[Syty] Valve-Cover Gaskets...?

[Dave Goodhue]

On 6/30/07, DOlivares <seravilo at netzero.net> wrote:
>
>  Funny, your message hit just as I was doing some last-minute research on
> that very project!  Without back-up transportation, I have to make sure I
> can start early enough to get done before sundown and assuming I can get a
> break from the regular rainfall we've been getting.
>
> I thought I had all my parts and tools lined up for the job, but now as I
> review the tech-manual I'm wondering about the GASKET for the valve cover.
>
> Traditional American motors up through the mid-80s use cheesy gaskets that
> cook onto the heads and usually come apart upon removal after a number of
> years; however, I was delighted to find the *embedded-type plastic gasket*on my '89 Trans Am heads.  You don't even have to be that careful removing
> the cover; the gasket remains fixed and resilient in its channel.  *Will
> the Syclone valve covers be the same*, or do I need to order up a new set
> of gaskets before I get those covers off?  The Great Unknown!  *Anybody
> out there with the answer?*
>
> You can see my anxiety.  If I hadn't been unpleasantly SURPRISED so many
> times in the past by such little, petty crap that grinds everything to a
> halt I wouldn't be such a conservative fuddy-duddy today....
>
> I've also got some shortcuts in mind for this job... I hardly ever do
> anything by the book anymore.  Most of those procedures are written for the
> paranoid.  I'll try to keep up the record of what I end up doing....
>
> D.O.
>

The gaskets are rubber, that are supose to stick into the grove.  However,
the first time I did the valve cover without having the top end of the motor
they kept falling out.  I tried a new set of gasket without any luck (like a
couple hours of cursing), I ended up redo them becuase they were leaking.  I
ended up using 4 of those metal binder clips to hold the valve cover gaskets
in place until got the valve covers in place.  It worked great.

I think I bought something like this.

http://www.staples.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/StaplesProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10001&prodCatType=0&catalogId=10051&productId=143830&cmArea=SEARCH

To get the valve covers off they are pretty easy, driverside is harder to
do, the back nut on the MAP/EGR Solenoid, Coil, is a little challenging if
you don't want to pull the upper intake or distributor off, but its do
able.  You need to remove one of the Alternator bolts as well.  Passenger
side is basically the Upper IC.

As for doing the valve stem seals, I did mine with the top end apart, but I
am pretty sure I could do them with the valve covers off.  I was able to
adjust the valve with the engine running a short carboard shield to keep
splashing off the engine (make sure its warmed up first).  I was worried I
didn't adjust them properly following the comp cams article about finding
zero lash, but I had.

For the valve seals I would do it with an air compressor, spark plug air
fitting, and spring compressor.   I tried the 'rope trick' to hold up the
valves. It was no trick it took way to much time. The time it took me to do
#1 cylinder with rope I did 2-6 with an air compressor.  For doing the seals
themselves, myclone responded to me with a perfect description on how to do
them.  #5 was a little tight for the spring compressor with the brake
booster in the way, I had used a stamp steel spring compressor that my
father bought in the 60's.

http://www.syty.net/forums/showthread.php?t=11752

I used the comp cams website for finding zero lash, I think I did my valve
with 1/2 turn of preload.  I did them with the engine running as well, it
wasn't that hard either.
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