[Syty] Broke & Stumped!
Lewis Straughn
lewisstraughn at netscape.com
Wed Jan 4 11:14:27 CST 2006
Dennis,
I had the same problem with the screws in the distributor cap and that
will cause the problem you are having. I know it is hard to get to that
screw, but what I had to do was just get one screw started a couple of
turns and then get the other one going and then be sure I had the cap
pushed down to the bottom and seated in position and then tighten each
screw a little at the time until I had them both tight. I don't know why
it is so hard to get the cap in position, but it is and when you get it
you will know it. I had to walk away a couple of times because it was a
job for Houdini.
Hope that helps,
Lewis Straughn
DOlivares wrote:
> Yep, had /all/ those bases covered before admitting to being STUMPED!
>
> FPR is brand-new; Conrad Cap and Rotor are brand-new, although /only
> one bolt can be secured/ to the Distributor-- bizarre manufacturing
> flaw... anyone else ever see this? I just bought another one
> yesterday, but that /won't/ fix this problem....
>
> I've taken enough engines through hot pressure-washes to recognize and
> know how to defeat water in the Distributor as well: a screwdriver
> and a spray-can of ether!
>
> Keep trying,
>
> D.O.
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Ted Metzing <mailto:theodore.metzing at verizon.net>
> *To:* DOlivares <mailto:seravilo at netzero.net>
> *Sent:* Monday, January 02, 2006 9:54 PM
> *Subject:* Re: [Syty] Broke & Stumped!
>
> Hey Dennis, I'm not all that great at diagnosing problems but when you
> said that you replaced the fuel pump to the Walbro, did you re-adjust
> the FPR? Maybe too much gas for a cold engine to burn off until warm?
> Or what about a crack in the distributor cap, letting moisture build
> up inside it from the previously warm motor (when off) then when cold
> the moisture is preventing the spark from arcing? Had a problem like
> that on my Harley with the coil-pack, wouldn't start until all
> moisture evaporated (warm day or a hot motor). These are just guesses,
> again not qualified as a problem solver. Good luck.
>
> Ted Metzing
> 93 TY #0190
> 06 Trailblazer SS
>
>
> DOlivares wrote:
>
>> Thanks... so far, and happy New Year... /et pax hominibus boni
>> voluntatis!/
>> [You know who you are.]
>>
>> Unfortunately, I have /tried/ all those diagnostic trees-- even a
>> couple of bushes for good measure! This episode has been going on
>> for nearly a month. As I said, I'm running out of hardware to
>> swap-out. The only things I haven't diddled with is the *EST Module*
>> in the Distributor and of course the *ECM/chip*.
>>
>> The reason I haven't fooled with those things is that the misbehavior
>> complained of is SO PREDICTABLE and only afflicts COLD-START-UP
>> conditions, except when it's really cold outside in which case I will
>> get precisely ONE chug-a-lug spasm about 5 minutes into the run-up to
>> full operating temperature... just after everything had been going
>> just fine. That's the worst of it... as far as I can tell without a
>> scantool... seat-of-the-pants power and smoothness is better than
>> ever, otherwise. This is no "intermittent." This is pure
>> predictability! And my experience with bad chips and modules is that
>> they either fail outright or exhibit sporadic, random upsets...
>> before failing outright. That's not what's occurring. Even so, I
>> might drop in my spare EST (Holley Annihilator) just for laughs....
>>
>> Keep thinking... what /else/ could it be??? What's the connection to
>> cold/cool ambient temperature?
>>
>> D.O.
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> *From:* Jim Sloan <mailto:leroy at sunflower.com>
>> *To:* 'DOlivares' <mailto:seravilo at netzero.net> ; syty at syty.org
>> <mailto:syty at syty.org>
>> *Sent:* Monday, January 02, 2006 8:11 AM
>> *Subject:* RE: [Syty] Broke & Stumped!
>>
>> Happy New Year Dennis!
>>
>> I've had hardware problems with several of the 10-1 adapters. You
>> could swap back to the stock memcal (and map sensor) to rule that
>> out, if your build isn't too radical.
>>
>> I usually keep at least one spare ecm for a substitution test, and
>> have seen quite a few fail in weird ways. Let me know if you need one.
>>
>> Sometimes it helps to go back to the basics, and follow the
>> diagnostics in the service manual http://syty.org/old/d&e-code44.html
>> <http://syty.org/old/d&e-code44.html> .
>>
>> Just a few ideas, if you haven't already tried them.
