-n-1 Interface yesterday but things are
> really no better. The Injectors batch-pulse fine then weakly at
> unpredictable times and for durations up to 30 seconds until I reach
> full-warm-up after about 7 minutes, depending on ambient air-temp.
> Sunday, the thing actually started pooping out (choking and
> sputtering but throwing nothing more than a Code 44, which is
> practically useless information!) on the expressway at 70mph... long
> after I was well into warm, closed-loopery. This thing is getting
> REALLY BAD and, as admitted before, I don't really know what to do
> about it! I can't even take it to a garage or even the dealer! They
> know less than I do and will only pull all my goodies and restore me
> to overpriced NOS crap for well over a THOU$AND! Do you know where I
> can get a new ECM... CHEAP? Know anybody who reconditions old ECMs?
> Electrodyne or Spearco or somone like that had a "E6" plug-compatible
> ECM which was PC-programmable, but I forgot all the details... maybe
> this is the time to go the DFI route once and for all...?
> Unfortunately, neither my wallet or my temperament are willing to
> part with all that Delco firmware just yet.
>
> In a few hours, I'm gonna gut the whole ECM out of my
> still-on-jackstands Typhoon and do more swap-in tests on the Old
> Horse #773. IF that solves my problem-- and I still have profound
> reservations-- I'll still need to do something in the way of
> rehabilitating my old MEMCAL or ECM-- not to mention the 10-n-1
> upgrade I want to eventually put back.
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> D.O.
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: DOlivares
> To: Jim Sloan ; syty at syty.org
> Sent: Monday, January 02, 2006 12:06 PM
> Subject: Re: [Syty] Broke & Stumped!
>
>
> Thanks... so far, and happy New Year... et pax hominibus boni voluntatis!
> [You know who you are.]
>
> Unfortunately, I have tried all those diagnostic trees-- even a
> couple of bushes for good measure! This episode has been going on
> for nearly a month. As I said, I'm running out of hardware to
> swap-out. The only things I haven't diddled with is the EST Module
> in the Distributor and of course the ECM/chip.
>
> The reason I haven't fooled with those things is that the
> misbehavior complained of is SO PREDICTABLE and only afflicts
> COLD-START-UP conditions, except when it's really cold outside in
> which case I will get precisely ONE chug-a-lug spasm about 5 minutes
> into the run-up to full operating temperature... just after
> everything had been going just fine. That's the worst of it... as
> far as I can tell without a scantool... seat-of-the-pants power and
> smoothness is better than ever, otherwise. This is no
> "intermittent." This is pure predictability! And my experience with
> bad chips and modules is that they either fail outright or exhibit
> sporadic, random upsets... before failing outright. That's not
> what's occurring. Even so, I might drop in my spare EST (Holley
> Annihilator) just for laughs....
>
> Keep thinking... what else could it be??? What's the connection
> to cold/cool ambient temperature?
>
> D.O.
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jim Sloan
> To: 'DOlivares' ; syty at syty.org
> Sent: Monday, January 02, 2006 8:11 AM
> Subject: RE: [Syty] Broke & Stumped!
>
>
> Happy New Year Dennis!
>
> I've had hardware problems with several of the 10-1 adapters. You
> could swap back to the stock memcal (and map sensor) to rule that
> out, if your build isn't too radical.
>
> I usually keep at least one spare ecm for a substitution test, and
> have seen quite a few fail in weird ways. Let me know if you need
> one.
>
> Sometimes it helps to go back to the basics, and follow the
> diagnostics in the service manual http://syty.org/old/d&e-code44.html
> .
>
> Just a few ideas, if you haven't already tried them.
>
> Jim
>
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
> From: syty-bounces at syty.org [mailto:syty-bounces at syty.org] On
> Behalf Of DOlivares
> Sent: Sunday, January 01, 2006 7:36 PM
> To: syty at syty.org
> Subject: [Syty] Broke & Stumped!
