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<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>I don't know about that
"exhaust" part, but I've been in enough of those Transmissions to know about
that delicate TV-Lifter mechanism, which is actually only "delicate" when you're
<EM>inside</EM> messing with the valve-body or various front-mounted
valves/wiring with the pan OFF... jiggling things around the dipstick
area. Once you button-up the pan, that S-shape bend at the end of the
Bowden-type TV-Cable really cannot work its way out of the li'l hole in the
Lifter-Arm's lever, provided you set it up right and adjust the 'Cable
properly.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>Of course, if you
<EM>never</EM> had the pan off in the first place-- and didn't ABUSE the
TV-Cable by twisting it or jamming it in-and-out with undue, ape-like force--
you probably don't have to worry about its being disconnected from that Rod-end
or the cable breaking. That twisted-steel cable is tough as railroad tie
and you really have to WORK to kink it! Breaking or fraying the thing
would require TOOLS and deliberate bad intentions. You just need to make
sure you have the TV-Cable Bracket properly mounted to the manifold/TB and then
do the throttle adjustment of said 'Cable by the book! I have the feeling
you're doing the "mashing-down" of the gas pedal part, but you're FAILING to do
the CRITICAL MECHANICAL RESET of the 'Cable itself, which is primordial and
requires deliberate effort... along with a narrow pair of pliers...
needle-nosers come to mind....</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>Well, did it
work?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>D.O.
<HR>
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message -----
<DIV style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A
title=technowizard@prodigy.net href="mailto:technowizard@prodigy.net">Peter</A>
</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=syty@syty.org href="mailto:syty@syty.org">syty</A>
</DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, January 03, 2006 2:26 AM</DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> [Syty] What is TV valve lifter rod?</DIV></DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV id=RTEContent>Gentlemen,</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>While working on the throttle body last night, I disconnected the TV
cable. When I reconnected and took a test drive, the shift points are
delayed and extremely hard.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Section 7A1-58 of the service manual says something about the "TV valve
lifter rod" dropping down to allow the TV exhaust ball to seat if the cable is
broken, disconnected, or extremely out of adjustment. I think this is what
happened.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>It then says if the transmission pan is removed, it should be
possible to pull down on the TV exhaust valve lifter rod and let the springs
return the rod to its normal up position.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>No pictures or other mention of the TV valve anywhere that I can
find.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Has this happened to anyone else? If so, any tips on correcting
it?</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Thanks,</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Peter Albrecht</DIV>
<P>
<HR>
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