Try looking for a vacuum leak. The truck could be sucking air
from unapproved places, and the 'puter can't correct it. Colder
air = more extra O2.<br><br><div><span class="gmail_quote">On 1/3/06, <b class="gmail_sendername">DOlivares</b> <<a href="mailto:seravilo@netzero.net">seravilo@netzero.net</a>> wrote:</span><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="border-left: 1px solid rgb(204, 204, 204); margin: 0pt 0pt 0pt 0.8ex; padding-left: 1ex;">
<div><font color="#000080" face="Palatino Linotype" size="4">Yea,</font></div>
<div><font color="#000080" face="Palatino Linotype" size="4"></font> </div>
<div><font color="#000080" face="Palatino Linotype" size="4">
That's exactly what I was thinking early on in my diagnostic process... which is
why they CTS was the very first thing I replaced and checked for 5V at the
connector. That or the next-day replacement of the MAT (a.k.a. IAT)
should've solved the temp-triggered problem, BUT NO DICE IN EITHER CASE!
</font></div>
<div><font color="#000080" face="Palatino Linotype" size="4"></font> </div>
<div><font color="#000080" face="Palatino Linotype" size="4"> The
other likely cause could be due to my inadvertent replacing one bad
sensor(s) with another one right out of the box-- it's possible but
unlikely. Moreover, if I had bad wiring or bad sensors the ECM would throw
an appropriate sensor/wire-fault code (e.g., 14, 23, 25 or <em>something</em>
else) instead of that stupid "44." Unless the Spark Module or ECM 10-in-1
is miraculously acting as its own temp-sensor input (and from that snide
remark you might be able to guess what my feelings about <em>that</em>
possibility are), I pretty much remain STUMPED.</font></div>
<div><font color="#000080" face="Palatino Linotype" size="4"></font> </div>
<div><font color="#000080" face="Palatino Linotype" size="4"> In
the past couple of daze (not days!), it's been in the low/middle-80s here in the
Alamo City, and when I went to cold-start the 'Clone both times with ambient air
above 70 the engine fires right up with none of that hunt-and-swing
baloney. Same thing this morning on my way to my first-ever ROOT-CANAL
procedure: Air temp was just at 60 and the motor fired right up, idled
"high" as in proper choke-mode, and I took off smooth as silk; however, it did
go into that balk-and-cut-out routine about a block away from my driveway.
It also went away faster than normal and the rest of my merry ride to the oral
butcher went without incident.</font></div>
<div><font color="#000080" face="Palatino Linotype" size="4"></font> </div>
<div><font color="#000080" face="Palatino Linotype" size="4"> So,
if I can just get it to stay above 70 every time I wanna go driving I'm free
from worries! I can't believe I'm the only one with this
syndrome...!</font></div>
<div><font color="#000080" face="Palatino Linotype" size="4"></font> </div>
<div><font color="#000080" face="Palatino Linotype" size="4">D.O.
<hr>
</font></div><span class="q">
<div style="font-family: arial; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; font-size: 10pt; line-height: normal; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal;">----- Original Message -----
<div style="background: rgb(228, 228, 228) none repeat scroll 0% 50%; -moz-background-clip: initial; -moz-background-origin: initial; -moz-background-inline-policy: initial;"><b>From:</b> <a title="tydriver@hotmail.com" href="mailto:tydriver@hotmail.com" target="_blank" onclick="return top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)">
Rick In Central
Texas</a> </div>
<div><b>To:</b> <a title="seravilo@netzero.net" href="mailto:seravilo@netzero.net" target="_blank" onclick="return top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)">seravilo@netzero.net</a> ; <a title="syty@syty.org" href="mailto:syty@syty.org" target="_blank" onclick="return top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)">
syty@syty.org</a> </div>
<div><b>Sent:</b> Tuesday, January 03, 2006 12:49 PM</div>
<div><b>Subject:</b> RE: [Syty] Broke & Stumped!</div></div>
<div><br></div></span><div><span class="e" id="q_1089228ca8a432df_2">One possibility... your coolant temp sensor or wiring is faulty,
and your <br>engine *thinks* it's hot when it's not. This would give a
lean condition. <br>HTH<br><br>Rick<br><br><br>From: "DOlivares" <<a href="mailto:seravilo@netzero.net" target="_blank" onclick="return top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)">seravilo@netzero.net</a>><br>
Reply-To:
