From GMCTy at aol.com Tue Oct 10 10:40:46 2006 From: GMCTy at aol.com (GMCTy at aol.com) Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2006 11:40:46 EDT Subject: [Syty] exhaust Message-ID: Have a 93 Typhoon. Need a exhaust. Both muffler and tailpipe. Prefer stock. Any help would appreciate it. I'm near Chicago. Thanks in advance. Howie -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061010/71d765cb/attachment.html From Mr2879sy at aol.com Tue Oct 10 12:05:51 2006 From: Mr2879sy at aol.com (Mr2879sy at aol.com) Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2006 13:05:51 EDT Subject: [Syty] exhaust Message-ID: In a message dated 10/10/2006 10:43:14 AM Central Daylight Time, GMCTy at aol.com writes: > Have a 93 Typhoon. Need a exhaust. Both muffler and tailpipe. Prefer stock. > Any help would appreciate it. > I'm near Chicago. > > Thanks in advance. > > Howie > your only option it to get one from Mike Lee @ Race Proven Motors. I copied him on this e-mail marty-mj - www.syborgtwinturbo.com www.syborgtwinturbo.com/gallery -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061010/b12826ac/attachment.html From PatMerri at aol.com Tue Oct 10 13:04:59 2006 From: PatMerri at aol.com (PatMerri at aol.com) Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2006 14:04:59 EDT Subject: [Syty] Wheels Message-ID: While in a local GMC dealer this morning I found a full set of what looks like new syty wheels mounted with almost new studded snow tires. Anyone with any interest I'd be glad to pursue this. Located in Sandpoint ID. They don't know where the center caps are. Pat SY 1508 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061010/5a397540/attachment.html From turbodig at yahoo.com Tue Oct 10 13:28:52 2006 From: turbodig at yahoo.com (Dig) Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2006 11:28:52 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 1 Message-ID: <20061010182852.34285.qmail@web35310.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Didja try CLR? The scrub/rinse cycle with Muriatic has worked for me in the past. You don't want to leave it there long, though. Dig --- From: syty-bounces at syty.org [mailto:syty-bounces at syty.org] On Behalf Of Larry Brown Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 1:07 PM To: SyTy List Subject: [Syty] Anyone remove concrete rust? Anyone: ...I`m told there is nothing that removes concrete rust. Unfortunately my driveway has poka-dots and household cleaners do nothing or worse make white bleach stains (and leave the original rust). Even tried a drill pad to work in different solutions, with no help. thought I`d ask Larry From jsmirz at comcast.net Tue Oct 10 16:53:34 2006 From: jsmirz at comcast.net (Jeffrey Smirz) Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2006 17:53:34 -0400 Subject: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 1 In-Reply-To: <20061010182852.34285.qmail@web35310.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <20061010182852.34285.qmail@web35310.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <666FAC92-E97B-4723-B49D-BFF4FE56692E@comcast.net> I recommended Iron Out to him. It'll take the rust out and not harm the concrete. Jeff On Oct 10, 2006, at 2:28 PM, Dig wrote: > Didja try CLR? > > The scrub/rinse cycle with Muriatic has worked for me in the past. > You don't want to leave it there long, though. > > Dig > > --- > From: syty-bounces at syty.org [mailto:syty-bounces at syty.org] On > Behalf Of Larry Brown > Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 1:07 PM > To: SyTy List > Subject: [Syty] Anyone remove concrete rust? > > > Anyone: > > ...I`m told there is nothing that removes concrete rust. > > Unfortunately my driveway has poka-dots and household cleaners > do nothing > > or worse make white bleach stains (and leave the original rust). > > Even tried a drill pad to work in different solutions, with no > help. > > > thought I`d ask > > Larry > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Syty mailing list > Syty at syty.org > http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061010/77f69c2d/attachment.html From larrybrown at prolynx.com Tue Oct 10 19:19:25 2006 From: larrybrown at prolynx.com (Larry Brown) Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2006 18:19:25 -0600 Subject: [Syty] Driveway Rust Cleaner "Results"... References: <20061010182852.34285.qmail@web35310.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <666FAC92-E97B-4723-B49D-BFF4FE56692E@comcast.net> Message-ID: <002e01c6ecca$ea22dca0$0200a8c0@larryPC> Okay Thanks to all who responded to my original driveway cleaner inquiry on rust removal... And the winner is.....IRON OUT..... I bought almost every product that the group recommended. Tried using each with a brush, steelwool, brillow pad, broom and drill with foam pad. With Iron Out, I found that by mildly diluting, and using a broom, the stains were removed and only a minimum amount of white reside remained after rinsing. Since Im on a corner lot, and the sidewalks, driveway, and steps all were spotted, it took 3 bottles of Iron Out to do the job. And strangely, Home Depot didnt have it but Lowes did. In fact, none of the clerks at either store had any idea of what to use. I did not want to kill the wife`s flowers (or poison the neighbors dogs/cats) or ruin the lawn so I used rather sparingly. And while I`ve seen people discarding crap via curbside gutters, I tend to be rather prudent (thinking the downhill neighbors would not appreciate toxic waste in their surrounding). So it took awhile to test and report back. Thanks to all who responded. Larry Brown ----- Original Message ----- From: Jeffrey Smirz To: Dig Cc: syty at syty.org Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 3:53 PM Subject: Re: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 1 I recommended Iron Out to him. It'll take the rust out and not harm the concrete. Jeff On Oct 10, 2006, at 2:28 PM, Dig wrote: Didja try CLR? The scrub/rinse cycle with Muriatic has worked for me in the past. You don't want to leave it there long, though. Dig --- From: syty-bounces at syty.org [mailto:syty-bounces at syty.org] On Behalf Of Larry Brown Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 1:07 PM To: SyTy List Subject: [Syty] Anyone remove concrete rust? Anyone: ...I`m told there is nothing that removes concrete rust. Unfortunately my driveway has poka-dots and household cleaners do nothing or worse make white bleach stains (and leave the original rust). Even tried a drill pad to work in different solutions, with no help. thought I`d ask Larry _______________________________________________ Syty mailing list Syty at syty.org http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ Syty mailing list Syty at syty.org http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061010/ed09da49/attachment.html From larrybrown at prolynx.com Wed Oct 11 16:51:12 2006 From: larrybrown at prolynx.com (Larry Brown) Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2006 15:51:12 -0600 Subject: [Syty] Driveway Rust Cleaner "Results"... References: <20061010182852.34285.qmail@web35310.mail.mud.yahoo.com><666FAC92-E97B-4723-B49D-BFF4FE56692E@comcast.net> <002e01c6ecca$ea22dca0$0200a8c0@larryPC> <002301c6ed75$6a3e9280$16f46942@coresys1> Message-ID: <001301c6ed7f$5ffe03f0$0200a8c0@larryPC> fwiw Actually I tried Muriatic Acid (some of the bottles called it etching fluid) in various strengths without any success. I left one spot sit for about 10 minutes, used my drill and foam pad, and after rinsing got a "dimmed spot" and a white stain circle where no stain existed. I figure it would have taken me all summer to clean the driveway, stairs, and sidewalk leaving a poka-dotted landscape...ie not too cool. I also worried about killing plants/things around me. Had to "chase" a neighbors pet dog away who kept wanting to drink the stuff (as it was a hot day, around noon). Whats amazing, is that I dressed up in rubber gloves, eye goggles, and rubber boots thinking ( & looking like goober) that the stuff was gonna melt the cement. It didnt. I did have 1/2 dozen cars passing by stop to ask me if the stuff was working and showing interest. Turns out, after using the Iron Out, I also had neighbors asking me to do their surrounding areas....but I declined. Maybe there`s a profession out there for me after all. I dont know if the help at hardware stores are lame (home depot, ace hardware, and lowes) or lazy. But only lowes carried the Iron Out and it was hidden on a back shelf behind some dodads. Fortunately the sticker price was still on it so I didnt have to have a hour long price check on aisle 5. As I remember, the stuff is kinda expensive (about $10.00 for something that looks like a quart). Im now watching where I apply fertilizer, as it definitely (as with radiator fluid) stain the cement something awful. -Larry ----- Original Message ----- From: DOlivares To: Larry Brown Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2006 2:39 PM Subject: Re: [Syty] Driveway Rust Cleaner "Results"... Did you ever try NITRIC ACID? I never could get any reaction for this superior technique. D.O. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ ----- Original Message ----- From: Larry Brown To: syty at syty.org Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 7:19 PM Subject: [Syty] Driveway Rust Cleaner "Results"... Okay Thanks to all who responded to my original driveway cleaner inquiry on rust removal... And the winner is.....IRON OUT..... I bought almost every product that the group recommended. Tried using each with a brush, steelwool, brillow pad, broom and drill with foam pad. With Iron Out, I found that by mildly diluting, and using a broom, the stains were removed and only a minimum amount of white reside remained after rinsing. Since Im on a corner lot, and the sidewalks, driveway, and steps all were spotted, it took 3 bottles of Iron Out to do the job. And strangely, Home Depot didnt have it but Lowes did. In fact, none of the clerks at either store had any idea of what to use. I did not want to kill the wife`s flowers (or poison the neighbors dogs/cats) or ruin the lawn so I used rather sparingly. And while I`ve seen people discarding crap via curbside gutters, I tend to be rather prudent (thinking the downhill neighbors would not appreciate toxic waste in their surrounding). So it took awhile to test and report back. Thanks to all who responded. Larry Brown ----- Original Message ----- From: Jeffrey Smirz To: Dig Cc: syty at syty.org Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 3:53 PM Subject: Re: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 1 I recommended Iron Out to him. It'll take the rust out and not harm the concrete. Jeff On Oct 10, 2006, at 2:28 PM, Dig wrote: Didja try CLR? The scrub/rinse cycle with Muriatic has worked for me in the past. You don't want to leave it there long, though. Dig --- From: syty-bounces at syty.org [mailto:syty-bounces at syty.org] On Behalf Of Larry Brown Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 1:07 PM To: SyTy List Subject: [Syty] Anyone remove concrete rust? Anyone: ...I`m told there is nothing that removes concrete rust. Unfortunately my driveway has poka-dots and household cleaners do nothing or worse make white bleach stains (and leave the original rust). Even tried a drill pad to work in different solutions, with no help. thought I`d ask Larry _______________________________________________ Syty mailing list Syty at syty.org http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Syty mailing list Syty at syty.org http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ Syty mailing list Syty at syty.org http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061011/04d6ed41/attachment.html From rosekendeb at hotmail.com Wed Oct 11 18:43:29 2006 From: rosekendeb at hotmail.com (ken rose jr) Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2006 18:43:29 -0500 Subject: [Syty] rust Message-ID: Has anyone tried Wink.. Its a liquid rust remover. I use it to get the rust out of my toilet and it works better than iron out and other brands that I tried! I just squirt it on the rust stains and they vanish before your eyes like magic. The stuff is hard to find..kmart used to have it but i have not looked there lately.. Comes in a small bottle and costs around $4.00. Last time I bought it at the hardware store..Ace hardware I believe. Never tried it on concrete but I plan to cause my plow left some rust on my driveway. Hope this helps!!! -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061011/acbe2758/attachment.html From jsmirz at comcast.net Thu Oct 12 07:26:17 2006 From: jsmirz at comcast.net (Jeffrey Smirz) Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2006 08:26:17 -0400 Subject: [Syty] rust In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: It's actually Whink, which is a dilute solution of hydrofluoric acid. It should perform about the same as Larry Brown's muriatic acid and Dennis Olivares' nitric acid. All 3 of these are chemically considered 'strong' acids, which is why they etch concrete as well as 'remove' rust quicker. 'Weak' acids, such as acetic (vinegar) and carbonic (generated from baking soda) will also work, but will take a lot longer and may not remove some forms of rust. ("Rust" is a common term for various iron oxides.) Iron Out is sodium hydrosulfite, which generates a "middle" strength acid when dissolved in water. All these acids 'remove' rust by converting it to water soluble salts. For example, the muriatic acid converts iron oxides (red- brown and insoluble) to iron chloride (colorless and soluble). If I was as good a mechanic as I am a chemist, my Typhoon would be running now! I'm still fussing with that fuel pump problem I mentioned on the list way back in April! Jeff On Oct 11, 2006, at 7:43 PM, ken rose jr wrote: > Has anyone tried Wink.. Its a liquid rust remover. I use it to get > the rust out of my toilet and it works better than iron out and > other brands that I tried! I just squirt it on the rust stains and > they vanish before your eyes like magic. The stuff is hard to > find..kmart used to have it but i have not looked there lately.. > Comes in a small bottle and costs around $4.00. Last time I bought > it at the hardware store..Ace hardware I believe. Never tried it on > concrete but I plan to cause my plow left some rust on my driveway. > Hope this helps!!! > _______________________________________________ > Syty mailing list > Syty at syty.org > http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061012/e12eb8ea/attachment.html From seravilo at netzero.net Mon Oct 23 08:36:24 2006 From: seravilo at netzero.net (DOlivares) Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 08:36:24 -0500 Subject: [Syty] Fuel Pump References: <003501c662e2$4ec06380$07f46942@coresys1> <5C0264B5-ECE6-454E-A4C9-3C5A32E1A87A@comcast.net> <002b01c66344$7a0ff570$18f46942@coresys1> <1B0F8AE0-9797-4FF0-AF64-DA24C54245A2@comcast.net> Message-ID: <001401c6f6a8$9e8283d0$63f85a42@coresys1> Damn! Did I really write all of that? ...seems like years ago instead of mere months! I'm not sure I could match such a prolific output today, especially since almost no one listens to me-- especially about NITRIC ACID!!! Retired Mr. Wizard -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- Original Message ----- From: Jeffrey Smirz To: DOlivares Sent: Monday, October 23, 2006 7:38 AM Subject: Re: [Syty] Fuel Pump I'll probably mount the old pump on a plaque as a trophy to my new-found expertise. Jeff On Apr 18, 2006, at 8:01 PM, DOlivares wrote: OEM IS a Bosch. Supposedly, legend has it, the Typhoon and TTA pumps were the best of the breed, but I can tell you from personal experience that my TTA pump was constantly starving out, even from the first day I drove it new in 1989. All the eventual versions of adjustable-FPR never helped me on the top end. As for the Typhoon stock pump... I haven't driven it enough to give an impression.... Since you're gonna rewire that harness-- a bit of a romantic exercise in ultimate futility (like cc-ing your heads) unless you're installing a true high-amp pump(s) in a first-gen Grand National, which isn't necessary for street/strip-- you might want to consider the viable alternative of retaining the stock wiring and splicing-in one of those Boost-a-Volt (or whatever they call 'em nowdays) on-demand overdrivers for the FP. I got one from Kennedy-Bell and it RESURRECTED my stock-schlock Bosch TTA FP. Too bad I never got to drive it much before I tore the engine down again.... I'm tempted to install one (basically, a 13-to-18-volt DC-DC Converter which is enabled by a boost-switch) on my 'Clone but with that fat Walbro 255 in there now-- which never chokes or starves-- I'm not sure it will do much good for the cam and injectors I'm currently running. Your plans might be different.... Think about it, D.O. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ ----- Original Message ----- From: Jeffrey Smirz To: DOlivares Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2006 8:11 AM Subject: Re: [Syty] Fuel Pump Thanx Dennis. I had originally thought the FPR to be the culprit, but confirmed the pump problem using the technique you (and the GM manual) describe. You seem to be suggesting that the OEM pump is already a Bosch? If so, I'll definitely go Walbro, but based on last year's flurry of messages on the subject, I'll likely spring for the extra bucks and wait-time to get Racetronix' plug-n-play harness as well. Jeff On Apr 18, 2006, at 8:19 AM, DOlivares wrote: Thanx for the advance-vote of confidence, Jeff, But so far my experience with Walbros versus stock-Bosches strongly favors the FORMER. And now that I think about it,everystock-Bosch pump I ever owned has been high on longevity but POOR in providing that nice neck-snapping PRESSURE needed for smooth full-throttle response. Price-wise, they don't compare well either: Putting that Walbro 255 in the tank (sans "pulsator") this past Summer only cost me$69 delivered based on a lucky eBay purchase! That thing will put out over 93psi with my FPR cranked-in all the way-- and before further diaphragm depression from turbo boost! I'll never go back to Bosch!! I recommend you don't either. Be not afraid! That extra pressure/flow will be there when you most need it... and may well save your pistons during a full-throttle blast in peak-summer weather. Check out the offerings on eBay under "Syclone Fuel Pump" for the best deals vis-a-vis regular Internet providers of Walbros.... Although I've yet to publish my unique troubles with my "fancy" FPR-- which went BAD on me at the onset of cold weather here last November-- you might want to VERIFY that it is in fact your FP and not the FPR that is causing your woes. I was struggling to run with only 11psi when I finally broke down and rigged-up my fuel-pressure hose & remote gauge. I was heartbroken. All that grief pulling the tank and the Walbro let me down...? But, the actual culprit was a collapsed FPR diaphragm. As soon as I switched-in the old mechanically adjustable FPR I used on my T-Trans Am (never throw away your "obsolete" performance parts!) we were back in business... never a speck of trouble since then! Check out your start-up/idle pressure (no need to start the engine) by CLAMPING THE FUEL-RETURN LINE with a pair of needle-nosed vise-grips or something equally positive-gripping. If you still get the same low readings IT IS THE PUMP. But, if the pressure goes north of 40psi, you've just saved yourself a lot of money and/or acrobatic labor! Good luck, Dennis O. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- Original Message ----- From: Jeffrey Smirz To: syty at syty.org Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 8:03 PM Subject: [Syty] Fuel Pump The Ty's OEM pump is down to about 25 psi. The poor thing barely runs. I'm pumping and pulling the tank tomorrow. There was a lot of talk about Walbros in Feb. '05, but I'm not planning on racing, except the occasional stoplight Grand Prix. I'm leaning towards a Bosch replacement pump. Advice is welcome.....particularly if it comes from the one and only serovilo, grtyphoon, bullyhart, merk1993 or any of the other great contributors. Jeff Syclone #950 (totaled in '99) Syclone #1654 (formerly Chris Pearson's) Typhoon #1165 Indy, IN ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Syty mailing list Syty at syty.org http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061023/687fe7ab/attachment.html From seravilo at netzero.net Mon Oct 23 14:07:42 2006 From: seravilo at netzero.net (DOlivares) Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 14:07:42 -0500 Subject: [Syty] rust References: Message-ID: <00ce01c6f6d6$85e43e80$63f85a42@coresys1> You guys SLAY me! Any good chemist (I'm merely a physicist/engineer/attorney who got better grades in chemistry) knows that NITRIC acid is "optimized" for etching ferro-metals and copper as hydrofluoric acid is used to etch glass. So-called "strong" acids refers to their relative pH at standardized concentrations... but NOT to their universal reactivity with all substances, especially concrete. If I had any rust-stains on my driveway I'd go out and buy a flask of HNO3 and that Flit or Whisk or Shout or Whatever and PROVE that my solution would be as... if not more... effective and at a lower cost and with a less deleterious impact on the local environment. But who would listen...? Have it your way(s), Dr. D.O. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- Original Message ----- From: Jeffrey Smirz To: ken rose jr Cc: syty at syty.org Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2006 7:26 AM Subject: Re: [Syty] rust It's actually Whink, which is a dilute solution of hydrofluoric acid. It should perform about the same as Larry Brown's muriatic acid and Dennis Olivares' nitric acid. All 3 of these are chemically considered 'strong' acids, which is why they etch concrete as well as 'remove' rust quicker. 'Weak' acids, such as acetic (vinegar) and carbonic (generated from baking soda) will also work, but will take a lot longer and may not remove some forms of rust. ("Rust" is a common term for various iron oxides.) Iron Out is sodium hydrosulfite, which generates a "middle" strength acid when dissolved in water. All these acids 'remove' rust by converting it to water soluble salts. For example, the muriatic acid converts iron oxides (red-brown and insoluble) to iron chloride (colorless and soluble). If I was as good a mechanic as I am a chemist, my Typhoon would be running now! I'm still fussing with that fuel pump problem I mentioned on the list way back in April! Jeff On Oct 11, 2006, at 7:43 PM, ken rose jr wrote: Has anyone tried Wink.. Its a liquid rust remover. I use it to get the rust out of my toilet and it works better than iron out and other brands that I tried! I just squirt it on the rust stains and they vanish before your eyes like magic. The stuff is hard to find..kmart used to have it but i have not looked there lately.. Comes in a small bottle and costs around $4.00. Last time I bought it at the hardware store..Ace hardware I believe. Never tried it on concrete but I plan to cause my plow left some rust on my driveway. Hope this helps!!! _______________________________________________ Syty mailing list Syty at syty.org http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Syty mailing list Syty at syty.org http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061023/a2903f5f/attachment.html From Bullyhart at aol.com Mon Oct 23 15:27:00 2006 From: Bullyhart at aol.com (Bullyhart at aol.com) Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 16:27:00 EDT Subject: [Syty] rust Message-ID: <3f5.da2e3f4.326e7f94@aol.com> WHAT?!?!! And all this time I was under the misconception you had a PhD in Coloproctology... In a message dated 10/23/2006 2:09:48 P.M. Central Standard Time, seravilo at netzero.net writes: You guys SLAY me! Any good chemist (I'm merely a physicist/engineer/attorney who got better grades in chemistry) knows that NITRIC acid is "optimized" for etching ferro-metals and copper as hydrofluoric acid is used to etch glass. So-called "strong" acids refers to their relative pH at standardized concentrations... but NOT to their universal reactivity with all substances, especially concrete. If I had any rust-stains on my driveway I'd go out and buy a flask of HNO3 and that Flit or Whisk or Shout or Whatever and PROVE that my solution would be as... if not more... effective and at a lower cost and with a less deleterious impact on the local environment. But who would listen...? Have it your way(s), Dr. D.O. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061023/965b1a3e/attachment.html From seravilo at netzero.net Mon Oct 23 15:31:57 2006 From: seravilo at netzero.net (DOlivares) Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 15:31:57 -0500 Subject: [Syty] rust References: <3f5.da2e3f4.326e7f94@aol.com> Message-ID: <00ee01c6f6e2$4a9972d0$63f85a42@coresys1> Still at it eh, laughing boy! Better the credential than the OBJECT of said credential, as you appear to be!! Remind me never to give you an exam ...with anything less than a harpoon! Dr. Colopro -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- Original Message ----- From: Bullyhart at aol.com To: seravilo at netzero.net ; jsmirz at comcast.net ; rosekendeb at hotmail.com Cc: syty at syty.org Sent: Monday, October 23, 2006 3:27 PM Subject: Re: [Syty] rust WHAT?!?!! And all this time I was under the misconception you had a PhD in Coloproctology... In a message dated 10/23/2006 2:09:48 P.M. Central Standard Time, seravilo at netzero.net writes: You guys SLAY me! Any good chemist (I'm merely a physicist/engineer/attorney who got better grades in chemistry) knows that NITRIC acid is "optimized" for etching ferro-metals and copper as hydrofluoric acid is used to etch glass. So-called "strong" acids refers to their relative pH at standardized concentrations... but NOT to their universal reactivity with all substances, especially concrete. If I had any rust-stains on my driveway I'd go out and buy a flask of HNO3 and that Flit or Whisk or Shout or Whatever and PROVE that my solution would be as... if not more... effective and at a lower cost and with a less deleterious impact on the local environment. But who would listen...? Have it your way(s), Dr. D.O. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061023/e2cbe884/attachment.html From turbodig at yahoo.com Tue Oct 24 09:47:36 2006 From: turbodig at yahoo.com (Dig) Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 07:47:36 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 Message-ID: <20061024144736.27720.qmail@web35302.mail.mud.yahoo.com> If you're looking for just a good "replacement" pump, the 190 l/hr walbro is a good one: http://www.apeusa.com/ FPG001 Can't beat the price, and the quality exceeds the stockers. Ron's a Sy/Ty "old-timer" too, so he understands the application. Later, Dig turbodig[at]yahoo.com ----- Original Message ----- From: Jeffrey Smirz To: syty at syty.org Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 8:03 PM Subject: [Syty] Fuel Pump The Ty's OEM pump is down to about 25 psi. The poor thing barely runs. I'm pumping and pulling the tank tomorrow. There was a lot of talk about Walbros in Feb. '05, but I'm not planning on racing, except the occasional stoplight Grand Prix. I'm leaning towards a Bosch replacement pump. Advice is welcome.....particularly if it comes from the one and only serovilo, grtyphoon, bullyhart, merk1993 or any of the other great contributors. Jeff Syclone #950 (totaled in '99) Syclone #1654 (formerly Chris Pearson's) Typhoon #1165 Indy, IN ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- From dourtyb at got-boost.net Tue Oct 24 10:06:43 2006 From: dourtyb at got-boost.net (Brian Dourty) Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 10:06:43 -0500 Subject: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 In-Reply-To: <20061024144736.27720.qmail@web35302.