From seravilo at netzero.net  Thu Jun 14 20:38:03 2007
From: seravilo at netzero.net (DOlivares)
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2007 20:38:03 -0500
Subject: [Syty] Roller Rockers...
Message-ID: <004901c7aeed$d2047c60$2f406b43@coresys1>

My 'Clone's valve guides and/or seals have had it and I gotta do something before the EPA-cops give me a ticket!  After coming to a stop at a light or sign-- once the oil warms up... even 5W50!-- after a cruise, I get ENVELOPED in a pillar of cloud that is reminiscent of Moses and the boys running around in the desert!  This problem just crept up on me during the past few months and I gotta do something fast.

Naturally, for me, a simple valve-seal repair isn't good enough.  Here's my chance to pop-in my new injectors, convert to rollers, and maybe even swap the heads!  Anybody know anything about McCoy's "Stage 2" heads, now on sale for $495 (a pair or each?) and why they're so much cheaper than the Stage 1s?

Anybody have any luck swapping-in ROLLER-ROCKERS, with new or reused pushrods, on a stock set of heads?  (I did a Crane-swap-out on my TTA many years ago-- Chevy self-centering units-- only to break 2 of 'em when my CPU or ignition system went berserk and misfired the whole engine and shredded my TCC....)

Thanx in advance,

D.O.
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20070614/89bcdcbd/attachment.html 

From seravilo at netzero.net  Thu Jun 14 20:52:50 2007
From: seravilo at netzero.net (DOlivares)
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2007 20:52:50 -0500
Subject: [Syty] Roller Rockers...
References: <720367.21724.qm@web51903.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <005101c7aeef$e2d00990$2f406b43@coresys1>

What model/brand?

I think 3.8L Buick (LC2 engine) uses the same valve gear as the Chevy 350 and the 4.3L Vortec uses Chevy 305 gear... or is it the other way around?

D.O.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: Roy Horton 
To: DOlivares 
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2007 8:49 PM
Subject: Re: [Syty] Roller Rockers...


I've read alot of stories about people being less then satisfied with McCoy heads.  I've never had them, but here's one story.

http://www.syty.net/forums/showthread.php?t=46639&highlight=mccoy+heads

I went with stock vortec's, you could always look into having a set worked over.

I've never put rollers on any of my heads yet, but a couple buddies have on their Sy's and IIRC they used the stock pushrods without any problems.

HTH,

Roy
DOlivares <seravilo at netzero.net> wrote:
  My 'Clone's valve guides and/or seals have had it and I gotta do something before the EPA-cops give me a ticket!  After coming to a stop at a light or sign-- once the oil warms up... even 5W50!-- after a cruise, I get ENVELOPED in a pillar of cloud that is reminiscent of Moses and the boys running around in the desert!  This problem just crept up on me during the past few months and I gotta do something fast.

  Naturally, for me, a simple valve-seal repair isn't good enough.  Here's my chance to pop-in my new injectors, convert to rollers, and maybe even swap the heads!  Anybody know anything about McCoy's "Stage 2" heads, now on sale for $495 (a pair or each?) and why they're so much cheaper than the Stage 1s?

  Anybody have any luck swapping-in ROLLER-ROCKERS, with new or reused pushrods, on a stock set of heads?  (I did a Crane-swap-out on my TTA many years ago-- Chevy self-centering units-- only to break 2 of 'em when my CPU or ignition system went berserk and misfired the whole engine and shredded my TCC....)

  Thanx in advance,

  D.O.

  _______________________________________________
  Syty mailing list
  Syty at syty.org
  http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty





--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Looking for a deal? Find great prices on flights and hotels with Yahoo! FareChase.
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20070614/e395931b/attachment.html 

From undrcvr_camaro at yahoo.com  Fri Jun 15 00:36:49 2007
From: undrcvr_camaro at yahoo.com (A Murphy)
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2007 22:36:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Syty] Roller Rockers...
In-Reply-To: <004901c7aeed$d2047c60$2f406b43@coresys1>
Message-ID: <270546.28454.qm@web32701.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I put Crower narrow body roller rockers in my Typhoon. The pushrods had to be a little bit shorter than stock to keep the roller at the center of the valve stem. If you can find a set of 94-95 heads with casting numbers #10238181, or #10240209 they will be a bolt in replacement. Look in the junkyard for a 94 or 95 Bravada., thats where I found a pair. The stock valve covers fit even with the roller rockers.

Andrew

DOlivares <seravilo at netzero.net> wrote:       My 'Clone's valve  guides and/or seals have had it and I gotta do something before the EPA-cops  give me a ticket!  After coming to a stop at a light or sign-- once the oil  warms up... even 5W50!-- after a cruise, I get ENVELOPED in a pillar of cloud  that is reminiscent of Moses and the boys running around in the desert!   This problem just crept up on me during the past few months and I gotta do  something fast.
  
 Naturally, for me, a  simple valve-seal repair isn't good enough.  Here's my chance to pop-in my  new injectors, convert to rollers, and maybe even swap the heads!  Anybody  know anything about McCoy's "Stage 2" heads, now on sale for $495 (a pair or  each?) and why they're so much cheaper than the Stage 1s?
  
 Anybody have any luck  swapping-in ROLLER-ROCKERS, with new or reused pushrods, on a stock set of  heads?  (I did a Crane-swap-out on my TTA many years ago-- Chevy  self-centering units-- only to break 2 of 'em when my CPU or ignition system  went berserk and misfired the whole engine and shredded my TCC....)
  
 Thanx in  advance,
  
 D.O.
  
_______________________________________________
Syty mailing list
Syty at syty.org
http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty


       
---------------------------------
Choose the right car based on your needs.  Check out Yahoo! Autos new Car Finder tool.
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20070614/a95c733e/attachment.html 

From sytydave at gmail.com  Fri Jun 15 06:59:47 2007
From: sytydave at gmail.com (Dave Goodhue)
Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2007 07:59:47 -0400
Subject: [Syty] Roller Rockers...
In-Reply-To: <ba3beb080706150459u20e8d316oead53f7a3f3f2a51@mail.gmail.com>
References: <004901c7aeed$d2047c60$2f406b43@coresys1>
	<270546.28454.qm@web32701.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<ba3beb080706150459u20e8d316oead53f7a3f3f2a51@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <ba3beb080706150459i14f07ba0x3f1fa0cce105ba98@mail.gmail.com>

>What model/brand?

>I think 3.8L Buick (LC2 engine) uses the same valve gear as the Chevy
350 and the 4.3L >Vortec uses Chevy 305 gear... or is it the other way
around?

The Buick LC2 has shaft mounted rockers.   The 4.3 is similliar to the
305/350  (305 is just a small bore 350)  The 4.3 is basically a 3/4
350, sharing the same bore and stoke.  (Tidbit of info, the 229 V6
Chevy is an 3/4 oddfire 305.)

Anyway I used a Crane Gold narrow body rockers and they worked just
fine, clear the valve covers fine.  As for Vortecs, typically the
lower intake needs to be modifed (extended to cover the longer ports)
and the heads will need to be redilled as the intake bolts have a
different pattern.  Vortec also have metric screw in studs, while most
SBC aftermarket rocker are based on english threads.  The easiest
solution is have the head redrilled and tapped for the english thread,
so you can use common SBC studs and rockers.


From seravilo at netzero.net  Fri Jun 15 16:56:23 2007
From: seravilo at netzero.net (DOlivares)
Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2007 16:56:23 -0500
Subject: [Syty] Roller Rockers...
References: <004901c7aeed$d2047c60$2f406b43@coresys1><270546.28454.qm@web32701.mail.mud.yahoo.com><ba3beb080706150459u20e8d316oead53f7a3f3f2a51@mail.gmail.com>
	<ba3beb080706150459i14f07ba0x3f1fa0cce105ba98@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <002001c7af98$04ef4d30$31406b43@coresys1>

You're RIGHT about that LC2 stuff.  I've been reading too many back-issues of GM High-Tech Performance without mentally correcting for the 3800-series heads they (i.e., PAS) slapped on the Grand National LC2s for the Turbo Trans Am application.  Those heads took Corvette-type self-centering roller-rockers (I used Cranes... pedestals, no shafts) with what I remember was somewhat shorter pushrods (which I always get from Crower).  Maybe I'll try to locate some of those spares (had to buy a full set of 16) and see if I can't make 'em work.  I've never had those valve-covers off since I bought the Sy or the Ty.

For your well-deserved reward, I'll now pass on an arcane design tip for custom-engine builders (as I used to be):  When converting to Rollers, get a test-pushrod and weak-spring to mount the valve/retainer.  Vary the length of that 'rod keeping 2 key rules in mind to ensure reliability and high-RPM stability:
  1.. Keep the Rocker Arm as "low" as possible... as close to the basenut or pedestal base as possible without any part of the Arm touching it... to avoid galling, AND
  2.. At 40% of the total valve lift off its seat, the centerline of the roller-tip should be directly over the exact middle of the face of the valve tip (or lash-cap, if you use those).
When both of those conditions are met, you have your perfect length for your pushrod.  True purists and the ultra-fastidious, who don't trust replicated head geometry throughout both heads, would want to repeat this exercise for each rocker/valve/pushrod combination and then generate a screwball order for up to 12 different pushrods.  Good luck trying to keep all the matched-set markings straight!

Yes, yes, we all know about roller-rockers affording lower levels of friction and pumping losses, but they really come into their own by bestowing longevity to the integrity of your valve guides and their seals.  By rolling over the valve tips instead of sliding/grinding over the same, they virtually eliminate that ferocious side-loading of the valve stem which gradually turns those nice, tight cylindrical guide passages into nasty, OVAL'd holes which can get bad enough to cause the whole valve to rattle and wobble as it tries to seat/bounce under spring pressure!  How I wish I had converted back in '98 when I bought that Syclone!  My seals would still be holding all that oil in the top of the cylinder heads instead of being sucked down into the ovaled-out intakes....

Gotta go,

D.O.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



----- Original Message ----- 
From: Dave Goodhue 
To: Syty at syty.org 
Sent: Friday, June 15, 2007 6:59 AM
Subject: [Syty] Roller Rockers...


>What model/brand?

>I think 3.8L Buick (LC2 engine) uses the same valve gear as the Chevy
350 and the 4.3L >Vortec uses Chevy 305 gear... or is it the other way
around?

The Buick LC2 has shaft mounted rockers.   The 4.3 is similliar to the
305/350  (305 is just a small bore 350)  The 4.3 is basically a 3/4
350, sharing the same bore and stoke.  (Tidbit of info, the 229 V6
Chevy is an 3/4 oddfire 305.)

Anyway I used a Crane Gold narrow body rockers and they worked just
fine, clear the valve covers fine.  As for Vortecs, typically the
lower intake needs to be modifed (extended to cover the longer ports)
and the heads will need to be redilled as the intake bolts have a
different pattern.  Vortec also have metric screw in studs, while most
SBC aftermarket rocker are based on english threads.  The easiest
solution is have the head redrilled and tapped for the english thread,
so you can use common SBC studs and rockers.
_______________________________________________
Syty mailing list
Syty at syty.org
http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20070615/828ca38b/attachment.html 

From seravilo at netzero.net  Mon Jun 18 11:49:24 2007
From: seravilo at netzero.net (DOlivares)
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2007 11:49:24 -0500
Subject: [Syty] Re: SyTy
References: <4676A864.9070208@thecrosbygroup.com>
Message-ID: <003701c7b1c8$a2433ec0$0f406b43@coresys1>

Nope,

At least I don't think so.  The engine/turbo has never been apart such that I could have possibly left out a critical piece.  At better than 140k miles, there's no question that a complete overhaul is in order, but, recent smoke aside, it just runs so damn great!  Not enough reason for a tear-down....

I thought about a turbo leak from the oil-supply line but couldn't figure out the mechanism for so much oil to be getting into the exhaust, especially only at certain idle-times:  Only after coming off an extended cruise or burst if speed, at full operating temp (180 as I recall), and the engine winds down to idle speed does the embarrassing smokescreen come up.  You should see all the dirt looks I get from those Prius-owners!

However, I recently found that if I can keep the rpm up over 1200 at stoplights and such, I can greatly minimize or even eliminate the smoke problem!  This technique, combined with fresh 10W40 oil, a can of STP and a can of Restore, I only generate about 1/3 the volume of smoke as I did last week in the worst-case scenario.  What's more, now the smoke is practically ALL BLUE, whereas before it was mostly WHITE... the difference between burning traditional, mineral-based oil vs. Red Line synthetic...?  Who knows, after another couple of weeks with these additives, I may even be able to reduce all smoking to no more than one of my favorite Jamaican cigars!  

Meanwhile, I ordered a set of new valve-stem seals from RockAuto and next week expect to replace at least the driver's-side bank of units (the easier-to-remove valve cover), which theoretically should reduce at least 50% of the smoke and maybe keep things stable enough for me to wait to get another vehicle running, tagged, and insured so that I can totally decommission Ol' Reliable Syclone #773 and start on its dream-motor... titanium rods and all!

Stay tuned,

D.O.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Steve Hatheway 
  To: seravilo at netzero.net 
  Sent: Monday, June 18, 2007 10:44 AM
  Subject: SyTy


  Make sure you don't have a turbo seal out, they can real smoke alot.
  Steve




  Message: 1
  Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2007 20:38:03 -0500
  From: "DOlivares" <seravilo at netzero.net>
  Subject: [Syty] Roller Rockers...
  To: "SYTY" <syty at syty.org>
  Message-ID: <004901c7aeed$d2047c60$2f406b43 at coresys1>
  Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"

  My 'Clone's valve guides and/or seals have had it and I gotta do something before the EPA-cops give me a ticket!  After coming to a stop at a light or sign-- once the oil warms up... even 5W50!-- after a cruise, I get ENVELOPED in a pillar of cloud that is reminiscent of Moses and the boys running around in the desert!  This problem just crept up on me during the past few months and I gotta do something fast.

  Naturally, for me, a simple valve-seal repair isn't good enough.  Here's my chance to pop-in my new injectors, convert to rollers, and maybe even swap the heads!  Anybody know anything about McCoy's "Stage 2" heads, now on sale for $495 (a pair or each?) and why they're so much cheaper than the Stage 1s?

  Anybody have any luck swapping-in ROLLER-ROCKERS, with new or reused pushrods, on a stock set of heads?  (I did a Crane-swap-out on my TTA many years ago-- Chevy self-centering units-- only to break 2 of 'em when my CPU or ignition system went berserk and misfired the whole engine and shredded my TCC....)

  Thanx in advance,

  D.O.

-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20070618/8c59ccb7/attachment.html 

From theodore.metzing at verizon.net  Thu Jun 28 14:13:59 2007
From: theodore.metzing at verizon.net (Ted Metzing)
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2007 15:13:59 -0400
Subject: [Syty] 700r4 trans
Message-ID: <46840877.8060507@verizon.net>

I got a few quick questions for everybody. My friend has a 1991 Camaro
and he's willing to sell me his 700r4 trans for like a $100. Is there
any difference between that trans and the stock one in my 1993 Ty? If
not, any recommendations on what upgrades to do to it (please specify
brand names) like what torque convertor company to use and is a 3000
stall ok, what shift kit should I use, and what trans cooler should I
use? My Ty is pretty much stock except for minor mods like setting
timing to 0, AFPR, re-routed intercooler lines (removing the metal lines
for hoses), Ultimate chip, Walbro HP pump, scan tool, cap/rotor, Iridium
NGK plugs, 8.5mm wires, etc. My Ty has 104,400 miles on it, ran best of
13.36 @ 101 mph, 1.8? 60'. stock turbo @ 18 psi on 93 octane with a
little knock at full throttle (not sure if false because of the
upshifts), fuel pressure @ 54 with vac line off, 32 lb lucas green
stripe injectors. Any and all help welcome. Hope this will create a
little discussion out there. Thanks again.

