From seravilo at netzero.net Sun Jan 7 13:24:38 2007 From: seravilo at netzero.net (DOlivares) Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2007 13:24:38 -0600 Subject: [Syty] Fw: ABS Kit...? Message-ID: <000601c73291$7a355230$27406b43@coresys1> MIKE HOOD, Where are you? Have you still got any of those ABS-Removal Kits around? I need one... too lazy to go around shopping for the T-unions and other such stuff. Get back to me with some good news.... D.O. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- Original Message ----- From: Michael S. Renz To: 'DOlivares' Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2007 1:30 AM Subject: RE: ABS Kit...? Ha...i gave up as soon as Mike Hood started selling a good kit. I even bought one of his kits (only like $15-25). Dunno if he has any in stock, but give him a shout. He is "sytyguy" on syty.net. -Mike -----Original Message----- From: DOlivares [mailto:seravilo at netzero.net] Sent: Friday, January 05, 2007 3:36 PM To: mike at vancerenz.com Subject: Re: ABS Kit...? Importance: High Clearing out e-archives and found THIS: Boy, do I have patience or what! I'm still waiting on that Kit!! What gives? D.O. ________________________________ ----- Original Message ----- From: Michael S. Renz To: 'Dennisolivares' Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2004 1:41 PM Subject: RE: ABS Kit...? Well you said no rush. So I didn't! Anyway..I understood roughly 1/3rd of your resume. Some wacky stuff you do. I don't have any complete a-abs kits. I need to make some trips and pick up the rear line so I can start selling/shipping them. The kit will most likely be $15 + shipping. I'll let you know once I have it. It won't be all that soon though due to the coldness. -Mike -----Original Message----- From: Dennisolivares [mailto:pariah at acer-access.com] Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2004 2:34 PM To: mike at vancerenz.com Subject: Re: ABS Kit...? Importance: High 2nd Transmittal! ----- Original Message ----- From: Dennisolivares To: mike at vancerenz.com Sent: Monday, December 29, 2003 8:28 AM Subject: ABS Kit...? Mike, Any luck unloading those a-ABS kits? I logged on late (i.e., last night) and didn't know about the GP, if any. If you could spare the time, I could surely do with at least one of those flared pieces. Actually the T-fitting is what slowed my progress over a year ago on this removal on the 'Clone. Now, I've got a Typhoon to boot and have TWO ABSs to get rid of-- pieces of junk one and all! What's the price these days...? No rush... just curious. For laughs, I'd thought to include my own resum?... since I've seen yours it seemed only fair. Now, you have something to look forward to when you grow up to know better.... One tip though: STAY AWAY FROM NASA! You'll regret it for the rest of your life! I certainly do. Dennis O. Stipendium peccati mors est! -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20070107/2bc810d7/attachment.html From Syclone738 at aol.com Sun Jan 7 13:31:19 2007 From: Syclone738 at aol.com (Syclone738 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2007 14:31:19 EST Subject: [Syty] What to ask for sy Message-ID: I am getting ready to sell my sy and was wondering what I should ask for it. Here is the catch . The truck threw a rod about 4 years ago and I have not had the time to finish the project. I purchased a sy Gm crate motor as well as a new Tranny from Art Carr with a 3k stall, Had the truck sanded and primed and even bought some new cladding that was cracked. I have all the pieces but have lost the time and interest in the project. What would be a fair price to ask. The crate motor was around 3k and the tranny cost me 3200 both have never been run. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20070107/8679aee8/attachment.html From Bullyhart at aol.com Sun Jan 7 14:10:48 2007 From: Bullyhart at aol.com (Bullyhart at aol.com) Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2007 15:10:48 EST Subject: [Syty] What to ask for sy Message-ID: Where are you located? I would take some pictures and email them to me (or anyone else that will host them) and we can get a better idea what we are looking at. How many miles on the truck when Mr. Rod went? Daron In a message dated 1/7/2007 1:32:29 P.M. Central Standard Time, Syclone738 at aol.com writes: I am getting ready to sell my sy and was wondering what I should ask for it. Here is the catch . The truck threw a rod about 4 years ago and I have not had the time to finish the project. I purchased a sy Gm crate motor as well as a new Tranny from Art Carr with a 3k stall, Had the truck sanded and primed and even bought some new cladding that was cracked. I have all the pieces but have lost the time and interest in the project. What would be a fair price to ask. The crate motor was around 3k and the tranny cost me 3200 both have never been run. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20070107/1a6a1b29/attachment.html From Bullyhart at aol.com Sun Jan 7 15:43:56 2007 From: Bullyhart at aol.com (Bullyhart at aol.com) Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2007 16:43:56 EST Subject: [Syty] What to ask for sy Message-ID: Can you get some digital pictures of the truck? What is it worth to you right now? Daron In a message dated 1/7/2007 2:14:28 P.M. Central Standard Time, Syclone738 writes: 95k when the rod went that's why I said the hell with it and bought a new tranny too. I still have the stock tranny that was fine when the rod went. I will get some pics and send them to you. The truck is located in Dallas Tx. Thanks Steve -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20070107/7921e0da/attachment.html From rosekendeb at hotmail.com Sun Jan 7 20:07:38 2007 From: rosekendeb at hotmail.com (ken & deb rose) Date: Sun, 07 Jan 2007 20:07:38 -0600 Subject: [Syty] engine problem Message-ID: An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20070107/7a63b551/attachment.html From rosekendeb at hotmail.com Sun Jan 7 20:48:31 2007 From: rosekendeb at hotmail.com (ken & deb rose) Date: Sun, 07 Jan 2007 20:48:31 -0600 Subject: [Syty] motor problem Message-ID: An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20070107/83fdd3f2/attachment.html From brassmonkey at ec.rr.com Sun Jan 7 20:59:53 2007 From: brassmonkey at ec.rr.com (Mel) Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2007 21:59:53 -0500 Subject: [Syty] (no subject) Message-ID: <008401c732d1$12844340$2cd7b841@mgochnour> There is a twin turbo rail on KDS' website from this past weekends race. Makes me wish I had've gone to the race now, just to see that thing make a pass. http://www.kdsmotorsports.com/photo/ Cruzin' Mel Man Semper Fi Keep your fork -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20070107/de4cabb7/attachment.html From MCole at sta.samsung.com Sun Jan 7 22:42:03 2007 From: MCole at sta.samsung.com (Marion Cole) Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2007 22:42:03 -0600 Subject: [Syty] engine problem Message-ID: <4A2DFEA767C0CB4396FF2CE75559A4880111F443@mx2.telecom.sna.samsung.com> I can only offer what I have done in similar instance. The first thing is these engines are easily damaged by low fuel pressure. When fuel pressure is low, the engine will run lean and the excessive heat will damage the rings and you will end up with low compression. This will exhibit itself as a rough running engine. There are several major things to make an engine run correctly but the major items are good rings and valves, good fuel pressure and injectors, no vacuum leaks, good plug wires& plugs, electrical system, timed properly, and good computer. You can ensure fuel delivery system by checking fuel pressure as you have already done. You can check timing with EST lead disconnected in cab as you have done. The last easy check is to physically check all the lines on the Vacuum tubes to ensure no leaks Pull all plugs but ensure you label the plug wires so they get put back on in the proper order. With all plugs removed check compression around 160 lbs Replace all plugs and double check the wiring from distributor to each plug to ensure the wires are in the correct firing order at the distributor cap and replace the wires if they are suspect or are the factory originals (as you have done)You should also check condition of the rotor and cap to see if they need to be replaced (as you have done). In the past I have simply replaced these (as you have done) along with the coil just to know I eliminated them as a possible issue. Wires, Plugs, rotor, cap, coil total cost will be about $150 but worth it to provide several years of good performance. I had the issue three times that you are experiencing: 1st time it did not run real bad but had a noticeable rough feeling due to bad rings on cylinders 3 and 5 due to low fuel pressure (rebuilt the engine (90,000 miles) rebuilt with race parts so cost was high ($2500). 2nd time was due to having the engine out of time. I had replaced the intake manifold gasket material at the rear of the intake because an oil leak that had developed (the sealer I used at rebuild did not hold up: the GM sealer designed for this was used this time and it holds up). When I put the distributor back in I forgot to disconnect the EST wire in the cab when I timed the engine. The engine would idle OK but when driven and I pressed the accelerator it would hardly run. I disconnected EST an timed to 0 Degrees to fix the problem. 