> Importance: High
>
>
> Who watches The Watcher?
>
> Who advises The Guru?
>
> Who assists The Good Samaritan?
>
> I think we're about to find out pretty soon-- at least until I
> can get my Lapdog running again (and one of the diagnostic programs
> to troubleshoot my li'l pony):
>
> Meanwhile, I NEED HELP! With my laptop in pieces all over the
> bench, I can't run DIACOM or DATALINK to give me clues about the
> usual suspects:
>
> Clean-livin' doesn't always pay off if my holidaze so far are
> any indication. I spent Christmas Eve on a carlift taking apart my
> right-front axle-- again!-- after being assured by our local
> "Gear-Guru" (who fully rebuilt that differential less than 6 months
> before I started hearing that same CLUNKING on left turns again) that
> all I needed was a new cir-clip (GM #14041989) to keep the axle from
> popping-out of the side-gear in the differential. HAH! More bad
> advice and I ended up taking a cab home.... More about that Horror
> Show in a later mailing.
>
> Meanwhile, we got our first technical freeze down here in what
> was becoming tropical San Antone on Nov. 17th and our first
> hard-freeze, appropriately, on Dec. 7th, and somewhere in between
> those times ol' Syclone #773 began throwing fits during start-up and
> for the first 5 or 6 minutes until the water jacket hits and stays at
> 180° or so. I'm stumped for the first time in a decade or more!
> Here's what happens:
>
> Since the new Walbro fuel-pump went in a few months ago,
> cranking times are way down... engine catches pretty quick, but now
> it won't stay lit and "choke" with the new IAC, which went in along
> with a new TPS and remote-adjustable FPR about a month before the new
> Walbro. Now, I have to feather the pedal once the ignition gets
> going and hold the throttle open a bit while the IAC hunts for about
> a dozen cycles making the tach swing about 1200 rpm back and forth
> until we hit the "sweet spot" and the engine takes off smoothly and
> the IAC-hunting stops, at least for a while. Now, it's safe to put
> her in gear and drive away as long as I keep a little positive bias
> in the pedal for the next few minutes every time I have to slow down
> to an idle or coast speed.
>
> THIS PROBLEM IS WICKEDLY WORSE ON COLD DAYS, where ambient air
> is in the 40s or below, which thankfully is rare. (Ain't this
> global-warming great!) However, on a couple of occasions when I did
> have to drive in the 30s-- and even after reaching full-warm-up
> temperature-- the engine starts cutting out seriously as the SES
> light comes on! Now, we're talking some MAJOR pumping of the pedal
> to keep things lit and if I can get on a clear piece of road and
> cruise a spell at 35 mph or better the problem goes away completely,
> until I shutdown and the engine gets cold again. I barely even
> recognize that SES light... hardly ever see it. Driving on warmer
> days never sees a recurrence of that mid-period cutting-out, and idle
> is smooth as is the rest of drivability. Warm start-ups see a few
> moments of that IAC-hunting, but the rpm-sweeps are only on the order
> of 500rpm and the whole anomaly goes away in about 30 seconds. I've
> NEVER encountered anything like this in my many years of wrenching!
> Now, it's time for some wretching!! All that ever gets logged in the
> way of a trouble-code is 44... not too helpful!
>
> Naturally, I replaced the O2 sensor-- no improvement at all!
> Everything described above instinctually told me this was a weird
> thermal transient in the injector-drive circuits or else the MAT, CTS
> or MAP I replaced (for the hell of it) 3 years ago needed to be
> switched again. So I did... one at a time to see if I could
> fault-locate the culprit that way. No dice! I'm running out of
> hardware to replace! I've even tried setting that 10-to-1 Chip to
> different settings, but the same nasty behavior persists-- the
> engine's as well as my own!
>
> WHO CAN TELL ME WHAT MY PROBLEM(S) IS? Be nice, now....
>
> Dennis O.
>
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
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