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<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>Not
quite...</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>I buy my Ether (a.k.a.
Starting Fluid) <STRONG>in bulk at 99¢ per 12oz spraycan</STRONG>. Ya
can't get even a mini-can of WD-40 for that kinda dough anymore. Plus,
ether evaporates <EM>fast</EM>, taking all the adsorbed water with it, doesn't
linger on and thereby degrade/dissolve the plastic surface dist-cap, and leaves
no or little residue, unlike WD-40, which can slowly oxidize and gunk-up the
'cap with all that arcing and ozone....</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>And sniffing ether is
almost as good as sniffing airplane glue... for those of you so inclined!
I liked the history lesson though. NASA gave us Tang and teflon; the Army
gave us WD-40... makes me feel proud every April 15th...!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>D.O.
<HR>
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message -----
<DIV style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A
title=lewisstraughn@netscape.com href="mailto:lewisstraughn@netscape.com">Lewis
Straughn</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=undisclosed-recipients:
href="mailto:undisclosed-recipients:">undisclosed-recipients:</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Cc:</B> <A title=seravilo@netzero.net
href="mailto:seravilo@netzero.net">DOlivares</A> ; <A title=syty@syty.org
href="mailto:syty@syty.org">syty@syty.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, January 04, 2006 11:41 AM</DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> Re: [Syty] Broke & Stumped!</DIV></DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>PS: The US Government put out a contract back in the early
50's for a solution to the old Jeeps that when driven through streams and the
like would get water in the electrical system and they needed something that
would work to displace the water quickly and allow the troupes to move on. The
company that finally got the answer tried 40 times with various compounds before
they were successful. The reason was it had to allow electrical current to
continue and not be blocked by the compound. <BR><BR>They named the product
WD-40 (Water Displacement - 40th try) <BR><BR>There are so many uses that were
found for this miracle spray later, but many have forgotten it's original
purpose.<BR><BR>WD-40 is cheaper than ether and easier to find.<BR><BR>Here is
the website that has the details of the history of WD40, read the second
paragraph.<BR><A class=moz-txt-link-freetext
href="http://www.wd40.com/AboutUs/our_history.html">http://www.wd40.com/AboutUs/our_history.html</A><BR><BR>A
little trivia,<BR>Lewis Straughn<BR><BR>Lewis Straughn wrote:
<BLOCKQUOTE cite=mid43BC0273.5000301@netscape.com type="cite">Dennis,
<BR><BR>I had the same problem with the screws in the distributor cap and that
will cause the problem you are having. I know it is hard to get to that screw,
but what I had to do was just get one screw started a couple of turns and then
get the other one going and then be sure I had the cap pushed down to the
bottom and seated in position and then tighten each screw a little at the time
until I had them both tight. I don't know why it is so hard to get the cap in
position, but it is and when you get it you will know it. I had to walk away a
couple of times because it was a job for Houdini.<BR><BR>Hope that
helps,<BR>Lewis Straughn<BR><BR>DOlivares wrote:
<BLOCKQUOTE cite=mid002901c6113f$f7d48630$05f46942@coresys1 type="cite">
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<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>Yep, had
<EM>all</EM> those bases covered before admitting to being
STUMPED!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>FPR is brand-new;
Conrad Cap and Rotor are brand-new, although <EM>only one bolt can be
secured</EM> to the Distributor-- bizarre manufacturing flaw... anyone else
ever see this? I just bought another one yesterday, but that
<EM>won't</EM> fix this problem....</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>I've taken enough
engines through hot pressure-washes to recognize and know how to defeat
water in the Distributor as well: a screwdriver and a spray-can of
ether!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>Keep
trying,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>D.O.