3rd time when I floored accelerator engine would not accelerate well and pinged. I Fixed a vacuum lead that was disconnected at the tube junction just to the right and slightly in front of distributor. I approach these issues in this manner. If you have fuel, spark, and timing the engine will run. The first thing I check is Fuel pressure, next I check for timing and spark at each cylinder using a timing light on all plug wires. IF I have fuel, Spark, and timing there should not be an issue so then I go to things like replacing plugs, plug wires, rotor & cap as you have done. All this having been said and noting the work you have done it really does seem you have eliminated all possible problems except a vacuum leak and a compression test. To me the most often correct answer to your particular symptoms is timing. I would double check this one more time making sure the EST wire is disconnected and the timing light is on plug number 1and also try it on plug wire for number 4. To go any deeper you should use Diacom software. ________________________________ From: syty-bounces at syty.org [mailto:syty-bounces at syty.org] On Behalf Of ken & deb rose Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2007 8:08 PM To: Syty at syty.org Subject: [Syty] engine problem I am stumped!! I put a brand new MCoy engine in my truck two years ago and it ran fine until I ran the truck almost out of gas. Shortly there after one of my new injectors stuck OPEN so I replaced it and all was well. The following year my son tj noticed that the knock sensor was broke..must of happened when the engine was put in by my brother n law. So tj put a new sensor in and the truck would hardly run so he checked the timing and it was at 40 degrees advanced and yes he unpluged the wire in cab first. He reset timing to zero and truck idled fine. Now if you drive it like an old lady it runs ok but as soon as you give her some pedal it runs terrible. It backfires and misses.We put in new plugs cap and rotor then drove it for a while and rechecked plugs and they looked good.We also rechecked fuel pressure and it was fine.. forgot to mention the old plugs we replaced had to wide of a gap which could of been from detonation we suspect, but maybe they were not gaped right when put in. Never heard the motor pinging at all tho. The truck has not been driven much so the motor has maybe 1500 miles on her and was never beat on. We still have to check the injectors with tjs noid tester to see if one or more is sticking. We wonder if the distributer is bad cause it was the only thing I did not replace on the motor. I bought all new sensors before motor was put in.Also plugged in code reader and all was good. But come to think of it me and the kid seem to think the old motor with a bad rod had more snot to it but hard to say. Could my computer be bad?? Anyone have any ideas what could be wrong? Also forgot to mention that the motor revs fine when sitting in park, , No miss.. Idles a bit rough but it does have a cam...almost seems like a slite miss at idle but could be the cam.. I AM AT THE END OF MY ROPE WITH THIS MOTOR..KEN..... kenneth h rose jr rosekendeb at hotmail.com ________________________________ Dave vs. Carl: The Insignificant Championship Series. Who will win? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20070107/ba04603a/attachment.html From seravilo at netzero.net Sun Jan 14 16:00:10 2007 From: seravilo at netzero.net (DOlivares) Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2007 16:00:10 -0600 Subject: [Syty] engine problem References: <4A2DFEA767C0CB4396FF2CE75559A4880111F443@mx2.telecom.sna.samsung.com> Message-ID: <002101c73827$5d993470$2c406b43@coresys1> Apart from Marion Cole, ...I haven't seen much assistance offered for your McCoy-Motor Problem (MMP). Did you get this thing solved, or do I get to throw in my two cents? Cole makes a lot of good points, but what I think happened derives from 2 clues I seized upon: a.. You (almost) ran out of gasoline b.. You installed a hotter camshaft. Please respond before I write up 16 pages of esoterica for no reason! Stop me before I KILL again, D.O. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- Original Message ----- From: Marion Cole To: ken & deb rose ; Syty at syty.org Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2007 10:42 PM Subject: RE: [Syty] engine problem I can only offer what I have done in similar instance. The first thing is these engines are easily damaged by low fuel pressure. When fuel pressure is low, the engine will run lean and the excessive heat will damage the rings and you will end up with low compression. This will exhibit itself as a rough running engine. There are several major things to make an engine run correctly but the major items are good rings and valves, good fuel pressure and injectors, no vacuum leaks, good plug wires& plugs, electrical system, timed properly, and good computer. You can ensure fuel delivery system by checking fuel pressure as you have already done. You can check timing with EST lead disconnected in cab as you have done. The last easy check is to physically check all the lines on the Vacuum tubes to ensure no leaks Pull all plugs but ensure you label the plug wires so they get put back on in the proper order. With all plugs removed check compression around 160 lbs Replace all plugs and double check the wiring from distributor to each plug to ensure the wires are in the correct firing order at the distributor cap and replace the wires if they are suspect or are the factory originals (as you have done)You should also check condition of the rotor and cap to see if they need to be replaced (as you have done). In the past I have simply replaced these (as you have done) along with the coil just to know I eliminated them as a possible issue. Wires, Plugs, rotor, cap, coil total cost will be about $150 but worth it to provide several years of good performance. I had the issue three times that you are experiencing: 1st time it did not run real bad but had a noticeable rough feeling due to bad rings on cylinders 3 and 5 due to low fuel pressure (rebuilt the engine (90,000 miles) rebuilt with race parts so cost was high ($2500). 