Ted Metzing
93 Typhoon
06 TBSS
05 HD V-rod



From seravilo at netzero.net  Thu Jun 28 20:01:21 2007
From: seravilo at netzero.net (DOlivares)
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2007 20:01:21 -0500
Subject: [Syty] 700r4 trans
References: <46840877.8060507@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <002a01c7b9e9$046c8d90$0b406b43@coresys1>

I don't know why the Camaro version of the 700R4 would be mechanically different from the version in your Ty.  All I did to mine was...
  a.. Swap-out the TC for a Vigilante, stall = 2800rpm;
  b.. B&M Shift-Kit (made absolutely no difference!);
  c.. Swap-out the Pan for a deeper, air-tubed version from Derale; 
  d.. Replace all fluid with RedLine Racing Fluid;
  e..  and fresh K&N Filter (internal... never neglect this!)
No more plans till I get time to beef-up the engine more.  Transmission issues are closed for the moment... dead-reliable status already achieved!

D.O.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Ted Metzing 
  To: syty at syty.org 
  Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 2:13 PM
  Subject: [Syty] 700r4 trans


  I got a few quick questions for everybody. My friend has a 1991 Camaro
  and he's willing to sell me his 700r4 trans for like a $100. Is there
  any difference between that trans and the stock one in my 1993 Ty? If
  not, any recommendations on what upgrades to do to it (please specify
  brand names) like what torque convertor company to use and is a 3000
  stall ok, what shift kit should I use, and what trans cooler should I
  use? My Ty is pretty much stock except for minor mods like setting
  timing to 0, AFPR, re-routed intercooler lines (removing the metal lines
  for hoses), Ultimate chip, Walbro HP pump, scan tool, cap/rotor, Iridium
  NGK plugs, 8.5mm wires, etc. My Ty has 104,400 miles on it, ran best of
  13.36 @ 101 mph, 1.8? 60'. stock turbo @ 18 psi on 93 octane with a
  little knock at full throttle (not sure if false because of the
  upshifts), fuel pressure @ 54 with vac line off, 32 lb lucas green
  stripe injectors. Any and all help welcome. Hope this will create a
  little discussion out there. Thanks again.

  Ted Metzing
  93 Typhoon
  06 TBSS
  05 HD V-rod

  _______________________________________________
  Syty mailing list
  Syty at syty.org
  http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20070628/4b73676d/attachment.html 

From sytydave at gmail.com  Thu Jun 28 20:43:18 2007
From: sytydave at gmail.com (Dave Goodhue)
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2007 21:43:18 -0400
Subject: [Syty] 700r4 trans
In-Reply-To: <002a01c7b9e9$046c8d90$0b406b43@coresys1>
References: <46840877.8060507@verizon.net>
	<002a01c7b9e9$046c8d90$0b406b43@coresys1>
Message-ID: <ba3beb080706281843j73a6d57i459b7ebfdf6fe219@mail.gmail.com>

The SyTy transmission is basically a Corvette Transmission with 4x4
tailshaft, output shaft and a stiffer/better shifting Valve Body.  The
F-body tranmission doesn't have all the Corvette upgrades, including
the WOT 3-4 shift.  You would to swap tailshafts (easy) and output
shaft not easy.  Swapping the output shaft require 95% tear down of
the f-body transmission.  You might as well rebuildit while your at
it.  Infact I would just rebuild the Ty tranmission.  If you want
something with out any down time get a 4x4 700r4 from 88-93, rebuild
it with the corvette servo and couple of upgrades.  Grab the Valve
body, seperator plate, Servo and governor from your Ty transmission
and install those items.


On 6/28/07, DOlivares <seravilo at netzero.net> wrote:
>
> I don't know why the Camaro version of the 700R4 would be mechanically
> different from the version in your Ty.  All I did to mine was...
>
> Swap-out the TC for a Vigilante, stall = 2800rpm;
> B&M Shift-Kit (made absolutely no difference!);
> Swap-out the Pan for a deeper, air-tubed version from Derale;
> Replace all fluid with RedLine Racing Fluid;
>  and fresh K&N Filter (internal... never neglect this!)
> No more plans till I get time to beef-up the engine more.  Transmission
> issues are closed for the moment... dead-reliable status already achieved!
>
> D.O. ________________________________
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Ted Metzing
> To: syty at syty.org
> Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 2:13 PM
> Subject: [Syty] 700r4 trans
>
> I got a few quick questions for everybody. My friend has a 1991 Camaro
> and he's willing to sell me his 700r4 trans for like a $100. Is there
> any difference between that trans and the stock one in my 1993 Ty? If
> not, any recommendations on what upgrades to do to it (please specify
> brand names) like what torque convertor company to use and is a 3000
> stall ok, what shift kit should I use, and what trans cooler should I
> use? My Ty is pretty much stock except for minor mods like setting
> timing to 0, AFPR, re-routed intercooler lines (removing the metal lines
> for hoses), Ultimate chip, Walbro HP pump, scan tool, cap/rotor, Iridium
> NGK plugs, 8.5mm wires, etc. My Ty has 104,400 miles on it, ran best of
> 13.36 @ 101 mph, 1.8? 60'. stock turbo @ 18 psi on 93 octane with a
> little knock at full throttle (not sure if false because of the
> upshifts), fuel pressure @ 54 with vac line off, 32 lb lucas green
> stripe injectors. Any and all help welcome. Hope this will create a
> little discussion out there. Thanks again.
>
> Ted Metzing
> 93 Typhoon
> 06 TBSS
> 05 HD V-rod
>
> _______________________________________________
> Syty mailing list
> Syty at syty.org
> http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty
>
> _______________________________________________
> Syty mailing list
> Syty at syty.org
> http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty
>
>


From turbodig at yahoo.com  Thu Jun 28 21:23:29 2007
From: turbodig at yahoo.com (Dig)
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2007 19:23:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Syty] RE:700R4
Message-ID: <112140.32845.qm@web35308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

SyTy has a specific output shaft (unique to SyTy), completely different valve body calibration and separator plate, 2/4 servos, and most likely the governor.

It could be converted, but it would be just as easy to rebuild the stocker. And you'd know what you have.

Might be good to have the camaro one for core. It's hand to have an extra pump that you can send for machining, have one ready to go when you're ready to put things back together.

Dig

-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20070628/b1860491/attachment.html 

From MCole at sta.samsung.com  Thu Jun 28 22:38:49 2007
From: MCole at sta.samsung.com (Marion Cole)
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2007 22:38:49 -0500
Subject: [Syty] RE:700R4
In-Reply-To: <112140.32845.qm@web35308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4A2DFEA767C0CB4396FF2CE75559A48801A9FAF9@mx2.telecom.sna.samsung.com>

I replaced the transmission in my Syclone six years ago. I bought a
replacement from Chevrolet for $850. Several experts on the LIST advised
me not to go this way but my thinking was that a stock tranny had served
me well and I had no major upgrades to the engine. It was rebuilt with
Eagle Rods and KB Pistons but is basically stock. That transmission has
served me with no problems. When I replaced the tranny, I also installed
the stock TC that came with it. The TC I had in place was one from The
Converter Shop. The reason the tranny broke was I had it in OD and was
going slow behind a garbage truck and floored it to pass the truck.
Tranny went BAM. Most probably blew out the forward sprag. Truck would
still work in all gears and I drove it for a couple of weeks. I live
just north of Dallas in McKinney, TX. If anyone would be interested in a
700 core and TCS converter (this was what many were using six years ago)
please send an email. The TC I have was only used from the time I
rebuilt the engine to the tranny problem (around 15K miles). I used a
stock when I replaced the tranny because I found a stock TC to be a
smoother ride over the TCS TC. I was later informed that the ride would
have been better if I had modified a metering rod in the tranny.

 

I'm making tranny and TC available because they have just been sitting
gathering dust for six years. Again the tranny did work but something is
broke BUT if you are planning to build a tougher tranny, you would be
replacing the stock parts that are broke anyway. I do not remember what
I paid for the TC but I'll offer both for $250 (About what I paid for
the TC) if anyone in Dallas area has an interest. I'm not interested in
buying the crate necessary to ship. I think some of the tranny experts
could use this core and about $500 in parts to build a strong
Street/Strip unit. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder and many may
think its outrageous that I offer a used TC and broke tranny for sale.
I'm simply trying to find out if anyone would have interest. Does anyone
need or want this? I do not care if anyone buys it. I'm just trying to
help someone that might have a need. As I stated it has been sitting for
a long time and I'm just letting the LIST know just in case someone
wants a tranny CORE and TCS TC.

________________________________

From: syty-bounces at syty.org [mailto:syty-bounces at syty.org] On Behalf Of
Dig
Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 9:23 PM
To: syty at syty.org
Subject: [Syty] RE:700R4

 

SyTy has a specific output shaft (unique to SyTy), completely different
valve body calibration and separator plate, 2/4 servos, and most likely
the governor.

It could be converted, but it would be just as easy to rebuild the
stocker. And you'd know what you have.

Might be good to have the camaro one for core. It's hand to have an
extra pump that you can send for machining, have one ready to go when
you're ready to put things back together.

Dig

-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20070628/e8db0b46/attachment.html 

From seravilo at netzero.net  Fri Jun 29 05:57:15 2007
From: seravilo at netzero.net (DOlivares)
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2007 05:57:15 -0500
Subject: [Syty] 700r4 trans
References: <46840877.8060507@verizon.net>
	<002a01c7b9e9$046c8d90$0b406b43@coresys1>
	<ba3beb080706281843j73a6d57i459b7ebfdf6fe219@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <001901c7ba3c$423fa5a0$09406b43@coresys1>

Great analysis!

I never got much beyond Chrysler 904/998/727 TorqueFlites for that kind of detail.  Beyond fiddling with governor-springs, shift-kits (no wonder that B&M Kit made no difference!), TC-swaps, vac-modulator tweaks, and cooling tech, I never got that much "into" GM trannies.

Do the same specs apply to the Syclone Transmissions?

Thanx again,

D.O.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Dave Goodhue 
  To: DOlivares 
  Cc: Ted Metzing ; syty at syty.org 
  Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 8:43 PM
  Subject: Re: [Syty] 700r4 trans


  The SyTy transmission is basically a Corvette Transmission with 4x4
  tailshaft, output shaft and a stiffer/better shifting Valve Body.  The
  F-body tranmission doesn't have all the Corvette upgrades, including
  the WOT 3-4 shift.  You would to swap tailshafts (easy) and output
  shaft not easy.  Swapping the output shaft require 95% tear down of
  the f-body transmission.  You might as well rebuildit while your at
  it.  Infact I would just rebuild the Ty tranmission.  If you want
  something with out any down time get a 4x4 700r4 from 88-93, rebuild
  it with the corvette servo and couple of upgrades.  Grab the Valve
  body, seperator plate, Servo and governor from your Ty transmission
  and install those items.


  On 6/28/07, DOlivares <seravilo at netzero.net> wrote:
  >
  > I don't know why the Camaro version of the 700R4 would be mechanically
  > different from the version in your Ty.  All I did to mine was...
  >
  > Swap-out the TC for a Vigilante, stall = 2800rpm;
  > B&M Shift-Kit (made absolutely no difference!);
  > Swap-out the Pan for a deeper, air-tubed version from Derale;
  > Replace all fluid with RedLine Racing Fluid;
  >  and fresh K&N Filter (internal... never neglect this!)
  > No more plans till I get time to beef-up the engine more.  Transmission
  > issues are closed for the moment... dead-reliable status already achieved!
  >
  > D.O. ________________________________
  >
  >
  >
  > ----- Original Message -----
  > From: Ted Metzing
  > To: syty at syty.org
  > Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 2:13 PM
  > Subject: [Syty] 700r4 trans
  >
  > I got a few quick questions for everybody. My friend has a 1991 Camaro
  > and he's willing to sell me his 700r4 trans for like a $100. Is there
  > any difference between that trans and the stock one in my 1993 Ty? If
  > not, any recommendations on what upgrades to do to it (please specify
  > brand names) like what torque convertor company to use and is a 3000
  > stall ok, what shift kit should I use, and what trans cooler should I
  > use? My Ty is pretty much stock except for minor mods like setting
  > timing to 0, AFPR, re-routed intercooler lines (removing the metal lines
  > for hoses), Ultimate chip, Walbro HP pump, scan tool, cap/rotor, Iridium
  > NGK plugs, 8.5mm wires, etc. My Ty has 104,400 miles on it, ran best of
  > 13.36 @ 101 mph, 1.8? 60'. stock turbo @ 18 psi on 93 octane with a
  > little knock at full throttle (not sure if false because of the
  > upshifts), fuel pressure @ 54 with vac line off, 32 lb lucas green
  > stripe injectors. Any and all help welcome. Hope this will create a
  > little discussion out there. Thanks again.
  >
  > Ted Metzing
  > 93 Typhoon
  > 06 TBSS
  > 05 HD V-rod
  >
  > _______________________________________________
  > Syty mailing list
  > Syty at syty.org
  > http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty
  >
  > _______________________________________________
  > Syty mailing list
  > Syty at syty.org
  > http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty
  >
  >
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20070629/fc7129f2/attachment.html 

From seravilo at netzero.net  Fri Jun 29 06:15:44 2007
From: seravilo at netzero.net (DOlivares)
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2007 06:15:44 -0500
Subject: [Syty] RE:700R4
References: <4A2DFEA767C0CB4396FF2CE75559A48801A9FAF9@mx2.telecom.sna.samsung.com>
Message-ID: <002c01c7ba3e$d81c9900$09406b43@coresys1>

I'll keep you in mind...

I live in San Antonio and have got upwards of 140kmiles on Sy #773.  Eventually, I'm gonna have to tear something down and it's good to be shopping for rare parts and cores 'cause I work better (whenever I can manage it these distracted daze) on a trans or longblock on a nice STAND or bench without the pressure and clutter of a engine-stripped hulk lying around and accusing me!  Better to swap-in a fresh, correctly built engine in one step!  And best to keep a project car MOBILE for as long as possible before a major transplant-- spoken as an EXPERT... who's got 3 vehicles lying around in various states of disassembly and a lo-o-o-o-o-ong way from any kind of street-worthy state.

D.O.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Marion Cole 
  To: Dig ; syty at syty.org 
  Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 10:38 PM
  Subject: RE: [Syty] RE:700R4


  I replaced the transmission in my Syclone six years ago. I bought a replacement from Chevrolet for $850. Several experts on the LIST advised me not to go this way but my thinking was that a stock tranny had served me well and I had no major upgrades to the engine. It was rebuilt with Eagle Rods and KB Pistons but is basically stock. That transmission has served me with no problems. When I replaced the tranny, I also installed the stock TC that came with it. The TC I had in place was one from The Converter Shop. The reason the tranny broke was I had it in OD and was going slow behind a garbage truck and floored it to pass the truck. Tranny went BAM. Most probably blew out the forward sprag. Truck would still work in all gears and I drove it for a couple of weeks. I live just north of Dallas in McKinney, TX. If anyone would be interested in a 700 core and TCS converter (this was what many were using six years ago) please send an email. The TC I have was only used from the time I rebuilt the engine to the tranny problem (around 15K miles). I used a stock when I replaced the tranny because I found a stock TC to be a smoother ride over the TCS TC. I was later informed that the ride would have been better if I had modified a metering rod in the tranny.

