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<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>Yea,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>
That's exactly what I was thinking early on in my diagnostic process... which is
why they CTS was the very first thing I replaced and checked for 5V at the
connector. That or the next-day replacement of the MAT (a.k.a. IAT)
should've solved the temp-triggered problem, BUT NO DICE IN EITHER CASE!
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4> The
other likely cause could be due to my inadvertent replacing one bad
sensor(s) with another one right out of the box-- it's possible but
unlikely. Moreover, if I had bad wiring or bad sensors the ECM would throw
an appropriate sensor/wire-fault code (e.g., 14, 23, 25 or <EM>something</EM>
else) instead of that stupid "44." Unless the Spark Module or ECM 10-in-1
is miraculously acting as its own temp-sensor input (and from that snide
remark you might be able to guess what my feelings about <EM>that</EM>
possibility are), I pretty much remain STUMPED.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4> In
the past couple of daze (not days!), it's been in the low/middle-80s here in the
Alamo City, and when I went to cold-start the 'Clone both times with ambient air
above 70 the engine fires right up with none of that hunt-and-swing
baloney. Same thing this morning on my way to my first-ever ROOT-CANAL
procedure: Air temp was just at 60 and the motor fired right up, idled
"high" as in proper choke-mode, and I took off smooth as silk; however, it did
go into that balk-and-cut-out routine about a block away from my driveway.
It also went away faster than normal and the rest of my merry ride to the oral
butcher went without incident.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4> So,
if I can just get it to stay above 70 every time I wanna go driving I'm free
from worries! I can't believe I'm the only one with this
syndrome...!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>D.O.
<HR>
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message -----
<DIV style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A
title=tydriver@hotmail.com href="mailto:tydriver@hotmail.com">Rick In Central
Texas</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=seravilo@netzero.net
href="mailto:seravilo@netzero.net">seravilo@netzero.net</A> ; <A
title=syty@syty.org href="mailto:syty@syty.org">syty@syty.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, January 03, 2006 12:49 PM</DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> RE: [Syty] Broke & Stumped!</DIV></DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>One possibility... your coolant temp sensor or wiring is faulty,
and your <BR>engine *thinks* it's hot when it's not. This would give a
lean condition. <BR>HTH<BR><BR>Rick<BR><BR><BR>From: "DOlivares" <<A
href="mailto:seravilo@netzero.net">seravilo@netzero.net</A>><BR>Reply-To:
DOlivares <<A
href="mailto:seravilo@netzero.net">seravilo@netzero.net</A>><BR>To: <<A
href="mailto:syty@syty.org">syty@syty.org</A>><BR>Subject: [Syty] Broke &
Stumped!<BR>Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2006 19:36:17 -0600<BR><BR>Who watches The
Watcher?<BR><BR>Who advises The Guru?<BR><BR>Who assists The Good
Samaritan?<BR><BR>I think we're about to find out pretty soon-- at least until I
can get my <BR>Lapdog running again (and one of the diagnostic programs to
troubleshoot my <BR>li'l pony):<BR><BR>Meanwhile, I NEED HELP! With my
laptop in pieces all over the bench, I <BR>can't run DIACOM or DATALINK to give
me clues about the usual suspects:<BR><BR>Clean-livin' doesn't always pay off if
my holidaze so far are any <BR>indication. I spent Christmas Eve on a
carlift taking apart my right-front <BR>axle-- again!-- after being assured by
our local "Gear-Guru" (who fully <BR>rebuilt that differential less than 6
months before I started hearing that <BR>same CLUNKING on left turns again) that
all I needed was a new cir-clip (GM <BR>#14041989) to keep the axle from
popping-out of the side-gear in the <BR>differential. HAH! More bad
advice and I ended up taking a cab home.... <BR>More about that Horror
Show in a later mailing.<BR><BR>Meanwhile, we got our first technical freeze
down here in what was becoming <BR>tropical San Antone on Nov. 17th and our
first hard-freeze, appropriately, <BR>on Dec. 7th, and somewhere in between
those times ol' Syclone #773 began <BR>throwing fits during start-up and for the
first 5 or 6 minutes until the <BR>water jacket hits and stays at 180° or
so. I'm stumped for the first time <BR>in a decade or more! Here's
what happens:<BR><BR>Since the new Walbro fuel-pump went in a few months ago,
cranking times are <BR>way down... engine catches pretty quick, but now it won't
stay lit and <BR>"choke" with the new IAC, which went in along with a new TPS
and <BR>remote-adjustable FPR about a month before the new Walbro. Now, I
have to <BR>feather the pedal once the ignition gets going and hold the throttle
open a <BR>bit while the IAC hunts for about a dozen cycles making the tach
swing about <BR>1200 rpm back and forth until we hit the "sweet spot" and the
engine takes <BR>off smoothly and the IAC-hunting stops, at least for a
while. Now, it's <BR>safe to put her in gear and drive away as long as I
keep a little positive <BR>bias in the pedal for the next few minutes every time
I have to slow down to <BR>an idle or coast speed.<BR><BR>THIS PROBLEM IS
WICKEDLY WORSE ON COLD DAYS, where ambient air is in the 40s <BR>or below, which
thankfully is rare. (Ain't this global-warming great!) <BR>However,
on a couple of occasions when I did have to drive in the 30s-- and <BR>even
after reaching full-warm-up temperature-- the engine starts cutting out
<BR>seriously as the SES light comes on! Now, we're talking some MAJOR
pumping <BR>of the pedal to keep things lit and if I can get on a clear piece of
road <BR>and cruise a spell at 35 mph or better the problem goes away
completely, <BR>until I shutdown and the engine gets cold again. I barely
even recognize <BR>that SES light... hardly ever see it. Driving on warmer
days never sees a <BR>recurrence of that mid-period cutting-out, and idle is
smooth as is the rest <BR>of drivability. Warm start-ups see a few moments
of that IAC-hunting, but <BR>the rpm-sweeps are only on the order of 500rpm and
the whole anomaly goes <BR>away in about 30 seconds. I've NEVER
encountered anything like this in my <BR>many years of wrenching! Now,
it's time for some wretching!! All that ever <BR>gets logged in the way of
a trouble-code is 44... not too helpful!<BR><BR>Naturally, I replaced the O2
sensor-- no improvement at all! Everything <BR>described above
instinctually told me this was a weird thermal transient in <BR>the
injector-drive circuits or else the MAT, CTS or MAP I replaced (for the <BR>hell
of it) 3 years ago needed to be switched again. So I did... one at a
<BR>time to see if I could fault-locate the culprit that way. No
dice! I'm <BR>running out of hardware to replace! I've even tried
setting that 10-to-1 <BR>Chip to different settings, but the same nasty behavior
persists-- the <BR>engine's as well as my own!<BR><BR>WHO CAN TELL ME WHAT MY
PROBLEM(S) IS? Be nice, now....<BR><BR>Dennis
O.<BR><BR><BR>_______________________________________________<BR>Syty mailing
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