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<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>I'd soak the pinion nut
in <EM><U>Kroil</U></EM> or <U><EM>Sili-Kroil</EM></U> for an hour or so
(applied in 3 separate sprayings) after which-- based on my experience with that
wonder-oil-- you might damn well be able to twist it off with your bare
hand! Well, almost....</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>I'd also be using one
of those "unisex" sockets which cam-grip fasteners from their shoulders and
hence work on comparably sized metrics or SAEs. Harbor Freight/Pittsburg
sells a good set of these for less than $30, last I checked, and in impact-grade
to boot!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>Failing to get Dual-fit
Socket, you can <EM>further</EM> grind down the corners of the Nut... just
enough so you can HAMMER-ON the next-smallest socket you have, SAE or
Metric. At that point, you will not get any further rounding-off and can
proceed with a mega-breaker-bar or, preferably, a Joe-Frazier-grade IMPACT
WRENCH!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>Be sure you go and get
a new Nut from GM or generic gear-purveyor before you wreck your old one,
needless to say.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>As an aside, I can
accept your need to remove the Axles so you can get on those new backing plates
and parking-brake rigging, but I know at least I could do so WITHOUT having to
remove the pinion, which is gonna cause you a lot of grief for no reason short
of swapping-in a new posi, bearings or ring and/or pinion-- same 3.42
ration of course... otherwise you'll "sugar" your Transaxle.... WHY are
you so fixated on that Nut?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>Good luck in any
event,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>D.O.
<HR>
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message -----
<DIV style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A
title=jdeisenroth@excite.com href="mailto:jdeisenroth@excite.com">JOE
DEISENROTH</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=syty@syty.org
href="mailto:syty@syty.org">syty@syty.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Monday, January 09, 2006 12:54 PM</DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> [Syty] RE: rear axle problem</DIV></DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV><BR><BR>Help!!!<BR><BR>Upgrading rear brakes on Syclone.
<BR><BR>The last person to remove the pinion shaft retaining bolt rounded the
head somewhat and now I can't get it out. It is not totally rounded, but the
edges are just enough not to be able to get the wrench to hold and turn the
bolt.<BR><BR>I need to remove the axles in order to change the caliper mounting
plate.<BR><BR>Any ideas?<BR><BR>I've tried six point sockets and line wrench
without success.<BR><BR>Joe Deisenroth<BR>Valley Pool & Spa<BR>4741C. E Palm
Canyon Dr.<BR>PMB 116<BR>Palm Springs, CA 92264<BR>Phone - (760) 778-3939<BR>Fax
- (760) 772-5860<BR><A
href="http://www.valleypool-spa.com">www.valleypool-spa.com</A><BR><BR> ---
On Wed 10/26, <A href="mailto:syty-request@syty.org">syty-request@syty.org</A>
< <A href="mailto:syty-request@syty.org">syty-request@syty.org</A> >
wrote:<BR>From: <A href="mailto:syty-request@syty.org">syty-request@syty.org</A>
[mailto: <A
href="mailto:syty-request@syty.org">syty-request@syty.org</A>]<BR>To: <A
href="mailto:syty@syty.org">syty@syty.org</A><BR>Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2005 14:28:44
-0400 (EDT)<BR>Subject: Syty Digest, Vol 9, Issue 2<BR><BR>Send Syty mailing
list submissions to<br> <A
href="mailto:syty@syty.org<br><br>To">syty@syty.org<br><br>To</A>
subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit<br> <A
href="http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty<br>or">http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty<br>or</A>,
via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to<br> <A
href="mailto:syty-request@syty.org<br><br>You">syty-request@syty.org<br><br>You</A>
can reach the person managing the list at<br> <A
href="mailto:syty-owner@syty.org<br><br>When">syty-owner@syty.org<br><br>When</A>
replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific<br>than
"Re: Contents of Syty digest..."<br><br><br>Today's
Topics:<br><br> 1. Pulling and replacing the Trans (<A
href="mailto:L1D2B@aol.com)<br">L1D2B@aol.com)<br</A>> 2. Re:
Pulling and replacing the Trans (Brian Hartman)<br> 3. Jeff
Nass (<A
href="mailto:Merk1993@aol.com)<br">Merk1993@aol.com)<br</A>>
4. M. Kilkenny (<A
href="mailto:Merk1993@aol.com)<br">Merk1993@aol.com)<br</A>>
5. Alignment woes (JOE DEISENROTH)<br> 6. Re: Alignment woes
(<A
href="mailto:OneGn1Ty@aol.com)<br">OneGn1Ty@aol.com)<br</A>>
7. RE: Alignment woes (Richard Chan)<br> 8. License plate
bulbs (<A
href="mailto:GMCTy@aol.com)<br">GMCTy@aol.com)<br</A>> 9.