>>
>> Jim
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> *From:* syty-bounces at syty.org [mailto:syty-bounces at syty.org] *On
>> Behalf Of *DOlivares
>> *Sent:* Sunday, January 01, 2006 7:36 PM
>> *To:* syty at syty.org
>> *Subject:* [Syty] Broke & Stumped!
>> *Importance:* High
>>
>> Who watches The Watcher?
>>
>> Who advises The Guru?
>>
>> Who assists The Good Samaritan?
>>
>> I think we're about to find out pretty soon-- at least until I
>> can get my Lapdog running again (and one of the diagnostic
>> programs to troubleshoot my li'l pony):
>>
>> Meanwhile, I NEED HELP! With my laptop in pieces all over the
>> bench, I can't run DIACOM or DATALINK to give me clues about the
>> usual suspects:
>>
>> Clean-livin' doesn't always pay off if my holidaze so far are any
>> indication. I spent Christmas Eve on a carlift taking apart my
>> right-front axle-- again!-- after being assured by our local
>> "Gear-Guru" (who fully rebuilt that differential less than 6
>> months before I started hearing that same CLUNKING on left turns
>> again) that all I needed was a new cir-clip (GM #14041989) to
>> keep the axle from popping-out of the side-gear in the
>> differential. HAH! More bad advice and I ended up taking a cab
>> home.... More about that Horror Show in a later mailing.
>>
>> Meanwhile, we got our first technical freeze down here in what
>> was becoming /tropical/ San Antone on Nov. 17th and our first
>> hard-freeze, appropriately, on Dec. 7th, and somewhere in between
>> those times ol' Syclone #773 began *throwing fits during start-up
>> and for the first 5 or 6 minutes until the water jacket hits and
>> stays at 180°* or so. I'm stumped for the first time in a decade
>> or more! Here's what happens:
>>
>> Since the /new/ Walbro fuel-pump went in a few months ago,
>> cranking times are way down... engine catches pretty quick, but
>> now it won't stay lit and "choke" with the /new/ IAC, which went
>> in along with a /new/ TPS and remote-adjustable FPR about a month
>> before the new Walbro. Now, I have to feather the pedal once the
>> ignition gets going and hold the throttle open a bit while the
>> IAC hunts for about a dozen cycles making the tach swing about
>> 1200 rpm back and forth until we hit the "sweet spot" and the
>> engine takes off smoothly and the IAC-hunting stops, at least for
>> a while. Now, it's safe to put her in gear and drive away as
>> long as I keep a little positive bias in the pedal for the next
>> few minutes every time I have to slow down to an idle or coast
>> speed.
>>
>> THIS PROBLEM IS WICKEDLY WORSE ON COLD DAYS, where ambient air is
>> in the 40s or below, which thankfully is rare. (Ain't this
>> global-warming great!) However, on a couple of occasions when I
>> did have to drive in the 30s-- and even /after/ reaching
>> full-warm-up temperature-- the engine starts cutting out
>> seriously as the SES light comes on! Now, we're talking some
>> MAJOR pumping of the pedal to keep things lit and if I can get on
>> a clear piece of road and cruise a spell at 35 mph or better the
>> problem goes away /completely/, until I shutdown and the engine
>> gets cold again. I barely even recognize that SES light...
>> hardly ever see it. Driving on warmer days never sees a
>> recurrence of that mid-period cutting-out, and idle is smooth as
>> is the rest of drivability. Warm start-ups see a few moments of
>> that IAC-hunting, but the rpm-sweeps are only on the order of
>> 500rpm and the whole anomaly goes away in about 30 seconds. I've
>> NEVER encountered anything like this in my many years of
>> wrenching! Now, it's time for some wretching!! All that ever
>> gets logged in the way of a trouble-code is *44*... not too helpful!
>>
>> Naturally, I replaced the O2 sensor-- no improvement at all!
>> Everything described above instinctually told me this was a weird
>> thermal transient in the injector-drive circuits or else the MAT,
>> CTS or MAP I replaced (for the hell of it) 3 years ago needed to
>> be switched again. So I /did/... one at a time to see if I could
>> fault-locate the culprit that way. No dice! I'm running out of
>> hardware to replace! I've even tried setting that 10-to-1 Chip
>> to different settings, but the same nasty behavior persists-- the
>> engine's as well as my own!
>>
>> *WHO CAN TELL ME WHAT MY PROBLEM(S) IS?* Be nice, now....
>>
>> Dennis O.
>>
>>
>>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>_______________________________________________
>>Syty mailing list
>>Syty at syty.org
>>http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty
>>
>>
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>_______________________________________________
>Syty mailing list
>Syty at syty.org
>http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty
>
>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20060104/71727d05/attachment.html
More information about the Syty
mailing list