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<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>Vacuum leaks was the
<EM>SECOND</EM> thing I tested for.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>Nope, tight as a
drum... and a vacuum leak would KEEP giving trouble, not just at
warm-up.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>Nice try anyway... keep
thinkin',</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>D.O.
<HR>
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message -----
<DIV style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A
title=jabbatruck@gmail.com href="mailto:jabbatruck@gmail.com">Jabba Truck</A>
</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=seravilo@netzero.net
href="mailto:seravilo@netzero.net">DOlivares</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Cc:</B> <A title=tydriver@hotmail.com
href="mailto:tydriver@hotmail.com">Rick In Central Texas</A> ; <A
title=syty@syty.org href="mailto:syty@syty.org">syty@syty.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, January 03, 2006 9:33 PM</DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> Re: [Syty] Broke & Stumped!</DIV></DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>Try looking for a vacuum leak. The truck could be sucking
air from unapproved places, and the 'puter can't correct it. Colder air =
more extra O2.<BR><BR>
<DIV><SPAN class=gmail_quote>On 1/3/06, <B class=gmail_sendername>DOlivares</B>
<<A href="mailto:seravilo@netzero.net">seravilo@netzero.net</A>>
wrote:</SPAN>
<BLOCKQUOTE class=gmail_quote
style="PADDING-LEFT: 1ex; MARGIN: 0pt 0pt 0pt 0.8ex; BORDER-LEFT: rgb(204,204,204) 1px solid">
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>Yea,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>
That's exactly what I was thinking early on in my diagnostic process... which
is why they CTS was the very first thing I replaced and checked for 5V at the
connector. That or the next-day replacement of the MAT (a.k.a. IAT)
should've solved the temp-triggered problem, BUT NO DICE IN EITHER CASE!
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>
The other likely cause could be due to my inadvertent replacing one bad
sensor(s) with another one right out of the box-- it's possible but
unlikely. Moreover, if I had bad wiring or bad sensors the ECM would
throw an appropriate sensor/wire-fault code (e.g., 14, 23, 25 or
<EM>something</EM> else) instead of that stupid "44." Unless the Spark
Module or ECM 10-in-1 is miraculously acting as its own temp-sensor
input (and from that snide remark you might be able to guess what my
feelings about <EM>that</EM> possibility are), I pretty much remain
STUMPED.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4> In
the past couple of daze (not days!), it's been in the low/middle-80s here in
the Alamo City, and when I went to cold-start the 'Clone both times with
ambient air above 70 the engine fires right up with none of that
hunt-and-swing baloney. Same thing this morning on my way to my
first-ever ROOT-CANAL procedure: Air temp was just at 60 and the motor
fired right up, idled "high" as in proper choke-mode, and I took off smooth as
silk; however, it did go into that balk-and-cut-out routine about a block away
from my driveway. It also went away faster than normal and the rest of
my merry ride to the oral butcher went without incident.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>
So, if I can just get it to stay above 70 every time I wanna go driving I'm
free from worries! I can't believe I'm the only one with this
syndrome...!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>D.O.
<HR>
</FONT></DIV><SPAN class=q>
<DIV
style="FONT: 10pt arial; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal">-----
Original Message -----
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: rgb(228,228,228) 0% 50%; moz-background-clip: initial; moz-background-origin: initial; moz-background-inline-policy: initial"><B>From:</B>
<A title=tydriver@hotmail.com
onclick="return top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)"
href="mailto:tydriver@hotmail.com" target=_blank>Rick In Central Texas</A>
</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=seravilo@netzero.net
onclick="return top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)"
href="mailto:seravilo@netzero.net" target=_blank>seravilo@netzero.net</A> ; <A
title=syty@syty.org onclick="return top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)"
href="mailto:syty@syty.org" target=_blank>syty@syty.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, January 03, 2006 12:49 PM</DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> RE: [Syty] Broke & Stumped!</DIV></DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV></SPAN>
<DIV><SPAN class=e id=q_1089228ca8a432df_2>One possibility... your coolant
temp sensor or wiring is faulty, and your <BR>engine *thinks* it's hot when
it's not. This would give a lean condition.