   

  I'm making tranny and TC available because they have just been sitting gathering dust for six years. Again the tranny did work but something is broke BUT if you are planning to build a tougher tranny, you would be replacing the stock parts that are broke anyway. I do not remember what I paid for the TC but I'll offer both for $250 (About what I paid for the TC) if anyone in Dallas area has an interest. I'm not interested in buying the crate necessary to ship. I think some of the tranny experts could use this core and about $500 in parts to build a strong Street/Strip unit. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder and many may think its outrageous that I offer a used TC and broke tranny for sale. I'm simply trying to find out if anyone would have interest. Does anyone need or want this? I do not care if anyone buys it. I'm just trying to help someone that might have a need. As I stated it has been sitting for a long time and I'm just letting the LIST know just in case someone wants a tranny CORE and TCS TC.


------------------------------------------------------------------------------

  From: syty-bounces at syty.org [mailto:syty-bounces at syty.org] On Behalf Of Dig
  Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 9:23 PM
  To: syty at syty.org
  Subject: [Syty] RE:700R4

   

  SyTy has a specific output shaft (unique to SyTy), completely different valve body calibration and separator plate, 2/4 servos, and most likely the governor.

  It could be converted, but it would be just as easy to rebuild the stocker. And you'd know what you have.

  Might be good to have the camaro one for core. It's hand to have an extra pump that you can send for machining, have one ready to go when you're ready to put things back together.

  Dig



------------------------------------------------------------------------------


  _______________________________________________
  Syty mailing list
  Syty at syty.org
  http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20070629/16728d1d/attachment.html 

From seravilo at netzero.net  Fri Jun 29 06:54:40 2007
From: seravilo at netzero.net (DOlivares)
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2007 06:54:40 -0500
Subject: [Syty] 700r4 trans
References: <46840877.8060507@verizon.net>
	<002a01c7b9e9$046c8d90$0b406b43@coresys1>
	<46846395.7010100@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <003d01c7ba44$47ed3960$09406b43@coresys1>

Sure... "somewhat larger" should be fine, depending on what kind of LAUNCH you're trying to achieve... and how much extra gasoline you're willing to buy if you DON'T...
  a.. drive around town in Overdrive, and
  b.. drive around town a lot above 42mph.
Not to mention the extra HEAT a high-stall TC will contribute when NOT driving in OD... and assuming you haven't disabled your TCC-- good for performance, bad for heat and gas mileage!

High-stalls on the street are for kids-- much like Trix (silly Rabbit!)-- and why I opted for something under 3000rpm when I ordered my Vigilante, whose primary selling point for me was its grippy, 4x clutch area.  I wanted extra insurance that the TCC would stay locked up in spite of assorted hiccups from the motor... wanted the good gas economy above 42mph.

So unless you're building a track-only bracket machine or like harsh TCC-lock-ups, don't sweat the stall speed so much.  If you are trying to smoke tires to the exclusion of much else, MATCH your stall speed to the torque peak (rpm) you've already matched your cam and intake velocity to jointly achieve....

Smoky Ewe-Nick
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Ted Metzing 
  To: DOlivares 
  Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 8:42 PM
  Subject: Re: [Syty] 700r4 trans


  Thanks D.O. for your suggestions. Will the 2800 stall TC be good enough for a somewhat larger turbo in the future like a PTE setup?

  Ted

  DOlivares wrote: 
    I don't know why the Camaro version of the 700R4 would be mechanically different from the version in your Ty.  All I did to mine was...
      a.. Swap-out the TC for a Vigilante, stall = 2800rpm; 
      b.. B&M Shift-Kit (made absolutely no difference!); 
      c.. Swap-out the Pan for a deeper, air-tubed version from Derale; 
      d.. Replace all fluid with RedLine Racing Fluid; 
      e..  and fresh K&N Filter (internal... never neglect this!) 
    No more plans till I get time to beef-up the engine more.  Transmission issues are closed for the moment... dead-reliable status already achieved!

    D.O. 
----------------------------------------------------------------------------

      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: Ted Metzing 
      To: syty at syty.org 
      Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 2:13 PM
      Subject: [Syty] 700r4 trans


      I got a few quick questions for everybody. My friend has a 1991 Camaro
      and he's willing to sell me his 700r4 trans for like a $100. Is there
      any difference between that trans and the stock one in my 1993 Ty? If
      not, any recommendations on what upgrades to do to it (please specify
      brand names) like what torque convertor company to use and is a 3000
      stall ok, what shift kit should I use, and what trans cooler should I
      use? My Ty is pretty much stock except for minor mods like setting
      timing to 0, AFPR, re-routed intercooler lines (removing the metal lines
      for hoses), Ultimate chip, Walbro HP pump, scan tool, cap/rotor, Iridium
      NGK plugs, 8.5mm wires, etc. My Ty has 104,400 miles on it, ran best of
      13.36 @ 101 mph, 1.8? 60'. stock turbo @ 18 psi on 93 octane with a
      little knock at full throttle (not sure if false because of the
      upshifts), fuel pressure @ 54 with vac line off, 32 lb lucas green
      stripe injectors. Any and all help welcome. Hope this will create a
      little discussion out there. Thanks again.

      Ted Metzing
      93 Typhoon
      06 TBSS
      05 HD V-rod

      _______________________________________________
      Syty mailing list
      Syty at syty.org
      http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20070629/a684b8e4/attachment.html 

From bullyhart at aol.com  Fri Jun 29 10:47:54 2007
From: bullyhart at aol.com (Daron)
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2007 11:47:54 -0400
Subject: [Syty] 700r4 trans
In-Reply-To: <003d01c7ba44$47ed3960$09406b43@coresys1>
References: <46840877.8060507@verizon.net>	<002a01c7b9e9$046c8d90$0b406b43@coresys1>	<46846395.7010100@verizon.net>
	<003d01c7ba44$47ed3960$09406b43@coresys1>
Message-ID: <8C9887BFE141A5B-13A0-75B4@webmail-me02.sysops.aol.com>


 Let me summarize... A 2800 stall is a decent compromise for a street driven truck with a reasonable horsepower goal.? Find a horsepower target and build your truck for that, not the other way around.? I mainly disagree with what dennis is "smokin,"? especially if we are talking female sheep...


 Daron


 

-----Original Message-----
From: DOlivares <seravilo at netzero.net>
To: Ted Metzing <theodore.metzing at verizon.net>
Cc: SYTY <syty at syty.org>
Sent: Fri, 29 Jun 2007 6:54 am
Subject: Re: [Syty] 700r4 trans














Sure... "somewhat 
larger" should be fine, depending on what kind of LAUNCH you're 
trying to achieve... and how much extra gasoline you're willing to buy if you 
DON'T...



  
drive around town in 
  Overdrive, and

  
drive around town a 
  lot above 42mph.



Not to mention the 
extra HEAT a high-stall TC will contribute when NOT driving in OD... 
and assuming you haven't disabled your TCC-- good for performance, bad for heat 
and gas mileage!


?


High-stalls on the 
street are for kids-- much like Trix (silly Rabbit!)-- and 
why I opted for something under 3000rpm when I ordered my 
Vigilante, whose primary selling point for me was its grippy, 4x 
clutch area.? I wanted extra insurance that the TCC would stay 
locked up in spite of assorted hiccups from the motor... wanted the good gas 
economy above 42mph.


?


So unless you're 
building a track-only bracket machine or like harsh TCC-lock-ups, don't sweat 
the stall speed so much.? If you are trying to smoke tires to the 
exclusion of much else, MATCH your stall speed to the torque peak 
(rpm)?you've already matched your cam and intake velocity to jointly 
achieve....


?


Smoky Ewe-Nick







  
----- Original Message ----- 

  
From: 
  Ted Metzing 

  
To: DOlivares 

  
Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 8:42 
  PM

  
Subject: Re: [Syty] 700r4 trans

  


Thanks D.O. for 
  your suggestions. Will the 2800 stall TC be good enough for a somewhat larger 
  turbo in the future like a PTE setup?

Ted

DOlivares wrote: 
  

    
    

    
I don't know why 
    the Camaro version of the 700R4 would be mechanically different from the 
    version in your Ty.? All I did to mine was...

    

      
Swap-out the TC 
      for a Vigilante, stall = 2800rpm; 
      

B&M Shift-Kit 
      (made absolutely no difference!); 
      

Swap-out the Pan 
      for a deeper,?air-tubed version from Derale; 
      

Replace all fluid 
      with RedLine Racing Fluid; 
      

?and fresh 
      K&N Filter (internal... never neglect this!) 


    
No more plans till 
    I get time to beef-up the engine more.? Transmission issues are closed 
    for the moment... dead-reliable status already achieved!

    
?

    
D.O. 
    


    

    

      
----- 
      Original Message ----- 

      
From: 
      Ted 
      Metzing 

      
To: 
      syty at syty.org 

      
Sent: 
      Thursday, June 28, 2007 2:13 PM

      
Subject: 
      [Syty] 700r4 trans

      


I got a few quick questions for everybody. My friend has a 
      1991 Camaro
and he's willing to sell me his 700r4 trans for like a 
      $100. Is there
any difference between that trans and the stock one in 
      my 1993 Ty? If
not, any recommendations on what upgrades to do to it 
      (please specify
brand names) like what torque convertor company to use 
      and is a 3000
stall ok, what shift kit should I use, and what trans 
      cooler should I
use? My Ty is pretty much stock except for minor mods 
      like setting
timing to 0, AFPR, re-routed intercooler lines (removing 
      the metal lines
for hoses), Ultimate chip, Walbro HP pump, scan tool, 
      cap/rotor, Iridium
NGK plugs, 8.5mm wires, etc. My Ty has 104,400 miles 
      on it, ran best of
13.36 @ 101 mph, 1.8? 60'. stock turbo @ 18 psi on 
      93 octane with a
little knock at full throttle (not sure if false 
      because of the
upshifts), fuel pressure @ 54 with vac line off, 32 lb 
      lucas green
stripe injectors. Any and all help welcome. Hope this will 
      create a
little discussion out there. Thanks again.

Ted 
      Metzing
93 Typhoon
06 TBSS
05 HD 
      V-rod

_______________________________________________
Syty 
      mailing list
Syty at syty.org
http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty




 





_______________________________________________
Syty mailing list
Syty at syty.org
http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty



 


________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone.  Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com.
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20070629/8ed5531d/attachment.html 

From seravilo at netzero.net  Fri Jun 29 11:06:24 2007
From: seravilo at netzero.net (DOlivares)
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2007 11:06:24 -0500
Subject: [Syty] 700r4 trans
References: <46840877.8060507@verizon.net>	<002a01c7b9e9$046c8d90$0b406b43@coresys1>	<46846395.7010100@verizon.net>
	<003d01c7ba44$47ed3960$09406b43@coresys1>
	<8C9887BFE141A5B-13A0-75B4@webmail-me02.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <006a01c7ba67$731c97c0$09406b43@coresys1>

Ah yes,

...the bully-boy adds his "ever-useful" snorts and flatulence... didn't take long to SMOKE him outta his pen!  Cockroaches are a lot like that.  Maybe we should find him a new nickname...?

Meanwhile, Ted, et al., you have a plain selection to choose from: 

Detailed reasoned advice based on 35 years of experience and erudition

vs.

Loud-mouthed blanket-denials and hostile generalities.

You be the judge....

D.O.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Daron 
  To: seravilo at netzero.net ; theodore.metzing at verizon.net 
  Cc: syty at syty.org 
  Sent: Friday, June 29, 2007 10:47 AM
  Subject: Re: [Syty] 700r4 trans


  Let me summarize... A 2800 stall is a decent compromise for a street driven truck with a reasonable horsepower goal.  Find a horsepower target and build your truck for that, not the other way around.  I mainly disagree with what dennis is "smokin,"  especially if we are talking female sheep...

  Daron



  -----Original Message-----
  From: DOlivares <seravilo at netzero.net>
  To: Ted Metzing <theodore.metzing at verizon.net>
  Cc: SYTY <syty at syty.org>
  Sent: Fri, 29 Jun 2007 6:54 am
  Subject: Re: [Syty] 700r4 trans


  Sure... "somewhat larger" should be fine, depending on what kind of LAUNCH you're trying to achieve... and how much extra gasoline you're willing to buy if you DON'T...
    a.. drive around town in Overdrive, and 
    b.. drive around town a lot above 42mph.
  Not to mention the extra HEAT a high-stall TC will contribute when NOT driving in OD... and assuming you haven't disabled your TCC-- good for performance, bad for heat and gas mileage!

  High-stalls on the street are for kids-- much like Trix (silly Rabbit!)-- and why I opted for something under 3000rpm when I ordered my Vigilante, whose primary selling point for me was its grippy, 4x clutch area.  I wanted extra insurance that the TCC would stay locked up in spite of assorted hiccups from the motor... wanted the good gas economy above 42mph.

  So unless you're building a track-only bracket machine or like harsh TCC-lock-ups, don't sweat the stall speed so much.  If you are trying to smoke tires to the exclusion of much else, MATCH your stall speed to the torque peak (rpm) you've already matched your cam and intake velocity to jointly achieve....

  Smoky Ewe-Nick 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    ----- Original Message ----- 
    From: Ted Metzing 
    To: DOlivares 
    Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 8:42 PM
    Subject: Re: [Syty] 700r4 trans


    Thanks D.O. for your suggestions. Will the 2800 stall TC be good enough for a somewhat larger turbo in the future like a PTE setup?

    Ted

    DOlivares wrote: 
      I don't know why the Camaro version of the 700R4 would be mechanically different from the version in your Ty.  All I did to mine was...
        a.. Swap-out the TC for a Vigilante, stall = 2800rpm; 
        b.. B&M Shift-Kit (made absolutely no difference!); 
        c.. Swap-out the Pan for a deeper, air-tubed version from Derale; 
        d.. Replace all fluid with RedLine Racing Fluid; 
        e..  and fresh K&N Filter (internal... never neglect this!) 
      No more plans till I get time to beef-up the engine more.  Transmission issues are closed for the moment... dead-reliable status already achieved!

      D.O. 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------

        ----- Original Message ----- 
        From: Ted Metzing 
        To: syty at syty.org 
        Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 2:13 PM
        Subject: [Syty] 700r4 trans


        I got a few quick questions for everybody. My friend has a 1991 Camaro
        and he's willing to sell me his 700r4 trans for like a $100. Is there
        any difference between that trans and the stock one in my 1993 Ty? If
        not, any recommendations on what upgrades to do to it (please specify
        brand names) like what torque convertor company to use and is a 3000
        stall ok, what shift kit should I use, and what trans cooler should I
        use? My Ty is pretty much stock except for minor mods like setting
        timing to 0, AFPR, re-routed intercooler lines (removing the metal lines
        for hoses), Ultimate chip, Walbro HP pump, scan tool, cap/rotor, Iridium
        NGK plugs, 8.5mm wires, etc. My Ty has 104,400 miles on it, ran best of
        13.36 @ 101 mph, 1.8? 60'. stock turbo @ 18 psi on 93 octane with a
        little knock at full throttle (not sure if false because of the
        upshifts), fuel pressure @ 54 with vac line off, 32 lb lucas green
        stripe injectors. Any and all help welcome. Hope this will create a
        little discussion out there. Thanks again.