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <20061024144736.27720.qmail@web35302.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <453E2C03.20805@got-boost.net> While we are talking about fuel pumps...how hard would it be to fab up a double pumper setup? What would be needed? Stock sending unit. 2 255 l/hr walbro's Some sort of Y adapter to hook both pumps up to stock sending unit? Would it NEED to be billit? Relay to kick second pump on Anyone got a parts list from the old ATR double pumper? Brian Dig wrote: > If you're looking for just a good "replacement" pump, the 190 l/hr walbro is a good one: > > http://www.apeusa.com/ > > FPG001 > > Can't beat the price, and the quality exceeds the stockers. > > Ron's a Sy/Ty "old-timer" too, so he understands the application. > > Later, > > Dig > turbodig[at]yahoo.com > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Jeffrey Smirz > To: syty at syty.org > Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 8:03 PM > Subject: [Syty] Fuel Pump > > > The Ty's OEM pump is down to about 25 psi. The poor thing barely runs. I'm pumping and pulling the tank tomorrow. There was a lot of talk about Walbros in Feb. '05, but I'm not planning on racing, except the occasional stoplight Grand Prix. I'm leaning towards a Bosch replacement pump. Advice is welcome.....particularly if it comes from the one and only serovilo, grtyphoon, bullyhart, merk1993 or any of the other great contributors. > > Jeff > Syclone #950 (totaled in '99) > Syclone #1654 (formerly Chris Pearson's) > Typhoon #1165 > Indy, IN > > > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > _______________________________________________ > Syty mailing list > Syty at syty.org > http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty > From Mr2879sy at aol.com Tue Oct 24 10:14:00 2006 From: Mr2879sy at aol.com (Mr2879sy at aol.com) Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 11:14:00 EDT Subject: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 (Fuel Pump) Message-ID: <3cb.83de80d.326f87b8@aol.com> Oddly enough it wouldn't be that hard - i have this exact set up built and i'm sellnig it cheap marty-mj - www.syborgtwinturbo.com www.syborgtwinturbo.com/gallery In a message dated 10/24/2006 10:07:35 AM Central Daylight Time, dourtyb at got-boost.net writes: > While we are talking about fuel pumps...how hard would it be to fab up a > double pumper setup? What would be needed? > > Stock sending unit. > 2 255 l/hr walbro's > Some sort of Y adapter to hook both pumps up to stock sending unit? > Would it NEED to be billit? > Relay to kick second pump on > > Anyone got a parts list from the old ATR double pumper? > > Brian -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061024/b4580a91/attachment.html From rilawoffice at msn.com Tue Oct 24 10:23:41 2006 From: rilawoffice at msn.com (George Prescott) Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 11:23:41 -0400 Subject: [Syty] RE: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 4 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061024/175ac183/attachment.html From tydriver at turbols6.com Tue Oct 24 10:40:13 2006 From: tydriver at turbols6.com (tydriver@gmail.com) Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 11:40:13 -0400 Subject: [Syty] RE: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 4 References: Message-ID: <001d01c6f782$b32f2ba0$6401a8c0@laptop> Dunno about you George, but I think in DO's case his real title is "BLOWHARD" The rest is a smoke screen.. He's probably the kid that got shoved in a locker in grade school, maybe him and Ed Hess oughta get together.. Have a good day.. Todd ----- Original Message ----- From: George Prescott To: syty at syty.org Cc: rilawoffice at msn.com Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 11:23 AM Subject: [Syty] RE: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 4 Here I am , a physicist/engineer/attorney and car guy. I thought I was all alone. George Prescott ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: syty-request at syty.org Reply-To: syty at syty.org To: syty at syty.org Subject: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 4 Date: 24 Oct 2006 08:08:56 -0700 >Send Syty mailing list submissions to > syty at syty.org > >To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty >or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > syty-request at syty.org > >You can reach the person managing the list at > syty-owner at syty.org > >When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific >than "Re: Contents of Syty digest..." > > >Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: rust (DOlivares) > 2. Re: rust (Bullyhart at aol.com) > 3. Re: rust (DOlivares) > 4. Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 (Dig) > 5. Re: Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 (Brian Dourty) > > >---------------------------------------------------------------------- > >Message: 1 >Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 14:07:42 -0500 >From: "DOlivares" >Subject: Re: [Syty] rust >To: "Jeffrey Smirz" , "ken rose jr" > >Cc: SYTY >Message-ID: <00ce01c6f6d6$85e43e80$63f85a42 at coresys1> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > >You guys SLAY me! > >Any good chemist (I'm merely a physicist/engineer/attorney who got better grades in chemistry) knows that NITRIC acid is "optimized" for etching ferro-metals and copper as hydrofluoric acid is used to etch glass. So-called "strong" acids refers to their relative pH at standardized concentrations... but NOT to their universal reactivity with all substances, especially concrete. > >If I had any rust-stains on my driveway I'd go out and buy a flask of HNO3 and that Flit or Whisk or Shout or Whatever and PROVE that my solution would be as... if not more... effective and at a lower cost and with a less deleterious impact on the local environment. > >But who would listen...? > >Have it your way(s), > >Dr. D.O. >-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > >----- Original Message ----- >From: Jeffrey Smirz >To: ken rose jr >Cc: syty at syty.org >Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2006 7:26 AM >Subject: Re: [Syty] rust > > >It's actually Whink, which is a dilute solution of hydrofluoric acid. It should perform about the same as Larry Brown's muriatic acid and Dennis Olivares' nitric acid. All 3 of these are chemically considered 'strong' acids, which is why they etch concrete as well as 'remove' rust quicker. 'Weak' acids, such as acetic (vinegar) and carbonic (generated from baking soda) will also work, but will take a lot longer and may not remove some forms of rust. ("Rust" is a common term for various iron oxides.) > > >Iron Out is sodium hydrosulfite, which generates a "middle" strength acid when dissolved in water. > > >All these acids 'remove' rust by converting it to water soluble salts. For example, the muriatic acid converts iron oxides (red-brown and insoluble) to iron chloride (colorless and soluble). > > >If I was as good a mechanic as I am a chemist, my Typhoon would be running now! I'm still fussing with that fuel pump problem I mentioned on the list way back in April! > >Jeff > > > > > > >On Oct 11, 2006, at 7:43 PM, ken rose jr wrote: > > > Has anyone tried Wink.. Its a liquid rust remover. I use it to get the rust out of my toilet and it works better than iron out and other brands that I tried! I just squirt it on the rust stains and they vanish before your eyes like magic. The stuff is hard to find..kmart used to have it but i have not looked there lately.. Comes in a small bottle and costs around $4.00. Last time I bought it at the hardware store..Ace hardware I believe. Never tried it on concrete but I plan to cause my plow left some rust on my driveway. Hope this helps!!! > _______________________________________________ > Syty mailing list > Syty at syty.org > http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty > > > > >-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > >_______________________________________________ >Syty mailing list >Syty at syty.org >http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty >-------------- next part -------------- >An HTML attachment was scrubbed... >URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061023/a2903f5f/attachment-0001.htm > >------------------------------ > >Message: 2 >Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 16:27:00 EDT >From: Bullyhart at aol.com >Subject: Re: [Syty] rust >To: seravilo at netzero.net, jsmirz at comcast.net, rosekendeb at hotmail.com >Cc: syty at syty.org >Message-ID: <3f5.da2e3f4.326e7f94 at aol.com> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > >WHAT?!?!! And all this time I was under the misconception you had a PhD in >Coloproctology... > > >In a message dated 10/23/2006 2:09:48 P.M. Central Standard Time, >seravilo at netzero.net writes: > >You guys SLAY me! > >Any good chemist (I'm merely a physicist/engineer/attorney who got better >grades in chemistry) knows that NITRIC acid is "optimized" for etching >ferro-metals and copper as hydrofluoric acid is used to etch glass. So-called >"strong" acids refers to their relative pH at standardized concentrations... but >NOT to their universal reactivity with all substances, especially concrete. > >If I had any rust-stains on my driveway I'd go out and buy a flask of HNO3 >and that Flit or Whisk or Shout or Whatever and PROVE that my solution would >be as... if not more... effective and at a lower cost and with a less >deleterious impact on the local environment. > >But who would listen...? > >Have it your way(s), > >Dr. D.O. > > > > >-------------- next part -------------- >An HTML attachment was scrubbed... >URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061023/965b1a3e/attachment-0001.htm > >------------------------------ > >Message: 3 >Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 15:31:57 -0500 >From: "DOlivares" >Subject: Re: [Syty] rust >To: , , > >Cc: syty at syty.org >Message-ID: <00ee01c6f6e2$4a9972d0$63f85a42 at coresys1> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > >Still at it eh, laughing boy! > >Better the credential than the OBJECT of said credential, as you appear to be!! > >Remind me never to give you an exam ...with anything less than a harpoon! > >Dr. Colopro >-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > >----- Original Message ----- >From: Bullyhart at aol.com >To: seravilo at netzero.net ; jsmirz at comcast.net ; rosekendeb at hotmail.com >Cc: syty at syty.org >Sent: Monday, October 23, 2006 3:27 PM >Subject: Re: [Syty] rust > > >WHAT?!?!! And all this time I was under the misconception you had a PhD in Coloproctology... > > >In a message dated 10/23/2006 2:09:48 P.M. Central Standard Time, seravilo at netzero.net writes: > You guys SLAY me! > > Any good chemist (I'm merely a physicist/engineer/attorney who got better grades in chemistry) knows that NITRIC acid is "optimized" for etching ferro-metals and copper as hydrofluoric acid is used to etch glass. So-called "strong" acids refers to their relative pH at standardized concentrations... but NOT to their universal reactivity with all substances, especially concrete. > > If I had any rust-stains on my driveway I'd go out and buy a flask of HNO3 and that Flit or Whisk or Shout or Whatever and PROVE that my solution would be as... if not more... effective and at a lower cost and with a less deleterious impact on the local environment. > > But who would listen...? > > Have it your way(s), > > Dr. D.O. >-------------- next part -------------- >An HTML attachment was scrubbed... >URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061023/e2cbe884/attachment-0001.htm > >------------------------------ > >Message: 4 >Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 07:47:36 -0700 (PDT) >From: Dig >Subject: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 >To: syty at syty.org >Message-ID: <20061024144736.27720.qmail at web35302.mail.mud.yahoo.com> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ascii > > >If you're looking for just a good "replacement" pump, the 190 l/hr walbro is a good one: > >http://www.apeusa.com/ > >FPG001 > >Can't beat the price, and the quality exceeds the stockers. > >Ron's a Sy/Ty "old-timer" too, so he understands the application. > >Later, > >Dig >turbodig[at]yahoo.com > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Jeffrey Smirz > To: syty at syty.org > Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 8:03 PM > Subject: [Syty] Fuel Pump > > > The Ty's OEM pump is down to about 25 psi. The poor thing barely runs. I'm pumping and pulling the tank tomorrow. There was a lot of talk about Walbros in Feb. '05, but I'm not planning on racing, except the occasional stoplight Grand Prix. I'm leaning towards a Bosch replacement pump. Advice is welcome.....particularly if it comes from the one and only serovilo, grtyphoon, bullyhart, merk1993 or any of the other great contributors. > > Jeff > Syclone #950 (totaled in '99) > Syclone #1654 (formerly Chris Pearson's) > Typhoon #1165 > Indy, IN > > > > > >---------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > > >------------------------------ > >Message: 5 >Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 10:06:43 -0500 >From: Brian Dourty >Subject: Re: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 >To: Dig >Cc: syty at syty.org >Message-ID: <453E2C03.20805 at got-boost.net> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed > >While we are talking about fuel pumps...how hard would it be to fab up a >double pumper setup? What would be needed? > >Stock sending unit. >2 255 l/hr walbro's >Some sort of Y adapter to hook both pumps up to stock sending unit? >Would it NEED to be billit? >Relay to kick second pump on > >Anyone got a parts list from the old ATR double pumper? > >Brian > >Dig wrote: > > If you're looking for just a good "replacement" pump, the 190 l/hr walbro is a good one: > > > > http://www.apeusa.com/ > > > > FPG001 > > > > Can't beat the price, and the quality exceeds the stockers. > > > > Ron's a Sy/Ty "old-timer" too, so he understands the application. > > > > Later, > > > > Dig > > turbodig[at]yahoo.com > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: Jeffrey Smirz > > To: syty at syty.org > > Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 8:03 PM > > Subject: [Syty] Fuel Pump > > > > > > The Ty's OEM pump is down to about 25 psi. The poor thing barely runs. I'm pumping and pulling the tank tomorrow. There was a lot of talk about Walbros in Feb. '05, but I'm not planning on racing, except the occasional stoplight Grand Prix. I'm leaning towards a Bosch replacement pump. Advice is welcome.....particularly if it comes from the one and only serovilo, grtyphoon, bullyhart, merk1993 or any of the other great contributors. > > > > Jeff > > Syclone #950 (totaled in '99) > > Syclone #1654 (formerly Chris Pearson's) > > Typhoon #1165 > > Indy, IN > > > > > > > > > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Syty mailing list > > Syty at syty.org > > http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty > > > > > >------------------------------ > >_______________________________________________ >Syty mailing list >Syty at syty.org >http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty > > >End of Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 4 >*********************************** ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ Syty mailing list Syty at syty.org http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061024/d7971ddd/attachment.html From tydriver at turbols6.com Tue Oct 24 10:49:46 2006 From: tydriver at turbols6.com (tydriver@gmail.com) Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 11:49:46 -0400 Subject: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 References: <20061024144736.27720.qmail@web35302.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <453E2C03.20805@got-boost.net> Message-ID: <002701c6f784$0a0f0ca0$6401a8c0@laptop> I am not 100 % on the wiring but I know that Nolan did this setup before on a truck or two he was building..Personally I dont like the idea of running a hobbs type switch to kick the 2nd pump on (like the ATR setup) but thats just me. I would be interested in seeing how many problems you'd run into by running them both continuously. The setup that Nolan made had a Y adapter from the 2 pumps into the single feed line. I had some pictures of it around here somewhere but lost it with the most recent HD crash otherwise I'd forward them.. I checked canadiansyty.com and its no longer up anymore, so I dont know what happened to the information.. Maybe email Nolan directly ?? I would most definitely run a thicker gauge wire off the alternator back there with a relay of some sort to turn the pumps on when they'd normally run (similar to the boost-a-pump/or racetronix setup), using the stock fuel pump wire to trigger the relay. HTH, Todd ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brian Dourty" To: "Dig" Cc: Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 11:06 AM Subject: Re: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 > While we are talking about fuel pumps...how hard would it be to fab up a > double pumper setup? What would be needed? > > Stock sending unit. > 2 255 l/hr walbro's > Some sort of Y adapter to hook both pumps up to stock sending unit? Would > it NEED to be billit? > Relay to kick second pump on > > Anyone got a parts list from the old ATR double pumper? > > Brian > > Dig wrote: >> If you're looking for just a good "replacement" pump, the 190 l/hr walbro >> is a good one: >> >> http://www.apeusa.com/ >> >> FPG001 >> >> Can't beat the price, and the quality exceeds the stockers. >> >> Ron's a Sy/Ty "old-timer" too, so he understands the application. >> >> Later, >> >> Dig >> turbodig[at]yahoo.com >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: Jeffrey Smirz >> To: syty at syty.org >> Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 8:03 PM >> Subject: [Syty] Fuel Pump >> >> >> The Ty's OEM pump is down to about 25 psi. The poor thing barely >> runs. I'm pumping and pulling the tank tomorrow. There was a lot of >> talk about Walbros in Feb. '05, but I'm not planning on racing, except >> the occasional stoplight Grand Prix. I'm leaning towards a Bosch >> replacement pump. Advice is welcome.....particularly if it comes from >> the one and only serovilo, grtyphoon, bullyhart, merk1993 or any of the >> other great contributors. >> >> Jeff >> Syclone #950 (totaled in '99) >> Syclone #1654 (formerly Chris Pearson's) >> Typhoon #1165 >> Indy, IN >> >> >> >> >> >> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Syty mailing list >> Syty at syty.org >> http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty >> > > _______________________________________________ > Syty mailing list > Syty at syty.org > http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty > From turbodig at yahoo.com Tue Oct 24 11:18:35 2006 From: turbodig at yahoo.com (Dig) Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 09:18:35 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 Message-ID: <20061024161835.8755.qmail@web35305.mail.mud.yahoo.com> The y adapter was always the "expensive" part of the deal. Wouldn't have to be billet... just something that would fit in there, and wouldn't corrode in an alcohol environment. (read: anodized, or stainless, or zinc-coated) The thing that drove the billet "y" was the form-factor issue. If a guy were to discard everything below the plate that mounts to the top of the tank, you'd be free of that restriction. You'd have to fab your own holder from the plate to the pumps (a bent piece of bar stock), and you have to stay within the total length dimension of the stock setup (or reasonably close... within 1/2" or so) Here's a few AN "Y" adapters: http://www.magnafuel.com/products/accessories/Y-fittings/index.htm The hot steup would be to discard the tube fittings at the plate for a set of AN bulkheads, but that would add to the cost. Twin HP 255s could feed *lots* of HP at a fairly reasonable cost (<$300, if you use your old parts are are good at scrounging). The electronics are pretty easy... 30A bosch relay, wire, and a hobbs switch. Maybe we can goad Ron in to offering a parts kit.... Later, Dig ----- Original Message ---- From: Brian Dourty To: Dig Cc: syty at syty.org Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 10:06:43 AM Subject: Re: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 While we are talking about fuel pumps...how hard would it be to fab up a double pumper setup? What would be needed? Stock sending unit. 2 255 l/hr walbro's Some sort of Y adapter to hook both pumps up to stock sending unit? Would it NEED to be billit? Relay to kick second pump on Anyone got a parts list from the old ATR double pumper? Brian Dig wrote: From TurboV6 at telusplanet.net Tue Oct 24 11:34:12 2006 From: TurboV6 at telusplanet.net (Nolan Nykyforuk) Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 10:34:12 -0600 Subject: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 In-Reply-To: <20061024161835.8755.qmail@web35305.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20061024163408.CED8VGWK2H@priv-edtnaa06.telusplanet.net> There are pic here of the home made double pumper set up we put on trucks. http://gallery.jsmanufacturing.com/main.php?g2_view=core.ShowItem&g2_itemId= 5678 The pumps are wired to run all the time we just upgrade to a -6 return line so the fuel pressure can be controlled. We just used a 3/8" brass TEE from the local parts store HELP section. Simple and easy and cheap.. But if you do not plan to make more that 750hp we have tested the single intake 255 walbro with a msd fuel pump booster and made 726hp on the engine dyno with 84lbs injectors. Nolan -----Original Message----- From: syty-bounces at syty.org [mailto:syty-bounces at syty.org] On Behalf Of Dig Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 10:19 AM To: Brian Dourty Cc: syty at syty.org Subject: Re: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 The y adapter was always the "expensive" part of the deal. Wouldn't have to be billet... just something that would fit in there, and wouldn't corrode in an alcohol environment. (read: anodized, or stainless, or zinc-coated) The thing that drove the billet "y" was the form-factor issue. If a guy were to discard everything below the plate that mounts to the top of the tank, you'd be free of that restriction. You'd have to fab your own holder from the plate to the pumps (a bent piece of bar stock), and you have to stay within the total length dimension of the stock setup (or reasonably close... within 1/2" or so) Here's a few AN "Y" adapters: http://www.magnafuel.com/products/accessories/Y-fittings/index.htm The hot steup would be to discard the tube fittings at the plate for a set of AN bulkheads, but that would add to the cost. Twin HP 255s could feed *lots* of HP at a fairly reasonable cost (<$300, if you use your old parts are are good at scrounging). The electronics are pretty easy... 30A bosch relay, wire, and a hobbs switch. Maybe we can goad Ron in to offering a parts kit.... Later, Dig ----- Original Message ---- From: Brian Dourty To: Dig Cc: syty at syty.org Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 10:06:43 AM Subject: Re: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 While we are talking about fuel pumps...how hard would it be to fab up a double pumper setup? What would be needed? Stock sending unit. 2 255 l/hr walbro's Some sort of Y adapter to hook both pumps up to stock sending unit? Would it NEED to be billit? Relay to kick second pump on Anyone got a parts list from the old ATR double pumper? Brian Dig wrote: _______________________________________________ Syty mailing list Syty at syty.org http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty From seravilo at netzero.net Tue Oct 24 14:31:48 2006 From: seravilo at netzero.net (DOlivares) Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 14:31:48 -0500 Subject: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 References: <20061024144736.27720.qmail@web35302.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <453E2C03.20805@got-boost.net> Message-ID: <002f01c6f7a3$0d846c30$10f46942@coresys1> Space, ...especially around the floor of the tank is TIGHT, and it would take quite an imagination to rig up a pick-up plenum in lieu of trying to configure 2 filter-socks at the same height/level of gas so that neither would constrain the float-arm or suck air at anywhere less than a quarter-tank of fuel. But, my chief concern-- especially if one is contemplating parallel "super" pumps-- is that the GAUGE OF THE WIRE from the FP Relay all the way to the in-tank units would have to be beefed-up a couple of numbers to both ensure delivery of full voltage to the gerotors and prevent frying the harness... particularly when one pump runs dry for anything past 20 seconds. At some point, the stock architecture simply won't support gas-guzzling like a top-fuel dragster! Better to do a complete rework with a new tank, lines, wire-feed, and firehose-pump as they do on Horsepower TV.... Who needs that much gas for the street anyway? ...especially with the specter of $3/gal lurking at the horizon! Big Daddy D.O. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- Original Message ----- From: Brian Dourty To: Dig Cc: syty at syty.org Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 10:06 AM Subject: Re: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 While we are talking about fuel pumps...how hard would it be to fab up a double pumper setup? What would be needed? Stock sending unit. 2 255 l/hr walbro's Some sort of Y adapter to hook both pumps up to stock sending unit? Would it NEED to be billit? Relay to kick second pump on Anyone got a parts list from the old ATR double pumper? Brian Dig wrote: > If you're looking for just a good "replacement" pump, the 190 l/hr walbro is a good one: > > http://www.apeusa.com/ > > FPG001 > > Can't beat the price, and the quality exceeds the stockers. > > Ron's a Sy/Ty "old-timer" too, so he understands the application. > > Later, > > Dig > turbodig[at]yahoo.com > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Jeffrey Smirz > To: syty at syty.org > Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 8:03 PM > Subject: [Syty] Fuel Pump > > > The Ty's OEM pump is down to about 25 psi. The poor thing barely runs. I'm pumping and pulling the tank tomorrow. There was a lot of talk about Walbros in Feb. '05, but I'm not planning on racing, except the occasional stoplight Grand Prix. I'm leaning towards a Bosch replacement pump. Advice is welcome.....particularly if it comes from the one and only serovilo, grtyphoon, bullyhart, merk1993 or any of the other great contributors. > > Jeff > Syclone #950 (totaled in '99) > Syclone #1654 (formerly Chris Pearson's) > Typhoon #1165 > Indy, IN > > > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > _______________________________________________ > Syty mailing list > Syty at syty.org > http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty > _______________________________________________ Syty mailing list Syty at syty.org http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061024/b33d0d2b/attachment.html From seravilo at netzero.net Tue Oct 24 14:38:51 2006 From: seravilo at netzero.net (DOlivares) Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 14:38:51 -0500 Subject: [Syty] RE: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 4 References: <001d01c6f782$b32f2ba0$6401a8c0@laptop> Message-ID: <004801c6f7a4$0977c820$10f46942@coresys1> Bravely spoken! ...especially from a couple of punks whose daddies I used to extract lunch money from on a habitual basis! The only "smokescreen" you'll get from me is the fog I leave you in at the stoplight as I shred my slicks in yo face(s)!! Happy Motoring... 'til I take your pinkslip! -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- Original Message ----- From: tydriver at gmail.com To: George Prescott Cc: syty at syty.org Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 10:40 AM Subject: Re: [Syty] RE: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 4 Dunno about you George, but I think in DO's case his real title is "BLOWHARD" The rest is a smoke screen.. He's probably the kid that got shoved in a locker in grade school, maybe him and Ed Hess oughta get together.. Have a good day.. Todd ----- Original Message ----- From: George Prescott To: syty at syty.org Cc: rilawoffice at msn.com Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 11:23 AM Subject: [Syty] RE: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 4 Here I am , a physicist/engineer/attorney and car guy. I thought I was all alone. George Prescott ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: syty-request at syty.org Reply-To: syty at syty.org To: syty at syty.org Subject: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 4 Date: 24 Oct 2006 08:08:56 -0700 >Send Syty mailing list submissions to > syty at syty.org > >To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty >or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > syty-request at syty.org > >You can reach the person managing the list at > syty-owner at syty.org > >When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific >than "Re: Contents of Syty digest..." > > >Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: rust (DOlivares) > 2. Re: rust (Bullyhart at aol.com) > 3. Re: rust (DOlivares) > 4. Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 (Dig) > 5. Re: Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 (Brian Dourty) > > >---------------------------------------------------------------------- > >Message: 1 >Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 14:07:42 -0500 >From: "DOlivares" >Subject: Re: [Syty] rust >To: "Jeffrey Smirz" , "ken rose jr" > >Cc: SYTY >Message-ID: <00ce01c6f6d6$85e43e80$63f85a42 at coresys1> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > >You guys SLAY me! > >Any good chemist (I'm merely a physicist/engineer/attorney who got better grades in chemistry) knows that NITRIC acid is "optimized" for etching ferro-metals and copper as hydrofluoric acid is used to etch glass. So-called "strong" acids refers to their relative pH at standardized concentrations... but NOT to their universal reactivity with all substances, especially concrete. > >If I had any rust-stains on my driveway I'd go out and buy a flask of HNO3 and that Flit or Whisk or Shout or Whatever and PROVE that my solution would be as... if not more... effective and at a lower cost and with a less deleterious impact on the local environment. > >But who would listen...? > >Have it your way(s), > >Dr. D.O. >-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > >----- Original Message ----- >From: Jeffrey Smirz >To: ken rose jr >Cc: syty at syty.org >Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2006 7:26 AM >Subject: Re: [Syty] rust > > >It's actually Whink, which is a dilute solution of hydrofluoric acid. It should perform about the same as Larry Brown's muriatic acid and Dennis Olivares' nitric acid. All 3 of these are chemically considered 'strong' acids, which is why they etch concrete as well as 'remove' rust quicker. 'Weak' acids, such as acetic (vinegar) and carbonic (generated from baking soda) will also work, but will take a lot longer and may not remove some forms of rust. ("Rust" is a common term for various iron oxides.) > > >Iron Out is sodium hydrosulfite, which generates a "middle" strength acid when dissolved in water. > > >All these acids 'remove' rust by converting it to water soluble salts. For example, the muriatic acid converts iron oxides (red-brown and insoluble) to iron chloride (colorless and soluble). > > >If I was as good a mechanic as I am a chemist, my Typhoon would be running now! I'm still fussing with that fuel pump problem I mentioned on the list way back in April! > >Jeff > > > > > > >On Oct 11, 2006, at 7:43 PM, ken rose jr wrote: > > > Has anyone tried Wink.. Its a liquid rust remover. I use it to get the rust out of my toilet and it works better than iron out and other brands that I tried! I just squirt it on the rust stains and they vanish before your eyes like magic. The stuff is hard to find..kmart used to have it but i have not looked there lately.. Comes in a small bottle and costs around $4.00. Last time I bought it at the hardware store..Ace hardware I believe. Never tried it on concrete but I plan to cause my plow left some rust on my driveway. Hope this helps!!! > _______________________________________________ > Syty mailing list > Syty at syty.org > http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty > > > > >-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > >_______________________________________________ >Syty mailing list >Syty at syty.org >http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty >-------------- next part -------------- >An HTML attachment was scrubbed... >URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061023/a2903f5f/attachment-0001.htm > >------------------------------ > >Message: 2 >Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 16:27:00 EDT >From: Bullyhart at aol.com >Subject: Re: [Syty] rust >To: seravilo at netzero.net, jsmirz at comcast.net, rosekendeb at hotmail.com >Cc: syty at syty.org >Message-ID: <3f5.da2e3f4.326e7f94 at aol.com> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > >WHAT?!?!! And all this time I was under the misconception you had a PhD in >Coloproctology... > > >In a message dated 10/23/2006 2:09:48 P.M. Central Standard Time, >seravilo at netzero.net writes: > >You guys SLAY me! > >Any good chemist (I'm merely a physicist/engineer/attorney who got better >grades in chemistry) knows that NITRIC acid is "optimized" for etching >ferro-metals and copper as hydrofluoric acid is used to etch glass. So-called >"strong" acids refers to their relative pH at standardized concentrations... but >NOT to their universal reactivity with all substances, especially concrete. > >If I had any rust-stains on my driveway I'd go out and buy a flask of HNO3 >and that Flit or Whisk or Shout or Whatever and PROVE that my solution would >be as... if not more... effective and at a lower cost and with a less >deleterious impact on the local environment. > >But who would listen...? > >Have it your way(s), > >Dr. D.O. > > > > >-------------- next part -------------- >An HTML attachment was scrubbed... >URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061023/965b1a3e/attachment-0001.htm > >------------------------------ > >Message: 3 >Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 15:31:57 -0500 >From: "DOlivares" >Subject: Re: [Syty] rust >To: , , > >Cc: syty at syty.org >Message-ID: <00ee01c6f6e2$4a9972d0$63f85a42 at coresys1> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > >Still at it eh, laughing boy! > >Better the credential than the OBJECT of said credential, as you appear to be!! > >Remind me never to give you an exam ...with anything less than a harpoon! > >Dr. Colopro >-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > >----- Original Message ----- >From: Bullyhart at aol.com >To: seravilo at netzero.net ; jsmirz at comcast.net ; rosekendeb at hotmail.com >Cc: syty at syty.org >Sent: Monday, October 23, 2006 3:27 PM >Subject: Re: [Syty] rust > > >WHAT?!?!! And all this time I was under the misconception you had a PhD in Coloproctology... > > >In a message dated 10/23/2006 2:09:48 P.M. Central Standard Time, seravilo at netzero.net writes: > You guys SLAY me! > > Any good chemist (I'm merely a physicist/engineer/attorney who got better grades in chemistry) knows that NITRIC acid is "optimized" for etching ferro-metals and copper as hydrofluoric acid is used to etch glass. So-called "strong" acids refers to their relative pH at standardized concentrations... but NOT to their universal reactivity with all substances, especially concrete. > > If I had any rust-stains on my driveway I'd go out and buy a flask of HNO3 and that Flit or Whisk or Shout or Whatever and PROVE that my solution would be as... if not more... effective and at a lower cost and with a less deleterious impact on the local environment. > > But who would listen...? > > Have it your way(s), > > Dr. D.O. >-------------- next part -------------- >An HTML attachment was scrubbed... >URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061023/e2cbe884/attachment-0001.htm > >------------------------------ > >Message: 4 >Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 07:47:36 -0700 (PDT) >From: Dig >Subject: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 >To: syty at syty.org >Message-ID: <20061024144736.27720.qmail at web35302.mail.mud.yahoo.com> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ascii > > >If you're looking for just a good "replacement" pump, the 190 l/hr walbro is a good one: > >http://www.apeusa.com/ > >FPG001 > >Can't beat the price, and the quality exceeds the stockers. > >Ron's a Sy/Ty "old-timer" too, so he understands the application. > >Later, > >Dig >turbodig[at]yahoo.com > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Jeffrey Smirz > To: syty at syty.org > Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 8:03 PM > Subject: [Syty] Fuel Pump > > > The Ty's OEM pump is down to about 25 psi. The poor thing barely runs. I'm pumping and pulling the tank tomorrow. There was a lot of talk about Walbros in Feb. '05, but I'm not planning on racing, except the occasional stoplight Grand Prix. I'm leaning towards a Bosch replacement pump. Advice is welcome.....particularly if it comes from the one and only serovilo, grtyphoon, bullyhart, merk1993 or any of the other great contributors. > > Jeff > Syclone #950 (totaled in '99) > Syclone #1654 (formerly Chris Pearson's) > Typhoon #1165 > Indy, IN > > > > > >---------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > > >------------------------------ > >Message: 5 >Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 10:06:43 -0500 >From: Brian Dourty >Subject: Re: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 >To: Dig >Cc: syty at syty.org >Message-ID: <453E2C03.20805 at got-boost.net> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed > >While we are talking about fuel pumps...how hard would it be to fab up a >double pumper setup? What would be needed? > >Stock sending unit. >2 255 l/hr walbro's >Some sort of Y adapter to hook both pumps up to stock sending unit? >Would it NEED to be billit? >Relay to kick second pump on > >Anyone got a parts list from the old ATR double pumper? > >Brian > >Dig wrote: > > If you're looking for just a good "replacement" pump, the 190 l/hr walbro is a good one: > > > > http://www.apeusa.com/ > > > > FPG001 > > > > Can't beat the price, and the quality exceeds the stockers. > > > > Ron's a Sy/Ty "old-timer" too, so he understands the application. > > > > Later, > > > > Dig > > turbodig[at]yahoo.com > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: Jeffrey Smirz > > To: syty at syty.org > > Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 8:03 PM > > Subject: [Syty] Fuel Pump > > > > > > The Ty's OEM pump is down to about 25 psi. The poor thing barely runs. I'm pumping and pulling the tank tomorrow. There was a lot of talk about Walbros in Feb. '05, but I'm not planning on racing, except the occasional stoplight Grand Prix. I'm leaning towards a Bosch replacement pump. Advice is welcome.....particularly if it comes from the one and only serovilo, grtyphoon, bullyhart, merk1993 or any of the other great contributors. > > > > Jeff > > Syclone #950 (totaled in '99) > > Syclone #1654 (formerly Chris Pearson's) > > Typhoon #1165 > > Indy, IN > > > > > > > > > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Syty mailing list > > Syty at syty.org > > http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty > > > > > >------------------------------ > >_______________________________________________ >Syty mailing list >Syty at syty.org >http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty > > >End of Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 4 >*********************************** ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ Syty mailing list Syty at syty.org http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Syty mailing list Syty at syty.org http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061024/a90a14db/attachment.html From seravilo at netzero.net Tue Oct 24 14:43:10 2006 From: seravilo at netzero.net (DOlivares) Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 14:43:10 -0500 Subject: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 References: <20061024144736.27720.qmail@web35302.mail.mud.yahoo.com><453E2C03.20805@got-boost.net> <002701c6f784$0a0f0ca0$6401a8c0@laptop> Message-ID: <004f01c6f7a4$a4947dd0$10f46942@coresys1> I would say, "Great minds think alike," except I think it may at last be time for me to get that LOBOTOMY I've been planning ever since high school.... Just wanna fit in, Dr. D.O. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- Original Message ----- From: tydriver at gmail.com To: Brian Dourty Cc: syty at syty.org Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 10:49 AM Subject: Re: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 I am not 100 % on the wiring but I know that Nolan did this setup before on a truck or two he was building..Personally I dont like the idea of running a hobbs type switch to kick the 2nd pump on (like the ATR setup) but thats just me. I would be interested in seeing how many problems you'd run into by running them both continuously. The setup that Nolan made had a Y adapter from the 2 pumps into the single feed line. I had some pictures of it around here somewhere but lost it with the most recent HD crash otherwise I'd forward them.. I checked canadiansyty.com and its no longer up anymore, so I dont know what happened to the information.. Maybe email Nolan directly ?? I would most definitely run a thicker gauge wire off the alternator back there with a relay of some sort to turn the pumps on when they'd normally run (similar to the boost-a-pump/or racetronix setup), using the stock fuel pump wire to trigger the relay. HTH, Todd ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brian Dourty" To: "Dig" Cc: Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 11:06 AM Subject: Re: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 > While we are talking about fuel pumps...how hard would it be to fab up a > double pumper setup? What would be needed? > > Stock sending unit. > 2 255 l/hr walbro's > Some sort of Y adapter to hook both pumps up to stock sending unit? Would > it NEED to be billit? > Relay to kick second pump on > > Anyone got a parts list from the old ATR double pumper? > > Brian > > Dig wrote: >> If you're looking for just a good "replacement" pump, the 190 l/hr walbro >> is a good one: >> >> http://www.apeusa.com/ >> >> FPG001 >> >> Can't beat the price, and the quality exceeds the stockers. >> >> Ron's a Sy/Ty "old-timer" too, so he understands the application. >> >> Later, >> >> Dig >> turbodig[at]yahoo.com >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: Jeffrey Smirz >> To: syty at syty.org >> Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 8:03 PM >> Subject: [Syty] Fuel Pump >> >> >> The Ty's OEM pump is down to about 25 psi. The poor thing barely >> runs. I'm pumping and pulling the tank tomorrow. There was a lot of >> talk about Walbros in Feb. '05, but I'm not planning on racing, except >> the occasional stoplight Grand Prix. I'm leaning towards a Bosch >> replacement pump. Advice is welcome.....particularly if it comes from >> the one and only serovilo, grtyphoon, bullyhart, merk1993 or any of the >> other great contributors. >> >> Jeff >> Syclone #950 (totaled in '99) >> Syclone #1654 (formerly Chris Pearson's) >> Typhoon #1165 >> Indy, IN >> >> >> >> >> >> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Syty mailing list >> Syty at syty.org >> http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty >> > > _______________________________________________ > Syty mailing list > Syty at syty.org > http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty > _______________________________________________ Syty mailing list Syty at syty.org http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061024/f16fabb6/attachment.html From seravilo at netzero.net Tue Oct 24 14:52:07 2006 From: seravilo at netzero.net (DOlivares) Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 14:52:07 -0500 Subject: [Syty] RE: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 4 References: Message-ID: <007401c6f7a5$e4086de0$10f46942@coresys1> Hey, Mi Paisan! Welcome aboard the poopdeck of the Enterprise! With that background, ever practice patent law? Car guy...? Did you ever get NIASE-certified? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- Original Message ----- From: George Prescott To: syty at syty.org Cc: rilawoffice at msn.com Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 10:23 AM Subject: [Syty] RE: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 4 Here I am , a physicist/engineer/attorney and car guy. I thought I was all alone. George Prescott ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ From: syty-request at syty.org Reply-To: syty at syty.org To: syty at syty.org Subject: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 4 Date: 24 Oct 2006 08:08:56 -0700 >Send Syty mailing list submissions to > syty at syty.org > >To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty >or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > syty-request at syty.org > >You can reach the person managing the list at > syty-owner at syty.org > >When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific >than "Re: Contents of Syty digest..." > > >Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: rust (DOlivares) > 2. Re: rust (Bullyhart at aol.com) > 3. Re: rust (DOlivares) > 4. Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 (Dig) > 5. Re: Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 (Brian Dourty) > > >---------------------------------------------------------------------- > >Message: 1 >Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 14:07:42 -0500 >From: "DOlivares" >Subject: Re: [Syty] rust >To: "Jeffrey Smirz" , "ken rose jr" > >Cc: SYTY >Message-ID: <00ce01c6f6d6$85e43e80$63f85a42 at coresys1> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > >You guys SLAY me! > >Any good chemist (I'm merely a physicist/engineer/attorney who got better grades in chemistry) knows that NITRIC acid is "optimized" for etching ferro-metals and copper as hydrofluoric acid is used to etch glass. So-called "strong" acids refers to their relative pH at standardized concentrations... but NOT to their universal reactivity with all substances, especially concrete. > >If I had any rust-stains on my driveway I'd go out and buy a flask of HNO3 and that Flit or Whisk or Shout or Whatever and PROVE that my solution would be as... if not more... effective and at a lower cost and with a less deleterious impact on the local environment. > >But who would listen...? > >Have it your way(s), > >Dr. D.O. >-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > >----- Original Message ----- >From: Jeffrey Smirz >To: ken rose jr >Cc: syty at syty.org >Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2006 7:26 AM >Subject: Re: [Syty] rust > > >It's actually Whink, which is a dilute solution of hydrofluoric acid. It should perform about the same as Larry Brown's muriatic acid and Dennis Olivares' nitric acid. All 3 of these are chemically considered 'strong' acids, which is why they etch concrete as well as 'remove' rust quicker. 'Weak' acids, such as acetic (vinegar) and carbonic (generated from baking soda) will also work, but will take a lot longer and may not remove some forms of rust. ("Rust" is a common term for various iron oxides.) > > >Iron Out is sodium hydrosulfite, which generates a "middle" strength acid when dissolved in water. > > >All these acids 'remove' rust by converting it to water soluble salts. For example, the muriatic acid converts iron oxides (red-brown and insoluble) to iron chloride (colorless and soluble). > > >If I was as good a mechanic as I am a chemist, my Typhoon would be running now! I'm still fussing with that fuel pump problem I mentioned on the list way back in April! > >Jeff > > > > > > >On Oct 11, 2006, at 7:43 PM, ken rose jr wrote: > > > Has anyone tried Wink.. Its a liquid rust remover. I use it to get the rust out of my toilet and it works better than iron out and other brands that I tried! I just squirt it on the rust stains and they vanish before your eyes like magic. The stuff is hard to find..kmart used to have it but i have not looked there lately.. Comes in a small bottle and costs around $4.00. Last time I bought it at the hardware store..Ace hardware I believe. Never tried it on concrete but I plan to cause my plow left some rust on my driveway. Hope this helps!!! > _______________________________________________ > Syty mailing list > Syty at syty.org > http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty > > > > >-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > >_______________________________________________ >Syty mailing list >Syty at syty.org >http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty >-------------- next part -------------- >An HTML attachment was scrubbed... >URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061023/a2903f5f/attachment-0001.htm > >------------------------------ > >Message: 2 >Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 16:27:00 EDT >From: Bullyhart at aol.com >Subject: Re: [Syty] rust >To: seravilo at netzero.net, jsmirz at comcast.net, rosekendeb at hotmail.com >Cc: syty at syty.org >Message-ID: <3f5.da2e3f4.326e7f94 at aol.com> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > >WHAT?!?!! And all this time I was under the misconception you had a PhD in >Coloproctology... > > >In a message dated 10/23/2006 2:09:48 P.M. Central Standard Time, >seravilo at netzero.net writes: > >You guys SLAY me! > >Any good chemist (I'm merely a physicist/engineer/attorney who got better >grades in chemistry) knows that NITRIC acid is "optimized" for etching >ferro-metals and copper as hydrofluoric acid is used to etch glass. So-called >"strong" acids refers to their relative pH at standardized concentrations... but >NOT to their universal reactivity with all substances, especially concrete. > >If I had any rust-stains on my driveway I'd go out and buy a flask of HNO3 >and that Flit or Whisk or Shout or Whatever and PROVE that my solution would >be as... if not more... effective and at a lower cost and with a less >deleterious impact on the local environment. > >But who would listen...? > >Have it your way(s), > >Dr. D.O. > > > > >-------------- next part -------------- >An HTML attachment was scrubbed... >URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061023/965b1a3e/attachment-0001.htm > >------------------------------ > >Message: 3 >Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 15:31:57 -0500 >From: "DOlivares" >Subject: Re: [Syty] rust >To: , , > >Cc: syty at syty.org >Message-ID: <00ee01c6f6e2$4a9972d0$63f85a42 at coresys1> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > >Still at it eh, laughing boy! > >Better the credential than the OBJECT of said credential, as you appear to be!! > >Remind me never to give you an exam ...with anything less than a harpoon! > >Dr. Colopro >-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > >----- Original Message ----- >From: Bullyhart at aol.com >To: seravilo at netzero.net ; jsmirz at comcast.net ; rosekendeb at hotmail.com >Cc: syty at syty.org >Sent: Monday, October 23, 2006 3:27 PM >Subject: Re: [Syty] rust > > >WHAT?!?!! And all this time I was under the misconception you had a PhD in Coloproctology... > > >In a message dated 10/23/2006 2:09:48 P.M. Central Standard Time, seravilo at netzero.net writes: > You guys SLAY me! > > Any good chemist (I'm merely a physicist/engineer/attorney who got better grades in chemistry) knows that NITRIC acid is "optimized" for etching ferro-metals and copper as hydrofluoric acid is used to etch glass. So-called "strong" acids refers to their relative pH at standardized concentrations... but NOT to their universal reactivity with all substances, especially concrete. > > If I had any rust-stains on my driveway I'd go out and buy a flask of HNO3 and that Flit or Whisk or Shout or Whatever and PROVE that my solution would be as... if not more... effective and at a lower cost and with a less deleterious impact on the local environment. > > But who would listen...? > > Have it your way(s), > > Dr. D.O. >-------------- next part -------------- >An HTML attachment was scrubbed... >URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061023/e2cbe884/attachment-0001.htm > >------------------------------ > >Message: 4 >Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 07:47:36 -0700 (PDT) >From: Dig >Subject: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 >To: syty at syty.org >Message-ID: <20061024144736.27720.qmail at web35302.mail.mud.yahoo.com> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ascii > > >If you're looking for just a good "replacement" pump, the 190 l/hr walbro is a good one: > >http://www.apeusa.com/ > >FPG001 > >Can't beat the price, and the quality exceeds the stockers. > >Ron's a Sy/Ty "old-timer" too, so he understands the application. > >Later, > >Dig >turbodig[at]yahoo.com > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Jeffrey Smirz > To: syty at syty.org > Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 8:03 PM > Subject: [Syty] Fuel Pump > > > The Ty's OEM pump is down to about 25 psi. The poor thing barely runs. I'm pumping and pulling the tank tomorrow. There was a lot of talk about Walbros in Feb. '05, but I'm not planning on racing, except the occasional stoplight Grand Prix. I'm leaning towards a Bosch replacement pump. Advice is welcome.....particularly if it comes from the one and only serovilo, grtyphoon, bullyhart, merk1993 or any of the other great contributors. > > Jeff > Syclone #950 (totaled in '99) > Syclone #1654 (formerly Chris Pearson's) > Typhoon #1165 > Indy, IN > > > > > >---------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > > >------------------------------ > >Message: 5 >Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 10:06:43 -0500 >From: Brian Dourty >Subject: Re: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 >To: Dig >Cc: syty at syty.org >Message-ID: <453E2C03.20805 at got-boost.net> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed > >While we are talking about fuel pumps...how hard would it be to fab up a >double pumper setup? What would be needed? > >Stock sending unit. >2 255 l/hr walbro's >Some sort of Y adapter to hook both pumps up to stock sending unit? >Would it NEED to be billit? >Relay to kick second pump on > >Anyone got a parts list from the old ATR double pumper? > >Brian > >Dig wrote: > > If you're looking for just a good "replacement" pump, the 190 l/hr walbro is a good one: > > > > http://www.apeusa.com/ > > > > FPG001 > > > > Can't beat the price, and the quality exceeds the stockers. > > > > Ron's a Sy/Ty "old-timer" too, so he understands the application. > > > > Later, > > > > Dig > > turbodig[at]yahoo.com > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: Jeffrey Smirz > > To: syty at syty.org > > Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 8:03 PM > > Subject: [Syty] Fuel Pump > > > > > > The Ty's OEM pump is down to about 25 psi. The poor thing barely runs. I'm pumping and pulling the tank tomorrow. There was a lot of talk about Walbros in Feb. '05, but I'm not planning on racing, except the occasional stoplight Grand Prix. I'm leaning towards a Bosch replacement pump. Advice is welcome.....particularly if it comes from the one and only serovilo, grtyphoon, bullyhart, merk1993 or any of the other great contributors. > > > > Jeff > > Syclone #950 (totaled in '99) > > Syclone #1654 (formerly Chris Pearson's) > > Typhoon #1165 > > Indy, IN > > > > > > > > > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Syty mailing list > > Syty at syty.org > > http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty > > > > > >------------------------------ > >_______________________________________________ >Syty mailing list >Syty at syty.org >http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty > > >End of Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 4 >*********************************** -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Syty mailing list Syty at syty.org http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061024/352e5824/attachment.html From seravilo at netzero.net Tue Oct 24 14:54:20 2006 From: seravilo at netzero.net (DOlivares) Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 14:54:20 -0500 Subject: [Syty] RE: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 4 References: Message-ID: <008701c6f7a6$3b12fdd0$10f46942@coresys1> WE need to form our own club! Any relation to the Presidents (Bushes)? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- Original Message ----- From: George Prescott To: syty at syty.org Cc: rilawoffice at msn.com Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 10:23 AM Subject: [Syty] RE: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 4 Here I am , a physicist/engineer/attorney and car guy. I thought I was all alone. George Prescott ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ From: syty-request at syty.org Reply-To: syty at syty.org To: syty at syty.org Subject: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 4 Date: 24 Oct 2006 08:08:56 -0700 >Send Syty mailing list submissions to > syty at syty.org > >To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty >or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > syty-request at syty.org > >You can reach the person managing the list at > syty-owner at syty.org > >When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific >than "Re: Contents of Syty digest..." > > >Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: rust (DOlivares) > 2. Re: rust (Bullyhart at aol.com) > 3. Re: rust (DOlivares) > 4. Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 (Dig) > 5. Re: Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 (Brian Dourty) > > >---------------------------------------------------------------------- > >Message: 1 >Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 14:07:42 -0500 >From: "DOlivares" >Subject: Re: [Syty] rust >To: "Jeffrey Smirz" , "ken rose jr" > >Cc: SYTY >Message-ID: <00ce01c6f6d6$85e43e80$63f85a42 at coresys1> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > >You guys SLAY me! > >Any good chemist (I'm merely a physicist/engineer/attorney who got better grades in chemistry) knows that NITRIC acid is "optimized" for etching ferro-metals and copper as hydrofluoric acid is used to etch glass. So-called "strong" acids refers to their relative pH at standardized concentrations... but NOT to their universal reactivity with all substances, especially concrete. > >If I had any rust-stains on my driveway I'd go out and buy a flask of HNO3 and that Flit or Whisk or Shout or Whatever and PROVE that my solution would be as... if not more... effective and at a lower cost and with a less deleterious impact on the local environment. > >But who would listen...? > >Have it your way(s), > >Dr. D.O. >-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > >----- Original Message ----- >From: Jeffrey Smirz >To: ken rose jr >Cc: syty at syty.org >Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2006 7:26 AM >Subject: Re: [Syty] rust > > >It's actually Whink, which is a dilute solution of hydrofluoric acid. It should perform about the same as Larry Brown's muriatic acid and Dennis Olivares' nitric acid. All 3 of these are chemically considered 'strong' acids, which is why they etch concrete as well as 'remove' rust quicker. 'Weak' acids, such as acetic (vinegar) and carbonic (generated from baking soda) will also work, but will take a lot longer and may not remove some forms of rust. ("Rust" is a common term for various iron oxides.) > > >Iron Out is sodium hydrosulfite, which generates a "middle" strength acid when dissolved in water. > > >All these acids 'remove' rust by converting it to water soluble salts. For example, the muriatic acid converts iron oxides (red-brown and insoluble) to iron chloride (colorless and soluble). > > >If I was as good a mechanic as I am a chemist, my Typhoon would be running now! I'm still fussing with that fuel pump problem I mentioned on the list way back in April! > >Jeff > > > > > > >On Oct 11, 2006, at 7:43 PM, ken rose jr wrote: > > > Has anyone tried Wink.. Its a liquid rust remover. I use it to get the rust out of my toilet and it works better than iron out and other brands that I tried! I just squirt it on the rust stains and they vanish before your eyes like magic. The stuff is hard to find..kmart used to have it but i have not looked there lately.. Comes in a small bottle and costs around $4.00. Last time I bought it at the hardware store..Ace hardware I believe. Never tried it on concrete but I plan to cause my plow left some rust on my driveway. Hope this helps!!! > _______________________________________________ > Syty mailing list > Syty at syty.org > http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty > > > > >-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > >_______________________________________________ >Syty mailing list >Syty at syty.org >http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty >-------------- next part -------------- >An HTML attachment was scrubbed... >URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061023/a2903f5f/attachment-0001.htm > >------------------------------ > >Message: 2 >Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 16:27:00 EDT >From: Bullyhart at aol.com >Subject: Re: [Syty] rust >To: seravilo at netzero.net, jsmirz at comcast.net, rosekendeb at hotmail.com >Cc: syty at syty.org >Message-ID: <3f5.da2e3f4.326e7f94 at aol.com> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > >WHAT?!?!! And all this time I was under the misconception you had a PhD in >Coloproctology... > > >In a message dated 10/23/2006 2:09:48 P.M. Central Standard Time, >seravilo at netzero.net writes: > >You guys SLAY me! > >Any good chemist (I'm merely a physicist/engineer/attorney who got better >grades in chemistry) knows that NITRIC acid is "optimized" for etching >ferro-metals and copper as hydrofluoric acid is used to etch glass. So-called >"strong" acids refers to their relative pH at standardized concentrations... but >NOT to their universal reactivity with all substances, especially concrete. > >If I had any rust-stains on my driveway I'd go out and buy a flask of HNO3 >and that Flit or Whisk or Shout or Whatever and PROVE that my solution would >be as... if not more... effective and at a lower cost and with a less >deleterious impact on the local environment. > >But who would listen...? > >Have it your way(s), > >Dr. D.O. > > > > >-------------- next part -------------- >An HTML attachment was scrubbed... >URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061023/965b1a3e/attachment-0001.htm > >------------------------------ > >Message: 3 >Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 15:31:57 -0500 >From: "DOlivares" >Subject: Re: [Syty] rust >To: , , > >Cc: syty at syty.org >Message-ID: <00ee01c6f6e2$4a9972d0$63f85a42 at coresys1> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > >Still at it eh, laughing boy! > >Better the credential than the OBJECT of said credential, as you appear to be!! > >Remind me never to give you an exam ...with anything less than a harpoon! > >Dr. Colopro >-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > >----- Original Message ----- >From: Bullyhart at aol.com >To: seravilo at netzero.net ; jsmirz at comcast.net ; rosekendeb at hotmail.com >Cc: syty at syty.org >Sent: Monday, October 23, 2006 3:27 PM >Subject: Re: [Syty] rust > > >WHAT?!?!! And all this time I was under the misconception you had a PhD in Coloproctology... > > >In a message dated 10/23/2006 2:09:48 P.M. Central Standard Time, seravilo at netzero.net writes: > You guys SLAY me! > > Any good chemist (I'm merely a physicist/engineer/attorney who got better grades in chemistry) knows that NITRIC acid is "optimized" for etching ferro-metals and copper as hydrofluoric acid is used to etch glass. So-called "strong" acids refers to their relative pH at standardized concentrations... but NOT to their universal reactivity with all substances, especially concrete. > > If I had any rust-stains on my driveway I'd go out and buy a flask of HNO3 and that Flit or Whisk or Shout or Whatever and PROVE that my solution would be as... if not more... effective and at a lower cost and with a less deleterious impact on the local environment. > > But who would listen...? > > Have it your way(s), > > Dr. D.O. >-------------- next part -------------- >An HTML attachment was scrubbed... >URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061023/e2cbe884/attachment-0001.htm > >------------------------------ > >Message: 4 >Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 07:47:36 -0700 (PDT) >From: Dig >Subject: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 >To: syty at syty.org >Message-ID: <20061024144736.27720.qmail at web35302.mail.mud.yahoo.com> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ascii > > >If you're looking for just a good "replacement" pump, the 190 l/hr walbro is a good one: > >http://www.apeusa.com/ > >FPG001 > >Can't beat the price, and the quality exceeds the stockers. > >Ron's a Sy/Ty "old-timer" too, so he understands the application. > >Later, > >Dig >turbodig[at]yahoo.com > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Jeffrey Smirz > To: syty at syty.org > Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 8:03 PM > Subject: [Syty] Fuel Pump > > > The Ty's OEM pump is down to about 25 psi. The poor thing barely runs. I'm pumping and pulling the tank tomorrow. There was a lot of talk about Walbros in Feb. '05, but I'm not planning on racing, except the occasional stoplight Grand Prix. I'm leaning towards a Bosch replacement pump. Advice is welcome.....particularly if it comes from the one and only serovilo, grtyphoon, bullyhart, merk1993 or any of the other great contributors. > > Jeff > Syclone #950 (totaled in '99) > Syclone #1654 (formerly Chris Pearson's) > Typhoon #1165 > Indy, IN > > > > > >---------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > > >------------------------------ > >Message: 5 >Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 10:06:43 -0500 >From: Brian Dourty >Subject: Re: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 >To: Dig >Cc: syty at syty.org >Message-ID: <453E2C03.20805 at got-boost.net> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed > >While we are talking about fuel pumps...how hard would it be to fab up a >double pumper setup? What would be needed? > >Stock sending unit. >2 255 l/hr walbro's >Some sort of Y adapter to hook both pumps up to stock sending unit? >Would it NEED to be billit? >Relay to kick second pump on > >Anyone got a parts list from the old ATR double pumper? > >Brian > >Dig wrote: > > If you're looking for just a good "replacement" pump, the 190 l/hr walbro is a good one: > > > > http://www.apeusa.com/ > > > > FPG001 > > > > Can't beat the price, and the quality exceeds the stockers. > > > > Ron's a Sy/Ty "old-timer" too, so he understands the application. > > > > Later, > > > > Dig > > turbodig[at]yahoo.com > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: Jeffrey Smirz > > To: syty at syty.org > > Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 8:03 PM > > Subject: [Syty] Fuel Pump > > > > > > The Ty's OEM pump is down to about 25 psi. The poor thing barely runs. I'm pumping and pulling the tank tomorrow. There was a lot of talk about Walbros in Feb. '05, but I'm not planning on racing, except the occasional stoplight Grand Prix. I'm leaning towards a Bosch replacement pump. Advice is welcome.....particularly if it comes from the one and only serovilo, grtyphoon, bullyhart, merk1993 or any of the other great contributors. > > > > Jeff > > Syclone #950 (totaled in '99) > > Syclone #1654 (formerly Chris Pearson's) > > Typhoon #1165 > > Indy, IN > > > > > > > > > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Syty mailing list > > Syty at syty.org > > http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty > > > > > >------------------------------ > >_______________________________________________ >Syty mailing list >Syty at syty.org >http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty > > >End of Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 4 >*********************************** -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Syty mailing list Syty at syty.org http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061024/3173a5f8/attachment.html From turbodig at yahoo.com Tue Oct 24 16:31:32 2006 From: turbodig at yahoo.com (Dig) Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 14:31:32 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Syty] Double-pumper (was Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 6) Message-ID: <20061024213132.31245.qmail@web35308.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I don't think the hobbs really adds much either, particularly in an environment where you can tune stuff. Back in the old days, it was sort of seen as a way to combat fuel loading on the low end, while providing more at the top. It would save wear/tear on the second pump, however. I never saw more than a 2-3 psi jump by activating the second pump, which wouldn't even amount to a .1 AFR change with stock injectors. It would likely be more significant with larger injectors. I wouldn't dream of running both pumps with the same wiring. Personally, I wouldn't run *either* pump with the OEM wiring. Get some nice weatherpack connectors from waytek, and make a nice 10-ga harness, with really good grounds to the frame. I've seen stock fuel line setups support mid 10 second vehicles, so the line capacity is there. Generally, if you go faster than that, you're going to be doing more with the fuel system anyway. Side topic... is really odd digest operation normal? Or does it digest by kb? Nothing for a week, then 4 all on the same day? Later, Dig ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 11:49:46 -0400 From: "tydriver at gmail.com" Subject: Re: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 To: "Brian Dourty" Cc: syty at syty.org Message-ID: <002701c6f784$0a0f0ca0$6401a8c0 at laptop> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=response I am not 100 % on the wiring but I know that Nolan did this setup before on a truck or two he was building..Personally I dont like the idea of running a hobbs type switch to kick the 2nd pump on (like the ATR setup) but thats just me. I would be interested in seeing how many problems you'd run into by running them both continuously. The setup that Nolan made had a Y adapter from the 2 pumps into the single feed line. I had some pictures of it around here somewhere but lost it with the most recent HD crash otherwise I'd forward them.. I checked canadiansyty.com and its no longer up anymore, so I dont know what happened to the information.. Maybe email Nolan directly ?? I would most definitely run a thicker gauge wire off the alternator back there with a relay of some sort to turn the pumps on when they'd normally run (similar to the boost-a-pump/or racetronix setup), using the stock fuel pump wire to trigger the relay. HTH, Todd -- From TurboV6 at telusplanet.net Tue Oct 24 20:19:13 2006 From: TurboV6 at telusplanet.net (Nolan Nykyforuk) Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 19:19:13 -0600 Subject: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 In-Reply-To: <002f01c6f7a3$0d846c30$10f46942@coresys1> Message-ID: <20061025011908.D292LGVG4T@priv-edtnaa06.telusplanet.net> Guess I should have mentioned we used a 30amp relay fed off the back of the alternator with #10 wire. We also made one of the grounds that is on the sealed connector a power feed so we had two power feed pins. We drilled and taped a hole in the top Of the sender and made that the ground instead. We also y together the power feeds after going thru the two connector pins. This way one connector fries both Pumps get power still. If both connectors fry then both pumps turn off. Simple and no chance of lean out. Nolan _____ From: syty-bounces at syty.org [mailto:syty-bounces at syty.org] On Behalf Of DOlivares Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 1:32 PM To: Brian Dourty; Dig Cc: syty at syty.org Subject: Re: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 Importance: Low Space, ...especially around the floor of the tank is TIGHT, and it would take quite an imagination to rig up a pick-up plenum in lieu of trying to configure 2 filter-socks at the same height/level of gas so that neither would constrain the float-arm or suck air at anywhere less than a quarter-tank of fuel. But, my chief concern-- especially if one is contemplating parallel "super" pumps-- is that the GAUGE OF THE WIRE from the FP Relay all the way to the in-tank units would have to be beefed-up a couple of numbers to both ensure delivery of full voltage to the gerotors and prevent frying the harness... particularly when one pump runs dry for anything past 20 seconds. At some point, the stock architecture simply won't support gas-guzzling like a top-fuel dragster! Better to do a complete rework with a new tank, lines, wire-feed, and firehose-pump as they do on Horsepower TV.... Who needs that much gas for the street anyway? ...especially with the specter of $3/gal lurking at the horizon! Big Daddy D.O. _____ ----- Original Message ----- From: Brian Dourty To: Dig Cc: syty at syty.org Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 10:06 AM Subject: Re: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 While we are talking about fuel pumps...how hard would it be to fab up a double pumper setup? What would be needed? Stock sending unit. 2 255 l/hr walbro's Some sort of Y adapter to hook both pumps up to stock sending unit? Would it NEED to be billit? Relay to kick second pump on Anyone got a parts list from the old ATR double pumper? Brian Dig wrote: > If you're looking for just a good "replacement" pump, the 190 l/hr walbro is a good one: > > http://www.apeusa.com/ > > FPG001 > > Can't beat the price, and the quality exceeds the stockers. > > Ron's a Sy/Ty "old-timer" too, so he understands the application. > > Later, > > Dig > turbodig[at]yahoo.com > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Jeffrey Smirz > To: syty at syty.org > Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 8:03 PM > Subject: [Syty] Fuel Pump > > > The Ty's OEM pump is down to about 25 psi. The poor thing barely runs. I'm pumping and pulling the tank tomorrow. There was a lot of talk about Walbros in Feb. '05, but I'm not planning on racing, except the occasional stoplight Grand Prix. I'm leaning towards a Bosch replacement pump. Advice is welcome.....particularly if it comes from the one and only serovilo, grtyphoon, bullyhart, merk1993 or any of the other great contributors. > > Jeff > Syclone #950 (totaled in '99) > Syclone #1654 (formerly Chris Pearson's) > Typhoon #1165 > Indy, IN > > > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > _______________________________________________ > Syty mailing list > Syty at syty.org > http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty > _______________________________________________ Syty mailing list Syty at syty.org http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061024/91d4b1d0/attachment.html From seravilo at netzero.net Wed Oct 25 12:48:02 2006 From: seravilo at netzero.net (DOlivares) Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2006 12:48:02 -0500 Subject: [Syty] rust References: <00ce01c6f6d6$85e43e80$63f85a42@coresys1> <7F530B6E-D2DC-4899-BA23-451C88482B91@comcast.net> Message-ID: <005901c6f85d$b9317130$0df46942@coresys1> Very well... I BOW to your correction! The rest of youse better print this thing out and frame it 'cause you're unlikely to ever see its like again.... Your Obedient Savant -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- Original Message ----- From: Jeffrey Smirz To: DOlivares Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 5:21 PM Subject: Re: [Syty] rust Dennis, Since you're merely a physicist/engineer/attorney, your 'understanding' of chemistry is, well, understandable. You are confusing acid-base chemistry with oxidation-reduction chemistry. Nitric acid happens to be BOTH a strong acid and a strong oxidizing agent. The fact that it can "etch" metals has nothing to do with it's acidity; and it's ability to react with iron oxides has nothing to with it's oxidizing agency. Using nitric acid, or any strong acid (one that completely dissociates into hydronium ions in water) to remove rust from concrete is overkill to the extreme, which is one reason it's not found in household preparations for that purpose. Weaker acids such as oxalic, phosphoric and, yes, hydrofluoric, convert iron oxides to colorless salts with much less danger to the concrete, although HF is extremely toxid to your flesh. Salts that form even weaker acids in aqueous solution, such as sodium bisulfite/sodium hydrosulfite (Iron Out) or ammonium citrate are usually adequate and about as non-toxic to both you and the environment as you can get and still get the job done. Jeff On Oct 23, 2006, at 3:07 PM, DOlivares wrote: You guys SLAY me! Any good chemist (I'm merely a physicist/engineer/attorney who got better grades in chemistry) knows that NITRIC acid is "optimized" for etching ferro-metals and copper as hydrofluoric acid is used to etch glass. So-called "strong" acids refers to their relative pH at standardized concentrations... but NOT to their universal reactivity with all substances, especially concrete. If I had any rust-stains on my driveway I'd go out and buy a flask of HNO3 and that Flit or Whisk or Shout or Whatever andPROVE that my solution would be as... if not more... effective and at a lower cost and with a less deleterious impact on the local environment. But who would listen...? Have it your way(s), Dr. D.O. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ ----- Original Message ----- From: Jeffrey Smirz To: ken rose jr Cc: syty at syty.org Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2006 7:26 AM Subject: Re: [Syty] rust It's actually Whink, which is a dilute solution of hydrofluoric acid. It should perform about the same as Larry Brown's muriatic acid and Dennis Olivares' nitric acid. All 3 of these are chemically considered 'strong' acids, which is why they etch concrete as well as 'remove' rust quicker. 