Brian Hartman (Routhier, Ron CIV (TRFKB
<BR>C400))<br><br><br>----------------------------------------------------------------------<br><br>Message:
1<br>Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2005 23:27:58 EDT<br>From: <A
href="mailto:L1D2B@aol.com<br>Subject">L1D2B@aol.com<br>Subject</A>:
[Syty] Pulling and replacing the Trans<br>To: <A
href="mailto:syty@syty.org">syty@syty.org</A>, <A
href="mailto:tta-f-body@topica.com">tta-f-body@topica.com</A>, <A
href="mailto:ldbrown@suncor.com,<br">ldbrown@suncor.com,<br</A>> <A
href="mailto:L1D2B@aol.com<br>Message-ID">L1D2B@aol.com<br>Message-ID</A>:
<<A
href="mailto:1fb.12cef13c.307c8b3e@aol.com><br>Content-Type">1fb.12cef13c.307c8b3e@aol.com><br>Content-Type</A>:
text/plain; charset="us-ascii"<br><br>Hopefully this will get to the
TTA and SyTy lists,<br> <br>For those who, like me, pretty much have
to do all their car work alone - on <br>pulling and replacing the
Transmission :<br> <br>I have tried to do it w a standard Trans
jack. These jacks are too tall, and <br>U cannot get the trans/jack
combo out from under OR, when reinstalling, back <br>under the car.
Not such a big deal when pulling it out because U can just <br>slide
it off the jack and drag it out on the floor. And I'm talking with the
<br>front wheels at least a foot off the ground.<br>
<br>However when <BR>reinstalling, it is really hard to lift this 160-180
# monster <br>onto the jack while on your back under the car. I did
it once and about killed <br> myself - never again. <br>
<br>So when I saw those real low motorcycle jacks, I thought I saw a
solution. I <br>tried it and it works ! U need to get the front wheels ~
10" off the ground, <br>but it will slide through the back of the
front wheel well. However I needed <br>to make a sheet steel plate
on top of the jack for the trans to rest on <br>because the platform
arms on the jack were wider apart than the bottom of the <br>trans
pan.<br> <br>If anyone wants pics, I have 2 of them.<br>
<br>Lynn D. Brown<br>'87 GN, '89 TTA, '93
Typhoon<br>Denver & SoCal<br>-------------- next part
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2<br>Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2005 21:57:53 <BR>-0600 (GMT-06:00)<br>From:
Brian Hartman <<A
href="mailto:brianhartman@sprintmail.com><br>Subject">brianhartman@sprintmail.com><br>Subject</A>:
Re: [Syty] Pulling and replacing the Trans<br>To: <A
href="mailto:L1D2B@aol.com<br>Cc">L1D2B@aol.com<br>Cc</A>: <A
href="mailto:syty@syty.org<br>Message-ID:<br">syty@syty.org<br>Message-ID:<br</A>>
<<A
href="mailto:23972691.1129003073973.JavaMail.root@elwamui-little.atl.sa.earthlink.net><br">23972691.1129003073973.JavaMail.root@elwamui-little.atl.sa.earthlink.net><br</A>>
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3<br>Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2005 09:27:17 EDT<br>From: <A
href="mailto:Merk1993@aol.com<br>Subject">Merk1993@aol.com<br>Subject</A>:
[Syty] Jeff Nass<br>To: <A
href="mailto:syty@syty.org<br>Message-ID">syty@syty.org<br>Message-ID</A>:
<<A
href="mailto:77.4fbf34de.307e6935@aol.com><br>Content-Type">77.4fbf34de.307e6935@aol.com><br>Content-Type</A>:
text/plain; charset="us-ascii"<br><br>still out
there?<br><br>Please contact
me.<br><br>Thanks<br>-------------- next part
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4<br>Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2005 09:27:42 EDT<br>From: <A
href="mailto:Merk1993@aol.com<br>Subject">Merk1993@aol.com<br>Subject</A>:
[Syty] M. Kilkenny<br>To: <A
href="mailto:syty@syty.org<br>Message-ID">syty@syty.org<br>Message-ID</A>:
<<A