        Ted Metzing
        93 Typhoon
        06 TBSS
        05 HD V-rod

        _______________________________________________
        Syty mailing list
        Syty at syty.org
        http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty

_______________________________________________
Syty mailing list
Syty at syty.org
http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty

------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com.
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20070629/f55761a4/attachment.html 

From theodore.metzing at verizon.net  Sat Jun 30 00:14:18 2007
From: theodore.metzing at verizon.net (Ted Metzing)
Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2007 01:14:18 -0400
Subject: [Syty] 700r4
Message-ID: <4685E6AA.5090505@verizon.net>

Wow! I hope I didn't start another flame war, but it's wonderful that 
you guys gave me a lot of good info on what to do. It's good to see the 
list active again, at least somewhat. Thanks again everybody for all the 
good info. Looking certain things up on the archives is too time 
consuming and a PITA when you need a "right now" answer.

Ted


From gary at thesantacruzhouse.com  Sat Jun 30 03:09:12 2007
From: gary at thesantacruzhouse.com (Gary H)
Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2007 01:09:12 -0700
Subject: [Syty] Re: SyTy
In-Reply-To: <003701c7b1c8$a2433ec0$0f406b43@coresys1>
References: <4676A864.9070208@thecrosbygroup.com>
	<003701c7b1c8$a2433ec0$0f406b43@coresys1>
Message-ID: <46860FA8.5010904@thesantacruzhouse.com>

Can you document/take pics of the valve stem seal R&R? I've been wanting 
to do this for some time and I think I'll have time this summer to work 
on the Ty.
Gary

DOlivares wrote:
> Nope,
>  
> At least I don't think so.  The engine/turbo has never been apart such 
> that I could have possibly left out a critical piece.  At better than 
> 140k miles, there's no question that a complete overhaul is in order, 
> but, recent smoke aside, it just runs so damn great!  Not enough 
> reason for a tear-down....
>  
> I thought about a turbo leak from the oil-supply line but couldn't 
> figure out the mechanism for so much oil to be getting into the 
> exhaust, especially /only at certain idle-times/:  Only after coming 
> off an extended cruise or burst if speed, at full operating temp (180 
> as I recall), and the engine winds down to idle speed does the 
> embarrassing smokescreen come up.  You should see all the dirt looks I 
> get from those Prius-owners!
>  
> However, I recently found that if I can keep the rpm up over 1200 at 
> stoplights and such, I can greatly minimize or even eliminate the 
> smoke problem!  This technique, combined with fresh 10W40 oil, a can 
> of /_STP_/ and a can of _/Restore/_, I only generate about 1/3 the 
> volume of smoke as I did last week in the worst-case scenario.  What's 
> more, now the smoke is practically ALL BLUE, whereas before it was 
> mostly WHITE... the difference between burning traditional, 
> mineral-based oil vs. Red Line synthetic...?  Who knows, after another 
> couple of weeks with these additives, I may even be able to reduce all 
> smoking to no more than one of my favorite Jamaican cigars! 
>  
> Meanwhile, I ordered a set of new valve-stem seals from RockAuto and 
> next week expect to replace at least the driver's-side bank of units 
> (the easier-to-remove valve cover), which theoretically should reduce 
> at least 50% of the smoke and maybe keep things stable enough for me 
> to wait to get another vehicle running, tagged, and insured so that I 
> can totally decommission Ol' Reliable Syclone #773 and start on its 
> dream-motor... titanium rods and all!
>  
> Stay tuned,
>  
> D.O.
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>     ----- Original Message -----
>     *From:* Steve Hatheway <mailto:stevehatheway at thecrosbygroup.com>
>     *To:* seravilo at netzero.net <mailto:seravilo at netzero.net>
>     *Sent:* Monday, June 18, 2007 10:44 AM
>     *Subject:* SyTy
>
>     Make sure you don't have a turbo seal out, they can real smoke alot.
>     Steve
>
>
>
>
>     Message: 1
>     Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2007 20:38:03 -0500
>     From: "DOlivares" <seravilo at netzero.net <mailto:seravilo at netzero.net>>
>     Subject: [Syty] Roller Rockers...
>     To: "SYTY" <syty at syty.org <mailto:syty at syty.org>>
>     Message-ID: <004901c7aeed$d2047c60$2f406b43 at coresys1
>     <mailto:004901c7aeed$d2047c60$2f406b43 at coresys1>>
>     Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"
>
>     My 'Clone's valve guides and/or seals have had it and I gotta do
>     something before the EPA-cops give me a ticket!  After coming to a
>     stop at a light or sign-- once the oil warms up... even 5W50!--
>     after a cruise, I get ENVELOPED in a pillar of cloud that is
>     reminiscent of Moses and the boys running around in the desert! 
>     This problem just crept up on me during the past few months and I
>     gotta do something fast.
>
>     Naturally, for me, a simple valve-seal repair isn't good enough. 
>     Here's my chance to pop-in my new injectors, convert to rollers,
>     and maybe even swap the heads!  Anybody know anything about
>     McCoy's "Stage 2" heads, now on sale for $495 (a pair or each?)
>     and why they're so much cheaper than the Stage 1s?
>
>     Anybody have any luck swapping-in ROLLER-ROCKERS, with new or
>     reused pushrods, on a stock set of heads?  (I did a Crane-swap-out
>     on my TTA many years ago-- Chevy self-centering units-- only to
>     break 2 of 'em when my CPU or ignition system went berserk and
>     misfired the whole engine and shredded my TCC....)
>
>     Thanx in advance,
>
>     D.O.
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> Syty mailing list
> Syty at syty.org
> http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty
>   



From seravilo at netzero.net  Sat Jun 30 12:02:14 2007
From: seravilo at netzero.net (DOlivares)
Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2007 12:02:14 -0500
Subject: [Syty] Valve-Cover Gaskets...?
References: <4676A864.9070208@thecrosbygroup.com>
	<003701c7b1c8$a2433ec0$0f406b43@coresys1>
	<46860FA8.5010904@thesantacruzhouse.com>
Message-ID: <001401c7bb38$69e07970$09406b43@coresys1>

Funny, your message hit just as I was doing some last-minute research on that very project!  Without back-up transportation, I have to make sure I can start early enough to get done before sundown and assuming I can get a break from the regular rainfall we've been getting.

I thought I had all my parts and tools lined up for the job, but now as I review the tech-manual I'm wondering about the GASKET for the valve cover.

Traditional American motors up through the mid-80s use cheesy gaskets that cook onto the heads and usually come apart upon removal after a number of years; however, I was delighted to find the embedded-type plastic gasket on my '89 Trans Am heads.  You don't even have to be that careful removing the cover; the gasket remains fixed and resilient in its channel.  Will the Syclone valve covers be the same, or do I need to order up a new set of gaskets before I get those covers off?  The Great Unknown!  Anybody out there with the answer?

You can see my anxiety.  If I hadn't been unpleasantly SURPRISED so many times in the past by such little, petty crap that grinds everything to a halt I wouldn't be such a conservative fuddy-duddy today....

I've also got some shortcuts in mind for this job... I hardly ever do anything by the book anymore.  Most of those procedures are written for the paranoid.  I'll try to keep up the record of what I end up doing....

D.O.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Gary H 
  To: DOlivares 
  Cc: Steve Hatheway ; SYTY 
  Sent: Saturday, June 30, 2007 3:09 AM
  Subject: Re: [Syty] Re: SyTy


  Can you document/take pics of the valve stem seal R&R? I've been wanting 
  to do this for some time and I think I'll have time this summer to work 
  on the Ty.
  Gary

  DOlivares wrote:
  > Nope,
  >  
  > At least I don't think so.  The engine/turbo has never been apart such 
  > that I could have possibly left out a critical piece.  At better than 
  > 140k miles, there's no question that a complete overhaul is in order, 
  > but, recent smoke aside, it just runs so damn great!  Not enough 
  > reason for a tear-down....
  >  
  > I thought about a turbo leak from the oil-supply line but couldn't 
  > figure out the mechanism for so much oil to be getting into the 
  > exhaust, especially /only at certain idle-times/:  Only after coming 
  > off an extended cruise or burst if speed, at full operating temp (180 
  > as I recall), and the engine winds down to idle speed does the 
  > embarrassing smokescreen come up.  You should see all the dirt looks I 
  > get from those Prius-owners!
  >  
  > However, I recently found that if I can keep the rpm up over 1200 at 
  > stoplights and such, I can greatly minimize or even eliminate the 
  > smoke problem!  This technique, combined with fresh 10W40 oil, a can 
  > of /_STP_/ and a can of _/Restore/_, I only generate about 1/3 the 
  > volume of smoke as I did last week in the worst-case scenario.  What's 
  > more, now the smoke is practically ALL BLUE, whereas before it was 
  > mostly WHITE... the difference between burning traditional, 
  > mineral-based oil vs. Red Line synthetic...?  Who knows, after another 
  > couple of weeks with these additives, I may even be able to reduce all 
  > smoking to no more than one of my favorite Jamaican cigars! 
  >  
  > Meanwhile, I ordered a set of new valve-stem seals from RockAuto and 
  > next week expect to replace at least the driver's-side bank of units 
  > (the easier-to-remove valve cover), which theoretically should reduce 
  > at least 50% of the smoke and maybe keep things stable enough for me 
  > to wait to get another vehicle running, tagged, and insured so that I 
  > can totally decommission Ol' Reliable Syclone #773 and start on its 
  > dream-motor... titanium rods and all!
  >  
  > Stay tuned,
  >  
  > D.O.
  > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
  >
  >     ----- Original Message -----
  >     *From:* Steve Hatheway <mailto:stevehatheway at thecrosbygroup.com>
  >     *To:* seravilo at netzero.net <mailto:seravilo at netzero.net>
  >     *Sent:* Monday, June 18, 2007 10:44 AM
  >     *Subject:* SyTy
  >
  >     Make sure you don't have a turbo seal out, they can real smoke alot.
  >     Steve
  >
  >
  >
  >
  >     Message: 1
  >     Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2007 20:38:03 -0500
  >     From: "DOlivares" <seravilo at netzero.net <mailto:seravilo at netzero.net>>
  >     Subject: [Syty] Roller Rockers...
  >     To: "SYTY" <syty at syty.org <mailto:syty at syty.org>>
  >     Message-ID: <004901c7aeed$d2047c60$2f406b43 at coresys1
  >     <mailto:004901c7aeed$d2047c60$2f406b43 at coresys1>>
  >     Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"
  >
  >     My 'Clone's valve guides and/or seals have had it and I gotta do
  >     something before the EPA-cops give me a ticket!  After coming to a
  >     stop at a light or sign-- once the oil warms up... even 5W50!--
  >     after a cruise, I get ENVELOPED in a pillar of cloud that is
  >     reminiscent of Moses and the boys running around in the desert! 
  >     This problem just crept up on me during the past few months and I
  >     gotta do something fast.
  >
  >     Naturally, for me, a simple valve-seal repair isn't good enough. 
  >     Here's my chance to pop-in my new injectors, convert to rollers,
  >     and maybe even swap the heads!  Anybody know anything about
  >     McCoy's "Stage 2" heads, now on sale for $495 (a pair or each?)
  >     and why they're so much cheaper than the Stage 1s?
  >
  >     Anybody have any luck swapping-in ROLLER-ROCKERS, with new or
  >     reused pushrods, on a stock set of heads?  (I did a Crane-swap-out
  >     on my TTA many years ago-- Chevy self-centering units-- only to
  >     break 2 of 'em when my CPU or ignition system went berserk and
  >     misfired the whole engine and shredded my TCC....)
  >
  >     Thanx in advance,
  >
  >     D.O.
  >
  > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
  >
  > _______________________________________________
  > Syty mailing list
  > Syty at syty.org
  > http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty
  >   

-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20070630/16b138c1/attachment.html 

From sytydave at gmail.com  Sat Jun 30 14:00:45 2007
From: sytydave at gmail.com (Dave Goodhue)
Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2007 15:00:45 -0400
Subject: [Syty] Valve-Cover Gaskets...?
In-Reply-To: <001401c7bb38$69e07970$09406b43@coresys1>
References: <4676A864.9070208@thecrosbygroup.com>
	<003701c7b1c8$a2433ec0$0f406b43@coresys1>
	<46860FA8.5010904@thesantacruzhouse.com>
	<001401c7bb38$69e07970$09406b43@coresys1>
Message-ID: <ba3beb080706301200m1c65ee58x65a45b0ba5bdbe96@mail.gmail.com>

On 6/30/07, DOlivares <seravilo at netzero.net> wrote:
>
>  Funny, your message hit just as I was doing some last-minute research on
> that very project!  Without back-up transportation, I have to make sure I
> can start early enough to get done before sundown and assuming I can get a
> break from the regular rainfall we've been getting.
>
> I thought I had all my parts and tools lined up for the job, but now as I
> review the tech-manual I'm wondering about the GASKET for the valve cover.
>
> Traditional American motors up through the mid-80s use cheesy gaskets that
> cook onto the heads and usually come apart upon removal after a number of
> years; however, I was delighted to find the *embedded-type plastic gasket*on my '89 Trans Am heads.  You don't even have to be that careful removing
> the cover; the gasket remains fixed and resilient in its channel.  *Will
> the Syclone valve covers be the same*, or do I need to order up a new set
> of gaskets before I get those covers off?  The Great Unknown!  *Anybody
> out there with the answer?*
>
> You can see my anxiety.  If I hadn't been unpleasantly SURPRISED so many
> times in the past by such little, petty crap that grinds everything to a
> halt I wouldn't be such a conservative fuddy-duddy today....
>
> I've also got some shortcuts in mind for this job... I hardly ever do
> anything by the book anymore.  Most of those procedures are written for the
> paranoid.  I'll try to keep up the record of what I end up doing....
>
> D.O.
>

The gaskets are rubber, that are supose to stick into the grove.  However,
the first time I did the valve cover without having the top end of the motor
they kept falling out.  I tried a new set of gasket without any luck (like a
couple hours of cursing), I ended up redo them becuase they were leaking.  I
ended up using 4 of those metal binder clips to hold the valve cover gaskets
in place until got the valve covers in place.  It worked great.

I think I bought something like this.

http://www.staples.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/StaplesProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10001&prodCatType=0&catalogId=10051&productId=143830&cmArea=SEARCH

To get the valve covers off they are pretty easy, driverside is harder to
do, the back nut on the MAP/EGR Solenoid, Coil, is a little challenging if
you don't want to pull the upper intake or distributor off, but its do
able.  You need to remove one of the Alternator bolts as well.  Passenger
side is basically the Upper IC.

As for doing the valve stem seals, I did mine with the top end apart, but I
am pretty sure I could do them with the valve covers off.  I was able to
adjust the valve with the engine running a short carboard shield to keep
splashing off the engine (make sure its warmed up first).  I was worried I
didn't adjust them properly following the comp cams article about finding
zero lash, but I had.

For the valve seals I would do it with an air compressor, spark plug air
fitting, and spring compressor.   I tried the 'rope trick' to hold up the
valves. It was no trick it took way to much time. The time it took me to do
#1 cylinder with rope I did 2-6 with an air compressor.  For doing the seals
themselves, myclone responded to me with a perfect description on how to do
them.  #5 was a little tight for the spring compressor with the brake
booster in the way, I had used a stamp steel spring compressor that my
father bought in the 60's.

http://www.syty.net/forums/showthread.php?t=11752

I used the comp cams website for finding zero lash, I think I did my valve
with 1/2 turn of preload.  I did them with the engine running as well, it
wasn't that hard either.
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20070630/4cc1c94c/attachment.html 

From seravilo at netzero.net  Thu Jun 14 20:38:03 2007
From: seravilo at netzero.net (DOlivares)
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2007 20:38:03 -0500
Subject: [Syty] Roller Rockers...
Message-ID: <004901c7aeed$d2047c60$2f406b43@coresys1>

My 'Clone's valve guides and/or seals have had it and I gotta do something before the EPA-cops give me a ticket!  After coming to a stop at a light or sign-- once the oil warms up... even 5W50!-- after a cruise, I get ENVELOPED in a pillar of cloud that is reminiscent of Moses and the boys running around in the desert!  This problem just crept up on me during the past few months and I gotta do something fast.