DOlivares <<a href="mailto:seravilo@netzero.net" target="_blank" onclick="return top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)">seravilo@netzero.net</a>><br>To: <<a href="mailto:syty@syty.org" target="_blank" onclick="return top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)">
syty@syty.org</a>><br>Subject: [Syty] Broke &
Stumped!<br>Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2006 19:36:17 -0600<br><br>Who watches The
Watcher?<br><br>Who advises The Guru?<br><br>Who assists The Good
Samaritan?<br><br>I think we're about to find out pretty soon-- at least until I
can get my <br>Lapdog running again (and one of the diagnostic programs to
troubleshoot my <br>li'l pony):<br><br>Meanwhile, I NEED HELP! With my
laptop in pieces all over the bench, I <br>can't run DIACOM or DATALINK to give
me clues about the usual suspects:<br><br>Clean-livin' doesn't always pay off if
my holidaze so far are any <br>indication. I spent Christmas Eve on a
carlift taking apart my right-front <br>axle-- again!-- after being assured by
our local "Gear-Guru" (who fully <br>rebuilt that differential less than 6
months before I started hearing that <br>same CLUNKING on left turns again) that
all I needed was a new cir-clip (GM <br>#14041989) to keep the axle from
popping-out of the side-gear in the <br>differential. HAH! More bad
advice and I ended up taking a cab home.... <br>More about that Horror
Show in a later mailing.<br><br>Meanwhile, we got our first technical freeze
down here in what was becoming <br>tropical San Antone on Nov. 17th and our
first hard-freeze, appropriately, <br>on Dec. 7th, and somewhere in between
those times ol' Syclone #773 began <br>throwing fits during start-up and for the
first 5 or 6 minutes until the <br>water jacket hits and stays at 180° or
so. I'm stumped for the first time <br>in a decade or more! Here's
what happens:<br><br>Since the new Walbro fuel-pump went in a few months ago,
cranking times are <br>way down... engine catches pretty quick, but now it won't
stay lit and <br>"choke" with the new IAC, which went in along with a new TPS
and <br>remote-adjustable FPR about a month before the new Walbro. Now, I
have to <br>feather the pedal once the ignition gets going and hold the throttle
open a <br>bit while the IAC hunts for about a dozen cycles making the tach
swing about <br>1200 rpm back and forth until we hit the "sweet spot" and the
engine takes <br>off smoothly and the IAC-hunting stops, at least for a
while. Now, it's <br>safe to put her in gear and drive away as long as I
keep a little positive <br>bias in the pedal for the next few minutes every time
I have to slow down to <br>an idle or coast speed.<br><br>THIS PROBLEM IS
WICKEDLY WORSE ON COLD DAYS, where ambient air is in the 40s <br>or below, which
thankfully is rare. (Ain't this global-warming great!) <br>However,
on a couple of occasions when I did have to drive in the 30s-- and <br>even
after reaching full-warm-up temperature-- the engine starts cutting out
<br>seriously as the SES light comes on! Now, we're talking some MAJOR
pumping <br>of the pedal to keep things lit and if I can get on a clear piece of
road <br>and cruise a spell at 35 mph or better the problem goes away
completely, <br>until I shutdown and the engine gets cold again. I barely
even recognize <br>that SES light... hardly ever see it. Driving on warmer
days never sees a <br>recurrence of that mid-period cutting-out, and idle is
smooth as is the rest <br>of drivability. Warm start-ups see a few moments
of that IAC-hunting, but <br>the rpm-sweeps are only on the order of 500rpm and
the whole anomaly goes <br>away in about 30 seconds. I've NEVER
encountered anything like this in my <br>many years of wrenching! Now,
it's time for some wretching!! All that ever <br>gets logged in the way of
a trouble-code is 44... not too helpful!<br><br>Naturally, I replaced the O2
sensor-- no improvement at all! Everything <br>described above
instinctually told me this was a weird thermal transient in <br>the
injector-drive circuits or else the MAT, CTS or MAP I replaced (for the <br>hell
of it) 3 years ago needed to be switched again. So I did... one at a
<br>time to see if I could fault-locate the culprit that way. No
dice! I'm <br>running out of hardware to replace! I've even tried
setting that 10-to-1 <br>Chip to different settings, but the same nasty behavior
persists-- the <br>engine's as well as my own!<br><br>WHO CAN TELL ME WHAT MY
PROBLEM(S) IS? Be nice, now....<br><br>Dennis
O.<br><br><br>_______________________________________________<br>Syty mailing
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