[Syty] Broke & Stumped!

[Jabba Truck]

Try looking for a vacuum leak.  The truck could be sucking air from
unapproved places, and the 'puter can't correct it.  Colder air = more extra
O2.

On 1/3/06, DOlivares <seravilo at netzero.net> wrote:
>
> Yea,
>
>     That's exactly what I was thinking early on in my diagnostic
> process... which is why they CTS was the very first thing I replaced and
> checked for 5V at the connector.  That or the next-day replacement of the
> MAT (a.k.a. IAT) should've solved the temp-triggered problem, BUT NO DICE
> IN EITHER CASE!
>
>     The other likely cause could be due to my inadvertent replacing one
> bad sensor(s) with another one right out of the box-- it's possible but
> unlikely.  Moreover, if I had bad wiring or bad sensors the ECM would throw
> an appropriate sensor/wire-fault code (e.g., 14, 23, 25 or *something*else) instead of that stupid "44."  Unless the Spark Module or ECM 10-in-1
> is miraculously acting as its own temp-sensor input (and from that snide
> remark you might be able to guess what my feelings about *that*possibility are), I pretty much remain STUMPED.
>
>     In the past couple of daze (not days!), it's been in the
> low/middle-80s here in the Alamo City, and when I went to cold-start the
> 'Clone both times with ambient air above 70 the engine fires right up with
> none of that hunt-and-swing baloney.  Same thing this morning on my way to
> my first-ever ROOT-CANAL procedure:  Air temp was just at 60 and the motor
> fired right up, idled "high" as in proper choke-mode, and I took off smooth
> as silk; however, it did go into that balk-and-cut-out routine about a block
> away from my driveway.  It also went away faster than normal and the rest of
> my merry ride to the oral butcher went without incident.
>
>     So, if I can just get it to stay above 70 every time I wanna go
> driving I'm free from worries!  I can't believe I'm the only one with this
> syndrome...!
>
> D.O.
> ------------------------------
>  ----- Original Message ----- *From:* Rick In Central Texas<tydriver at hotmail.com>
> *To:* seravilo at netzero.net ; syty at syty.org
> *Sent:* Tuesday, January 03, 2006 12:49 PM
> *Subject:* RE: [Syty] Broke & Stumped!
>
> One possibility... your coolant temp sensor or wiring is faulty, and your
> engine *thinks* it's hot when it's not.  This would give a lean
> condition.
> HTH
>
> Rick
>
>
> From: "DOlivares" <seravilo at netzero.net>
> Reply-To: DOlivares <seravilo at netzero.net>
> To: <syty at syty.org>
> Subject: [Syty] Broke & Stumped!
> Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2006 19:36:17 -0600
>
> Who watches The Watcher?
>
> Who advises The Guru?
>
> Who assists The Good Samaritan?
>
> I think we're about to find out pretty soon-- at least until I can get my
> Lapdog running again (and one of the diagnostic programs to troubleshoot
> my
> li'l pony):
>
> Meanwhile, I NEED HELP!  With my laptop in pieces all over the bench, I
> can't run DIACOM or DATALINK to give me clues about the usual suspects:
>
> Clean-livin' doesn't always pay off if my holidaze so far are any
> indication.  I spent Christmas Eve on a carlift taking apart my
> right-front
> axle-- again!-- after being assured by our local "Gear-Guru" (who fully
> rebuilt that differential less than 6 months before I started hearing that
>
> same CLUNKING on left turns again) that all I needed was a new cir-clip
> (GM
> #14041989) to keep the axle from popping-out of the side-gear in the
> differential.  HAH!  More bad advice and I ended up taking a cab home....
>
> More about that Horror Show in a later mailing.
>
> Meanwhile, we got our first technical freeze down here in what was
> becoming
> tropical San Antone on Nov. 17th and our first hard-freeze, appropriately,
>
> on Dec. 7th, and somewhere in between those times ol' Syclone #773 began
> throwing fits during start-up and for the first 5 or 6 minutes until the
> water jacket hits and stays at 180° or so.  I'm stumped for the first time
>
> in a decade or more!  Here's what happens:
>
> Since the new Walbro fuel-pump went in a few months ago, cranking times
> are
> way down... engine catches pretty quick, but now it won't stay lit and
> "choke" with the new IAC, which went in along with a new TPS and
> remote-adjustable FPR about a month before the new Walbro.  Now, I have to
>
> feather the pedal once the ignition gets going and hold the throttle open
> a
> bit while the IAC hunts for about a dozen cycles making the tach swing
> about
> 1200 rpm back and forth until we hit the "sweet spot" and the engine takes
>
> off smoothly and the IAC-hunting stops, at least for a while.  Now, it's
> safe to put her in gear and drive away as long as I keep a little positive
>
> bias in the pedal for the next few minutes every time I have to slow down
> to
> an idle or coast speed.
>
> THIS PROBLEM IS WICKEDLY WORSE ON COLD DAYS, where ambient air is in the
> 40s
> or below, which thankfully is rare.  (Ain't this global-warming great!)
> However, on a couple of occasions when I did have to drive in the 30s--
> and
> even after reaching full-warm-up temperature-- the engine starts cutting
> out
> seriously as the SES light comes on!  Now, we're talking some MAJOR
> pumping
> of the pedal to keep things lit and if I can get on a clear piece of road
> and cruise a spell at 35 mph or better the problem goes away completely,
> until I shutdown and the engine gets cold again.  I barely even recognize
> that SES light... hardly ever see it.  Driving on warmer days never sees a
>
> recurrence of that mid-period cutting-out, and idle is smooth as is the
> rest
> of drivability.  Warm start-ups see a few moments of that IAC-hunting, but
>
> the rpm-sweeps are only on the order of 500rpm and the whole anomaly goes
> away in about 30 seconds.  I've NEVER encountered anything like this in my
>
> many years of wrenching!  Now, it's time for some wretching!!  All that
> ever
> gets logged in the way of a trouble-code is 44... not too helpful!
>
> Naturally, I replaced the O2 sensor-- no improvement at all!  Everything
> described above instinctually told me this was a weird thermal transient
> in
> the injector-drive circuits or else the MAT, CTS or MAP I replaced (for
> the
> hell of it) 3 years ago needed to be switched again.  So I did... one at a
>
> time to see if I could fault-locate the culprit that way.  No dice!  I'm
> running out of hardware to replace!  I've even tried setting that 10-to-1
> Chip to different settings, but the same nasty behavior persists-- the
> engine's as well as my own!
>
> WHO CAN TELL ME WHAT MY PROBLEM(S) IS?  Be nice, now....
>
> Dennis O.
>
>
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