Naturally, for me, a simple valve-seal repair isn't good enough.  Here's my chance to pop-in my new injectors, convert to rollers, and maybe even swap the heads!  Anybody know anything about McCoy's "Stage 2" heads, now on sale for $495 (a pair or each?) and why they're so much cheaper than the Stage 1s?

Anybody have any luck swapping-in ROLLER-ROCKERS, with new or reused pushrods, on a stock set of heads?  (I did a Crane-swap-out on my TTA many years ago-- Chevy self-centering units-- only to break 2 of 'em when my CPU or ignition system went berserk and misfired the whole engine and shredded my TCC....)

Thanx in advance,

D.O.
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20070614/89bcdcbd/attachment-0001.html 

From seravilo at netzero.net  Thu Jun 14 20:52:50 2007
From: seravilo at netzero.net (DOlivares)
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2007 20:52:50 -0500
Subject: [Syty] Roller Rockers...
References: <720367.21724.qm@web51903.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <005101c7aeef$e2d00990$2f406b43@coresys1>

What model/brand?

I think 3.8L Buick (LC2 engine) uses the same valve gear as the Chevy 350 and the 4.3L Vortec uses Chevy 305 gear... or is it the other way around?

D.O.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: Roy Horton 
To: DOlivares 
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2007 8:49 PM
Subject: Re: [Syty] Roller Rockers...


I've read alot of stories about people being less then satisfied with McCoy heads.  I've never had them, but here's one story.

http://www.syty.net/forums/showthread.php?t=46639&highlight=mccoy+heads

I went with stock vortec's, you could always look into having a set worked over.

I've never put rollers on any of my heads yet, but a couple buddies have on their Sy's and IIRC they used the stock pushrods without any problems.

HTH,

Roy
DOlivares <seravilo at netzero.net> wrote:
  My 'Clone's valve guides and/or seals have had it and I gotta do something before the EPA-cops give me a ticket!  After coming to a stop at a light or sign-- once the oil warms up... even 5W50!-- after a cruise, I get ENVELOPED in a pillar of cloud that is reminiscent of Moses and the boys running around in the desert!  This problem just crept up on me during the past few months and I gotta do something fast.

  Naturally, for me, a simple valve-seal repair isn't good enough.  Here's my chance to pop-in my new injectors, convert to rollers, and maybe even swap the heads!  Anybody know anything about McCoy's "Stage 2" heads, now on sale for $495 (a pair or each?) and why they're so much cheaper than the Stage 1s?

  Anybody have any luck swapping-in ROLLER-ROCKERS, with new or reused pushrods, on a stock set of heads?  (I did a Crane-swap-out on my TTA many years ago-- Chevy self-centering units-- only to break 2 of 'em when my CPU or ignition system went berserk and misfired the whole engine and shredded my TCC....)

  Thanx in advance,

  D.O.

  _______________________________________________
  Syty mailing list
  Syty at syty.org
  http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty





--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Looking for a deal? Find great prices on flights and hotels with Yahoo! FareChase.
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20070614/e395931b/attachment-0001.html 

From undrcvr_camaro at yahoo.com  Fri Jun 15 00:36:49 2007
From: undrcvr_camaro at yahoo.com (A Murphy)
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2007 22:36:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Syty] Roller Rockers...
In-Reply-To: <004901c7aeed$d2047c60$2f406b43@coresys1>
Message-ID: <270546.28454.qm@web32701.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I put Crower narrow body roller rockers in my Typhoon. The pushrods had to be a little bit shorter than stock to keep the roller at the center of the valve stem. If you can find a set of 94-95 heads with casting numbers #10238181, or #10240209 they will be a bolt in replacement. Look in the junkyard for a 94 or 95 Bravada., thats where I found a pair. The stock valve covers fit even with the roller rockers.

Andrew

DOlivares <seravilo at netzero.net> wrote:       My 'Clone's valve  guides and/or seals have had it and I gotta do something before the EPA-cops  give me a ticket!  After coming to a stop at a light or sign-- once the oil  warms up... even 5W50!-- after a cruise, I get ENVELOPED in a pillar of cloud  that is reminiscent of Moses and the boys running around in the desert!   This problem just crept up on me during the past few months and I gotta do  something fast.
  
 Naturally, for me, a  simple valve-seal repair isn't good enough.  Here's my chance to pop-in my  new injectors, convert to rollers, and maybe even swap the heads!  Anybody  know anything about McCoy's "Stage 2" heads, now on sale for $495 (a pair or  each?) and why they're so much cheaper than the Stage 1s?
  
 Anybody have any luck  swapping-in ROLLER-ROCKERS, with new or reused pushrods, on a stock set of  heads?  (I did a Crane-swap-out on my TTA many years ago-- Chevy  self-centering units-- only to break 2 of 'em when my CPU or ignition system  went berserk and misfired the whole engine and shredded my TCC....)
  
 Thanx in  advance,
  
 D.O.
  
_______________________________________________
Syty mailing list
Syty at syty.org
http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty


       
---------------------------------
Choose the right car based on your needs.  Check out Yahoo! Autos new Car Finder tool.
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20070614/a95c733e/attachment-0001.html 

From sytydave at gmail.com  Fri Jun 15 06:59:47 2007
From: sytydave at gmail.com (Dave Goodhue)
Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2007 07:59:47 -0400
Subject: [Syty] Roller Rockers...
In-Reply-To: <ba3beb080706150459u20e8d316oead53f7a3f3f2a51@mail.gmail.com>
References: <004901c7aeed$d2047c60$2f406b43@coresys1>
	<270546.28454.qm@web32701.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<ba3beb080706150459u20e8d316oead53f7a3f3f2a51@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <ba3beb080706150459i14f07ba0x3f1fa0cce105ba98@mail.gmail.com>

>What model/brand?

>I think 3.8L Buick (LC2 engine) uses the same valve gear as the Chevy
350 and the 4.3L >Vortec uses Chevy 305 gear... or is it the other way
around?

The Buick LC2 has shaft mounted rockers.   The 4.3 is similliar to the
305/350  (305 is just a small bore 350)  The 4.3 is basically a 3/4
350, sharing the same bore and stoke.  (Tidbit of info, the 229 V6
Chevy is an 3/4 oddfire 305.)

Anyway I used a Crane Gold narrow body rockers and they worked just
fine, clear the valve covers fine.  As for Vortecs, typically the
lower intake needs to be modifed (extended to cover the longer ports)
and the heads will need to be redilled as the intake bolts have a
different pattern.  Vortec also have metric screw in studs, while most
SBC aftermarket rocker are based on english threads.  The easiest
solution is have the head redrilled and tapped for the english thread,
so you can use common SBC studs and rockers.


From seravilo at netzero.net  Fri Jun 15 16:56:23 2007
From: seravilo at netzero.net (DOlivares)
Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2007 16:56:23 -0500
Subject: [Syty] Roller Rockers...
References: <004901c7aeed$d2047c60$2f406b43@coresys1><270546.28454.qm@web32701.mail.mud.yahoo.com><ba3beb080706150459u20e8d316oead53f7a3f3f2a51@mail.gmail.com>
	<ba3beb080706150459i14f07ba0x3f1fa0cce105ba98@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <002001c7af98$04ef4d30$31406b43@coresys1>

You're RIGHT about that LC2 stuff.  I've been reading too many back-issues of GM High-Tech Performance without mentally correcting for the 3800-series heads they (i.e., PAS) slapped on the Grand National LC2s for the Turbo Trans Am application.  Those heads took Corvette-type self-centering roller-rockers (I used Cranes... pedestals, no shafts) with what I remember was somewhat shorter pushrods (which I always get from Crower).  Maybe I'll try to locate some of those spares (had to buy a full set of 16) and see if I can't make 'em work.  I've never had those valve-covers off since I bought the Sy or the Ty.

For your well-deserved reward, I'll now pass on an arcane design tip for custom-engine builders (as I used to be):  When converting to Rollers, get a test-pushrod and weak-spring to mount the valve/retainer.  Vary the length of that 'rod keeping 2 key rules in mind to ensure reliability and high-RPM stability:
  1.. Keep the Rocker Arm as "low" as possible... as close to the basenut or pedestal base as possible without any part of the Arm touching it... to avoid galling, AND
  2.. At 40% of the total valve lift off its seat, the centerline of the roller-tip should be directly over the exact middle of the face of the valve tip (or lash-cap, if you use those).
When both of those conditions are met, you have your perfect length for your pushrod.  True purists and the ultra-fastidious, who don't trust replicated head geometry throughout both heads, would want to repeat this exercise for each rocker/valve/pushrod combination and then generate a screwball order for up to 12 different pushrods.  Good luck trying to keep all the matched-set markings straight!

Yes, yes, we all know about roller-rockers affording lower levels of friction and pumping losses, but they really come into their own by bestowing longevity to the integrity of your valve guides and their seals.  By rolling over the valve tips instead of sliding/grinding over the same, they virtually eliminate that ferocious side-loading of the valve stem which gradually turns those nice, tight cylindrical guide passages into nasty, OVAL'd holes which can get bad enough to cause the whole valve to rattle and wobble as it tries to seat/bounce under spring pressure!  How I wish I had converted back in '98 when I bought that Syclone!  My seals would still be holding all that oil in the top of the cylinder heads instead of being sucked down into the ovaled-out intakes....

Gotta go,

D.O.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



----- Original Message ----- 
From: Dave Goodhue 
To: Syty at syty.org 
Sent: Friday, June 15, 2007 6:59 AM
Subject: [Syty] Roller Rockers...


>What model/brand?

>I think 3.8L Buick (LC2 engine) uses the same valve gear as the Chevy
350 and the 4.3L >Vortec uses Chevy 305 gear... or is it the other way
around?

The Buick LC2 has shaft mounted rockers.   The 4.3 is similliar to the
305/350  (305 is just a small bore 350)  The 4.3 is basically a 3/4
350, sharing the same bore and stoke.  (Tidbit of info, the 229 V6
Chevy is an 3/4 oddfire 305.)

Anyway I used a Crane Gold narrow body rockers and they worked just
fine, clear the valve covers fine.  As for Vortecs, typically the
lower intake needs to be modifed (extended to cover the longer ports)
and the heads will need to be redilled as the intake bolts have a
different pattern.  Vortec also have metric screw in studs, while most
SBC aftermarket rocker are based on english threads.  The easiest
solution is have the head redrilled and tapped for the english thread,
so you can use common SBC studs and rockers.
_______________________________________________
Syty mailing list
Syty at syty.org
http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20070615/828ca38b/attachment-0001.html 

From seravilo at netzero.net  Mon Jun 18 11:49:24 2007
From: seravilo at netzero.net (DOlivares)
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2007 11:49:24 -0500
Subject: [Syty] Re: SyTy
References: <4676A864.9070208@thecrosbygroup.com>
Message-ID: <003701c7b1c8$a2433ec0$0f406b43@coresys1>

Nope,

At least I don't think so.  The engine/turbo has never been apart such that I could have possibly left out a critical piece.  At better than 140k miles, there's no question that a complete overhaul is in order, but, recent smoke aside, it just runs so damn great!  Not enough reason for a tear-down....

I thought about a turbo leak from the oil-supply line but couldn't figure out the mechanism for so much oil to be getting into the exhaust, especially only at certain idle-times:  Only after coming off an extended cruise or burst if speed, at full operating temp (180 as I recall), and the engine winds down to idle speed does the embarrassing smokescreen come up.  You should see all the dirt looks I get from those Prius-owners!

However, I recently found that if I can keep the rpm up over 1200 at stoplights and such, I can greatly minimize or even eliminate the smoke problem!  This technique, combined with fresh 10W40 oil, a can of STP and a can of Restore, I only generate about 1/3 the volume of smoke as I did last week in the worst-case scenario.  What's more, now the smoke is practically ALL BLUE, whereas before it was mostly WHITE... the difference between burning traditional, mineral-based oil vs. Red Line synthetic...?  Who knows, after another couple of weeks with these additives, I may even be able to reduce all smoking to no more than one of my favorite Jamaican cigars!  

Meanwhile, I ordered a set of new valve-stem seals from RockAuto and next week expect to replace at least the driver's-side bank of units (the easier-to-remove valve cover), which theoretically should reduce at least 50% of the smoke and maybe keep things stable enough for me to wait to get another vehicle running, tagged, and insured so that I can totally decommission Ol' Reliable Syclone #773 and start on its dream-motor... titanium rods and all!

Stay tuned,

D.O.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Steve Hatheway 
  To: seravilo at netzero.net 
  Sent: Monday, June 18, 2007 10:44 AM
  Subject: SyTy


  Make sure you don't have a turbo seal out, they can real smoke alot.
  Steve




  Message: 1
  Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2007 20:38:03 -0500
  From: "DOlivares" <seravilo at netzero.net>
  Subject: [Syty] Roller Rockers...
  To: "SYTY" <syty at syty.org>
  Message-ID: <004901c7aeed$d2047c60$2f406b43 at coresys1>
  Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"

  My 'Clone's valve guides and/or seals have had it and I gotta do something before the EPA-cops give me a ticket!  After coming to a stop at a light or sign-- once the oil warms up... even 5W50!-- after a cruise, I get ENVELOPED in a pillar of cloud that is reminiscent of Moses and the boys running around in the desert!  This problem just crept up on me during the past few months and I gotta do something fast.

  Naturally, for me, a simple valve-seal repair isn't good enough.  Here's my chance to pop-in my new injectors, convert to rollers, and maybe even swap the heads!  Anybody know anything about McCoy's "Stage 2" heads, now on sale for $495 (a pair or each?) and why they're so much cheaper than the Stage 1s?

  Anybody have any luck swapping-in ROLLER-ROCKERS, with new or reused pushrods, on a stock set of heads?  (I did a Crane-swap-out on my TTA many years ago-- Chevy self-centering units-- only to break 2 of 'em when my CPU or ignition system went berserk and misfired the whole engine and shredded my TCC....)

  Thanx in advance,

  D.O.

-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20070618/8c59ccb7/attachment-0001.html 

From theodore.metzing at verizon.net  Thu Jun 28 14:13:59 2007
From: theodore.metzing at verizon.net (Ted Metzing)
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2007 15:13:59 -0400
Subject: [Syty] 700r4 trans
Message-ID: <46840877.8060507@verizon.net>

I got a few quick questions for everybody. My friend has a 1991 Camaro
and he's willing to sell me his 700r4 trans for like a $100. Is there
any difference between that trans and the stock one in my 1993 Ty? If
not, any recommendations on what upgrades to do to it (please specify
brand names) like what torque convertor company to use and is a 3000
stall ok, what shift kit should I use, and what trans cooler should I
use? My Ty is pretty much stock except for minor mods like setting
timing to 0, AFPR, re-routed intercooler lines (removing the metal lines
for hoses), Ultimate chip, Walbro HP pump, scan tool, cap/rotor, Iridium
NGK plugs, 8.5mm wires, etc. My Ty has 104,400 miles on it, ran best of
13.36 @ 101 mph, 1.8? 60'. stock turbo @ 18 psi on 93 octane with a
little knock at full throttle (not sure if false because of the
upshifts), fuel pressure @ 54 with vac line off, 32 lb lucas green
stripe injectors. Any and all help welcome. Hope this will create a
little discussion out there. Thanks again.