<HR>
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT: 10pt arial; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal">-----
Original Message -----
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: rgb(228,228,228) 0% 50%; moz-background-clip: initial; moz-background-origin: initial; moz-background-inline-policy: initial"><B>From:</B>
<A title=theodore.metzing@verizon.net
href="mailto:theodore.metzing@verizon.net">Ted Metzing</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=seravilo@netzero.net
href="mailto:seravilo@netzero.net">DOlivares</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Monday, January 02, 2006 9:54 PM</DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> Re: [Syty] Broke & Stumped!</DIV></DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>Hey Dennis, I'm not all that great at diagnosing problems but
when you said that you replaced the fuel pump to the Walbro, did you
re-adjust the FPR? Maybe too much gas for a cold engine to burn off until
warm? Or what about a crack in the distributor cap, letting moisture build
up inside it from the previously warm motor (when off) then when cold the
moisture is preventing the spark from arcing? Had a problem like that on my
Harley with the coil-pack, wouldn't start until all moisture evaporated
(warm day or a hot motor). These are just guesses, again not qualified as a
problem solver. Good luck.<BR><BR>Ted Metzing<BR>93 TY #0190<BR>06
Trailblazer SS<BR><BR><BR>DOlivares wrote:
<BLOCKQUOTE cite=mid000d01c60fc7$36f62f50$10f46942@coresys1 type="cite">
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<STYLE></STYLE>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>Thanks... so far,
and happy New Year... <EM>et pax hominibus boni
voluntatis!</EM></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>[You know who you
are.]</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>Unfortunately, I
have <EM>tried</EM> all those diagnostic trees-- even a couple of bushes
for good measure! This episode has been going on for nearly a
month. As I said, I'm running out of hardware to swap-out. The
only things I haven't diddled with is the <STRONG>EST Module</STRONG> in
the Distributor and of course the <STRONG>ECM/chip</STRONG>.
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>The reason I
haven't fooled with those things is that the misbehavior complained of is
SO PREDICTABLE and only afflicts COLD-START-UP conditions, except when
it's really cold outside in which case I will get precisely ONE chug-a-lug
spasm about 5 minutes into the run-up to full operating
temperature... just after everything had been going just fine.
That's the worst of it... as far as I can tell without a scantool...
seat-of-the-pants power and smoothness is better than ever,
otherwise. This is no "intermittent." This is pure
predictability! And my experience with bad chips and modules is that
they either fail outright or exhibit sporadic, random upsets... before
failing outright. That's not what's occurring. Even so, I
might drop in my spare EST (Holley Annihilator) just for
laughs....</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>Keep thinking...
what <EM>else</EM> could it be??? What's the connection to cold/cool
ambient temperature?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>D.O.
<HR>
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT: 10pt arial; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal">-----
Original Message -----
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: rgb(228,228,228) 0% 50%; moz-background-clip: initial; moz-background-origin: initial; moz-background-inline-policy: initial"><B>From:</B>
<A title=leroy@sunflower.com href="mailto:leroy@sunflower.com">Jim
Sloan</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=seravilo@netzero.net
href="mailto:seravilo@netzero.net">'DOlivares'</A> ; <A
title=syty@syty.org href="mailto:syty@syty.org">syty@syty.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Monday, January 02, 2006 8:11 AM</DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> RE: [Syty] Broke & Stumped!</DIV></DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=004520414-02012006><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2>Happy New Year Dennis!</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=004520414-02012006></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=004520414-02012006><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2>I've had hardware problems with several of the 10-1
adapters. You could swap back to the stock memcal (and map sensor)
to rule that out, if your build isn't too radical.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=004520414-02012006></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=004520414-02012006><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2>I usually keep at least one spare ecm for a
substitution test, and have seen quite a few fail in weird ways. Let
me know if you need one.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=004520414-02012006></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=004520414-02012006><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2>Sometimes it helps to go back to the basics, and
follow the diagnostics in the service manual <A
href="http://syty.org/old/d&e-code44.html">http://syty.org/old/d&e-code44.html</A> .</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=004520414-02012006></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=004520414-02012006><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2>Just a few ideas, if you haven't already tried