<BR>HTH<BR><BR>Rick<BR><BR><BR>From: "DOlivares" <<A
onclick="return top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)"
href="mailto:seravilo@netzero.net"
target=_blank>seravilo@netzero.net</A>><BR>Reply-To: DOlivares <<A
onclick="return top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)"
href="mailto:seravilo@netzero.net"
target=_blank>seravilo@netzero.net</A>><BR>To: <<A
onclick="return top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)"
href="mailto:syty@syty.org" target=_blank> syty@syty.org</A>><BR>Subject:
[Syty] Broke & Stumped!<BR>Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2006 19:36:17 -0600<BR><BR>Who
watches The Watcher?<BR><BR>Who advises The Guru?<BR><BR>Who assists The Good
Samaritan?<BR><BR>I think we're about to find out pretty soon-- at least until
I can get my <BR>Lapdog running again (and one of the diagnostic programs to
troubleshoot my <BR>li'l pony):<BR><BR>Meanwhile, I NEED HELP! With my
laptop in pieces all over the bench, I <BR>can't run DIACOM or DATALINK to
give me clues about the usual suspects:<BR><BR>Clean-livin' doesn't always pay
off if my holidaze so far are any <BR>indication. I spent Christmas Eve
on a carlift taking apart my right-front <BR>axle-- again!-- after being
assured by our local "Gear-Guru" (who fully <BR>rebuilt that differential less
than 6 months before I started hearing that <BR>same CLUNKING on left turns
again) that all I needed was a new cir-clip (GM <BR>#14041989) to keep the
axle from popping-out of the side-gear in the <BR>differential.
HAH! More bad advice and I ended up taking a cab home.... <BR>More
about that Horror Show in a later mailing.<BR><BR>Meanwhile, we got our first
technical freeze down here in what was becoming <BR>tropical San Antone on
Nov. 17th and our first hard-freeze, appropriately, <BR>on Dec. 7th, and
somewhere in between those times ol' Syclone #773 began <BR>throwing fits
during start-up and for the first 5 or 6 minutes until the <BR>water jacket
hits and stays at 180° or so. I'm stumped for the first time <BR>in a
decade or more! Here's what happens:<BR><BR>Since the new Walbro
fuel-pump went in a few months ago, cranking times are <BR>way down... engine
catches pretty quick, but now it won't stay lit and <BR>"choke" with the new
IAC, which went in along with a new TPS and <BR>remote-adjustable FPR about a
month before the new Walbro. Now, I have to <BR>feather the pedal once
the ignition gets going and hold the throttle open a <BR>bit while the IAC
hunts for about a dozen cycles making the tach swing about <BR>1200 rpm back
and forth until we hit the "sweet spot" and the engine takes <BR>off smoothly
and the IAC-hunting stops, at least for a while. Now, it's <BR>safe to
put her in gear and drive away as long as I keep a little positive <BR>bias in
the pedal for the next few minutes every time I have to slow down to <BR>an
idle or coast speed.<BR><BR>THIS PROBLEM IS WICKEDLY WORSE ON COLD DAYS, where
ambient air is in the 40s <BR>or below, which thankfully is rare. (Ain't
this global-warming great!) <BR>However, on a couple of occasions when I
did have to drive in the 30s-- and <BR>even after reaching full-warm-up
temperature-- the engine starts cutting out <BR>seriously as the SES light
comes on! Now, we're talking some MAJOR pumping <BR>of the pedal to keep
things lit and if I can get on a clear piece of road <BR>and cruise a spell at
35 mph or better the problem goes away completely, <BR>until I shutdown and
the engine gets cold again. I barely even recognize <BR>that SES
light... hardly ever see it. Driving on warmer days never sees a
<BR>recurrence of that mid-period cutting-out, and idle is smooth as is the
rest <BR>of drivability. Warm start-ups see a few moments of that
IAC-hunting, but <BR>the rpm-sweeps are only on the order of 500rpm and the
whole anomaly goes <BR>away in about 30 seconds. I've NEVER encountered
anything like this in my <BR>many years of wrenching! Now, it's time for
some wretching!! All that ever <BR>gets logged in the way of a
trouble-code is 44... not too helpful!<BR><BR>Naturally, I replaced the O2
sensor-- no improvement at all! Everything <BR>described above
instinctually told me this was a weird thermal transient in <BR>the
injector-drive circuits or else the MAT, CTS or MAP I replaced (for the
<BR>hell of it) 3 years ago needed to be switched again. So I did... one
at a <BR>time to see if I could fault-locate the culprit that way. No
dice! I'm <BR>running out of hardware to replace! I've even tried
setting that 10-to-1 <BR>Chip to different settings, but the same nasty
behavior persists-- the <BR>engine's as well as my own!<BR><BR>WHO CAN TELL ME
WHAT MY PROBLEM(S) IS? Be nice, now....<BR><BR>Dennis
O.<BR><BR><BR>_______________________________________________<BR>Syty mailing
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