2nd time was due to having the engine out of time. I had replaced the intake manifold gasket material at the rear of the intake because an oil leak that had developed (the sealer I used at rebuild did not hold up: the GM sealer designed for this was used this time and it holds up). When I put the distributor back in I forgot to disconnect the EST wire in the cab when I timed the engine. The engine would idle OK but when driven and I pressed the accelerator it would hardly run. I disconnected EST an timed to 0 Degrees to fix the problem. 3rd time when I floored accelerator engine would not accelerate well and pinged. I Fixed a vacuum lead that was disconnected at the tube junction just to the right and slightly in front of distributor. I approach these issues in this manner. If you have fuel, spark, and timing the engine will run. The first thing I check is Fuel pressure, next I check for timing and spark at each cylinder using a timing light on all plug wires. IF I have fuel, Spark, and timing there should not be an issue so then I go to things like replacing plugs, plug wires, rotor & cap as you have done. All this having been said and noting the work you have done it really does seem you have eliminated all possible problems except a vacuum leak and a compression test. To me the most often correct answer to your particular symptoms is timing. I would double check this one more time making sure the EST wire is disconnected and the timing light is on plug number 1and also try it on plug wire for number 4. To go any deeper you should use Diacom software. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: syty-bounces at syty.org [mailto:syty-bounces at syty.org] On Behalf Of ken & deb rose Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2007 8:08 PM To: Syty at syty.org Subject: [Syty] engine problem I am stumped!! I put a brand new MCoy engine in my truck two years ago and it ran fine until I ran the truck almost out of gas. Shortly there after one of my new injectors stuck OPEN so I replaced it and all was well. The following year my son tj noticed that the knock sensor was broke..must of happened when the engine was put in by my brother n law. So tj put a new sensor in and the truck would hardly run so he checked the timing and it was at 40 degrees advanced and yes he unpluged the wire in cab first. He reset timing to zero and truck idled fine. Now if you drive it like an old lady it runs ok but as soon as you give her some pedal it runs terrible. It backfires and misses.We put in new plugs cap and rotor then drove it for a while and rechecked plugs and they looked good.We also rechecked fuel pressure and it was fine.. forgot to mention the old plugs we replaced had to wide of a gap which could of been from detonation we suspect, but maybe they were not gaped right when put in. Never heard the motor pinging at all tho. The truck has not been driven much so the motor has maybe 1500 miles on her and was never beat on. We still have to check the injectors with tjs noid tester to see if one or more is sticking. We wonder if the distributer is bad cause it was the only thing I did not replace on the motor. I bought all new sensors before motor was put in.Also plugged in code reader and all was good. But come to think of it me and the kid seem to think the old motor with a bad rod had more snot to it but hard to say. Could my computer be bad?? Anyone have any ideas what could be wrong? Also forgot to mention that the motor revs fine when sitting in park, , No miss.. Idles a bit rough but it does have a cam...almost seems like a slite miss at idle but could be the cam.. I AM AT THE END OF MY ROPE WITH THIS MOTOR..KEN..... kenneth h rose jr rosekendeb at hotmail.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Dave vs. Carl: The Insignificant Championship Series. Who will win? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Syty mailing list Syty at syty.org http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20070114/1e4d5e45/attachment.html From brassmonkey at ec.rr.com Wed Jan 17 07:42:04 2007 From: brassmonkey at ec.rr.com (Mel) Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2007 08:42:04 -0500 Subject: [Syty] I didn't know they made these. Message-ID: <001d01c73a3d$4699a940$2cd7b841@mgochnour> http://bracketracecentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=30 Cruzin' Mel Man Semper Fi Keep your fork -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20070117/0d4d2982/attachment.html