Ted Metzing
93 Typhoon
06 TBSS
05 HD V-rod



From seravilo at netzero.net  Thu Jun 28 20:01:21 2007
From: seravilo at netzero.net (DOlivares)
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2007 20:01:21 -0500
Subject: [Syty] 700r4 trans
References: <46840877.8060507@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <002a01c7b9e9$046c8d90$0b406b43@coresys1>

I don't know why the Camaro version of the 700R4 would be mechanically different from the version in your Ty.  All I did to mine was...
  a.. Swap-out the TC for a Vigilante, stall = 2800rpm;
  b.. B&M Shift-Kit (made absolutely no difference!);
  c.. Swap-out the Pan for a deeper, air-tubed version from Derale; 
  d.. Replace all fluid with RedLine Racing Fluid;
  e..  and fresh K&N Filter (internal... never neglect this!)
No more plans till I get time to beef-up the engine more.  Transmission issues are closed for the moment... dead-reliable status already achieved!

D.O.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Ted Metzing 
  To: syty at syty.org 
  Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 2:13 PM
  Subject: [Syty] 700r4 trans


  I got a few quick questions for everybody. My friend has a 1991 Camaro
  and he's willing to sell me his 700r4 trans for like a $100. Is there
  any difference between that trans and the stock one in my 1993 Ty? If
  not, any recommendations on what upgrades to do to it (please specify
  brand names) like what torque convertor company to use and is a 3000
  stall ok, what shift kit should I use, and what trans cooler should I
  use? My Ty is pretty much stock except for minor mods like setting
  timing to 0, AFPR, re-routed intercooler lines (removing the metal lines
  for hoses), Ultimate chip, Walbro HP pump, scan tool, cap/rotor, Iridium
  NGK plugs, 8.5mm wires, etc. My Ty has 104,400 miles on it, ran best of
  13.36 @ 101 mph, 1.8? 60'. stock turbo @ 18 psi on 93 octane with a
  little knock at full throttle (not sure if false because of the
  upshifts), fuel pressure @ 54 with vac line off, 32 lb lucas green
  stripe injectors. Any and all help welcome. Hope this will create a
  little discussion out there. Thanks again.

  Ted Metzing
  93 Typhoon
  06 TBSS
  05 HD V-rod

  _______________________________________________
  Syty mailing list
  Syty at syty.org
  http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20070628/4b73676d/attachment-0001.html 

From sytydave at gmail.com  Thu Jun 28 20:43:18 2007
From: sytydave at gmail.com (Dave Goodhue)
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2007 21:43:18 -0400
Subject: [Syty] 700r4 trans
In-Reply-To: <002a01c7b9e9$046c8d90$0b406b43@coresys1>
References: <46840877.8060507@verizon.net>
	<002a01c7b9e9$046c8d90$0b406b43@coresys1>
Message-ID: <ba3beb080706281843j73a6d57i459b7ebfdf6fe219@mail.gmail.com>

The SyTy transmission is basically a Corvette Transmission with 4x4
tailshaft, output shaft and a stiffer/better shifting Valve Body.  The
F-body tranmission doesn't have all the Corvette upgrades, including
the WOT 3-4 shift.  You would to swap tailshafts (easy) and output
shaft not easy.  Swapping the output shaft require 95% tear down of
the f-body transmission.  You might as well rebuildit while your at
it.  Infact I would just rebuild the Ty tranmission.  If you want
something with out any down time get a 4x4 700r4 from 88-93, rebuild
it with the corvette servo and couple of upgrades.  Grab the Valve
body, seperator plate, Servo and governor from your Ty transmission
and install those items.


On 6/28/07, DOlivares <seravilo at netzero.net> wrote:
>
> I don't know why the Camaro version of the 700R4 would be mechanically
> different from the version in your Ty.  All I did to mine was...
>
> Swap-out the TC for a Vigilante, stall = 2800rpm;
> B&M Shift-Kit (made absolutely no difference!);
> Swap-out the Pan for a deeper, air-tubed version from Derale;
> Replace all fluid with RedLine Racing Fluid;
>  and fresh K&N Filter (internal... never neglect this!)
> No more plans till I get time to beef-up the engine more.  Transmission
> issues are closed for the moment... dead-reliable status already achieved!
>
> D.O. ________________________________
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Ted Metzing
> To: syty at syty.org
> Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 2:13 PM
> Subject: [Syty] 700r4 trans
>
> I got a few quick questions for everybody. My friend has a 1991 Camaro
> and he's willing to sell me his 700r4 trans for like a $100. Is there
> any difference between that trans and the stock one in my 1993 Ty? If
> not, any recommendations on what upgrades to do to it (please specify
> brand names) like what torque convertor company to use and is a 3000
> stall ok, what shift kit should I use, and what trans cooler should I
> use? My Ty is pretty much stock except for minor mods like setting
> timing to 0, AFPR, re-routed intercooler lines (removing the metal lines
> for hoses), Ultimate chip, Walbro HP pump, scan tool, cap/rotor, Iridium
> NGK plugs, 8.5mm wires, etc. My Ty has 104,400 miles on it, ran best of
> 13.36 @ 101 mph, 1.8? 60'. stock turbo @ 18 psi on 93 octane with a
> little knock at full throttle (not sure if false because of the
> upshifts), fuel pressure @ 54 with vac line off, 32 lb lucas green
> stripe injectors. Any and all help welcome. Hope this will create a
> little discussion out there. Thanks again.
>
> Ted Metzing
> 93 Typhoon
> 06 TBSS
> 05 HD V-rod
>
> _______________________________________________
> Syty mailing list
> Syty at syty.org
> http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty
>
> _______________________________________________
> Syty mailing list
> Syty at syty.org
> http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty
>
>


From turbodig at yahoo.com  Thu Jun 28 21:23:29 2007
From: turbodig at yahoo.com (Dig)
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2007 19:23:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Syty] RE:700R4
Message-ID: <112140.32845.qm@web35308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

SyTy has a specific output shaft (unique to SyTy), completely different valve body calibration and separator plate, 2/4 servos, and most likely the governor.

It could be converted, but it would be just as easy to rebuild the stocker. And you'd know what you have.

Might be good to have the camaro one for core. It's hand to have an extra pump that you can send for machining, have one ready to go when you're ready to put things back together.

Dig

-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20070628/b1860491/attachment-0001.html 

From MCole at sta.samsung.com  Thu Jun 28 22:38:49 2007
From: MCole at sta.samsung.com (Marion Cole)
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2007 22:38:49 -0500
Subject: [Syty] RE:700R4
In-Reply-To: <112140.32845.qm@web35308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4A2DFEA767C0CB4396FF2CE75559A48801A9FAF9@mx2.telecom.sna.samsung.com>

I replaced the transmission in my Syclone six years ago. I bought a
replacement from Chevrolet for $850. Several experts on the LIST advised
me not to go this way but my thinking was that a stock tranny had served
me well and I had no major upgrades to the engine. It was rebuilt with
Eagle Rods and KB Pistons but is basically stock. That transmission has
served me with no problems. When I replaced the tranny, I also installed
the stock TC that came with it. The TC I had in place was one from The
Converter Shop. The reason the tranny broke was I had it in OD and was
going slow behind a garbage truck and floored it to pass the truck.
Tranny went BAM. Most probably blew out the forward sprag. Truck would
still work in all gears and I drove it for a couple of weeks. I live
just north of Dallas in McKinney, TX. If anyone would be interested in a
700 core and TCS converter (this was what many were using six years ago)
please send an email. The TC I have was only used from the time I
rebuilt the engine to the tranny problem (around 15K miles). I used a
stock when I replaced the tranny because I found a stock TC to be a
smoother ride over the TCS TC. I was later informed that the ride would
have been better if I had modified a metering rod in the tranny.

 

I'm making tranny and TC available because they have just been sitting
gathering dust for six years. Again the tranny did work but something is
broke BUT if you are planning to build a tougher tranny, you would be
replacing the stock parts that are broke anyway. I do not remember what
I paid for the TC but I'll offer both for $250 (About what I paid for
the TC) if anyone in Dallas area has an interest. I'm not interested in
buying the crate necessary to ship. I think some of the tranny experts
could use this core and about $500 in parts to build a strong
Street/Strip unit. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder and many may
think its outrageous that I offer a used TC and broke tranny for sale.
I'm simply trying to find out if anyone would have interest. Does anyone
need or want this? I do not care if anyone buys it. I'm just trying to
help someone that might have a need. As I stated it has been sitting for
a long time and I'm just letting the LIST know just in case someone
wants a tranny CORE and TCS TC.

________________________________

From: syty-bounces at syty.org [mailto:syty-bounces at syty.org] On Behalf Of
Dig
Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 9:23 PM
To: syty at syty.org
Subject: [Syty] RE:700R4

 

SyTy has a specific output shaft (unique to SyTy), completely different
valve body calibration and separator plate, 2/4 servos, and most likely
the governor.

It could be converted, but it would be just as easy to rebuild the
stocker. And you'd know what you have.

Might be good to have the camaro one for core. It's hand to have an
extra pump that you can send for machining, have one ready to go when
you're ready to put things back together.

Dig

-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20070628/e8db0b46/attachment-0001.html 

From seravilo at netzero.net  Fri Jun 29 05:57:15 2007
From: seravilo at netzero.net (DOlivares)
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2007 05:57:15 -0500
Subject: [Syty] 700r4 trans
References: <46840877.8060507@verizon.net>
	<002a01c7b9e9$046c8d90$0b406b43@coresys1>
	<ba3beb080706281843j73a6d57i459b7ebfdf6fe219@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <001901c7ba3c$423fa5a0$09406b43@coresys1>

Great analysis!

I never got much beyond Chrysler 904/998/727 TorqueFlites for that kind of detail.  Beyond fiddling with governor-springs, shift-kits (no wonder that B&M Kit made no difference!), TC-swaps, vac-modulator tweaks, and cooling tech, I never got that much "into" GM trannies.

Do the same specs apply to the Syclone Transmissions?

Thanx again,

D.O.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Dave Goodhue 
  To: DOlivares 
  Cc: Ted Metzing ; syty at syty.org 
  Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 8:43 PM
  Subject: Re: [Syty] 700r4 trans


  The SyTy transmission is basically a Corvette Transmission with 4x4
  tailshaft, output shaft and a stiffer/better shifting Valve Body.  The
  F-body tranmission doesn't have all the Corvette upgrades, including
  the WOT 3-4 shift.  You would to swap tailshafts (easy) and output
  shaft not easy.  Swapping the output shaft require 95% tear down of
  the f-body transmission.  You might as well rebuildit while your at
  it.  Infact I would just rebuild the Ty tranmission.  If you want
  something with out any down time get a 4x4 700r4 from 88-93, rebuild
  it with the corvette servo and couple of upgrades.  Grab the Valve
  body, seperator plate, Servo and governor from your Ty transmission
  and install those items.


  On 6/28/07, DOlivares <seravilo at netzero.net> wrote:
  >
  > I don't know why the Camaro version of the 700R4 would be mechanically
  > different from the version in your Ty.  All I did to mine was...
  >
  > Swap-out the TC for a Vigilante, stall = 2800rpm;
  > B&M Shift-Kit (made absolutely no difference!);
  > Swap-out the Pan for a deeper, air-tubed version from Derale;
  > Replace all fluid with RedLine Racing Fluid;
  >  and fresh K&N Filter (internal... never neglect this!)
  > No more plans till I get time to beef-up the engine more.  Transmission
  > issues are closed for the moment... dead-reliable status already achieved!
  >
  > D.O. ________________________________
  >
  >
  >
  > ----- Original Message -----
  > From: Ted Metzing
  > To: syty at syty.org
  > Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 2:13 PM
  > Subject: [Syty] 700r4 trans
  >
  > I got a few quick questions for everybody. My friend has a 1991 Camaro
  > and he's willing to sell me his 700r4 trans for like a $100. Is there
  > any difference between that trans and the stock one in my 1993 Ty? If
  > not, any recommendations on what upgrades to do to it (please specify
  > brand names) like what torque convertor company to use and is a 3000
  > stall ok, what shift kit should I use, and what trans cooler should I
  > use? My Ty is pretty much stock except for minor mods like setting
  > timing to 0, AFPR, re-routed intercooler lines (removing the metal lines
  > for hoses), Ultimate chip, Walbro HP pump, scan tool, cap/rotor, Iridium
  > NGK plugs, 8.5mm wires, etc. My Ty has 104,400 miles on it, ran best of
  > 13.36 @ 101 mph, 1.8? 60'. stock turbo @ 18 psi on 93 octane with a
  > little knock at full throttle (not sure if false because of the
  > upshifts), fuel pressure @ 54 with vac line off, 32 lb lucas green
  > stripe injectors. Any and all help welcome. Hope this will create a
  > little discussion out there. Thanks again.
  >
  > Ted Metzing
  > 93 Typhoon
  > 06 TBSS
  > 05 HD V-rod
  >
  > _______________________________________________
  > Syty mailing list
  > Syty at syty.org
  > http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty
  >
  > _______________________________________________
  > Syty mailing list
  > Syty at syty.org
  > http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty
  >
  >
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20070629/fc7129f2/attachment-0001.html 

From seravilo at netzero.net  Fri Jun 29 06:15:44 2007
From: seravilo at netzero.net (DOlivares)
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2007 06:15:44 -0500
Subject: [Syty] RE:700R4
References: <4A2DFEA767C0CB4396FF2CE75559A48801A9FAF9@mx2.telecom.sna.samsung.com>
Message-ID: <002c01c7ba3e$d81c9900$09406b43@coresys1>

I'll keep you in mind...

I live in San Antonio and have got upwards of 140kmiles on Sy #773.  Eventually, I'm gonna have to tear something down and it's good to be shopping for rare parts and cores 'cause I work better (whenever I can manage it these distracted daze) on a trans or longblock on a nice STAND or bench without the pressure and clutter of a engine-stripped hulk lying around and accusing me!  Better to swap-in a fresh, correctly built engine in one step!  And best to keep a project car MOBILE for as long as possible before a major transplant-- spoken as an EXPERT... who's got 3 vehicles lying around in various states of disassembly and a lo-o-o-o-o-ong way from any kind of street-worthy state.

D.O.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Marion Cole 
  To: Dig ; syty at syty.org 
  Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 10:38 PM
  Subject: RE: [Syty] RE:700R4


  I replaced the transmission in my Syclone six years ago. I bought a replacement from Chevrolet for $850. Several experts on the LIST advised me not to go this way but my thinking was that a stock tranny had served me well and I had no major upgrades to the engine. It was rebuilt with Eagle Rods and KB Pistons but is basically stock. That transmission has served me with no problems. When I replaced the tranny, I also installed the stock TC that came with it. The TC I had in place was one from The Converter Shop. The reason the tranny broke was I had it in OD and was going slow behind a garbage truck and floored it to pass the truck. Tranny went BAM. Most probably blew out the forward sprag. Truck would still work in all gears and I drove it for a couple of weeks. I live just north of Dallas in McKinney, TX. If anyone would be interested in a 700 core and TCS converter (this was what many were using six years ago) please send an email. The TC I have was only used from the time I rebuilt the engine to the tranny problem (around 15K miles). I used a stock when I replaced the tranny because I found a stock TC to be a smoother ride over the TCS TC. I was later informed that the ride would have been better if I had modified a metering rod in the tranny.