'Weak' acids, such as acetic (vinegar) and carbonic (generated from baking soda) will also work, but will take a lot longer and may not remove some forms of rust. ("Rust" is a common term for various iron oxides.) Iron Out is sodium hydrosulfite, which generates a "middle" strength acid when dissolved in water. All these acids 'remove' rust by converting it to water soluble salts. For example, the muriatic acid converts iron oxides (red-brown and insoluble) to iron chloride (colorless and soluble). If I was as good a mechanic as I am a chemist, my Typhoon would be running now! I'm still fussing with that fuel pump problem I mentioned on the list way back in April! Jeff On Oct 11, 2006, at 7:43 PM, ken rose jr wrote: Has anyone tried Wink.. Its a liquid rust remover. I use it to get the rust out of my toilet and it works better than iron out and other brands that I tried! I just squirt it on the rust stains and they vanish before your eyes like magic. The stuff is hard to find..kmart used to have it but i have not looked there lately.. Comes in a small bottle and costs around $4.00. Last time I bought it at the hardware store..Ace hardware I believe. Never tried it on concrete but I plan to cause my plow left some rust on my driveway. Hope this helps!!! _______________________________________________ Syty mailing list Syty at syty.org http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ Syty mailing list Syty at syty.org http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061025/829ccfe9/attachment.html From GMCTy at aol.com Tue Oct 10 10:40:46 2006 From: GMCTy at aol.com (GMCTy at aol.com) Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2006 11:40:46 EDT Subject: [Syty] exhaust Message-ID: Have a 93 Typhoon. Need a exhaust. Both muffler and tailpipe. Prefer stock. Any help would appreciate it. I'm near Chicago. Thanks in advance. Howie -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061010/71d765cb/attachment-0001.html From Mr2879sy at aol.com Tue Oct 10 12:05:51 2006 From: Mr2879sy at aol.com (Mr2879sy at aol.com) Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2006 13:05:51 EDT Subject: [Syty] exhaust Message-ID: In a message dated 10/10/2006 10:43:14 AM Central Daylight Time, GMCTy at aol.com writes: > Have a 93 Typhoon. Need a exhaust. Both muffler and tailpipe. Prefer stock. > Any help would appreciate it. > I'm near Chicago. > > Thanks in advance. > > Howie > your only option it to get one from Mike Lee @ Race Proven Motors. I copied him on this e-mail marty-mj - www.syborgtwinturbo.com www.syborgtwinturbo.com/gallery -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061010/b12826ac/attachment-0001.html From PatMerri at aol.com Tue Oct 10 13:04:59 2006 From: PatMerri at aol.com (PatMerri at aol.com) Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2006 14:04:59 EDT Subject: [Syty] Wheels Message-ID: While in a local GMC dealer this morning I found a full set of what looks like new syty wheels mounted with almost new studded snow tires. Anyone with any interest I'd be glad to pursue this. Located in Sandpoint ID. They don't know where the center caps are. Pat SY 1508 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061010/5a397540/attachment-0001.html From turbodig at yahoo.com Tue Oct 10 13:28:52 2006 From: turbodig at yahoo.com (Dig) Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2006 11:28:52 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 1 Message-ID: <20061010182852.34285.qmail@web35310.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Didja try CLR? The scrub/rinse cycle with Muriatic has worked for me in the past. You don't want to leave it there long, though. Dig --- From: syty-bounces at syty.org [mailto:syty-bounces at syty.org] On Behalf Of Larry Brown Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 1:07 PM To: SyTy List Subject: [Syty] Anyone remove concrete rust? Anyone: ...I`m told there is nothing that removes concrete rust. Unfortunately my driveway has poka-dots and household cleaners do nothing or worse make white bleach stains (and leave the original rust). Even tried a drill pad to work in different solutions, with no help. thought I`d ask Larry From jsmirz at comcast.net Tue Oct 10 16:53:34 2006 From: jsmirz at comcast.net (Jeffrey Smirz) Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2006 17:53:34 -0400 Subject: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 1 In-Reply-To: <20061010182852.34285.qmail@web35310.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <20061010182852.34285.qmail@web35310.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <666FAC92-E97B-4723-B49D-BFF4FE56692E@comcast.net> I recommended Iron Out to him. It'll take the rust out and not harm the concrete. Jeff On Oct 10, 2006, at 2:28 PM, Dig wrote: > Didja try CLR? > > The scrub/rinse cycle with Muriatic has worked for me in the past. > You don't want to leave it there long, though. > > Dig > > --- > From: syty-bounces at syty.org [mailto:syty-bounces at syty.org] On > Behalf Of Larry Brown > Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 1:07 PM > To: SyTy List > Subject: [Syty] Anyone remove concrete rust? > > > Anyone: > > ...I`m told there is nothing that removes concrete rust. > > Unfortunately my driveway has poka-dots and household cleaners > do nothing > > or worse make white bleach stains (and leave the original rust). > > Even tried a drill pad to work in different solutions, with no > help. > > > thought I`d ask > > Larry > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Syty mailing list > Syty at syty.org > http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061010/77f69c2d/attachment-0001.html From larrybrown at prolynx.com Tue Oct 10 19:19:25 2006 From: larrybrown at prolynx.com (Larry Brown) Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2006 18:19:25 -0600 Subject: [Syty] Driveway Rust Cleaner "Results"... References: <20061010182852.34285.qmail@web35310.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <666FAC92-E97B-4723-B49D-BFF4FE56692E@comcast.net> Message-ID: <002e01c6ecca$ea22dca0$0200a8c0@larryPC> Okay Thanks to all who responded to my original driveway cleaner inquiry on rust removal... And the winner is.....IRON OUT..... I bought almost every product that the group recommended. Tried using each with a brush, steelwool, brillow pad, broom and drill with foam pad. With Iron Out, I found that by mildly diluting, and using a broom, the stains were removed and only a minimum amount of white reside remained after rinsing. Since Im on a corner lot, and the sidewalks, driveway, and steps all were spotted, it took 3 bottles of Iron Out to do the job. And strangely, Home Depot didnt have it but Lowes did. In fact, none of the clerks at either store had any idea of what to use. I did not want to kill the wife`s flowers (or poison the neighbors dogs/cats) or ruin the lawn so I used rather sparingly. And while I`ve seen people discarding crap via curbside gutters, I tend to be rather prudent (thinking the downhill neighbors would not appreciate toxic waste in their surrounding). So it took awhile to test and report back. Thanks to all who responded. Larry Brown ----- Original Message ----- From: Jeffrey Smirz To: Dig Cc: syty at syty.org Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 3:53 PM Subject: Re: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 1 I recommended Iron Out to him. It'll take the rust out and not harm the concrete. Jeff On Oct 10, 2006, at 2:28 PM, Dig wrote: Didja try CLR? The scrub/rinse cycle with Muriatic has worked for me in the past. You don't want to leave it there long, though. Dig --- From: syty-bounces at syty.org [mailto:syty-bounces at syty.org] On Behalf Of Larry Brown Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 1:07 PM To: SyTy List Subject: [Syty] Anyone remove concrete rust? Anyone: ...I`m told there is nothing that removes concrete rust. Unfortunately my driveway has poka-dots and household cleaners do nothing or worse make white bleach stains (and leave the original rust). Even tried a drill pad to work in different solutions, with no help. thought I`d ask Larry _______________________________________________ Syty mailing list Syty at syty.org http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ Syty mailing list Syty at syty.org http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061010/ed09da49/attachment-0001.html From larrybrown at prolynx.com Wed Oct 11 16:51:12 2006 From: larrybrown at prolynx.com (Larry Brown) Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2006 15:51:12 -0600 Subject: [Syty] Driveway Rust Cleaner "Results"... References: <20061010182852.34285.qmail@web35310.mail.mud.yahoo.com><666FAC92-E97B-4723-B49D-BFF4FE56692E@comcast.net> <002e01c6ecca$ea22dca0$0200a8c0@larryPC> <002301c6ed75$6a3e9280$16f46942@coresys1> Message-ID: <001301c6ed7f$5ffe03f0$0200a8c0@larryPC> fwiw Actually I tried Muriatic Acid (some of the bottles called it etching fluid) in various strengths without any success. I left one spot sit for about 10 minutes, used my drill and foam pad, and after rinsing got a "dimmed spot" and a white stain circle where no stain existed. I figure it would have taken me all summer to clean the driveway, stairs, and sidewalk leaving a poka-dotted landscape...ie not too cool. I also worried about killing plants/things around me. Had to "chase" a neighbors pet dog away who kept wanting to drink the stuff (as it was a hot day, around noon). Whats amazing, is that I dressed up in rubber gloves, eye goggles, and rubber boots thinking ( & looking like goober) that the stuff was gonna melt the cement. It didnt. I did have 1/2 dozen cars passing by stop to ask me if the stuff was working and showing interest. Turns out, after using the Iron Out, I also had neighbors asking me to do their surrounding areas....but I declined. Maybe there`s a profession out there for me after all. I dont know if the help at hardware stores are lame (home depot, ace hardware, and lowes) or lazy. But only lowes carried the Iron Out and it was hidden on a back shelf behind some dodads. Fortunately the sticker price was still on it so I didnt have to have a hour long price check on aisle 5. As I remember, the stuff is kinda expensive (about $10.00 for something that looks like a quart). Im now watching where I apply fertilizer, as it definitely (as with radiator fluid) stain the cement something awful. -Larry ----- Original Message ----- From: DOlivares To: Larry Brown Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2006 2:39 PM Subject: Re: [Syty] Driveway Rust Cleaner "Results"... Did you ever try NITRIC ACID? I never could get any reaction for this superior technique. D.O. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ ----- Original Message ----- From: Larry Brown To: syty at syty.org Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 7:19 PM Subject: [Syty] Driveway Rust Cleaner "Results"... Okay Thanks to all who responded to my original driveway cleaner inquiry on rust removal... And the winner is.....IRON OUT..... I bought almost every product that the group recommended. Tried using each with a brush, steelwool, brillow pad, broom and drill with foam pad. With Iron Out, I found that by mildly diluting, and using a broom, the stains were removed and only a minimum amount of white reside remained after rinsing. Since Im on a corner lot, and the sidewalks, driveway, and steps all were spotted, it took 3 bottles of Iron Out to do the job. And strangely, Home Depot didnt have it but Lowes did. In fact, none of the clerks at either store had any idea of what to use. I did not want to kill the wife`s flowers (or poison the neighbors dogs/cats) or ruin the lawn so I used rather sparingly. And while I`ve seen people discarding crap via curbside gutters, I tend to be rather prudent (thinking the downhill neighbors would not appreciate toxic waste in their surrounding). So it took awhile to test and report back. Thanks to all who responded. Larry Brown ----- Original Message ----- From: Jeffrey Smirz To: Dig Cc: syty at syty.org Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 3:53 PM Subject: Re: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 1 I recommended Iron Out to him. It'll take the rust out and not harm the concrete. Jeff On Oct 10, 2006, at 2:28 PM, Dig wrote: Didja try CLR? The scrub/rinse cycle with Muriatic has worked for me in the past. You don't want to leave it there long, though. Dig --- From: syty-bounces at syty.org [mailto:syty-bounces at syty.org] On Behalf Of Larry Brown Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 1:07 PM To: SyTy List Subject: [Syty] Anyone remove concrete rust? Anyone: ...I`m told there is nothing that removes concrete rust. Unfortunately my driveway has poka-dots and household cleaners do nothing or worse make white bleach stains (and leave the original rust). Even tried a drill pad to work in different solutions, with no help. thought I`d ask Larry _______________________________________________ Syty mailing list Syty at syty.org http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Syty mailing list Syty at syty.org http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ Syty mailing list Syty at syty.org http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061011/04d6ed41/attachment-0001.html From rosekendeb at hotmail.com Wed Oct 11 18:43:29 2006 From: rosekendeb at hotmail.com (ken rose jr) Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2006 18:43:29 -0500 Subject: [Syty] rust Message-ID: Has anyone tried Wink.. Its a liquid rust remover. I use it to get the rust out of my toilet and it works better than iron out and other brands that I tried! I just squirt it on the rust stains and they vanish before your eyes like magic. The stuff is hard to find..kmart used to have it but i have not looked there lately.. Comes in a small bottle and costs around $4.00. Last time I bought it at the hardware store..Ace hardware I believe. Never tried it on concrete but I plan to cause my plow left some rust on my driveway. Hope this helps!!! -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061011/acbe2758/attachment-0001.html From jsmirz at comcast.net Thu Oct 12 07:26:17 2006 From: jsmirz at comcast.net (Jeffrey Smirz) Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2006 08:26:17 -0400 Subject: [Syty] rust In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: It's actually Whink, which is a dilute solution of hydrofluoric acid. It should perform about the same as Larry Brown's muriatic acid and Dennis Olivares' nitric acid. All 3 of these are chemically considered 'strong' acids, which is why they etch concrete as well as 'remove' rust quicker. 'Weak' acids, such as acetic (vinegar) and carbonic (generated from baking soda) will also work, but will take a lot longer and may not remove some forms of rust. ("Rust" is a common term for various iron oxides.) Iron Out is sodium hydrosulfite, which generates a "middle" strength acid when dissolved in water. All these acids 'remove' rust by converting it to water soluble salts. For example, the muriatic acid converts iron oxides (red- brown and insoluble) to iron chloride (colorless and soluble). If I was as good a mechanic as I am a chemist, my Typhoon would be running now! I'm still fussing with that fuel pump problem I mentioned on the list way back in April! Jeff On Oct 11, 2006, at 7:43 PM, ken rose jr wrote: > Has anyone tried Wink.. Its a liquid rust remover. I use it to get > the rust out of my toilet and it works better than iron out and > other brands that I tried! I just squirt it on the rust stains and > they vanish before your eyes like magic. The stuff is hard to > find..kmart used to have it but i have not looked there lately.. > Comes in a small bottle and costs around $4.00. Last time I bought > it at the hardware store..Ace hardware I believe. Never tried it on > concrete but I plan to cause my plow left some rust on my driveway. > Hope this helps!!! > _______________________________________________ > Syty mailing list > Syty at syty.org > http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061012/e12eb8ea/attachment-0001.html From seravilo at netzero.net Mon Oct 23 08:36:24 2006 From: seravilo at netzero.net (DOlivares) Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 08:36:24 -0500 Subject: [Syty] Fuel Pump References: <003501c662e2$4ec06380$07f46942@coresys1> <5C0264B5-ECE6-454E-A4C9-3C5A32E1A87A@comcast.net> <002b01c66344$7a0ff570$18f46942@coresys1> <1B0F8AE0-9797-4FF0-AF64-DA24C54245A2@comcast.net> Message-ID: <001401c6f6a8$9e8283d0$63f85a42@coresys1> Damn! Did I really write all of that? ...seems like years ago instead of mere months! I'm not sure I could match such a prolific output today, especially since almost no one listens to me-- especially about NITRIC ACID!!! Retired Mr. Wizard -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- Original Message ----- From: Jeffrey Smirz To: DOlivares Sent: Monday, October 23, 2006 7:38 AM Subject: Re: [Syty] Fuel Pump I'll probably mount the old pump on a plaque as a trophy to my new-found expertise. Jeff On Apr 18, 2006, at 8:01 PM, DOlivares wrote: OEM IS a Bosch. Supposedly, legend has it, the Typhoon and TTA pumps were the best of the breed, but I can tell you from personal experience that my TTA pump was constantly starving out, even from the first day I drove it new in 1989. All the eventual versions of adjustable-FPR never helped me on the top end. As for the Typhoon stock pump... I haven't driven it enough to give an impression.... Since you're gonna rewire that harness-- a bit of a romantic exercise in ultimate futility (like cc-ing your heads) unless you're installing a true high-amp pump(s) in a first-gen Grand National, which isn't necessary for street/strip-- you might want to consider the viable alternative of retaining the stock wiring and splicing-in one of those Boost-a-Volt (or whatever they call 'em nowdays) on-demand overdrivers for the FP. I got one from Kennedy-Bell and it RESURRECTED my stock-schlock Bosch TTA FP. Too bad I never got to drive it much before I tore the engine down again.... I'm tempted to install one (basically, a 13-to-18-volt DC-DC Converter which is enabled by a boost-switch) on my 'Clone but with that fat Walbro 255 in there now-- which never chokes or starves-- I'm not sure it will do much good for the cam and injectors I'm currently running. Your plans might be different.... Think about it, D.O. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ ----- Original Message ----- From: Jeffrey Smirz To: DOlivares Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2006 8:11 AM Subject: Re: [Syty] Fuel Pump Thanx Dennis. I had originally thought the FPR to be the culprit, but confirmed the pump problem using the technique you (and the GM manual) describe. You seem to be suggesting that the OEM pump is already a Bosch? If so, I'll definitely go Walbro, but based on last year's flurry of messages on the subject, I'll likely spring for the extra bucks and wait-time to get Racetronix' plug-n-play harness as well. Jeff On Apr 18, 2006, at 8:19 AM, DOlivares wrote: Thanx for the advance-vote of confidence, Jeff, But so far my experience with Walbros versus stock-Bosches strongly favors the FORMER. And now that I think about it,everystock-Bosch pump I ever owned has been high on longevity but POOR in providing that nice neck-snapping PRESSURE needed for smooth full-throttle response. Price-wise, they don't compare well either: Putting that Walbro 255 in the tank (sans "pulsator") this past Summer only cost me$69 delivered based on a lucky eBay purchase! That thing will put out over 93psi with my FPR cranked-in all the way-- and before further diaphragm depression from turbo boost! I'll never go back to Bosch!! I recommend you don't either. Be not afraid! That extra pressure/flow will be there when you most need it... and may well save your pistons during a full-throttle blast in peak-summer weather. Check out the offerings on eBay under "Syclone Fuel Pump" for the best deals vis-a-vis regular Internet providers of Walbros.... Although I've yet to publish my unique troubles with my "fancy" FPR-- which went BAD on me at the onset of cold weather here last November-- you might want to VERIFY that it is in fact your FP and not the FPR that is causing your woes. I was struggling to run with only 11psi when I finally broke down and rigged-up my fuel-pressure hose & remote gauge. I was heartbroken. All that grief pulling the tank and the Walbro let me down...? But, the actual culprit was a collapsed FPR diaphragm. As soon as I switched-in the old mechanically adjustable FPR I used on my T-Trans Am (never throw away your "obsolete" performance parts!) we were back in business... never a speck of trouble since then! Check out your start-up/idle pressure (no need to start the engine) by CLAMPING THE FUEL-RETURN LINE with a pair of needle-nosed vise-grips or something equally positive-gripping. If you still get the same low readings IT IS THE PUMP. But, if the pressure goes north of 40psi, you've just saved yourself a lot of money and/or acrobatic labor! Good luck, Dennis O. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- Original Message ----- From: Jeffrey Smirz To: syty at syty.org Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 8:03 PM Subject: [Syty] Fuel Pump The Ty's OEM pump is down to about 25 psi. The poor thing barely runs. I'm pumping and pulling the tank tomorrow. There was a lot of talk about Walbros in Feb. '05, but I'm not planning on racing, except the occasional stoplight Grand Prix. I'm leaning towards a Bosch replacement pump. Advice is welcome.....particularly if it comes from the one and only serovilo, grtyphoon, bullyhart, merk1993 or any of the other great contributors. Jeff Syclone #950 (totaled in '99) Syclone #1654 (formerly Chris Pearson's) Typhoon #1165 Indy, IN ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Syty mailing list Syty at syty.org http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061023/687fe7ab/attachment-0001.html From seravilo at netzero.net Mon Oct 23 14:07:42 2006 From: seravilo at netzero.net (DOlivares) Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 14:07:42 -0500 Subject: [Syty] rust References: Message-ID: <00ce01c6f6d6$85e43e80$63f85a42@coresys1> You guys SLAY me! Any good chemist (I'm merely a physicist/engineer/attorney who got better grades in chemistry) knows that NITRIC acid is "optimized" for etching ferro-metals and copper as hydrofluoric acid is used to etch glass. So-called "strong" acids refers to their relative pH at standardized concentrations... but NOT to their universal reactivity with all substances, especially concrete. If I had any rust-stains on my driveway I'd go out and buy a flask of HNO3 and that Flit or Whisk or Shout or Whatever and PROVE that my solution would be as... if not more... effective and at a lower cost and with a less deleterious impact on the local environment. But who would listen...? Have it your way(s), Dr. D.O. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- Original Message ----- From: Jeffrey Smirz To: ken rose jr Cc: syty at syty.org Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2006 7:26 AM Subject: Re: [Syty] rust It's actually Whink, which is a dilute solution of hydrofluoric acid. It should perform about the same as Larry Brown's muriatic acid and Dennis Olivares' nitric acid. All 3 of these are chemically considered 'strong' acids, which is why they etch concrete as well as 'remove' rust quicker. 'Weak' acids, such as acetic (vinegar) and carbonic (generated from baking soda) will also work, but will take a lot longer and may not remove some forms of rust. ("Rust" is a common term for various iron oxides.) Iron Out is sodium hydrosulfite, which generates a "middle" strength acid when dissolved in water. All these acids 'remove' rust by converting it to water soluble salts. For example, the muriatic acid converts iron oxides (red-brown and insoluble) to iron chloride (colorless and soluble). If I was as good a mechanic as I am a chemist, my Typhoon would be running now! I'm still fussing with that fuel pump problem I mentioned on the list way back in April! Jeff On Oct 11, 2006, at 7:43 PM, ken rose jr wrote: Has anyone tried Wink.. Its a liquid rust remover. I use it to get the rust out of my toilet and it works better than iron out and other brands that I tried! I just squirt it on the rust stains and they vanish before your eyes like magic. The stuff is hard to find..kmart used to have it but i have not looked there lately.. Comes in a small bottle and costs around $4.00. Last time I bought it at the hardware store..Ace hardware I believe. Never tried it on concrete but I plan to cause my plow left some rust on my driveway. Hope this helps!!! _______________________________________________ Syty mailing list Syty at syty.org http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Syty mailing list Syty at syty.org http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061023/a2903f5f/attachment-0001.html From Bullyhart at aol.com Mon Oct 23 15:27:00 2006 From: Bullyhart at aol.com (Bullyhart at aol.com) Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 16:27:00 EDT Subject: [Syty] rust Message-ID: <3f5.da2e3f4.326e7f94@aol.com> WHAT?!?!! And all this time I was under the misconception you had a PhD in Coloproctology... In a message dated 10/23/2006 2:09:48 P.M. Central Standard Time, seravilo at netzero.net writes: You guys SLAY me! Any good chemist (I'm merely a physicist/engineer/attorney who got better grades in chemistry) knows that NITRIC acid is "optimized" for etching ferro-metals and copper as hydrofluoric acid is used to etch glass. So-called "strong" acids refers to their relative pH at standardized concentrations... but NOT to their universal reactivity with all substances, especially concrete. If I had any rust-stains on my driveway I'd go out and buy a flask of HNO3 and that Flit or Whisk or Shout or Whatever and PROVE that my solution would be as... if not more... effective and at a lower cost and with a less deleterious impact on the local environment. But who would listen...? Have it your way(s), Dr. D.O. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061023/965b1a3e/attachment-0001.html From seravilo at netzero.net Mon Oct 23 15:31:57 2006 From: seravilo at netzero.net (DOlivares) Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 15:31:57 -0500 Subject: [Syty] rust References: <3f5.da2e3f4.326e7f94@aol.com> Message-ID: <00ee01c6f6e2$4a9972d0$63f85a42@coresys1> Still at it eh, laughing boy! Better the credential than the OBJECT of said credential, as you appear to be!! Remind me never to give you an exam ...with anything less than a harpoon! Dr. Colopro -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- Original Message ----- From: Bullyhart at aol.com To: seravilo at netzero.net ; jsmirz at comcast.net ; rosekendeb at hotmail.com Cc: syty at syty.org Sent: Monday, October 23, 2006 3:27 PM Subject: Re: [Syty] rust WHAT?!?!! And all this time I was under the misconception you had a PhD in Coloproctology... In a message dated 10/23/2006 2:09:48 P.M. Central Standard Time, seravilo at netzero.net writes: You guys SLAY me! Any good chemist (I'm merely a physicist/engineer/attorney who got better grades in chemistry) knows that NITRIC acid is "optimized" for etching ferro-metals and copper as hydrofluoric acid is used to etch glass. So-called "strong" acids refers to their relative pH at standardized concentrations... but NOT to their universal reactivity with all substances, especially concrete. If I had any rust-stains on my driveway I'd go out and buy a flask of HNO3 and that Flit or Whisk or Shout or Whatever and PROVE that my solution would be as... if not more... effective and at a lower cost and with a less deleterious impact on the local environment. But who would listen...? Have it your way(s), Dr. D.O. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061023/e2cbe884/attachment-0001.html From turbodig at yahoo.com Tue Oct 24 09:47:36 2006 From: turbodig at yahoo.com (Dig) Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 07:47:36 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 Message-ID: <20061024144736.27720.qmail@web35302.mail.mud.yahoo.com> If you're looking for just a good "replacement" pump, the 190 l/hr walbro is a good one: http://www.apeusa.com/ FPG001 Can't beat the price, and the quality exceeds the stockers. Ron's a Sy/Ty "old-timer" too, so he understands the application. Later, Dig turbodig[at]yahoo.com ----- Original Message ----- From: Jeffrey Smirz To: syty at syty.org Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 8:03 PM Subject: [Syty] Fuel Pump The Ty's OEM pump is down to about 25 psi. The poor thing barely runs. I'm pumping and pulling the tank tomorrow. There was a lot of talk about Walbros in Feb. '05, but I'm not planning on racing, except the occasional stoplight Grand Prix. I'm leaning towards a Bosch replacement pump. Advice is welcome.....particularly if it comes from the one and only serovilo, grtyphoon, bullyhart, merk1993 or any of the other great contributors. Jeff Syclone #950 (totaled in '99) Syclone #1654 (formerly Chris Pearson's) Typhoon #1165 Indy, IN ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- From dourtyb at got-boost.net Tue Oct 24 10:06:43 2006 From: dourtyb at got-boost.net (Brian Dourty) Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 10:06:43 -0500 Subject: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 In-Reply-To: <20061024144736.27720.qmail@web35302.