href="mailto:1eb.453d68da.307e694e@aol.com><br>Content-Type">1eb.453d68da.307e694e@aol.com><br>Content-Type</A>:
text/plain; charset="us-ascii"<br><br>Still out
there?<br><br>Please contact
me.<br><br>THanks<br>-------------- next part
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5<br>Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2005 09:40:12 -0400 (EDT)<br>From: "JOE
DEISENROTH" <<A
href="mailto:jdeisenroth@excite.com><br>Subject">jdeisenroth@excite.com><br>Subject</A>:
[Syty] Alignment woes<br>To: <A
href="mailto:syty@syty.org<br>Message-ID">syty@syty.org<br>Message-ID</A>:
<<A
href="mailto:20051016134012.8C906B6D3@xprdmailfe15.nwk.excite.com><br>Content-Type">20051016134012.8C906B6D3@xprdmailfe15.nwk.excite.com><br>Content-Type</A>:
text/plain; charset="us-ascii"<br><br><br>"91 Syclone
(QWKTWUK)133,000 mls<br><br>I go through <BR>front tires every 7500
- 10000 miles<br><br>Recently changed wheels to ZR1 Corvette style
running 275/40/17<br>Sumitoma tires<br><br>3000 miles and I
have to change the front tires due to extreme wear (the cords are showing) at
the first exterior rib on both front tires<br><br>Alignment has been
checked often and find no worn parts or bad specs.<br><br>1) What is
involved in rebuilding the front suspension, any graphite kits
avaliable?<br><br>2) Could this be caused by a problem w/ the front
diff, clutches etc?<br><br>Any input is
appreciated.<br><br><br>Joe Deisenroth<br>Valley Pool
& Spa<br>4741C. E Palm Canyon Dr.<br>PMB 116<br>Palm
Springs, CA 92264<br>Phone - (760) 778-3939<br>Fax - (760)
772-5860<br>www.valleypool-spa.com<br><br><br><br><br>------------------------------<br><br>Message:
6<br>Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2005 13:56:10 EDT<br>From: <A
href="mailto:OneGn1Ty@aol.com<br>Subject">OneGn1Ty@aol.com<br>Subject</A>:
Re: [Syty] Alignment woes<br>To: <A
href="mailto:JDEISENROTH@excite.com">JDEISENROTH@excite.com</A>, <A
href="mailto:syty@syty.org<br>Message-ID">syty@syty.org<br>Message-ID</A>:
<BR><<A
href="mailto:1d9.470e5f43.3083ee3a@aol.com><br>Content-Type">1d9.470e5f43.3083ee3a@aol.com><br>Content-Type</A>:
text/plain; charset="us-ascii"<br><br>Hi,<br>I used to have
similar problems with alignment. Have you tried having a <br>place
that uses the Hunter(I think it's called the Hunter 9000). It does a
<br>roadforce simulation, and can narrow in to get a correct balance. Also
many <br>technicians(if you prefer to call the jacklegs at service
centers that) don't cone <br>our wheels correctly when balancing. I
replaced the idler arm, amnd upper and <br>lower ball joints in mine
about a year ago around 130,000mi. That also helped
<br>tremendously. But the Hunter Roadforce balance is the stuff!<br>
<br>Cheryl<br>'93 Typhoon<br>'86
GN<br>http://www.hometown.aol.com/onegn1ty/myhomepageindex.html<br>--------------
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<BR>7<br>Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2005 14:52:15 -0700<br>From: "Richard
Chan" <<A
href="mailto:rchan@uniserve.com><br>Subject">rchan@uniserve.com><br>Subject</A>:
RE: [Syty] Alignment woes<br>To: <<A
href="mailto:JDEISENROTH@excite.com><br>Cc">JDEISENROTH@excite.com><br>Cc</A>:
<A
href="mailto:syty@syty.org<br>Message-ID">syty@syty.org<br>Message-ID</A>:
<<A
href="mailto:000501c5d29b$e09ee240$c4b0fea9@astsabre><br>Content-Type">000501c5d29b$e09ee240$c4b0fea9@astsabre><br>Content-Type</A>:
text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"<br><br>There are two possible
reason for outter tire wear, toe and camber.<br><br>Inccorrectly
adjusted toe can wear out a tire in as little as 5000 to<br>7500 miles on
the outter edge of tire. Check the Sy/Ty website for<br>specs.
