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<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=004520414-02012006><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2>Happy New Year Dennis!</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=004520414-02012006><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=004520414-02012006><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2>I've had hardware problems with several of the 10-1
adapters. You could swap back to the stock memcal (and map sensor) to rule
that out, if your build isn't too radical.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=004520414-02012006><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=004520414-02012006><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2>I usually keep at least one spare ecm for a substitution
test, and have seen quite a few fail in weird ways. Let me know if you
need one.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=004520414-02012006><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=004520414-02012006><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2>Sometimes it helps to go back to the basics, and follow the
diagnostics in the service manual <A
href="http://syty.org/old/d&e-code44.html">http://syty.org/old/d&e-code44.html</A> .</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=004520414-02012006><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=004520414-02012006><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2>Just a few ideas, if you haven't already tried
them.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=004520414-02012006><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=004520414-02012006><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2>Jim </FONT></SPAN></DIV><BR>
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<FONT face=Tahoma size=2><B>From:</B> syty-bounces@syty.org
[mailto:syty-bounces@syty.org] <B>On Behalf Of </B>DOlivares<BR><B>Sent:</B>
Sunday, January 01, 2006 7:36 PM<BR><B>To:</B>
syty@syty.org<BR><B>Subject:</B> [Syty] Broke &
Stumped!<BR><B>Importance:</B> High<BR></FONT><BR></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>Who watches The
Watcher? </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>Who advises The
Guru?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>Who assists The Good
Samaritan?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>I think we're about
to find out pretty soon-- at least until I can get my Lapdog running again
(and one of the diagnostic programs to troubleshoot my li'l pony)</FONT><FONT
face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>Meanwhile, I NEED
HELP! With my laptop in pieces all over the bench, I can't run DIACOM or
DATALINK to give me clues about the usual suspects:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>Clean-livin' doesn't
always pay off if my holidaze so far are any indication. I spent
Christmas Eve on a carlift taking apart my right-front axle-- again!-- after
being assured by our local "Gear-Guru" (who fully rebuilt that differential
less than 6 months before I started hearing that same CLUNKING on left
turns again) that all I needed was a new cir-clip (GM #14041989) to keep the
axle from popping-out of the side-gear in the differential. HAH!
More bad advice and I ended up taking a cab home.... More about that
Horror Show in a later mailing.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>Meanwhile, we got our
first technical freeze down here in what was becoming <EM>tropical</EM> San
Antone on Nov. 17th and our first hard-freeze, appropriately, on Dec. 7th, and
somewhere in between those times ol' Syclone #773 began <STRONG>throwing fits
during start-up and for the first 5 or 6 minutes until the water jacket hits
and stays at 180°</STRONG> or so. I'm stumped for the first time in a
decade or more! Here's what happens:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>Since the
<EM>new</EM> Walbro fuel-pump went in a few months ago, cranking times are way
down... engine catches pretty quick, but now it won't stay lit and "choke"
with the <EM>new</EM> IAC, which went in along with a <EM>new</EM> TPS and
remote-adjustable FPR about a month before the new Walbro. Now, I have
to feather the pedal once the ignition gets going and hold the throttle open a
bit while the IAC hunts for about a dozen cycles making the tach swing about
1200 rpm back and forth until we hit the "sweet spot" and the engine takes off
smoothly and the IAC-hunting stops, at least for a while. Now, it's safe
to put her in gear and drive away as long as I keep a little positive bias in
the pedal for the next few minutes every time I have to slow down to an idle
or coast speed. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>THIS PROBLEM IS
WICKEDLY WORSE ON COLD DAYS, where ambient air is in the 40s or below,
which thankfully is rare. (Ain't this global-warming great!)
However, on a couple of occasions when I did have to drive in the 30s-- and
even <EM>after</EM> reaching full-warm-up temperature-- the engine starts
cutting out seriously as the SES light comes on! Now, we're talking some
MAJOR pumping of the pedal to keep things lit and if I can get on a clear
piece of road and cruise a spell at 35 mph or better the problem goes away
<EM>completely</EM>, until I shutdown and the engine gets cold again. I
barely even recognize that SES light... hardly ever see it. Driving on
warmer days never sees a recurrence of that mid-period cutting-out, and idle
is smooth as is the rest of drivability. Warm start-ups see a few
moments of that IAC-hunting, but the rpm-sweeps are only on the order of
500rpm and the whole anomaly goes away in about 30 seconds. I've NEVER
encountered anything like this in my many years of wrenching! Now, it's
time for some wretching!! All that ever gets logged in the way of a
trouble-code is <STRONG><FONT color=#ff0000>44</FONT></STRONG>... not too
helpful!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>Naturally, I replaced
the O2 sensor-- no improvement at all! Everything described above
instinctually told me this was a weird thermal transient in the injector-drive
circuits or else the MAT, CTS or MAP I replaced (for the hell of it) 3 years
ago needed to be switched again. So I <EM>did</EM>... one at a time to
see if I could fault-locate the culprit that way. No dice! I'm
running out of hardware to replace! I've even tried setting that 10-to-1
Chip to different settings, but the same nasty behavior persists-- the
engine's as well as my own!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4><STRONG>WHO CAN TELL
ME WHAT MY PROBLEM(S) IS?</STRONG> Be nice, now....</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>Dennis
O.</FONT></DIV>
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