   

  I'm making tranny and TC available because they have just been sitting gathering dust for six years. Again the tranny did work but something is broke BUT if you are planning to build a tougher tranny, you would be replacing the stock parts that are broke anyway. I do not remember what I paid for the TC but I'll offer both for $250 (About what I paid for the TC) if anyone in Dallas area has an interest. I'm not interested in buying the crate necessary to ship. I think some of the tranny experts could use this core and about $500 in parts to build a strong Street/Strip unit. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder and many may think its outrageous that I offer a used TC and broke tranny for sale. I'm simply trying to find out if anyone would have interest. Does anyone need or want this? I do not care if anyone buys it. I'm just trying to help someone that might have a need. As I stated it has been sitting for a long time and I'm just letting the LIST know just in case someone wants a tranny CORE and TCS TC.


------------------------------------------------------------------------------

  From: syty-bounces at syty.org [mailto:syty-bounces at syty.org] On Behalf Of Dig
  Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 9:23 PM
  To: syty at syty.org
  Subject: [Syty] RE:700R4

   

  SyTy has a specific output shaft (unique to SyTy), completely different valve body calibration and separator plate, 2/4 servos, and most likely the governor.

  It could be converted, but it would be just as easy to rebuild the stocker. And you'd know what you have.

  Might be good to have the camaro one for core. It's hand to have an extra pump that you can send for machining, have one ready to go when you're ready to put things back together.

  Dig



------------------------------------------------------------------------------


  _______________________________________________
  Syty mailing list
  Syty at syty.org
  http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20070629/16728d1d/attachment-0001.html 

From seravilo at netzero.net  Fri Jun 29 06:54:40 2007
From: seravilo at netzero.net (DOlivares)
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2007 06:54:40 -0500
Subject: [Syty] 700r4 trans
References: <46840877.8060507@verizon.net>
	<002a01c7b9e9$046c8d90$0b406b43@coresys1>
	<46846395.7010100@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <003d01c7ba44$47ed3960$09406b43@coresys1>

Sure... "somewhat larger" should be fine, depending on what kind of LAUNCH you're trying to achieve... and how much extra gasoline you're willing to buy if you DON'T...
  a.. drive around town in Overdrive, and
  b.. drive around town a lot above 42mph.
Not to mention the extra HEAT a high-stall TC will contribute when NOT driving in OD... and assuming you haven't disabled your TCC-- good for performance, bad for heat and gas mileage!

High-stalls on the street are for kids-- much like Trix (silly Rabbit!)-- and why I opted for something under 3000rpm when I ordered my Vigilante, whose primary selling point for me was its grippy, 4x clutch area.  I wanted extra insurance that the TCC would stay locked up in spite of assorted hiccups from the motor... wanted the good gas economy above 42mph.

So unless you're building a track-only bracket machine or like harsh TCC-lock-ups, don't sweat the stall speed so much.  If you are trying to smoke tires to the exclusion of much else, MATCH your stall speed to the torque peak (rpm) you've already matched your cam and intake velocity to jointly achieve....

Smoky Ewe-Nick
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Ted Metzing 
  To: DOlivares 
  Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 8:42 PM
  Subject: Re: [Syty] 700r4 trans


  Thanks D.O. for your suggestions. Will the 2800 stall TC be good enough for a somewhat larger turbo in the future like a PTE setup?

  Ted

  DOlivares wrote: 
    I don't know why the Camaro version of the 700R4 would be mechanically different from the version in your Ty.  All I did to mine was...
      a.. Swap-out the TC for a Vigilante, stall = 2800rpm; 
      b.. B&M Shift-Kit (made absolutely no difference!); 
      c.. Swap-out the Pan for a deeper, air-tubed version from Derale; 
      d.. Replace all fluid with RedLine Racing Fluid; 
      e..  and fresh K&N Filter (internal... never neglect this!) 
    No more plans till I get time to beef-up the engine more.  Transmission issues are closed for the moment... dead-reliable status already achieved!

    D.O. 
----------------------------------------------------------------------------

      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: Ted Metzing 
      To: syty at syty.org 
      Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 2:13 PM
      Subject: [Syty] 700r4 trans


      I got a few quick questions for everybody. My friend has a 1991 Camaro
      and he's willing to sell me his 700r4 trans for like a $100. Is there
      any difference between that trans and the stock one in my 1993 Ty? If
      not, any recommendations on what upgrades to do to it (please specify
      brand names) like what torque convertor company to use and is a 3000
      stall ok, what shift kit should I use, and what trans cooler should I
      use? My Ty is pretty much stock except for minor mods like setting
      timing to 0, AFPR, re-routed intercooler lines (removing the metal lines
      for hoses), Ultimate chip, Walbro HP pump, scan tool, cap/rotor, Iridium
      NGK plugs, 8.5mm wires, etc. My Ty has 104,400 miles on it, ran best of
      13.36 @ 101 mph, 1.8? 60'. stock turbo @ 18 psi on 93 octane with a
      little knock at full throttle (not sure if false because of the
      upshifts), fuel pressure @ 54 with vac line off, 32 lb lucas green
      stripe injectors. Any and all help welcome. Hope this will create a
      little discussion out there. Thanks again.

      Ted Metzing
      93 Typhoon
      06 TBSS
      05 HD V-rod

      _______________________________________________
      Syty mailing list
      Syty at syty.org
      http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20070629/a684b8e4/attachment-0001.html 

From bullyhart at aol.com  Fri Jun 29 10:47:54 2007
From: bullyhart at aol.com (Daron)
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2007 11:47:54 -0400
Subject: [Syty] 700r4 trans
In-Reply-To: <003d01c7ba44$47ed3960$09406b43@coresys1>
References: <46840877.8060507@verizon.net>	<002a01c7b9e9$046c8d90$0b406b43@coresys1>	<46846395.7010100@verizon.net>
	<003d01c7ba44$47ed3960$09406b43@coresys1>
Message-ID: <8C9887BFE141A5B-13A0-75B4@webmail-me02.sysops.aol.com>


 Let me summarize... A 2800 stall is a decent compromise for a street driven truck with a reasonable horsepower goal.? Find a horsepower target and build your truck for that, not the other way around.? I mainly disagree with what dennis is "smokin,"? especially if we are talking female sheep...


 Daron


 

-----Original Message-----
From: DOlivares <seravilo at netzero.net>
To: Ted Metzing <theodore.metzing at verizon.net>
Cc: SYTY <syty at syty.org>
Sent: Fri, 29 Jun 2007 6:54 am
Subject: Re: [Syty] 700r4 trans














Sure... "somewhat 
larger" should be fine, depending on what kind of LAUNCH you're 
trying to achieve... and how much extra gasoline you're willing to buy if you 
DON'T...



  
drive around town in 
  Overdrive, and

  
drive around town a 
  lot above 42mph.



Not to mention the 
extra HEAT a high-stall TC will contribute when NOT driving in OD... 
and assuming you haven't disabled your TCC-- good for performance, bad for heat 
and gas mileage!


?


High-stalls on the 
street are for kids-- much like Trix (silly Rabbit!)-- and 
why I opted for something under 3000rpm when I ordered my 
Vigilante, whose primary selling point for me was its grippy, 4x 
clutch area.? I wanted extra insurance that the TCC would stay 
locked up in spite of assorted hiccups from the motor... wanted the good gas 
economy above 42mph.


?


So unless you're 
building a track-only bracket machine or like harsh TCC-lock-ups, don't sweat 
the stall speed so much.? If you are trying to smoke tires to the 
exclusion of much else, MATCH your stall speed to the torque peak 
(rpm)?you've already matched your cam and intake velocity to jointly 
achieve....


?


Smoky Ewe-Nick







  
----- Original Message ----- 

  
From: 
  Ted Metzing 

  
To: DOlivares 

  
Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 8:42 
  PM

  
Subject: Re: [Syty] 700r4 trans

  


Thanks D.O. for 
  your suggestions. Will the 2800 stall TC be good enough for a somewhat larger 
  turbo in the future like a PTE setup?

Ted

DOlivares wrote: 
  

    
    

    
I don't know why 
    the Camaro version of the 700R4 would be mechanically different from the 
    version in your Ty.? All I did to mine was...

    

      
Swap-out the TC 
      for a Vigilante, stall = 2800rpm; 
      

B&M Shift-Kit 
      (made absolutely no difference!); 
      

Swap-out the Pan 
      for a deeper,?air-tubed version from Derale; 
      

Replace all fluid 
      with RedLine Racing Fluid; 
      

?and fresh 
      K&N Filter (internal... never neglect this!) 


    
No more plans till 
    I get time to beef-up the engine more.? Transmission issues are closed 
    for the moment... dead-reliable status already achieved!

    
?

    
D.O. 
    


    

    

      
----- 
      Original Message ----- 

      
From: 
      Ted 
      Metzing 

      
To: 
      syty at syty.org 

      
Sent: 
      Thursday, June 28, 2007 2:13 PM

      
Subject: 
      [Syty] 700r4 trans

      


I got a few quick questions for everybody. My friend has a 
      1991 Camaro
and he's willing to sell me his 700r4 trans for like a 
      $100. Is there
any difference between that trans and the stock one in 
      my 1993 Ty? If
not, any recommendations on what upgrades to do to it 
      (please specify
brand names) like what torque convertor company to use 
      and is a 3000
stall ok, what shift kit should I use, and what trans 
      cooler should I
use? My Ty is pretty much stock except for minor mods 
      like setting
timing to 0, AFPR, re-routed intercooler lines (removing 
      the metal lines
for hoses), Ultimate chip, Walbro HP pump, scan tool, 
      cap/rotor, Iridium
NGK plugs, 8.5mm wires, etc. My Ty has 104,400 miles 
      on it, ran best of
13.36 @ 101 mph, 1.8? 60'. stock turbo @ 18 psi on 
      93 octane with a
little knock at full throttle (not sure if false 
      because of the
upshifts), fuel pressure @ 54 with vac line off, 32 lb 
      lucas green
stripe injectors. Any and all help welcome. Hope this will 
      create a
little discussion out there. Thanks again.

Ted 
      Metzing
93 Typhoon
06 TBSS
05 HD 
      V-rod

_______________________________________________
Syty 
      mailing list
Syty at syty.org
http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty




 





_______________________________________________
Syty mailing list
Syty at syty.org
http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty



 


________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone.  Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com.
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20070629/8ed5531d/attachment-0001.html 

From seravilo at netzero.net  Fri Jun 29 11:06:24 2007
From: seravilo at netzero.net (DOlivares)
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2007 11:06:24 -0500
Subject: [Syty] 700r4 trans
References: <46840877.8060507@verizon.net>	<002a01c7b9e9$046c8d90$0b406b43@coresys1>	<46846395.7010100@verizon.net>
	<003d01c7ba44$47ed3960$09406b43@coresys1>
	<8C9887BFE141A5B-13A0-75B4@webmail-me02.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <006a01c7ba67$731c97c0$09406b43@coresys1>

Ah yes,

...the bully-boy adds his "ever-useful" snorts and flatulence... didn't take long to SMOKE him outta his pen!  Cockroaches are a lot like that.  Maybe we should find him a new nickname...?

Meanwhile, Ted, et al., you have a plain selection to choose from: 

Detailed reasoned advice based on 35 years of experience and erudition

vs.

Loud-mouthed blanket-denials and hostile generalities.

You be the judge....

D.O.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Daron 
  To: seravilo at netzero.net ; theodore.metzing at verizon.net 
  Cc: syty at syty.org 
  Sent: Friday, June 29, 2007 10:47 AM
  Subject: Re: [Syty] 700r4 trans


  Let me summarize... A 2800 stall is a decent compromise for a street driven truck with a reasonable horsepower goal.  Find a horsepower target and build your truck for that, not the other way around.  I mainly disagree with what dennis is "smokin,"  especially if we are talking female sheep...

  Daron



  -----Original Message-----
  From: DOlivares <seravilo at netzero.net>
  To: Ted Metzing <theodore.metzing at verizon.net>
  Cc: SYTY <syty at syty.org>
  Sent: Fri, 29 Jun 2007 6:54 am
  Subject: Re: [Syty] 700r4 trans


  Sure... "somewhat larger" should be fine, depending on what kind of LAUNCH you're trying to achieve... and how much extra gasoline you're willing to buy if you DON'T...
    a.. drive around town in Overdrive, and 
    b.. drive around town a lot above 42mph.
  Not to mention the extra HEAT a high-stall TC will contribute when NOT driving in OD... and assuming you haven't disabled your TCC-- good for performance, bad for heat and gas mileage!

  High-stalls on the street are for kids-- much like Trix (silly Rabbit!)-- and why I opted for something under 3000rpm when I ordered my Vigilante, whose primary selling point for me was its grippy, 4x clutch area.  I wanted extra insurance that the TCC would stay locked up in spite of assorted hiccups from the motor... wanted the good gas economy above 42mph.

  So unless you're building a track-only bracket machine or like harsh TCC-lock-ups, don't sweat the stall speed so much.  If you are trying to smoke tires to the exclusion of much else, MATCH your stall speed to the torque peak (rpm) you've already matched your cam and intake velocity to jointly achieve....

  Smoky Ewe-Nick 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    ----- Original Message ----- 
    From: Ted Metzing 
    To: DOlivares 
    Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 8:42 PM
    Subject: Re: [Syty] 700r4 trans


    Thanks D.O. for your suggestions. Will the 2800 stall TC be good enough for a somewhat larger turbo in the future like a PTE setup?

    Ted

    DOlivares wrote: 
      I don't know why the Camaro version of the 700R4 would be mechanically different from the version in your Ty.  All I did to mine was...
        a.. Swap-out the TC for a Vigilante, stall = 2800rpm; 
        b.. B&M Shift-Kit (made absolutely no difference!); 
        c.. Swap-out the Pan for a deeper, air-tubed version from Derale; 
        d.. Replace all fluid with RedLine Racing Fluid; 
        e..  and fresh K&N Filter (internal... never neglect this!) 
      No more plans till I get time to beef-up the engine more.  Transmission issues are closed for the moment... dead-reliable status already achieved!

      D.O. 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------

        ----- Original Message ----- 
        From: Ted Metzing 
        To: syty at syty.org 
        Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 2:13 PM
        Subject: [Syty] 700r4 trans


        I got a few quick questions for everybody. My friend has a 1991 Camaro
        and he's willing to sell me his 700r4 trans for like a $100. Is there
        any difference between that trans and the stock one in my 1993 Ty? If
        not, any recommendations on what upgrades to do to it (please specify
        brand names) like what torque convertor company to use and is a 3000
        stall ok, what shift kit should I use, and what trans cooler should I
        use? My Ty is pretty much stock except for minor mods like setting
        timing to 0, AFPR, re-routed intercooler lines (removing the metal lines
        for hoses), Ultimate chip, Walbro HP pump, scan tool, cap/rotor, Iridium
        NGK plugs, 8.5mm wires, etc. My Ty has 104,400 miles on it, ran best of
        13.36 @ 101 mph, 1.8? 60'. stock turbo @ 18 psi on 93 octane with a
        little knock at full throttle (not sure if false because of the
        upshifts), fuel pressure @ 54 with vac line off, 32 lb lucas green
        stripe injectors. Any and all help welcome. Hope this will create a
        little discussion out there. Thanks again.