You want a before and after alignment printout.<br><br>Toe is
usually correct by adjusting the sleeves that connect the inner<br>and
outer tie rods on each side of the centre link. Before adjusting
I<br>would check the idler arm and the rest of the suspension parts for
any<br>loose or worn parts.<br><br>Camber on Sy/Ty are adjust
by turning the nuts and bolt that pass<br>through and offset washer in the
upper control arm bushings. I would<br>check the upper <BR>control
arm bushing for wear from the excess heat of the<br>engine before
replacing any ball joints. Energy suspension makes upper<br>and lower
control arm bushings.<br><br>-----Original
Message-----<br>From: <A
href="mailto:syty-bounces@syty.org">syty-bounces@syty.org</A>
[mailto:syty-bounces@syty.org] On Behalf Of<br>JOE
DEISENROTH<br>Sent: October 16, 2005 6:40 AM<br>To: <A
href="mailto:syty@syty.org<br>Subject">syty@syty.org<br>Subject</A>:
[Syty] Alignment woes<br><br><br><br>"91 Syclone
(QWKTWUK)133,000 mls<br><br>I go through front tires every 7500 -
10000 miles<br><br>Recently changed wheels to ZR1 Corvette style
running 275/40/17 Sumitoma<br>tires<br><br>3000 miles and I
have to change the front tires due to extreme wear (the<br>cords are
showing) at the first exterior rib on both front
tires<br><br>Alignment has been checked often and find no worn parts
or bad specs.<br><br>1) What is involved in rebuilding the front
suspension, any graphite<br>kits avaliable?<br><br>2) Could
this be caused by a problem w/ the front diff, clutches
etc?<br><br>Any input <BR>is
appreciated.<br><br><br>Joe Deisenroth<br>Valley Pool
& Spa<br>4741C. E Palm Canyon Dr.<br>PMB 116<br>Palm
Springs, CA 92264<br>Phone - (760) 778-3939<br>Fax - (760)
772-5860<br>www.valleypool-spa.com<br><br><br>_______________________________________________<br>Syty
mailing
list<br>Syty@syty.org<br>http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty<br><br><br><br>------------------------------<br><br>Message:
8<br>Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2005 22:09:07 EDT<br>From: <A
href="mailto:GMCTy@aol.com<br>Subject">GMCTy@aol.com<br>Subject</A>:
[Syty] License plate bulbs<br>To: <A
href="mailto:syty@syty.org<br>Message-ID">syty@syty.org<br>Message-ID</A>:
<<A
href="mailto:1e9.46e14702.3089a7c3@aol.com><br>Content-Type">1e9.46e14702.3089a7c3@aol.com><br>Content-Type</A>:
text/plain; charset="us-ascii"<br><br>Stupid question. How do you
remove the holder for the bulb. Does it twist <br>off or do you pry
it which i don't want to do.<br>Howie<br>93
Ty<br>-------------- next part --------------<br>An HTML attachment
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9<br>Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2005 14:26:09 -0400<br>From: "Routhier, Ron
CIV (TRFKB C400)" <<A
href="mailto:Ron_Routhier@trfkb.navy.mil><br>Subject">Ron_Routhier@trfkb.navy.mil><br>Subject</A>:
[Syty] Brian Hartman<br>To: "<A
href="mailto:'syty@syty.org'">'syty@syty.org'</A>" <<A
href="mailto:syty@syty.org><br>Message-ID:<br">syty@syty.org><br>Message-ID:<br</A>>
<<A
href="mailto:2B9F40DB39EBD51181A600034773CA59072C3F0C@trfkba652a01.trfkb.navy.mil><br>Content-Type">2B9F40DB39EBD51181A600034773CA59072C3F0C@trfkba652a01.trfkb.navy.mil><br>Content-Type</A>:
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mailing
list<br>Syty@syty.org<br>http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty<br><br><br>End
of <BR>Syty Digest, Vol 9, Issue
2<br>**********************************<br><BR><BR><BR>_______________________________________________<BR>Syty
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