Fw: [Syty] Broke & Stumped!

Mel brassmonkey at ec.rr.com
Tue Jan 3 15:48:41 CST 2006


Your time has run out, put in more quarters.


Cruzin' Mel Man
Semper Fi

Keep your fork
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rick In Central Texas" <tydriver at hotmail.com>
To: <seravilo at netzero.net>; <syty at syty.org>
Sent: Tuesday, January 03, 2006 1:49 PM
Subject: RE: [Syty] Broke & Stumped!


> One possibility... your coolant temp sensor or wiring is faulty, and your 
> engine *thinks* it's hot when it's not.  This would give a lean condition. 
> HTH
>
> Rick
>
>
> From: "DOlivares" <seravilo at netzero.net>
> Reply-To: DOlivares <seravilo at netzero.net>
> To: <syty at syty.org>
> Subject: [Syty] Broke & Stumped!
> Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2006 19:36:17 -0600
>
> Who watches The Watcher?
>
> Who advises The Guru?
>
> Who assists The Good Samaritan?
>
> I think we're about to find out pretty soon-- at least until I can get my 
> Lapdog running again (and one of the diagnostic programs to troubleshoot 
> my li'l pony):
>
> Meanwhile, I NEED HELP!  With my laptop in pieces all over the bench, I 
> can't run DIACOM or DATALINK to give me clues about the usual suspects:
>
> Clean-livin' doesn't always pay off if my holidaze so far are any 
> indication.  I spent Christmas Eve on a carlift taking apart my 
> right-front axle-- again!-- after being assured by our local "Gear-Guru" 
> (who fully rebuilt that differential less than 6 months before I started 
> hearing that same CLUNKING on left turns again) that all I needed was a 
> new cir-clip (GM #14041989) to keep the axle from popping-out of the 
> side-gear in the differential.  HAH!  More bad advice and I ended up 
> taking a cab home....  More about that Horror Show in a later mailing.
>
> Meanwhile, we got our first technical freeze down here in what was 
> becoming tropical San Antone on Nov. 17th and our first hard-freeze, 
> appropriately, on Dec. 7th, and somewhere in between those times ol' 
> Syclone #773 began throwing fits during start-up and for the first 5 or 6 
> minutes until the water jacket hits and stays at 180° or so.  I'm stumped 
> for the first time in a decade or more!  Here's what happens:
>
> Since the new Walbro fuel-pump went in a few months ago, cranking times 
> are way down... engine catches pretty quick, but now it won't stay lit and 
> "choke" with the new IAC, which went in along with a new TPS and 
> remote-adjustable FPR about a month before the new Walbro.  Now, I have to 
> feather the pedal once the ignition gets going and hold the throttle open 
> a bit while the IAC hunts for about a dozen cycles making the tach swing 
> about 1200 rpm back and forth until we hit the "sweet spot" and the engine 
> takes off smoothly and the IAC-hunting stops, at least for a while.  Now, 
> it's safe to put her in gear and drive away as long as I keep a little 
> positive bias in the pedal for the next few minutes every time I have to 
> slow down to an idle or coast speed.
>
> THIS PROBLEM IS WICKEDLY WORSE ON COLD DAYS, where ambient air is in the 
> 40s or below, which thankfully is rare.  (Ain't this global-warming 
> great!)  However, on a couple of occasions when I did have to drive in the 
> 30s-- and even after reaching full-warm-up temperature-- the engine starts 
> cutting out seriously as the SES light comes on!  Now, we're talking some 
> MAJOR pumping of the pedal to keep things lit and if I can get on a clear 
> piece of road and cruise a spell at 35 mph or better the problem goes away 
> completely, until I shutdown and the engine gets cold again.  I barely 
> even recognize that SES light... hardly ever see it.  Driving on warmer 
> days never sees a recurrence of that mid-period cutting-out, and idle is 
> smooth as is the rest of drivability.  Warm start-ups see a few moments of 
> that IAC-hunting, but the rpm-sweeps are only on the order of 500rpm and 
> the whole anomaly goes away in about 30 seconds.  I've NEVER encountered 
> anything like this in my many years of wrenching!  Now, it's time for some 
> wretching!!  All that ever gets logged in the way of a trouble-code is 
> 44... not too helpful!
>
> Naturally, I replaced the O2 sensor-- no improvement at all!  Everything 
> described above instinctually told me this was a weird thermal transient 
> in the injector-drive circuits or else the MAT, CTS or MAP I replaced (for 
> the hell of it) 3 years ago needed to be switched again.  So I did... one 
> at a time to see if I could fault-locate the culprit that way.  No dice! 
> I'm running out of hardware to replace!  I've even tried setting that 
> 10-to-1 Chip to different settings, but the same nasty behavior persists--  
> the engine's as well as my own!
>
> WHO CAN TELL ME WHAT MY PROBLEM(S) IS?  Be nice, now....
>
> Dennis O.
>
>
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