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <20061024144736.27720.qmail@web35302.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <453E2C03.20805@got-boost.net> While we are talking about fuel pumps...how hard would it be to fab up a double pumper setup? What would be needed? Stock sending unit. 2 255 l/hr walbro's Some sort of Y adapter to hook both pumps up to stock sending unit? Would it NEED to be billit? Relay to kick second pump on Anyone got a parts list from the old ATR double pumper? Brian Dig wrote: > If you're looking for just a good "replacement" pump, the 190 l/hr walbro is a good one: > > http://www.apeusa.com/ > > FPG001 > > Can't beat the price, and the quality exceeds the stockers. > > Ron's a Sy/Ty "old-timer" too, so he understands the application. > > Later, > > Dig > turbodig[at]yahoo.com > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Jeffrey Smirz > To: syty at syty.org > Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 8:03 PM > Subject: [Syty] Fuel Pump > > > The Ty's OEM pump is down to about 25 psi. The poor thing barely runs. I'm pumping and pulling the tank tomorrow. There was a lot of talk about Walbros in Feb. '05, but I'm not planning on racing, except the occasional stoplight Grand Prix. I'm leaning towards a Bosch replacement pump. Advice is welcome.....particularly if it comes from the one and only serovilo, grtyphoon, bullyhart, merk1993 or any of the other great contributors. > > Jeff > Syclone #950 (totaled in '99) > Syclone #1654 (formerly Chris Pearson's) > Typhoon #1165 > Indy, IN > > > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > _______________________________________________ > Syty mailing list > Syty at syty.org > http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty > From Mr2879sy at aol.com Tue Oct 24 10:14:00 2006 From: Mr2879sy at aol.com (Mr2879sy at aol.com) Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 11:14:00 EDT Subject: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 (Fuel Pump) Message-ID: <3cb.83de80d.326f87b8@aol.com> Oddly enough it wouldn't be that hard - i have this exact set up built and i'm sellnig it cheap marty-mj - www.syborgtwinturbo.com www.syborgtwinturbo.com/gallery In a message dated 10/24/2006 10:07:35 AM Central Daylight Time, dourtyb at got-boost.net writes: > While we are talking about fuel pumps...how hard would it be to fab up a > double pumper setup? What would be needed? > > Stock sending unit. > 2 255 l/hr walbro's > Some sort of Y adapter to hook both pumps up to stock sending unit? > Would it NEED to be billit? > Relay to kick second pump on > > Anyone got a parts list from the old ATR double pumper? > > Brian -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061024/b4580a91/attachment-0001.html From rilawoffice at msn.com Tue Oct 24 10:23:41 2006 From: rilawoffice at msn.com (George Prescott) Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 11:23:41 -0400 Subject: [Syty] RE: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 4 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061024/175ac183/attachment-0001.html From tydriver at turbols6.com Tue Oct 24 10:40:13 2006 From: tydriver at turbols6.com (tydriver@gmail.com) Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 11:40:13 -0400 Subject: [Syty] RE: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 4 References: Message-ID: <001d01c6f782$b32f2ba0$6401a8c0@laptop> Dunno about you George, but I think in DO's case his real title is "BLOWHARD" The rest is a smoke screen.. He's probably the kid that got shoved in a locker in grade school, maybe him and Ed Hess oughta get together.. Have a good day.. Todd ----- Original Message ----- From: George Prescott To: syty at syty.org Cc: rilawoffice at msn.com Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 11:23 AM Subject: [Syty] RE: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 4 Here I am , a physicist/engineer/attorney and car guy. I thought I was all alone. George Prescott ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: syty-request at syty.org Reply-To: syty at syty.org To: syty at syty.org Subject: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 4 Date: 24 Oct 2006 08:08:56 -0700 >Send Syty mailing list submissions to > syty at syty.org > >To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty >or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > syty-request at syty.org > >You can reach the person managing the list at > syty-owner at syty.org > >When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific >than "Re: Contents of Syty digest..." > > >Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: rust (DOlivares) > 2. Re: rust (Bullyhart at aol.com) > 3. Re: rust (DOlivares) > 4. Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 (Dig) > 5. Re: Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 (Brian Dourty) > > >---------------------------------------------------------------------- > >Message: 1 >Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 14:07:42 -0500 >From: "DOlivares" >Subject: Re: [Syty] rust >To: "Jeffrey Smirz" , "ken rose jr" > >Cc: SYTY >Message-ID: <00ce01c6f6d6$85e43e80$63f85a42 at coresys1> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > >You guys SLAY me! > >Any good chemist (I'm merely a physicist/engineer/attorney who got better grades in chemistry) knows that NITRIC acid is "optimized" for etching ferro-metals and copper as hydrofluoric acid is used to etch glass. So-called "strong" acids refers to their relative pH at standardized concentrations... but NOT to their universal reactivity with all substances, especially concrete. > >If I had any rust-stains on my driveway I'd go out and buy a flask of HNO3 and that Flit or Whisk or Shout or Whatever and PROVE that my solution would be as... if not more... effective and at a lower cost and with a less deleterious impact on the local environment. > >But who would listen...? > >Have it your way(s), > >Dr. D.O. >-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > >----- Original Message ----- >From: Jeffrey Smirz >To: ken rose jr >Cc: syty at syty.org >Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2006 7:26 AM >Subject: Re: [Syty] rust > > >It's actually Whink, which is a dilute solution of hydrofluoric acid. It should perform about the same as Larry Brown's muriatic acid and Dennis Olivares' nitric acid. All 3 of these are chemically considered 'strong' acids, which is why they etch concrete as well as 'remove' rust quicker. 'Weak' acids, such as acetic (vinegar) and carbonic (generated from baking soda) will also work, but will take a lot longer and may not remove some forms of rust. ("Rust" is a common term for various iron oxides.) > > >Iron Out is sodium hydrosulfite, which generates a "middle" strength acid when dissolved in water. > > >All these acids 'remove' rust by converting it to water soluble salts. For example, the muriatic acid converts iron oxides (red-brown and insoluble) to iron chloride (colorless and soluble). > > >If I was as good a mechanic as I am a chemist, my Typhoon would be running now! I'm still fussing with that fuel pump problem I mentioned on the list way back in April! > >Jeff > > > > > > >On Oct 11, 2006, at 7:43 PM, ken rose jr wrote: > > > Has anyone tried Wink.. Its a liquid rust remover. I use it to get the rust out of my toilet and it works better than iron out and other brands that I tried! I just squirt it on the rust stains and they vanish before your eyes like magic. The stuff is hard to find..kmart used to have it but i have not looked there lately.. Comes in a small bottle and costs around $4.00. Last time I bought it at the hardware store..Ace hardware I believe. Never tried it on concrete but I plan to cause my plow left some rust on my driveway. Hope this helps!!! > _______________________________________________ > Syty mailing list > Syty at syty.org > http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty > > > > >-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > >_______________________________________________ >Syty mailing list >Syty at syty.org >http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty >-------------- next part -------------- >An HTML attachment was scrubbed... >URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061023/a2903f5f/attachment-0001.htm > >------------------------------ > >Message: 2 >Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 16:27:00 EDT >From: Bullyhart at aol.com >Subject: Re: [Syty] rust >To: seravilo at netzero.net, jsmirz at comcast.net, rosekendeb at hotmail.com >Cc: syty at syty.org >Message-ID: <3f5.da2e3f4.326e7f94 at aol.com> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > >WHAT?!?!! And all this time I was under the misconception you had a PhD in >Coloproctology... > > >In a message dated 10/23/2006 2:09:48 P.M. Central Standard Time, >seravilo at netzero.net writes: > >You guys SLAY me! > >Any good chemist (I'm merely a physicist/engineer/attorney who got better >grades in chemistry) knows that NITRIC acid is "optimized" for etching >ferro-metals and copper as hydrofluoric acid is used to etch glass. So-called >"strong" acids refers to their relative pH at standardized concentrations... but >NOT to their universal reactivity with all substances, especially concrete. > >If I had any rust-stains on my driveway I'd go out and buy a flask of HNO3 >and that Flit or Whisk or Shout or Whatever and PROVE that my solution would >be as... if not more... effective and at a lower cost and with a less >deleterious impact on the local environment. > >But who would listen...? > >Have it your way(s), > >Dr. D.O. > > > > >-------------- next part -------------- >An HTML attachment was scrubbed... >URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061023/965b1a3e/attachment-0001.htm > >------------------------------ > >Message: 3 >Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 15:31:57 -0500 >From: "DOlivares" >Subject: Re: [Syty] rust >To: , , > >Cc: syty at syty.org >Message-ID: <00ee01c6f6e2$4a9972d0$63f85a42 at coresys1> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > >Still at it eh, laughing boy! > >Better the credential than the OBJECT of said credential, as you appear to be!! > >Remind me never to give you an exam ...with anything less than a harpoon! > >Dr. Colopro >-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > >----- Original Message ----- >From: Bullyhart at aol.com >To: seravilo at netzero.net ; jsmirz at comcast.net ; rosekendeb at hotmail.com >Cc: syty at syty.org >Sent: Monday, October 23, 2006 3:27 PM >Subject: Re: [Syty] rust > > >WHAT?!?!! And all this time I was under the misconception you had a PhD in Coloproctology... > > >In a message dated 10/23/2006 2:09:48 P.M. Central Standard Time, seravilo at netzero.net writes: > You guys SLAY me! > > Any good chemist (I'm merely a physicist/engineer/attorney who got better grades in chemistry) knows that NITRIC acid is "optimized" for etching ferro-metals and copper as hydrofluoric acid is used to etch glass. So-called "strong" acids refers to their relative pH at standardized concentrations... but NOT to their universal reactivity with all substances, especially concrete. > > If I had any rust-stains on my driveway I'd go out and buy a flask of HNO3 and that Flit or Whisk or Shout or Whatever and PROVE that my solution would be as... if not more... effective and at a lower cost and with a less deleterious impact on the local environment. > > But who would listen...? > > Have it your way(s), > > Dr. D.O. >-------------- next part -------------- >An HTML attachment was scrubbed... >URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061023/e2cbe884/attachment-0001.htm > >------------------------------ > >Message: 4 >Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 07:47:36 -0700 (PDT) >From: Dig >Subject: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 >To: syty at syty.org >Message-ID: <20061024144736.27720.qmail at web35302.mail.mud.yahoo.com> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ascii > > >If you're looking for just a good "replacement" pump, the 190 l/hr walbro is a good one: > >http://www.apeusa.com/ > >FPG001 > >Can't beat the price, and the quality exceeds the stockers. > >Ron's a Sy/Ty "old-timer" too, so he understands the application. > >Later, > >Dig >turbodig[at]yahoo.com > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Jeffrey Smirz > To: syty at syty.org > Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 8:03 PM > Subject: [Syty] Fuel Pump > > > The Ty's OEM pump is down to about 25 psi. The poor thing barely runs. I'm pumping and pulling the tank tomorrow. There was a lot of talk about Walbros in Feb. '05, but I'm not planning on racing, except the occasional stoplight Grand Prix. I'm leaning towards a Bosch replacement pump. Advice is welcome.....particularly if it comes from the one and only serovilo, grtyphoon, bullyhart, merk1993 or any of the other great contributors. > > Jeff > Syclone #950 (totaled in '99) > Syclone #1654 (formerly Chris Pearson's) > Typhoon #1165 > Indy, IN > > > > > >---------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > > >------------------------------ > >Message: 5 >Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 10:06:43 -0500 >From: Brian Dourty >Subject: Re: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 >To: Dig >Cc: syty at syty.org >Message-ID: <453E2C03.20805 at got-boost.net> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed > >While we are talking about fuel pumps...how hard would it be to fab up a >double pumper setup? What would be needed? > >Stock sending unit. >2 255 l/hr walbro's >Some sort of Y adapter to hook both pumps up to stock sending unit? >Would it NEED to be billit? >Relay to kick second pump on > >Anyone got a parts list from the old ATR double pumper? > >Brian > >Dig wrote: > > If you're looking for just a good "replacement" pump, the 190 l/hr walbro is a good one: > > > > http://www.apeusa.com/ > > > > FPG001 > > > > Can't beat the price, and the quality exceeds the stockers. > > > > Ron's a Sy/Ty "old-timer" too, so he understands the application. > > > > Later, > > > > Dig > > turbodig[at]yahoo.com > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: Jeffrey Smirz > > To: syty at syty.org > > Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 8:03 PM > > Subject: [Syty] Fuel Pump > > > > > > The Ty's OEM pump is down to about 25 psi. The poor thing barely runs. I'm pumping and pulling the tank tomorrow. There was a lot of talk about Walbros in Feb. '05, but I'm not planning on racing, except the occasional stoplight Grand Prix. I'm leaning towards a Bosch replacement pump. Advice is welcome.....particularly if it comes from the one and only serovilo, grtyphoon, bullyhart, merk1993 or any of the other great contributors. > > > > Jeff > > Syclone #950 (totaled in '99) > > Syclone #1654 (formerly Chris Pearson's) > > Typhoon #1165 > > Indy, IN > > > > > > > > > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Syty mailing list > > Syty at syty.org > > http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty > > > > > >------------------------------ > >_______________________________________________ >Syty mailing list >Syty at syty.org >http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty > > >End of Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 4 >*********************************** ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ Syty mailing list Syty at syty.org http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061024/d7971ddd/attachment-0001.html From tydriver at turbols6.com Tue Oct 24 10:49:46 2006 From: tydriver at turbols6.com (tydriver@gmail.com) Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 11:49:46 -0400 Subject: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 References: <20061024144736.27720.qmail@web35302.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <453E2C03.20805@got-boost.net> Message-ID: <002701c6f784$0a0f0ca0$6401a8c0@laptop> I am not 100 % on the wiring but I know that Nolan did this setup before on a truck or two he was building..Personally I dont like the idea of running a hobbs type switch to kick the 2nd pump on (like the ATR setup) but thats just me. I would be interested in seeing how many problems you'd run into by running them both continuously. The setup that Nolan made had a Y adapter from the 2 pumps into the single feed line. I had some pictures of it around here somewhere but lost it with the most recent HD crash otherwise I'd forward them.. I checked canadiansyty.com and its no longer up anymore, so I dont know what happened to the information.. Maybe email Nolan directly ?? I would most definitely run a thicker gauge wire off the alternator back there with a relay of some sort to turn the pumps on when they'd normally run (similar to the boost-a-pump/or racetronix setup), using the stock fuel pump wire to trigger the relay. HTH, Todd ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brian Dourty" To: "Dig" Cc: Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 11:06 AM Subject: Re: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 > While we are talking about fuel pumps...how hard would it be to fab up a > double pumper setup? What would be needed? > > Stock sending unit. > 2 255 l/hr walbro's > Some sort of Y adapter to hook both pumps up to stock sending unit? Would > it NEED to be billit? > Relay to kick second pump on > > Anyone got a parts list from the old ATR double pumper? > > Brian > > Dig wrote: >> If you're looking for just a good "replacement" pump, the 190 l/hr walbro >> is a good one: >> >> http://www.apeusa.com/ >> >> FPG001 >> >> Can't beat the price, and the quality exceeds the stockers. >> >> Ron's a Sy/Ty "old-timer" too, so he understands the application. >> >> Later, >> >> Dig >> turbodig[at]yahoo.com >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: Jeffrey Smirz >> To: syty at syty.org >> Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 8:03 PM >> Subject: [Syty] Fuel Pump >> >> >> The Ty's OEM pump is down to about 25 psi. The poor thing barely >> runs. I'm pumping and pulling the tank tomorrow. There was a lot of >> talk about Walbros in Feb. '05, but I'm not planning on racing, except >> the occasional stoplight Grand Prix. I'm leaning towards a Bosch >> replacement pump. Advice is welcome.....particularly if it comes from >> the one and only serovilo, grtyphoon, bullyhart, merk1993 or any of the >> other great contributors. >> >> Jeff >> Syclone #950 (totaled in '99) >> Syclone #1654 (formerly Chris Pearson's) >> Typhoon #1165 >> Indy, IN >> >> >> >> >> >> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Syty mailing list >> Syty at syty.org >> http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty >> > > _______________________________________________ > Syty mailing list > Syty at syty.org > http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty > From turbodig at yahoo.com Tue Oct 24 11:18:35 2006 From: turbodig at yahoo.com (Dig) Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 09:18:35 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 Message-ID: <20061024161835.8755.qmail@web35305.mail.mud.yahoo.com> The y adapter was always the "expensive" part of the deal. Wouldn't have to be billet... just something that would fit in there, and wouldn't corrode in an alcohol environment. (read: anodized, or stainless, or zinc-coated) The thing that drove the billet "y" was the form-factor issue. If a guy were to discard everything below the plate that mounts to the top of the tank, you'd be free of that restriction. You'd have to fab your own holder from the plate to the pumps (a bent piece of bar stock), and you have to stay within the total length dimension of the stock setup (or reasonably close... within 1/2" or so) Here's a few AN "Y" adapters: http://www.magnafuel.com/products/accessories/Y-fittings/index.htm The hot steup would be to discard the tube fittings at the plate for a set of AN bulkheads, but that would add to the cost. Twin HP 255s could feed *lots* of HP at a fairly reasonable cost (<$300, if you use your old parts are are good at scrounging). The electronics are pretty easy... 30A bosch relay, wire, and a hobbs switch. Maybe we can goad Ron in to offering a parts kit.... Later, Dig ----- Original Message ---- From: Brian Dourty To: Dig Cc: syty at syty.org Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 10:06:43 AM Subject: Re: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 While we are talking about fuel pumps...how hard would it be to fab up a double pumper setup? What would be needed? Stock sending unit. 2 255 l/hr walbro's Some sort of Y adapter to hook both pumps up to stock sending unit? Would it NEED to be billit? Relay to kick second pump on Anyone got a parts list from the old ATR double pumper? Brian Dig wrote: From TurboV6 at telusplanet.net Tue Oct 24 11:34:12 2006 From: TurboV6 at telusplanet.net (Nolan Nykyforuk) Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 10:34:12 -0600 Subject: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 In-Reply-To: <20061024161835.8755.qmail@web35305.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20061024163408.CED8VGWK2H@priv-edtnaa06.telusplanet.net> There are pic here of the home made double pumper set up we put on trucks. http://gallery.jsmanufacturing.com/main.php?g2_view=core.ShowItem&g2_itemId= 5678 The pumps are wired to run all the time we just upgrade to a -6 return line so the fuel pressure can be controlled. We just used a 3/8" brass TEE from the local parts store HELP section. Simple and easy and cheap.. But if you do not plan to make more that 750hp we have tested the single intake 255 walbro with a msd fuel pump booster and made 726hp on the engine dyno with 84lbs injectors. Nolan -----Original Message----- From: syty-bounces at syty.org [mailto:syty-bounces at syty.org] On Behalf Of Dig Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 10:19 AM To: Brian Dourty Cc: syty at syty.org Subject: Re: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 The y adapter was always the "expensive" part of the deal. Wouldn't have to be billet... just something that would fit in there, and wouldn't corrode in an alcohol environment. (read: anodized, or stainless, or zinc-coated) The thing that drove the billet "y" was the form-factor issue. If a guy were to discard everything below the plate that mounts to the top of the tank, you'd be free of that restriction. You'd have to fab your own holder from the plate to the pumps (a bent piece of bar stock), and you have to stay within the total length dimension of the stock setup (or reasonably close... within 1/2" or so) Here's a few AN "Y" adapters: http://www.magnafuel.com/products/accessories/Y-fittings/index.htm The hot steup would be to discard the tube fittings at the plate for a set of AN bulkheads, but that would add to the cost. Twin HP 255s could feed *lots* of HP at a fairly reasonable cost (<$300, if you use your old parts are are good at scrounging). The electronics are pretty easy... 30A bosch relay, wire, and a hobbs switch. Maybe we can goad Ron in to offering a parts kit.... Later, Dig ----- Original Message ---- From: Brian Dourty To: Dig Cc: syty at syty.org Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 10:06:43 AM Subject: Re: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 While we are talking about fuel pumps...how hard would it be to fab up a double pumper setup? What would be needed? Stock sending unit. 2 255 l/hr walbro's Some sort of Y adapter to hook both pumps up to stock sending unit? Would it NEED to be billit? Relay to kick second pump on Anyone got a parts list from the old ATR double pumper? Brian Dig wrote: _______________________________________________ Syty mailing list Syty at syty.org http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty From seravilo at netzero.net Tue Oct 24 14:31:48 2006 From: seravilo at netzero.net (DOlivares) Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 14:31:48 -0500 Subject: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 References: <20061024144736.27720.qmail@web35302.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <453E2C03.20805@got-boost.net> Message-ID: <002f01c6f7a3$0d846c30$10f46942@coresys1> Space, ...especially around the floor of the tank is TIGHT, and it would take quite an imagination to rig up a pick-up plenum in lieu of trying to configure 2 filter-socks at the same height/level of gas so that neither would constrain the float-arm or suck air at anywhere less than a quarter-tank of fuel. But, my chief concern-- especially if one is contemplating parallel "super" pumps-- is that the GAUGE OF THE WIRE from the FP Relay all the way to the in-tank units would have to be beefed-up a couple of numbers to both ensure delivery of full voltage to the gerotors and prevent frying the harness... particularly when one pump runs dry for anything past 20 seconds. At some point, the stock architecture simply won't support gas-guzzling like a top-fuel dragster! Better to do a complete rework with a new tank, lines, wire-feed, and firehose-pump as they do on Horsepower TV.... Who needs that much gas for the street anyway? ...especially with the specter of $3/gal lurking at the horizon! Big Daddy D.O. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- Original Message ----- From: Brian Dourty To: Dig Cc: syty at syty.org Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 10:06 AM Subject: Re: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 While we are talking about fuel pumps...how hard would it be to fab up a double pumper setup? What would be needed? Stock sending unit. 2 255 l/hr walbro's Some sort of Y adapter to hook both pumps up to stock sending unit? Would it NEED to be billit? Relay to kick second pump on Anyone got a parts list from the old ATR double pumper? Brian Dig wrote: > If you're looking for just a good "replacement" pump, the 190 l/hr walbro is a good one: > > http://www.apeusa.com/ > > FPG001 > > Can't beat the price, and the quality exceeds the stockers. > > Ron's a Sy/Ty "old-timer" too, so he understands the application. > > Later, > > Dig > turbodig[at]yahoo.com > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Jeffrey Smirz > To: syty at syty.org > Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 8:03 PM > Subject: [Syty] Fuel Pump > > > The Ty's OEM pump is down to about 25 psi. The poor thing barely runs. I'm pumping and pulling the tank tomorrow. There was a lot of talk about Walbros in Feb. '05, but I'm not planning on racing, except the occasional stoplight Grand Prix. I'm leaning towards a Bosch replacement pump. Advice is welcome.....particularly if it comes from the one and only serovilo, grtyphoon, bullyhart, merk1993 or any of the other great contributors. > > Jeff > Syclone #950 (totaled in '99) > Syclone #1654 (formerly Chris Pearson's) > Typhoon #1165 > Indy, IN > > > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > _______________________________________________ > Syty mailing list > Syty at syty.org > http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty > _______________________________________________ Syty mailing list Syty at syty.org http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061024/b33d0d2b/attachment-0001.html From seravilo at netzero.net Tue Oct 24 14:38:51 2006 From: seravilo at netzero.net (DOlivares) Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 14:38:51 -0500 Subject: [Syty] RE: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 4 References: <001d01c6f782$b32f2ba0$6401a8c0@laptop> Message-ID: <004801c6f7a4$0977c820$10f46942@coresys1> Bravely spoken! ...especially from a couple of punks whose daddies I used to extract lunch money from on a habitual basis! The only "smokescreen" you'll get from me is the fog I leave you in at the stoplight as I shred my slicks in yo face(s)!! Happy Motoring... 'til I take your pinkslip! -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- Original Message ----- From: tydriver at gmail.com To: George Prescott Cc: syty at syty.org Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 10:40 AM Subject: Re: [Syty] RE: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 4 Dunno about you George, but I think in DO's case his real title is "BLOWHARD" The rest is a smoke screen.. He's probably the kid that got shoved in a locker in grade school, maybe him and Ed Hess oughta get together.. Have a good day.. Todd ----- Original Message ----- From: George Prescott To: syty at syty.org Cc: rilawoffice at msn.com Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 11:23 AM Subject: [Syty] RE: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 4 Here I am , a physicist/engineer/attorney and car guy. I thought I was all alone. George Prescott ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: syty-request at syty.org Reply-To: syty at syty.org To: syty at syty.org Subject: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 4 Date: 24 Oct 2006 08:08:56 -0700 >Send Syty mailing list submissions to > syty at syty.org > >To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty >or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > syty-request at syty.org > >You can reach the person managing the list at > syty-owner at syty.org > >When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific >than "Re: Contents of Syty digest..." > > >Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: rust (DOlivares) > 2. Re: rust (Bullyhart at aol.com) > 3. Re: rust (DOlivares) > 4. Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 (Dig) > 5. Re: Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 (Brian Dourty) > > >---------------------------------------------------------------------- > >Message: 1 >Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 14:07:42 -0500 >From: "DOlivares" >Subject: Re: [Syty] rust >To: "Jeffrey Smirz" , "ken rose jr" > >Cc: SYTY >Message-ID: <00ce01c6f6d6$85e43e80$63f85a42 at coresys1> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > >You guys SLAY me! > >Any good chemist (I'm merely a physicist/engineer/attorney who got better grades in chemistry) knows that NITRIC acid is "optimized" for etching ferro-metals and copper as hydrofluoric acid is used to etch glass. So-called "strong" acids refers to their relative pH at standardized concentrations... but NOT to their universal reactivity with all substances, especially concrete. > >If I had any rust-stains on my driveway I'd go out and buy a flask of HNO3 and that Flit or Whisk or Shout or Whatever and PROVE that my solution would be as... if not more... effective and at a lower cost and with a less deleterious impact on the local environment. > >But who would listen...? > >Have it your way(s), > >Dr. D.O. >-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > >----- Original Message ----- >From: Jeffrey Smirz >To: ken rose jr >Cc: syty at syty.org >Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2006 7:26 AM >Subject: Re: [Syty] rust > > >It's actually Whink, which is a dilute solution of hydrofluoric acid. It should perform about the same as Larry Brown's muriatic acid and Dennis Olivares' nitric acid. All 3 of these are chemically considered 'strong' acids, which is why they etch concrete as well as 'remove' rust quicker. 'Weak' acids, such as acetic (vinegar) and carbonic (generated from baking soda) will also work, but will take a lot longer and may not remove some forms of rust. ("Rust" is a common term for various iron oxides.) > > >Iron Out is sodium hydrosulfite, which generates a "middle" strength acid when dissolved in water. > > >All these acids 'remove' rust by converting it to water soluble salts. For example, the muriatic acid converts iron oxides (red-brown and insoluble) to iron chloride (colorless and soluble). > > >If I was as good a mechanic as I am a chemist, my Typhoon would be running now! I'm still fussing with that fuel pump problem I mentioned on the list way back in April! > >Jeff > > > > > > >On Oct 11, 2006, at 7:43 PM, ken rose jr wrote: > > > Has anyone tried Wink.. Its a liquid rust remover. I use it to get the rust out of my toilet and it works better than iron out and other brands that I tried! I just squirt it on the rust stains and they vanish before your eyes like magic. The stuff is hard to find..kmart used to have it but i have not looked there lately.. Comes in a small bottle and costs around $4.00. Last time I bought it at the hardware store..Ace hardware I believe. Never tried it on concrete but I plan to cause my plow left some rust on my driveway. Hope this helps!!! > _______________________________________________ > Syty mailing list > Syty at syty.org > http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty > > > > >-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > >_______________________________________________ >Syty mailing list >Syty at syty.org >http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty >-------------- next part -------------- >An HTML attachment was scrubbed... >URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061023/a2903f5f/attachment-0001.htm > >------------------------------ > >Message: 2 >Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 16:27:00 EDT >From: Bullyhart at aol.com >Subject: Re: [Syty] rust >To: seravilo at netzero.net, jsmirz at comcast.net, rosekendeb at hotmail.com >Cc: syty at syty.org >Message-ID: <3f5.da2e3f4.326e7f94 at aol.com> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > >WHAT?!?!! And all this time I was under the misconception you had a PhD in >Coloproctology... > > >In a message dated 10/23/2006 2:09:48 P.M. Central Standard Time, >seravilo at netzero.net writes: > >You guys SLAY me! > >Any good chemist (I'm merely a physicist/engineer/attorney who got better >grades in chemistry) knows that NITRIC acid is "optimized" for etching >ferro-metals and copper as hydrofluoric acid is used to etch glass. So-called >"strong" acids refers to their relative pH at standardized concentrations... but >NOT to their universal reactivity with all substances, especially concrete. > >If I had any rust-stains on my driveway I'd go out and buy a flask of HNO3 >and that Flit or Whisk or Shout or Whatever and PROVE that my solution would >be as... if not more... effective and at a lower cost and with a less >deleterious impact on the local environment. > >But who would listen...? > >Have it your way(s), > >Dr. D.O. > > > > >-------------- next part -------------- >An HTML attachment was scrubbed... >URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061023/965b1a3e/attachment-0001.htm > >------------------------------ > >Message: 3 >Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 15:31:57 -0500 >From: "DOlivares" >Subject: Re: [Syty] rust >To: , , > >Cc: syty at syty.org >Message-ID: <00ee01c6f6e2$4a9972d0$63f85a42 at coresys1> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > >Still at it eh, laughing boy! > >Better the credential than the OBJECT of said credential, as you appear to be!! > >Remind me never to give you an exam ...with anything less than a harpoon! > >Dr. Colopro >-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > >----- Original Message ----- >From: Bullyhart at aol.com >To: seravilo at netzero.net ; jsmirz at comcast.net ; rosekendeb at hotmail.com >Cc: syty at syty.org >Sent: Monday, October 23, 2006 3:27 PM >Subject: Re: [Syty] rust > > >WHAT?!?!! And all this time I was under the misconception you had a PhD in Coloproctology... > > >In a message dated 10/23/2006 2:09:48 P.M. Central Standard Time, seravilo at netzero.net writes: > You guys SLAY me! > > Any good chemist (I'm merely a physicist/engineer/attorney who got better grades in chemistry) knows that NITRIC acid is "optimized" for etching ferro-metals and copper as hydrofluoric acid is used to etch glass. So-called "strong" acids refers to their relative pH at standardized concentrations... but NOT to their universal reactivity with all substances, especially concrete. > > If I had any rust-stains on my driveway I'd go out and buy a flask of HNO3 and that Flit or Whisk or Shout or Whatever and PROVE that my solution would be as... if not more... effective and at a lower cost and with a less deleterious impact on the local environment. > > But who would listen...? > > Have it your way(s), > > Dr. D.O. >-------------- next part -------------- >An HTML attachment was scrubbed... >URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061023/e2cbe884/attachment-0001.htm > >------------------------------ > >Message: 4 >Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 07:47:36 -0700 (PDT) >From: Dig >Subject: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 >To: syty at syty.org >Message-ID: <20061024144736.27720.qmail at web35302.mail.mud.yahoo.com> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ascii > > >If you're looking for just a good "replacement" pump, the 190 l/hr walbro is a good one: > >http://www.apeusa.com/ > >FPG001 > >Can't beat the price, and the quality exceeds the stockers. > >Ron's a Sy/Ty "old-timer" too, so he understands the application. > >Later, > >Dig >turbodig[at]yahoo.com > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Jeffrey Smirz > To: syty at syty.org > Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 8:03 PM > Subject: [Syty] Fuel Pump > > > The Ty's OEM pump is down to about 25 psi. The poor thing barely runs. I'm pumping and pulling the tank tomorrow. There was a lot of talk about Walbros in Feb. '05, but I'm not planning on racing, except the occasional stoplight Grand Prix. I'm leaning towards a Bosch replacement pump. Advice is welcome.....particularly if it comes from the one and only serovilo, grtyphoon, bullyhart, merk1993 or any of the other great contributors. > > Jeff > Syclone #950 (totaled in '99) > Syclone #1654 (formerly Chris Pearson's) > Typhoon #1165 > Indy, IN > > > > > >---------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > > >------------------------------ > >Message: 5 >Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 10:06:43 -0500 >From: Brian Dourty >Subject: Re: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 >To: Dig >Cc: syty at syty.org >Message-ID: <453E2C03.20805 at got-boost.net> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed > >While we are talking about fuel pumps...how hard would it be to fab up a >double pumper setup? What would be needed? > >Stock sending unit. >2 255 l/hr walbro's >Some sort of Y adapter to hook both pumps up to stock sending unit? >Would it NEED to be billit? >Relay to kick second pump on > >Anyone got a parts list from the old ATR double pumper? > >Brian > >Dig wrote: > > If you're looking for just a good "replacement" pump, the 190 l/hr walbro is a good one: > > > > http://www.apeusa.com/ > > > > FPG001 > > > > Can't beat the price, and the quality exceeds the stockers. > > > > Ron's a Sy/Ty "old-timer" too, so he understands the application. > > > > Later, > > > > Dig > > turbodig[at]yahoo.com > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: Jeffrey Smirz > > To: syty at syty.org > > Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 8:03 PM > > Subject: [Syty] Fuel Pump > > > > > > The Ty's OEM pump is down to about 25 psi. The poor thing barely runs. I'm pumping and pulling the tank tomorrow. There was a lot of talk about Walbros in Feb. '05, but I'm not planning on racing, except the occasional stoplight Grand Prix. I'm leaning towards a Bosch replacement pump. Advice is welcome.....particularly if it comes from the one and only serovilo, grtyphoon, bullyhart, merk1993 or any of the other great contributors. > > > > Jeff > > Syclone #950 (totaled in '99) > > Syclone #1654 (formerly Chris Pearson's) > > Typhoon #1165 > > Indy, IN > > > > > > > > > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Syty mailing list > > Syty at syty.org > > http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty > > > > > >------------------------------ > >_______________________________________________ >Syty mailing list >Syty at syty.org >http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty > > >End of Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 4 >*********************************** ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ Syty mailing list Syty at syty.org http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Syty mailing list Syty at syty.org http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061024/a90a14db/attachment-0001.html From seravilo at netzero.net Tue Oct 24 14:43:10 2006 From: seravilo at netzero.net (DOlivares) Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 14:43:10 -0500 Subject: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 References: <20061024144736.27720.qmail@web35302.mail.mud.yahoo.com><453E2C03.20805@got-boost.net> <002701c6f784$0a0f0ca0$6401a8c0@laptop> Message-ID: <004f01c6f7a4$a4947dd0$10f46942@coresys1> I would say, "Great minds think alike," except I think it may at last be time for me to get that LOBOTOMY I've been planning ever since high school.... Just wanna fit in, Dr. D.O. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- Original Message ----- From: tydriver at gmail.com To: Brian Dourty Cc: syty at syty.org Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 10:49 AM Subject: Re: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 I am not 100 % on the wiring but I know that Nolan did this setup before on a truck or two he was building..Personally I dont like the idea of running a hobbs type switch to kick the 2nd pump on (like the ATR setup) but thats just me. I would be interested in seeing how many problems you'd run into by running them both continuously. The setup that Nolan made had a Y adapter from the 2 pumps into the single feed line. I had some pictures of it around here somewhere but lost it with the most recent HD crash otherwise I'd forward them.. I checked canadiansyty.com and its no longer up anymore, so I dont know what happened to the information.. Maybe email Nolan directly ?? I would most definitely run a thicker gauge wire off the alternator back there with a relay of some sort to turn the pumps on when they'd normally run (similar to the boost-a-pump/or racetronix setup), using the stock fuel pump wire to trigger the relay. HTH, Todd ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brian Dourty" To: "Dig" Cc: Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 11:06 AM Subject: Re: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 > While we are talking about fuel pumps...how hard would it be to fab up a > double pumper setup? What would be needed? > > Stock sending unit. > 2 255 l/hr walbro's > Some sort of Y adapter to hook both pumps up to stock sending unit? Would > it NEED to be billit? > Relay to kick second pump on > > Anyone got a parts list from the old ATR double pumper? > > Brian > > Dig wrote: >> If you're looking for just a good "replacement" pump, the 190 l/hr walbro >> is a good one: >> >> http://www.apeusa.com/ >> >> FPG001 >> >> Can't beat the price, and the quality exceeds the stockers. >> >> Ron's a Sy/Ty "old-timer" too, so he understands the application. >> >> Later, >> >> Dig >> turbodig[at]yahoo.com >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: Jeffrey Smirz >> To: syty at syty.org >> Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 8:03 PM >> Subject: [Syty] Fuel Pump >> >> >> The Ty's OEM pump is down to about 25 psi. The poor thing barely >> runs. I'm pumping and pulling the tank tomorrow. There was a lot of >> talk about Walbros in Feb. '05, but I'm not planning on racing, except >> the occasional stoplight Grand Prix. I'm leaning towards a Bosch >> replacement pump. Advice is welcome.....particularly if it comes from >> the one and only serovilo, grtyphoon, bullyhart, merk1993 or any of the >> other great contributors. >> >> Jeff >> Syclone #950 (totaled in '99) >> Syclone #1654 (formerly Chris Pearson's) >> Typhoon #1165 >> Indy, IN >> >> >> >> >> >> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Syty mailing list >> Syty at syty.org >> http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty >> > > _______________________________________________ > Syty mailing list > Syty at syty.org > http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty > _______________________________________________ Syty mailing list Syty at syty.org http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061024/f16fabb6/attachment-0001.html From seravilo at netzero.net Tue Oct 24 14:52:07 2006 From: seravilo at netzero.net (DOlivares) Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 14:52:07 -0500 Subject: [Syty] RE: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 4 References: Message-ID: <007401c6f7a5$e4086de0$10f46942@coresys1> Hey, Mi Paisan! Welcome aboard the poopdeck of the Enterprise! With that background, ever practice patent law? Car guy...? Did you ever get NIASE-certified? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- Original Message ----- From: George Prescott To: syty at syty.org Cc: rilawoffice at msn.com Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 10:23 AM Subject: [Syty] RE: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 4 Here I am , a physicist/engineer/attorney and car guy. I thought I was all alone. George Prescott ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ From: syty-request at syty.org Reply-To: syty at syty.org To: syty at syty.org Subject: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 4 Date: 24 Oct 2006 08:08:56 -0700 >Send Syty mailing list submissions to > syty at syty.org > >To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty >or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > syty-request at syty.org > >You can reach the person managing the list at > syty-owner at syty.org > >When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific >than "Re: Contents of Syty digest..." > > >Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: rust (DOlivares) > 2. Re: rust (Bullyhart at aol.com) > 3. Re: rust (DOlivares) > 4. Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 (Dig) > 5. Re: Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 (Brian Dourty) > > >---------------------------------------------------------------------- > >Message: 1 >Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 14:07:42 -0500 >From: "DOlivares" >Subject: Re: [Syty] rust >To: "Jeffrey Smirz" , "ken rose jr" > >Cc: SYTY >Message-ID: <00ce01c6f6d6$85e43e80$63f85a42 at coresys1> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > >You guys SLAY me! > >Any good chemist (I'm merely a physicist/engineer/attorney who got better grades in chemistry) knows that NITRIC acid is "optimized" for etching ferro-metals and copper as hydrofluoric acid is used to etch glass. So-called "strong" acids refers to their relative pH at standardized concentrations... but NOT to their universal reactivity with all substances, especially concrete. > >If I had any rust-stains on my driveway I'd go out and buy a flask of HNO3 and that Flit or Whisk or Shout or Whatever and PROVE that my solution would be as... if not more... effective and at a lower cost and with a less deleterious impact on the local environment. > >But who would listen...? > >Have it your way(s), > >Dr. D.O. >-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > >----- Original Message ----- >From: Jeffrey Smirz >To: ken rose jr >Cc: syty at syty.org >Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2006 7:26 AM >Subject: Re: [Syty] rust > > >It's actually Whink, which is a dilute solution of hydrofluoric acid. It should perform about the same as Larry Brown's muriatic acid and Dennis Olivares' nitric acid. All 3 of these are chemically considered 'strong' acids, which is why they etch concrete as well as 'remove' rust quicker. 'Weak' acids, such as acetic (vinegar) and carbonic (generated from baking soda) will also work, but will take a lot longer and may not remove some forms of rust. ("Rust" is a common term for various iron oxides.) > > >Iron Out is sodium hydrosulfite, which generates a "middle" strength acid when dissolved in water. > > >All these acids 'remove' rust by converting it to water soluble salts. For example, the muriatic acid converts iron oxides (red-brown and insoluble) to iron chloride (colorless and soluble). > > >If I was as good a mechanic as I am a chemist, my Typhoon would be running now! I'm still fussing with that fuel pump problem I mentioned on the list way back in April! > >Jeff > > > > > > >On Oct 11, 2006, at 7:43 PM, ken rose jr wrote: > > > Has anyone tried Wink.. Its a liquid rust remover. I use it to get the rust out of my toilet and it works better than iron out and other brands that I tried! I just squirt it on the rust stains and they vanish before your eyes like magic. The stuff is hard to find..kmart used to have it but i have not looked there lately.. Comes in a small bottle and costs around $4.00. Last time I bought it at the hardware store..Ace hardware I believe. Never tried it on concrete but I plan to cause my plow left some rust on my driveway. Hope this helps!!! > _______________________________________________ > Syty mailing list > Syty at syty.org > http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty > > > > >-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > >_______________________________________________ >Syty mailing list >Syty at syty.org >http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty >-------------- next part -------------- >An HTML attachment was scrubbed... >URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061023/a2903f5f/attachment-0001.htm > >------------------------------ > >Message: 2 >Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 16:27:00 EDT >From: Bullyhart at aol.com >Subject: Re: [Syty] rust >To: seravilo at netzero.net, jsmirz at comcast.net, rosekendeb at hotmail.com >Cc: syty at syty.org >Message-ID: <3f5.da2e3f4.326e7f94 at aol.com> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > >WHAT?!?!! And all this time I was under the misconception you had a PhD in >Coloproctology... > > >In a message dated 10/23/2006 2:09:48 P.M. Central Standard Time, >seravilo at netzero.net writes: > >You guys SLAY me! > >Any good chemist (I'm merely a physicist/engineer/attorney who got better >grades in chemistry) knows that NITRIC acid is "optimized" for etching >ferro-metals and copper as hydrofluoric acid is used to etch glass. So-called >"strong" acids refers to their relative pH at standardized concentrations... but >NOT to their universal reactivity with all substances, especially concrete. > >If I had any rust-stains on my driveway I'd go out and buy a flask of HNO3 >and that Flit or Whisk or Shout or Whatever and PROVE that my solution would >be as... if not more... effective and at a lower cost and with a less >deleterious impact on the local environment. > >But who would listen...? > >Have it your way(s), > >Dr. D.O. > > > > >-------------- next part -------------- >An HTML attachment was scrubbed... >URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061023/965b1a3e/attachment-0001.htm > >------------------------------ > >Message: 3 >Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 15:31:57 -0500 >From: "DOlivares" >Subject: Re: [Syty] rust >To: , , > >Cc: syty at syty.org >Message-ID: <00ee01c6f6e2$4a9972d0$63f85a42 at coresys1> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > >Still at it eh, laughing boy! > >Better the credential than the OBJECT of said credential, as you appear to be!! > >Remind me never to give you an exam ...with anything less than a harpoon! > >Dr. Colopro >-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > >----- Original Message ----- >From: Bullyhart at aol.com >To: seravilo at netzero.net ; jsmirz at comcast.net ; rosekendeb at hotmail.com >Cc: syty at syty.org >Sent: Monday, October 23, 2006 3:27 PM >Subject: Re: [Syty] rust > > >WHAT?!?!! And all this time I was under the misconception you had a PhD in Coloproctology... > > >In a message dated 10/23/2006 2:09:48 P.M. Central Standard Time, seravilo at netzero.net writes: > You guys SLAY me! > > Any good chemist (I'm merely a physicist/engineer/attorney who got better grades in chemistry) knows that NITRIC acid is "optimized" for etching ferro-metals and copper as hydrofluoric acid is used to etch glass. So-called "strong" acids refers to their relative pH at standardized concentrations... but NOT to their universal reactivity with all substances, especially concrete. > > If I had any rust-stains on my driveway I'd go out and buy a flask of HNO3 and that Flit or Whisk or Shout or Whatever and PROVE that my solution would be as... if not more... effective and at a lower cost and with a less deleterious impact on the local environment. > > But who would listen...? > > Have it your way(s), > > Dr. D.O. >-------------- next part -------------- >An HTML attachment was scrubbed... >URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061023/e2cbe884/attachment-0001.htm > >------------------------------ > >Message: 4 >Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 07:47:36 -0700 (PDT) >From: Dig >Subject: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 >To: syty at syty.org >Message-ID: <20061024144736.27720.qmail at web35302.mail.mud.yahoo.com> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ascii > > >If you're looking for just a good "replacement" pump, the 190 l/hr walbro is a good one: > >http://www.apeusa.com/ > >FPG001 > >Can't beat the price, and the quality exceeds the stockers. > >Ron's a Sy/Ty "old-timer" too, so he understands the application. > >Later, > >Dig >turbodig[at]yahoo.com > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Jeffrey Smirz > To: syty at syty.org > Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 8:03 PM > Subject: [Syty] Fuel Pump > > > The Ty's OEM pump is down to about 25 psi. The poor thing barely runs. I'm pumping and pulling the tank tomorrow. There was a lot of talk about Walbros in Feb. '05, but I'm not planning on racing, except the occasional stoplight Grand Prix. I'm leaning towards a Bosch replacement pump. Advice is welcome.....particularly if it comes from the one and only serovilo, grtyphoon, bullyhart, merk1993 or any of the other great contributors. > > Jeff > Syclone #950 (totaled in '99) > Syclone #1654 (formerly Chris Pearson's) > Typhoon #1165 > Indy, IN > > > > > >---------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > > >------------------------------ > >Message: 5 >Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 10:06:43 -0500 >From: Brian Dourty >Subject: Re: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 >To: Dig >Cc: syty at syty.org >Message-ID: <453E2C03.20805 at got-boost.net> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed > >While we are talking about fuel pumps...how hard would it be to fab up a >double pumper setup? What would be needed? > >Stock sending unit. >2 255 l/hr walbro's >Some sort of Y adapter to hook both pumps up to stock sending unit? >Would it NEED to be billit? >Relay to kick second pump on > >Anyone got a parts list from the old ATR double pumper? > >Brian > >Dig wrote: > > If you're looking for just a good "replacement" pump, the 190 l/hr walbro is a good one: > > > > http://www.apeusa.com/ > > > > FPG001 > > > > Can't beat the price, and the quality exceeds the stockers. > > > > Ron's a Sy/Ty "old-timer" too, so he understands the application. > > > > Later, > > > > Dig > > turbodig[at]yahoo.com > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: Jeffrey Smirz > > To: syty at syty.org > > Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 8:03 PM > > Subject: [Syty] Fuel Pump > > > > > > The Ty's OEM pump is down to about 25 psi. The poor thing barely runs. I'm pumping and pulling the tank tomorrow. There was a lot of talk about Walbros in Feb. '05, but I'm not planning on racing, except the occasional stoplight Grand Prix. I'm leaning towards a Bosch replacement pump. Advice is welcome.....particularly if it comes from the one and only serovilo, grtyphoon, bullyhart, merk1993 or any of the other great contributors. > > > > Jeff > > Syclone #950 (totaled in '99) > > Syclone #1654 (formerly Chris Pearson's) > > Typhoon #1165 > > Indy, IN > > > > > > > > > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Syty mailing list > > Syty at syty.org > > http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty > > > > > >------------------------------ > >_______________________________________________ >Syty mailing list >Syty at syty.org >http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty > > >End of Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 4 >*********************************** -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Syty mailing list Syty at syty.org http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061024/352e5824/attachment-0001.html From seravilo at netzero.net Tue Oct 24 14:54:20 2006 From: seravilo at netzero.net (DOlivares) Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 14:54:20 -0500 Subject: [Syty] RE: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 4 References: Message-ID: <008701c6f7a6$3b12fdd0$10f46942@coresys1> WE need to form our own club! Any relation to the Presidents (Bushes)? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- Original Message ----- From: George Prescott To: syty at syty.org Cc: rilawoffice at msn.com Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 10:23 AM Subject: [Syty] RE: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 4 Here I am , a physicist/engineer/attorney and car guy. I thought I was all alone. George Prescott ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ From: syty-request at syty.org Reply-To: syty at syty.org To: syty at syty.org Subject: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 4 Date: 24 Oct 2006 08:08:56 -0700 >Send Syty mailing list submissions to > syty at syty.org > >To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty >or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > syty-request at syty.org > >You can reach the person managing the list at > syty-owner at syty.org > >When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific >than "Re: Contents of Syty digest..." > > >Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: rust (DOlivares) > 2. Re: rust (Bullyhart at aol.com) > 3. Re: rust (DOlivares) > 4. Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 (Dig) > 5. Re: Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 (Brian Dourty) > > >---------------------------------------------------------------------- > >Message: 1 >Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 14:07:42 -0500 >From: "DOlivares" >Subject: Re: [Syty] rust >To: "Jeffrey Smirz" , "ken rose jr" > >Cc: SYTY >Message-ID: <00ce01c6f6d6$85e43e80$63f85a42 at coresys1> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > >You guys SLAY me! > >Any good chemist (I'm merely a physicist/engineer/attorney who got better grades in chemistry) knows that NITRIC acid is "optimized" for etching ferro-metals and copper as hydrofluoric acid is used to etch glass. So-called "strong" acids refers to their relative pH at standardized concentrations... but NOT to their universal reactivity with all substances, especially concrete. > >If I had any rust-stains on my driveway I'd go out and buy a flask of HNO3 and that Flit or Whisk or Shout or Whatever and PROVE that my solution would be as... if not more... effective and at a lower cost and with a less deleterious impact on the local environment. > >But who would listen...? > >Have it your way(s), > >Dr. D.O. >-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > >----- Original Message ----- >From: Jeffrey Smirz >To: ken rose jr >Cc: syty at syty.org >Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2006 7:26 AM >Subject: Re: [Syty] rust > > >It's actually Whink, which is a dilute solution of hydrofluoric acid. It should perform about the same as Larry Brown's muriatic acid and Dennis Olivares' nitric acid. All 3 of these are chemically considered 'strong' acids, which is why they etch concrete as well as 'remove' rust quicker. 'Weak' acids, such as acetic (vinegar) and carbonic (generated from baking soda) will also work, but will take a lot longer and may not remove some forms of rust. ("Rust" is a common term for various iron oxides.) > > >Iron Out is sodium hydrosulfite, which generates a "middle" strength acid when dissolved in water. > > >All these acids 'remove' rust by converting it to water soluble salts. For example, the muriatic acid converts iron oxides (red-brown and insoluble) to iron chloride (colorless and soluble). > > >If I was as good a mechanic as I am a chemist, my Typhoon would be running now! I'm still fussing with that fuel pump problem I mentioned on the list way back in April! > >Jeff > > > > > > >On Oct 11, 2006, at 7:43 PM, ken rose jr wrote: > > > Has anyone tried Wink.. Its a liquid rust remover. I use it to get the rust out of my toilet and it works better than iron out and other brands that I tried! I just squirt it on the rust stains and they vanish before your eyes like magic. The stuff is hard to find..kmart used to have it but i have not looked there lately.. Comes in a small bottle and costs around $4.00. Last time I bought it at the hardware store..Ace hardware I believe. Never tried it on concrete but I plan to cause my plow left some rust on my driveway. Hope this helps!!! > _______________________________________________ > Syty mailing list > Syty at syty.org > http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty > > > > >-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > >_______________________________________________ >Syty mailing list >Syty at syty.org >http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty >-------------- next part -------------- >An HTML attachment was scrubbed... >URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061023/a2903f5f/attachment-0001.htm > >------------------------------ > >Message: 2 >Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 16:27:00 EDT >From: Bullyhart at aol.com >Subject: Re: [Syty] rust >To: seravilo at netzero.net, jsmirz at comcast.net, rosekendeb at hotmail.com >Cc: syty at syty.org >Message-ID: <3f5.da2e3f4.326e7f94 at aol.com> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > >WHAT?!?!! And all this time I was under the misconception you had a PhD in >Coloproctology... > > >In a message dated 10/23/2006 2:09:48 P.M. Central Standard Time, >seravilo at netzero.net writes: > >You guys SLAY me! > >Any good chemist (I'm merely a physicist/engineer/attorney who got better >grades in chemistry) knows that NITRIC acid is "optimized" for etching >ferro-metals and copper as hydrofluoric acid is used to etch glass. So-called >"strong" acids refers to their relative pH at standardized concentrations... but >NOT to their universal reactivity with all substances, especially concrete. > >If I had any rust-stains on my driveway I'd go out and buy a flask of HNO3 >and that Flit or Whisk or Shout or Whatever and PROVE that my solution would >be as... if not more... effective and at a lower cost and with a less >deleterious impact on the local environment. > >But who would listen...? > >Have it your way(s), > >Dr. D.O. > > > > >-------------- next part -------------- >An HTML attachment was scrubbed... >URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061023/965b1a3e/attachment-0001.htm > >------------------------------ > >Message: 3 >Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 15:31:57 -0500 >From: "DOlivares" >Subject: Re: [Syty] rust >To: , , > >Cc: syty at syty.org >Message-ID: <00ee01c6f6e2$4a9972d0$63f85a42 at coresys1> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > >Still at it eh, laughing boy! > >Better the credential than the OBJECT of said credential, as you appear to be!! > >Remind me never to give you an exam ...with anything less than a harpoon! > >Dr. Colopro >-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > >----- Original Message ----- >From: Bullyhart at aol.com >To: seravilo at netzero.net ; jsmirz at comcast.net ; rosekendeb at hotmail.com >Cc: syty at syty.org >Sent: Monday, October 23, 2006 3:27 PM >Subject: Re: [Syty] rust > > >WHAT?!?!! And all this time I was under the misconception you had a PhD in Coloproctology... > > >In a message dated 10/23/2006 2:09:48 P.M. Central Standard Time, seravilo at netzero.net writes: > You guys SLAY me! > > Any good chemist (I'm merely a physicist/engineer/attorney who got better grades in chemistry) knows that NITRIC acid is "optimized" for etching ferro-metals and copper as hydrofluoric acid is used to etch glass. So-called "strong" acids refers to their relative pH at standardized concentrations... but NOT to their universal reactivity with all substances, especially concrete. > > If I had any rust-stains on my driveway I'd go out and buy a flask of HNO3 and that Flit or Whisk or Shout or Whatever and PROVE that my solution would be as... if not more... effective and at a lower cost and with a less deleterious impact on the local environment. > > But who would listen...? > > Have it your way(s), > > Dr. D.O. >-------------- next part -------------- >An HTML attachment was scrubbed... >URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061023/e2cbe884/attachment-0001.htm > >------------------------------ > >Message: 4 >Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 07:47:36 -0700 (PDT) >From: Dig >Subject: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 >To: syty at syty.org >Message-ID: <20061024144736.27720.qmail at web35302.mail.mud.yahoo.com> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ascii > > >If you're looking for just a good "replacement" pump, the 190 l/hr walbro is a good one: > >http://www.apeusa.com/ > >FPG001 > >Can't beat the price, and the quality exceeds the stockers. > >Ron's a Sy/Ty "old-timer" too, so he understands the application. > >Later, > >Dig >turbodig[at]yahoo.com > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Jeffrey Smirz > To: syty at syty.org > Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 8:03 PM > Subject: [Syty] Fuel Pump > > > The Ty's OEM pump is down to about 25 psi. The poor thing barely runs. I'm pumping and pulling the tank tomorrow. There was a lot of talk about Walbros in Feb. '05, but I'm not planning on racing, except the occasional stoplight Grand Prix. I'm leaning towards a Bosch replacement pump. Advice is welcome.....particularly if it comes from the one and only serovilo, grtyphoon, bullyhart, merk1993 or any of the other great contributors. > > Jeff > Syclone #950 (totaled in '99) > Syclone #1654 (formerly Chris Pearson's) > Typhoon #1165 > Indy, IN > > > > > >---------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > > >------------------------------ > >Message: 5 >Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 10:06:43 -0500 >From: Brian Dourty >Subject: Re: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 >To: Dig >Cc: syty at syty.org >Message-ID: <453E2C03.20805 at got-boost.net> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed > >While we are talking about fuel pumps...how hard would it be to fab up a >double pumper setup? What would be needed? > >Stock sending unit. >2 255 l/hr walbro's >Some sort of Y adapter to hook both pumps up to stock sending unit? >Would it NEED to be billit? >Relay to kick second pump on > >Anyone got a parts list from the old ATR double pumper? > >Brian > >Dig wrote: > > If you're looking for just a good "replacement" pump, the 190 l/hr walbro is a good one: > > > > http://www.apeusa.com/ > > > > FPG001 > > > > Can't beat the price, and the quality exceeds the stockers. > > > > Ron's a Sy/Ty "old-timer" too, so he understands the application. > > > > Later, > > > > Dig > > turbodig[at]yahoo.com > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: Jeffrey Smirz > > To: syty at syty.org > > Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 8:03 PM > > Subject: [Syty] Fuel Pump > > > > > > The Ty's OEM pump is down to about 25 psi. The poor thing barely runs. I'm pumping and pulling the tank tomorrow. There was a lot of talk about Walbros in Feb. '05, but I'm not planning on racing, except the occasional stoplight Grand Prix. I'm leaning towards a Bosch replacement pump. Advice is welcome.....particularly if it comes from the one and only serovilo, grtyphoon, bullyhart, merk1993 or any of the other great contributors. > > > > Jeff > > Syclone #950 (totaled in '99) > > Syclone #1654 (formerly Chris Pearson's) > > Typhoon #1165 > > Indy, IN > > > > > > > > > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Syty mailing list > > Syty at syty.org > > http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty > > > > > >------------------------------ > >_______________________________________________ >Syty mailing list >Syty at syty.org >http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty > > >End of Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 4 >*********************************** -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Syty mailing list Syty at syty.org http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061024/3173a5f8/attachment-0001.html From turbodig at yahoo.com Tue Oct 24 16:31:32 2006 From: turbodig at yahoo.com (Dig) Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 14:31:32 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Syty] Double-pumper (was Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 6) Message-ID: <20061024213132.31245.qmail@web35308.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I don't think the hobbs really adds much either, particularly in an environment where you can tune stuff. Back in the old days, it was sort of seen as a way to combat fuel loading on the low end, while providing more at the top. It would save wear/tear on the second pump, however. I never saw more than a 2-3 psi jump by activating the second pump, which wouldn't even amount to a .1 AFR change with stock injectors. It would likely be more significant with larger injectors. I wouldn't dream of running both pumps with the same wiring. Personally, I wouldn't run *either* pump with the OEM wiring. Get some nice weatherpack connectors from waytek, and make a nice 10-ga harness, with really good grounds to the frame. I've seen stock fuel line setups support mid 10 second vehicles, so the line capacity is there. Generally, if you go faster than that, you're going to be doing more with the fuel system anyway. Side topic... is really odd digest operation normal? Or does it digest by kb? Nothing for a week, then 4 all on the same day? Later, Dig ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 11:49:46 -0400 From: "tydriver at gmail.com" Subject: Re: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 To: "Brian Dourty" Cc: syty at syty.org Message-ID: <002701c6f784$0a0f0ca0$6401a8c0 at laptop> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=response I am not 100 % on the wiring but I know that Nolan did this setup before on a truck or two he was building..Personally I dont like the idea of running a hobbs type switch to kick the 2nd pump on (like the ATR setup) but thats just me. I would be interested in seeing how many problems you'd run into by running them both continuously. The setup that Nolan made had a Y adapter from the 2 pumps into the single feed line. I had some pictures of it around here somewhere but lost it with the most recent HD crash otherwise I'd forward them.. I checked canadiansyty.com and its no longer up anymore, so I dont know what happened to the information.. Maybe email Nolan directly ?? I would most definitely run a thicker gauge wire off the alternator back there with a relay of some sort to turn the pumps on when they'd normally run (similar to the boost-a-pump/or racetronix setup), using the stock fuel pump wire to trigger the relay. HTH, Todd -- From TurboV6 at telusplanet.net Tue Oct 24 20:19:13 2006 From: TurboV6 at telusplanet.net (Nolan Nykyforuk) Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2006 19:19:13 -0600 Subject: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 In-Reply-To: <002f01c6f7a3$0d846c30$10f46942@coresys1> Message-ID: <20061025011908.D292LGVG4T@priv-edtnaa06.telusplanet.net> Guess I should have mentioned we used a 30amp relay fed off the back of the alternator with #10 wire. We also made one of the grounds that is on the sealed connector a power feed so we had two power feed pins. We drilled and taped a hole in the top Of the sender and made that the ground instead. We also y together the power feeds after going thru the two connector pins. This way one connector fries both Pumps get power still. If both connectors fry then both pumps turn off. Simple and no chance of lean out. Nolan _____ From: syty-bounces at syty.org [mailto:syty-bounces at syty.org] On Behalf Of DOlivares Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 1:32 PM To: Brian Dourty; Dig Cc: syty at syty.org Subject: Re: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 Importance: Low Space, ...especially around the floor of the tank is TIGHT, and it would take quite an imagination to rig up a pick-up plenum in lieu of trying to configure 2 filter-socks at the same height/level of gas so that neither would constrain the float-arm or suck air at anywhere less than a quarter-tank of fuel. But, my chief concern-- especially if one is contemplating parallel "super" pumps-- is that the GAUGE OF THE WIRE from the FP Relay all the way to the in-tank units would have to be beefed-up a couple of numbers to both ensure delivery of full voltage to the gerotors and prevent frying the harness... particularly when one pump runs dry for anything past 20 seconds. At some point, the stock architecture simply won't support gas-guzzling like a top-fuel dragster! Better to do a complete rework with a new tank, lines, wire-feed, and firehose-pump as they do on Horsepower TV.... Who needs that much gas for the street anyway? ...especially with the specter of $3/gal lurking at the horizon! Big Daddy D.O. _____ ----- Original Message ----- From: Brian Dourty To: Dig Cc: syty at syty.org Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 10:06 AM Subject: Re: [Syty] Re: Syty Digest, Vol 19, Issue 3 While we are talking about fuel pumps...how hard would it be to fab up a double pumper setup? What would be needed? Stock sending unit. 2 255 l/hr walbro's Some sort of Y adapter to hook both pumps up to stock sending unit? Would it NEED to be billit? Relay to kick second pump on Anyone got a parts list from the old ATR double pumper? Brian Dig wrote: > If you're looking for just a good "replacement" pump, the 190 l/hr walbro is a good one: > > http://www.apeusa.com/ > > FPG001 > > Can't beat the price, and the quality exceeds the stockers. > > Ron's a Sy/Ty "old-timer" too, so he understands the application. > > Later, > > Dig > turbodig[at]yahoo.com > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Jeffrey Smirz > To: syty at syty.org > Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 8:03 PM > Subject: [Syty] Fuel Pump > > > The Ty's OEM pump is down to about 25 psi. The poor thing barely runs. I'm pumping and pulling the tank tomorrow. There was a lot of talk about Walbros in Feb. '05, but I'm not planning on racing, except the occasional stoplight Grand Prix. I'm leaning towards a Bosch replacement pump. Advice is welcome.....particularly if it comes from the one and only serovilo, grtyphoon, bullyhart, merk1993 or any of the other great contributors. > > Jeff > Syclone #950 (totaled in '99) > Syclone #1654 (formerly Chris Pearson's) > Typhoon #1165 > Indy, IN > > > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > _______________________________________________ > Syty mailing list > Syty at syty.org > http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty > _______________________________________________ Syty mailing list Syty at syty.org http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061024/91d4b1d0/attachment-0001.html From seravilo at netzero.net Wed Oct 25 12:48:02 2006 From: seravilo at netzero.net (DOlivares) Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2006 12:48:02 -0500 Subject: [Syty] rust References: <00ce01c6f6d6$85e43e80$63f85a42@coresys1> <7F530B6E-D2DC-4899-BA23-451C88482B91@comcast.net> Message-ID: <005901c6f85d$b9317130$0df46942@coresys1> Very well... I BOW to your correction! The rest of youse better print this thing out and frame it 'cause you're unlikely to ever see its like again.... Your Obedient Savant -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- Original Message ----- From: Jeffrey Smirz To: DOlivares Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 5:21 PM Subject: Re: [Syty] rust Dennis, Since you're merely a physicist/engineer/attorney, your 'understanding' of chemistry is, well, understandable. You are confusing acid-base chemistry with oxidation-reduction chemistry. Nitric acid happens to be BOTH a strong acid and a strong oxidizing agent. The fact that it can "etch" metals has nothing to do with it's acidity; and it's ability to react with iron oxides has nothing to with it's oxidizing agency. Using nitric acid, or any strong acid (one that completely dissociates into hydronium ions in water) to remove rust from concrete is overkill to the extreme, which is one reason it's not found in household preparations for that purpose. Weaker acids such as oxalic, phosphoric and, yes, hydrofluoric, convert iron oxides to colorless salts with much less danger to the concrete, although HF is extremely toxid to your flesh. Salts that form even weaker acids in aqueous solution, such as sodium bisulfite/sodium hydrosulfite (Iron Out) or ammonium citrate are usually adequate and about as non-toxic to both you and the environment as you can get and still get the job done. Jeff On Oct 23, 2006, at 3:07 PM, DOlivares wrote: You guys SLAY me! Any good chemist (I'm merely a physicist/engineer/attorney who got better grades in chemistry) knows that NITRIC acid is "optimized" for etching ferro-metals and copper as hydrofluoric acid is used to etch glass. So-called "strong" acids refers to their relative pH at standardized concentrations... but NOT to their universal reactivity with all substances, especially concrete. If I had any rust-stains on my driveway I'd go out and buy a flask of HNO3 and that Flit or Whisk or Shout or Whatever andPROVE that my solution would be as... if not more... effective and at a lower cost and with a less deleterious impact on the local environment. But who would listen...? Have it your way(s), Dr. D.O. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ ----- Original Message ----- From: Jeffrey Smirz To: ken rose jr Cc: syty at syty.org Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2006 7:26 AM Subject: Re: [Syty] rust It's actually Whink, which is a dilute solution of hydrofluoric acid. It should perform about the same as Larry Brown's muriatic acid and Dennis Olivares' nitric acid. All 3 of these are chemically considered 'strong' acids, which is why they etch concrete as well as 'remove' rust quicker. 'Weak' acids, such as acetic (vinegar) and carbonic (generated from baking soda) will also work, but will take a lot longer and may not remove some forms of rust. ("Rust" is a common term for various iron oxides.) Iron Out is sodium hydrosulfite, which generates a "middle" strength acid when dissolved in water. All these acids 'remove' rust by converting it to water soluble salts. For example, the muriatic acid converts iron oxides (red-brown and insoluble) to iron chloride (colorless and soluble). If I was as good a mechanic as I am a chemist, my Typhoon would be running now! I'm still fussing with that fuel pump problem I mentioned on the list way back in April! Jeff On Oct 11, 2006, at 7:43 PM, ken rose jr wrote: Has anyone tried Wink.. Its a liquid rust remover. I use it to get the rust out of my toilet and it works better than iron out and other brands that I tried! I just squirt it on the rust stains and they vanish before your eyes like magic. The stuff is hard to find..kmart used to have it but i have not looked there lately.. Comes in a small bottle and costs around $4.00. Last time I bought it at the hardware store..Ace hardware I believe. Never tried it on concrete but I plan to cause my plow left some rust on my driveway. Hope this helps!!! _______________________________________________ Syty mailing list Syty at syty.org http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ Syty mailing list Syty at syty.org http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20061025/829ccfe9/attachment-0001.html