[Syty] Broke & Stumped!

[DOlivares]

Vacuum leaks was the SECOND thing I tested for.

Nope, tight as a drum... and a vacuum leak would KEEP giving trouble, not just at warm-up.

Nice try anyway... keep thinkin',

D.O.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

----- Original Message ----- 
From: Jabba Truck 
To: DOlivares 
Cc: Rick In Central Texas ; syty at syty.org 
Sent: Tuesday, January 03, 2006 9:33 PM
Subject: Re: [Syty] Broke & Stumped!


Try looking for a vacuum leak.  The truck could be sucking air from unapproved places, and the 'puter can't correct it.  Colder air = more extra O2.


On 1/3/06, DOlivares <seravilo at netzero.net> wrote:
  Yea,

      That's exactly what I was thinking early on in my diagnostic process... which is why they CTS was the very first thing I replaced and checked for 5V at the connector.  That or the next-day replacement of the MAT (a.k.a. IAT) should've solved the temp-triggered problem, BUT NO DICE IN EITHER CASE!  

      The other likely cause could be due to my inadvertent replacing one bad sensor(s) with another one right out of the box-- it's possible but unlikely.  Moreover, if I had bad wiring or bad sensors the ECM would throw an appropriate sensor/wire-fault code (e.g., 14, 23, 25 or something else) instead of that stupid "44."  Unless the Spark Module or ECM 10-in-1 is miraculously acting as its own temp-sensor input (and from that snide remark you might be able to guess what my feelings about that possibility are), I pretty much remain STUMPED.

      In the past couple of daze (not days!), it's been in the low/middle-80s here in the Alamo City, and when I went to cold-start the 'Clone both times with ambient air above 70 the engine fires right up with none of that hunt-and-swing baloney.  Same thing this morning on my way to my first-ever ROOT-CANAL procedure:  Air temp was just at 60 and the motor fired right up, idled "high" as in proper choke-mode, and I took off smooth as silk; however, it did go into that balk-and-cut-out routine about a block away from my driveway.  It also went away faster than normal and the rest of my merry ride to the oral butcher went without incident.

      So, if I can just get it to stay above 70 every time I wanna go driving I'm free from worries!  I can't believe I'm the only one with this syndrome...!

  D.O. 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Rick In Central Texas 
  To: seravilo at netzero.net ; syty at syty.org 
  Sent: Tuesday, January 03, 2006 12:49 PM
  Subject: RE: [Syty] Broke & Stumped!


  One possibility... your coolant temp sensor or wiring is faulty, and your 
  engine *thinks* it's hot when it's not.  This would give a lean condition.  
  HTH

  Rick


  From: "DOlivares" <seravilo at netzero.net>
  Reply-To: DOlivares <seravilo at netzero.net>
  To: < syty at syty.org>
  Subject: [Syty] Broke & Stumped!
  Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2006 19:36:17 -0600

  Who watches The Watcher?

  Who advises The Guru?

  Who assists The Good Samaritan?

  I think we're about to find out pretty soon-- at least until I can get my 
  Lapdog running again (and one of the diagnostic programs to troubleshoot my 
  li'l pony):

  Meanwhile, I NEED HELP!  With my laptop in pieces all over the bench, I 
  can't run DIACOM or DATALINK to give me clues about the usual suspects:

  Clean-livin' doesn't always pay off if my holidaze so far are any 
  indication.  I spent Christmas Eve on a carlift taking apart my right-front 
  axle-- again!-- after being assured by our local "Gear-Guru" (who fully 
  rebuilt that differential less than 6 months before I started hearing that 
  same CLUNKING on left turns again) that all I needed was a new cir-clip (GM 
  #14041989) to keep the axle from popping-out of the side-gear in the 
  differential.  HAH!  More bad advice and I ended up taking a cab home....  
  More about that Horror Show in a later mailing.

  Meanwhile, we got our first technical freeze down here in what was becoming 
  tropical San Antone on Nov. 17th and our first hard-freeze, appropriately, 
  on Dec. 7th, and somewhere in between those times ol' Syclone #773 began 
  throwing fits during start-up and for the first 5 or 6 minutes until the 
  water jacket hits and stays at 180° or so.  I'm stumped for the first time 
  in a decade or more!  Here's what happens:

  Since the new Walbro fuel-pump went in a few months ago, cranking times are 
  way down... engine catches pretty quick, but now it won't stay lit and 
  "choke" with the new IAC, which went in along with a new TPS and 
  remote-adjustable FPR about a month before the new Walbro.  Now, I have to 
  feather the pedal once the ignition gets going and hold the throttle open a 
  bit while the IAC hunts for about a dozen cycles making the tach swing about 
  1200 rpm back and forth until we hit the "sweet spot" and the engine takes 
  off smoothly and the IAC-hunting stops, at least for a while.  Now, it's 
  safe to put her in gear and drive away as long as I keep a little positive 
  bias in the pedal for the next few minutes every time I have to slow down to 
  an idle or coast speed.

  THIS PROBLEM IS WICKEDLY WORSE ON COLD DAYS, where ambient air is in the 40s 
  or below, which thankfully is rare.  (Ain't this global-warming great!)  
  However, on a couple of occasions when I did have to drive in the 30s-- and 
  even after reaching full-warm-up temperature-- the engine starts cutting out 
  seriously as the SES light comes on!  Now, we're talking some MAJOR pumping 
  of the pedal to keep things lit and if I can get on a clear piece of road 
  and cruise a spell at 35 mph or better the problem goes away completely, 
  until I shutdown and the engine gets cold again.  I barely even recognize 
  that SES light... hardly ever see it.  Driving on warmer days never sees a 
  recurrence of that mid-period cutting-out, and idle is smooth as is the rest 
  of drivability.  Warm start-ups see a few moments of that IAC-hunting, but 
  the rpm-sweeps are only on the order of 500rpm and the whole anomaly goes 
  away in about 30 seconds.  I've NEVER encountered anything like this in my 
  many years of wrenching!  Now, it's time for some wretching!!  All that ever 
  gets logged in the way of a trouble-code is 44... not too helpful!

  Naturally, I replaced the O2 sensor-- no improvement at all!  Everything 
  described above instinctually told me this was a weird thermal transient in 
  the injector-drive circuits or else the MAT, CTS or MAP I replaced (for the 
  hell of it) 3 years ago needed to be switched again.  So I did... one at a 
  time to see if I could fault-locate the culprit that way.  No dice!  I'm 
  running out of hardware to replace!  I've even tried setting that 10-to-1 
  Chip to different settings, but the same nasty behavior persists-- the 
  engine's as well as my own!

  WHO CAN TELL ME WHAT MY PROBLEM(S) IS?  Be nice, now....

  Dennis O.


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