them.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=004520414-02012006></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=004520414-02012006><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2>Jim </FONT></SPAN></DIV><BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr
style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: rgb(0,0,255) 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV class=OutlookMessageHeader lang=en-us dir=ltr align=left>
<HR tabIndex=-1>
<FONT face=Tahoma size=2><B>From:</B> <A class=moz-txt-link-abbreviated
href="mailto:syty-bounces@syty.org">syty-bounces@syty.org</A> [<A
class=moz-txt-link-freetext
href="mailto:syty-bounces@syty.org">mailto:syty-bounces@syty.org</A>]
<B>On Behalf Of </B>DOlivares<BR><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, January 01, 2006
7:36 PM<BR><B>To:</B> <A class=moz-txt-link-abbreviated
href="mailto:syty@syty.org">syty@syty.org</A><BR><B>Subject:</B> [Syty]
Broke & Stumped!<BR><B>Importance:</B> High<BR></FONT><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>Who watches The
Watcher? </FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>Who advises The
Guru?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>Who assists The
Good Samaritan?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>I think we're
about to find out pretty soon-- at least until I can get my Lapdog
running again (and one of the diagnostic programs to troubleshoot my
li'l pony)</FONT><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080
size=4>:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>Meanwhile, I
NEED HELP! With my laptop in pieces all over the bench, I can't
run DIACOM or DATALINK to give me clues about the usual
suspects:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>Clean-livin'
doesn't always pay off if my holidaze so far are any indication. I
spent Christmas Eve on a carlift taking apart my right-front axle--
again!-- after being assured by our local "Gear-Guru" (who fully rebuilt
that differential less than 6 months before I started hearing that
same CLUNKING on left turns again) that all I needed was a new
cir-clip (GM #14041989) to keep the axle from popping-out of the
side-gear in the differential. HAH! More bad advice and I
ended up taking a cab home.... More about that Horror Show in a
later mailing.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>Meanwhile, we
got our first technical freeze down here in what was becoming
<EM>tropical</EM> San Antone on Nov. 17th and our first hard-freeze,
appropriately, on Dec. 7th, and somewhere in between those times ol'
Syclone #773 began <STRONG>throwing fits during start-up and for the
first 5 or 6 minutes until the water jacket hits and stays at
180°</STRONG> or so. I'm stumped for the first time in a decade or
more! Here's what happens:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>Since the
<EM>new</EM> Walbro fuel-pump went in a few months ago, cranking times
are way down... engine catches pretty quick, but now it won't stay lit
and "choke" with the <EM>new</EM> IAC, which went in along with a
<EM>new</EM> TPS and remote-adjustable FPR about a month before the new
Walbro. Now, I have to feather the pedal once the ignition gets
going and hold the throttle open a bit while the IAC hunts for about a
dozen cycles making the tach swing about 1200 rpm back and forth until
we hit the "sweet spot" and the engine takes off smoothly and the
IAC-hunting stops, at least for a while. Now, it's safe to put her
in gear and drive away as long as I keep a little positive bias in the
pedal for the next few minutes every time I have to slow down to an idle
or coast speed. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>THIS PROBLEM IS
WICKEDLY WORSE ON COLD DAYS, where ambient air is in the 40s or
below, which thankfully is rare. (Ain't this global-warming
great!) However, on a couple of occasions when I did have to drive
in the 30s-- and even <EM>after</EM> reaching full-warm-up temperature--
the engine starts cutting out seriously as the SES light comes on!
Now, we're talking some MAJOR pumping of the pedal to keep things lit
and if I can get on a clear piece of road and cruise a spell at 35 mph
or better the problem goes away <EM>completely</EM>, until I shutdown
and the engine gets cold again. I barely even recognize that SES
light... hardly ever see it. Driving on warmer days never sees a
recurrence of that mid-period cutting-out, and idle is smooth as is the
rest of drivability. Warm start-ups see a few moments of that
IAC-hunting, but the rpm-sweeps are only on the order of 500rpm and the
whole anomaly goes away in about 30 seconds. I've NEVER
encountered anything like this in my many years of wrenching! Now,
it's time for some wretching!! All that ever gets logged in the
way of a trouble-code is <STRONG><FONT
color=#ff0000>44</FONT></STRONG>... not too helpful!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>Naturally, I
replaced the O2 sensor-- no improvement at all! Everything
described above instinctually told me this was a weird thermal transient
in the injector-drive circuits or else the MAT, CTS or MAP I replaced
(for the hell of it) 3 years ago needed to be switched again. So I
<EM>did</EM>... one at a time to see if I could fault-locate the culprit
that way. No dice! I'm running out of hardware to
replace! I've even tried setting that 10-to-1 Chip to different
settings, but the same nasty behavior persists-- the engine's as well as
my own!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4><STRONG>WHO CAN
TELL ME WHAT MY PROBLEM(S) IS?</STRONG> Be nice,
now....</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>Dennis
O.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV></BLOCKQUOTE><PRE wrap=""><HR width="90%" SIZE=4>
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