        Ted Metzing
        93 Typhoon
        06 TBSS
        05 HD V-rod

        _______________________________________________
        Syty mailing list
        Syty at syty.org
        http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty

_______________________________________________
Syty mailing list
Syty at syty.org
http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty

------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com.
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20070629/f55761a4/attachment-0001.html 

From theodore.metzing at verizon.net  Sat Jun 30 00:14:18 2007
From: theodore.metzing at verizon.net (Ted Metzing)
Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2007 01:14:18 -0400
Subject: [Syty] 700r4
Message-ID: <4685E6AA.5090505@verizon.net>

Wow! I hope I didn't start another flame war, but it's wonderful that 
you guys gave me a lot of good info on what to do. It's good to see the 
list active again, at least somewhat. Thanks again everybody for all the 
good info. Looking certain things up on the archives is too time 
consuming and a PITA when you need a "right now" answer.

Ted


From gary at thesantacruzhouse.com  Sat Jun 30 03:09:12 2007
From: gary at thesantacruzhouse.com (Gary H)
Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2007 01:09:12 -0700
Subject: [Syty] Re: SyTy
In-Reply-To: <003701c7b1c8$a2433ec0$0f406b43@coresys1>
References: <4676A864.9070208@thecrosbygroup.com>
	<003701c7b1c8$a2433ec0$0f406b43@coresys1>
Message-ID: <46860FA8.5010904@thesantacruzhouse.com>

Can you document/take pics of the valve stem seal R&R? I've been wanting 
to do this for some time and I think I'll have time this summer to work 
on the Ty.
Gary

DOlivares wrote:
> Nope,
>  
> At least I don't think so.  The engine/turbo has never been apart such 
> that I could have possibly left out a critical piece.  At better than 
> 140k miles, there's no question that a complete overhaul is in order, 
> but, recent smoke aside, it just runs so damn great!  Not enough 
> reason for a tear-down....
>  
> I thought about a turbo leak from the oil-supply line but couldn't 
> figure out the mechanism for so much oil to be getting into the 
> exhaust, especially /only at certain idle-times/:  Only after coming 
> off an extended cruise or burst if speed, at full operating temp (180 
> as I recall), and the engine winds down to idle speed does the 
> embarrassing smokescreen come up.  You should see all the dirt looks I 
> get from those Prius-owners!
>  
> However, I recently found that if I can keep the rpm up over 1200 at 
> stoplights and such, I can greatly minimize or even eliminate the 
> smoke problem!  This technique, combined with fresh 10W40 oil, a can 
> of /_STP_/ and a can of _/Restore/_, I only generate about 1/3 the 
> volume of smoke as I did last week in the worst-case scenario.  What's 
> more, now the smoke is practically ALL BLUE, whereas before it was 
> mostly WHITE... the difference between burning traditional, 
> mineral-based oil vs. Red Line synthetic...?  Who knows, after another 
> couple of weeks with these additives, I may even be able to reduce all 
> smoking to no more than one of my favorite Jamaican cigars! 
>  
> Meanwhile, I ordered a set of new valve-stem seals from RockAuto and 
> next week expect to replace at least the driver's-side bank of units 
> (the easier-to-remove valve cover), which theoretically should reduce 
> at least 50% of the smoke and maybe keep things stable enough for me 
> to wait to get another vehicle running, tagged, and insured so that I 
> can totally decommission Ol' Reliable Syclone #773 and start on its 
> dream-motor... titanium rods and all!
>  
> Stay tuned,
>  
> D.O.
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>     ----- Original Message -----
>     *From:* Steve Hatheway <mailto:stevehatheway at thecrosbygroup.com>
>     *To:* seravilo at netzero.net <mailto:seravilo at netzero.net>
>     *Sent:* Monday, June 18, 2007 10:44 AM
>     *Subject:* SyTy
>
>     Make sure you don't have a turbo seal out, they can real smoke alot.
>     Steve
>
>
>
>
>     Message: 1
>     Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2007 20:38:03 -0500
>     From: "DOlivares" <seravilo at netzero.net <mailto:seravilo at netzero.net>>
>     Subject: [Syty] Roller Rockers...
>     To: "SYTY" <syty at syty.org <mailto:syty at syty.org>>
>     Message-ID: <004901c7aeed$d2047c60$2f406b43 at coresys1
>     <mailto:004901c7aeed$d2047c60$2f406b43 at coresys1>>
>     Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"
>
>     My 'Clone's valve guides and/or seals have had it and I gotta do
>     something before the EPA-cops give me a ticket!  After coming to a
>     stop at a light or sign-- once the oil warms up... even 5W50!--
>     after a cruise, I get ENVELOPED in a pillar of cloud that is
>     reminiscent of Moses and the boys running around in the desert! 
>     This problem just crept up on me during the past few months and I
>     gotta do something fast.
>
>     Naturally, for me, a simple valve-seal repair isn't good enough. 
>     Here's my chance to pop-in my new injectors, convert to rollers,
>     and maybe even swap the heads!  Anybody know anything about
>     McCoy's "Stage 2" heads, now on sale for $495 (a pair or each?)
>     and why they're so much cheaper than the Stage 1s?
>
>     Anybody have any luck swapping-in ROLLER-ROCKERS, with new or
>     reused pushrods, on a stock set of heads?  (I did a Crane-swap-out
>     on my TTA many years ago-- Chevy self-centering units-- only to
>     break 2 of 'em when my CPU or ignition system went berserk and
>     misfired the whole engine and shredded my TCC....)
>
>     Thanx in advance,
>
>     D.O.
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> Syty mailing list
> Syty at syty.org
> http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty
>   



From seravilo at netzero.net  Sat Jun 30 12:02:14 2007
From: seravilo at netzero.net (DOlivares)
Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2007 12:02:14 -0500
Subject: [Syty] Valve-Cover Gaskets...?
References: <4676A864.9070208@thecrosbygroup.com>
	<003701c7b1c8$a2433ec0$0f406b43@coresys1>
	<46860FA8.5010904@thesantacruzhouse.com>
Message-ID: <001401c7bb38$69e07970$09406b43@coresys1>

Funny, your message hit just as I was doing some last-minute research on that very project!  Without back-up transportation, I have to make sure I can start early enough to get done before sundown and assuming I can get a break from the regular rainfall we've been getting.

I thought I had all my parts and tools lined up for the job, but now as I review the tech-manual I'm wondering about the GASKET for the valve cover.

Traditional American motors up through the mid-80s use cheesy gaskets that cook onto the heads and usually come apart upon removal after a number of years; however, I was delighted to find the embedded-type plastic gasket on my '89 Trans Am heads.  You don't even have to be that careful removing the cover; the gasket remains fixed and resilient in its channel.  Will the Syclone valve covers be the same, or do I need to order up a new set of gaskets before I get those covers off?  The Great Unknown!  Anybody out there with the answer?

You can see my anxiety.  If I hadn't been unpleasantly SURPRISED so many times in the past by such little, petty crap that grinds everything to a halt I wouldn't be such a conservative fuddy-duddy today....

I've also got some shortcuts in mind for this job... I hardly ever do anything by the book anymore.  Most of those procedures are written for the paranoid.  I'll try to keep up the record of what I end up doing....

D.O.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Gary H 
  To: DOlivares 
  Cc: Steve Hatheway ; SYTY 
  Sent: Saturday, June 30, 2007 3:09 AM
  Subject: Re: [Syty] Re: SyTy


  Can you document/take pics of the valve stem seal R&R? I've been wanting 
  to do this for some time and I think I'll have time this summer to work 
  on the Ty.
  Gary

  DOlivares wrote:
  > Nope,
  >  
  > At least I don't think so.  The engine/turbo has never been apart such 
  > that I could have possibly left out a critical piece.  At better than 
  > 140k miles, there's no question that a complete overhaul is in order, 
  > but, recent smoke aside, it just runs so damn great!  Not enough 
  > reason for a tear-down....
  >  
  > I thought about a turbo leak from the oil-supply line but couldn't 
  > figure out the mechanism for so much oil to be getting into the 
  > exhaust, especially /only at certain idle-times/:  Only after coming 
  > off an extended cruise or burst if speed, at full operating temp (180 
  > as I recall), and the engine winds down to idle speed does the 
  > embarrassing smokescreen come up.  You should see all the dirt looks I 
  > get from those Prius-owners!
  >  
  > However, I recently found that if I can keep the rpm up over 1200 at 
  > stoplights and such, I can greatly minimize or even eliminate the 
  > smoke problem!  This technique, combined with fresh 10W40 oil, a can 
  > of /_STP_/ and a can of _/Restore/_, I only generate about 1/3 the 
  > volume of smoke as I did last week in the worst-case scenario.  What's 
  > more, now the smoke is practically ALL BLUE, whereas before it was 
  > mostly WHITE... the difference between burning traditional, 
  > mineral-based oil vs. Red Line synthetic...?  Who knows, after another 
  > couple of weeks with these additives, I may even be able to reduce all 
  > smoking to no more than one of my favorite Jamaican cigars! 
  >  
  > Meanwhile, I ordered a set of new valve-stem seals from RockAuto and 
  > next week expect to replace at least the driver's-side bank of units 
  > (the easier-to-remove valve cover), which theoretically should reduce 
  > at least 50% of the smoke and maybe keep things stable enough for me 
  > to wait to get another vehicle running, tagged, and insured so that I 
  > can totally decommission Ol' Reliable Syclone #773 and start on its 
  > dream-motor... titanium rods and all!
  >  
  > Stay tuned,
  >  
  > D.O.
  > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
  >
  >     ----- Original Message -----
  >     *From:* Steve Hatheway <mailto:stevehatheway at thecrosbygroup.com>
  >     *To:* seravilo at netzero.net <mailto:seravilo at netzero.net>
  >     *Sent:* Monday, June 18, 2007 10:44 AM
  >     *Subject:* SyTy
  >
  >     Make sure you don't have a turbo seal out, they can real smoke alot.
  >     Steve
  >
  >
  >
  >
  >     Message: 1
  >     Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2007 20:38:03 -0500
  >     From: "DOlivares" <seravilo at netzero.net <mailto:seravilo at netzero.net>>
  >     Subject: [Syty] Roller Rockers...
  >     To: "SYTY" <syty at syty.org <mailto:syty at syty.org>>
  >     Message-ID: <004901c7aeed$d2047c60$2f406b43 at coresys1
  >     <mailto:004901c7aeed$d2047c60$2f406b43 at coresys1>>
  >     Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"
  >
  >     My 'Clone's valve guides and/or seals have had it and I gotta do
  >     something before the EPA-cops give me a ticket!  After coming to a
  >     stop at a light or sign-- once the oil warms up... even 5W50!--
  >     after a cruise, I get ENVELOPED in a pillar of cloud that is
  >     reminiscent of Moses and the boys running around in the desert! 
  >     This problem just crept up on me during the past few months and I
  >     gotta do something fast.
  >
  >     Naturally, for me, a simple valve-seal repair isn't good enough. 
  >     Here's my chance to pop-in my new injectors, convert to rollers,
  >     and maybe even swap the heads!  Anybody know anything about
  >     McCoy's "Stage 2" heads, now on sale for $495 (a pair or each?)
  >     and why they're so much cheaper than the Stage 1s?
  >
  >     Anybody have any luck swapping-in ROLLER-ROCKERS, with new or
  >     reused pushrods, on a stock set of heads?  (I did a Crane-swap-out
  >     on my TTA many years ago-- Chevy self-centering units-- only to
  >     break 2 of 'em when my CPU or ignition system went berserk and
  >     misfired the whole engine and shredded my TCC....)
  >
  >     Thanx in advance,
  >
  >     D.O.
  >
  > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
  >
  > _______________________________________________
  > Syty mailing list
  > Syty at syty.org
  > http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty
  >   

-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20070630/16b138c1/attachment-0001.html 

From sytydave at gmail.com  Sat Jun 30 14:00:45 2007
From: sytydave at gmail.com (Dave Goodhue)
Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2007 15:00:45 -0400
Subject: [Syty] Valve-Cover Gaskets...?
In-Reply-To: <001401c7bb38$69e07970$09406b43@coresys1>
References: <4676A864.9070208@thecrosbygroup.com>
	<003701c7b1c8$a2433ec0$0f406b43@coresys1>
	<46860FA8.5010904@thesantacruzhouse.com>
	<001401c7bb38$69e07970$09406b43@coresys1>
Message-ID: <ba3beb080706301200m1c65ee58x65a45b0ba5bdbe96@mail.gmail.com>

On 6/30/07, DOlivares <seravilo at netzero.net> wrote:
>
>  Funny, your message hit just as I was doing some last-minute research on
> that very project!  Without back-up transportation, I have to make sure I
> can start early enough to get done before sundown and assuming I can get a
> break from the regular rainfall we've been getting.
>
> I thought I had all my parts and tools lined up for the job, but now as I
> review the tech-manual I'm wondering about the GASKET for the valve cover.
>
> Traditional American motors up through the mid-80s use cheesy gaskets that
> cook onto the heads and usually come apart upon removal after a number of
> years; however, I was delighted to find the *embedded-type plastic gasket*on my '89 Trans Am heads.  You don't even have to be that careful removing
> the cover; the gasket remains fixed and resilient in its channel.  *Will
> the Syclone valve covers be the same*, or do I need to order up a new set
> of gaskets before I get those covers off?  The Great Unknown!  *Anybody
> out there with the answer?*
>
> You can see my anxiety.  If I hadn't been unpleasantly SURPRISED so many
> times in the past by such little, petty crap that grinds everything to a
> halt I wouldn't be such a conservative fuddy-duddy today....
>
> I've also got some shortcuts in mind for this job... I hardly ever do
> anything by the book anymore.  Most of those procedures are written for the
> paranoid.  I'll try to keep up the record of what I end up doing....
>
> D.O.
>

The gaskets are rubber, that are supose to stick into the grove.  However,
the first time I did the valve cover without having the top end of the motor
they kept falling out.  I tried a new set of gasket without any luck (like a
couple hours of cursing), I ended up redo them becuase they were leaking.  I
ended up using 4 of those metal binder clips to hold the valve cover gaskets
in place until got the valve covers in place.  It worked great.

I think I bought something like this.

http://www.staples.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/StaplesProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10001&prodCatType=0&catalogId=10051&productId=143830&cmArea=SEARCH

To get the valve covers off they are pretty easy, driverside is harder to
do, the back nut on the MAP/EGR Solenoid, Coil, is a little challenging if
you don't want to pull the upper intake or distributor off, but its do
able.  You need to remove one of the Alternator bolts as well.  Passenger
side is basically the Upper IC.

As for doing the valve stem seals, I did mine with the top end apart, but I
am pretty sure I could do them with the valve covers off.  I was able to
adjust the valve with the engine running a short carboard shield to keep
splashing off the engine (make sure its warmed up first).  I was worried I
didn't adjust them properly following the comp cams article about finding
zero lash, but I had.

For the valve seals I would do it with an air compressor, spark plug air
fitting, and spring compressor.   I tried the 'rope trick' to hold up the
valves. It was no trick it took way to much time. The time it took me to do
#1 cylinder with rope I did 2-6 with an air compressor.  For doing the seals
themselves, myclone responded to me with a perfect description on how to do
them.  #5 was a little tight for the spring compressor with the brake
booster in the way, I had used a stamp steel spring compressor that my
father bought in the 60's.

http://www.syty.net/forums/showthread.php?t=11752

I used the comp cams website for finding zero lash, I think I did my valve
with 1/2 turn of preload.  I did them with the engine running as well, it
wasn't that hard either.
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: http://lists.syty.org/pipermail/syty/attachments/20070630/4cc1c94c/attachment-0001.html