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<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>Thanks,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>I'll look him up.
He's probably like this guy who wanted to "Syclone" his Camaro:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=5><A
href="http://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/tech/1990conversion.shtml">http://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/tech/1990conversion.shtml</A></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>Personally-- with an
admitted bias toward all my hands-on experience with the GN/TTA motors and
controls-- I'd rather convert my Sy and Ty to the MAF-based Buick system.
It's SEQUENTIAL, more "forgiving" to bolt-on and build-in mods, and NEVER gave
me any PROM or ECM problems like I'm having now!!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>D.O.
<HR>
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message -----
<DIV style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A
title=eqs@frontiernet.net
href="mailto:eqs@frontiernet.net">eqs@frontiernet.net</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=seravilo@netzero.net
href="mailto:seravilo@netzero.net">DOlivares</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Cc:</B> <A title=leroy@sunflower.com
href="mailto:leroy@sunflower.com">Jim Sloan</A> ; <A title=syty@syty.org
href="mailto:syty@syty.org">syty@syty.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Friday, February 03, 2006 2:02 PM</DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> Re: STILL [Syty] Broke & Stumped!</DIV></DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV><BR>Get in touch with Bruce Plecan of the turbo regal web site
since he <BR>took the stock sy/ty computer and made it work for the GN
motor.<BR>He has a wealth of knowledge on this subject.<BR><BR>Quoting DOlivares
<<A
href="mailto:seravilo@netzero.net">seravilo@netzero.net</A>>:<BR><BR>> BM
Computer was good because they gave me a nice canned set of <BR>> hex-tables
to correspond to the changes I wanted to program FOR THE <BR>> GN TURBO
only. I'm trying to get the equivalent set-up for the SyTys <BR>>
now... from the same outfit if possible<BR>><BR>> If you knew how long it
took me to wean myself off my suped-up <BR>> Commodore-64 to a PC, you'd
understand my reluctance to trash my <BR>> existing hardware/software and
learn something else....<BR>><BR>> D.O.<BR>>
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------<BR>><BR>>
----- Original Message -----<BR>> From: Jim Sloan<BR>> To:
'DOlivares'<BR>> Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 8:41 AM<BR>> Subject: RE:
STILL [Syty] Broke & Stumped!<BR>><BR>><BR>> I don't know about BM
computer, but the Pocket Programmer should work <BR>> for most sy-ty
chips. Transtronics (<A
href="http://xtronics.com/">http://xtronics.com/</A>) had <BR>> upgraded the
programmer to handle more chips, and you may need to do <BR>> that, if you
want multichip capabilities. Carl, at Transtronics, <BR>> could tell
you if your model would work with the chips you want to <BR>>
use.<BR>><BR>> Datamaster is probably the most popular way to monitor the
ALDL. <BR>> Tunerpro is a free download, and can be used to monitor the
aldl, and <BR>> edit binaries. I also have Promgrammer and TunerCat for
editing. <BR>> Promgrammer is pretty cheap. TunerCat is more
expensive.<BR>><BR>> Emulators, like the Ostrich and Romutator, are useful
if you have a <BR>> wild build and need to make lots of changes to get things
running. I <BR>> used one when I first started burning 50 lb chips, and
55 lb chips. <BR>> There wasn't much to go on then, except stock
bins. A chip <BR>> programmer is sufficient for most people, and is
cheaper.<BR>><BR>> Jim<BR>><BR>><BR>><BR>>
------------------------------------------------------------------------------<BR>>
From: DOlivares [mailto:seravilo@netzero.net]<BR>> Sent: Friday,
February 03, 2006 8:09 AM<BR>> To: Jim Sloan<BR>> Cc: <A
href="mailto:syty@syty.org">syty@syty.org</A><BR>> Subject: Re: STILL
[Syty] Broke & Stumped!<BR>> Importance:
High<BR>><BR>><BR>> I've been pouring over his 'Site the past
week and been thinking <BR>> about the very same thing!<BR>><BR>>
I never really got into reprogramming the SyTy stuff and all my <BR>>
experience was based on work with the GN/TTA Buick chips after I <BR>>
invested in all that BM Computer/Pocket-Programmer stuff years ago.
<BR>> However, now that I want to move into the SyTy world with this gear,
<BR>> THOSE CLOWNS WON'T RESPOND TO ANY OF MY E-QUESTIONS and may well be
<BR>> out of business... or just not give a damn!<BR>><BR>> I'm
not sure which direction to take now and keep hearing about <BR>> Tuner-Cats,
Ostriches, Moates' wares-- and now you and your kind <BR>>
offer!<BR>><BR>> Whatever I end up with, I would like to be able to
DO MYSELF and not <BR>> have to rely on the mails-- and other
strangers. I am also reluctant <BR>> to part with all my familiar BM
Computer junk and learn a new system <BR>> UNLESS I could be assured it was a
more CAPABLE or versatile than <BR>> what I got. Any ideas in this
regard?<BR>><BR>> D.O.<BR>>
------------------------------------------------------------------------------<BR>><BR>>
----- Original Message -----<BR>> From: Jim Sloan<BR>> To:
'DOlivares'<BR>> Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 7:55 AM<BR>>
Subject: RE: STILL [Syty] Broke & Stumped!<BR>><BR>><BR>>
Dennis,<BR>><BR>> I thought of something else. I can burn
whatever binary you want <BR>> onto a stock memcal, if you want to bypass the
10-1 hardware.<BR>><BR>> Craig Moates at <A
href="http://www.moates.net/index.php?cPath=25_36">http://www.moates.net/index.php?cPath=25_36</A>
also <BR>> sells GM adapters, if you want to go that route. I think
Craig's <BR>> adapters are a little more robust than the old 10-1
hardware.<BR>><BR>> Jim<BR>><BR>><BR>><BR>>
----------------------------------------------------------------------------<BR>>
From: DOlivares [mailto:seravilo@netzero.net]<BR>> Sent:
Thursday, February 02, 2006 10:01 AM<BR>> To: Jim
Sloan<BR>> Cc: <A
href="mailto:syty@syty.org">syty@syty.org</A><BR>> Subject:
STILL [Syty] Broke & Stumped!<BR>> Importance:
High<BR>><BR>><BR>>
Jim,<BR>><BR>> When you say you
keep around a "Spare ECM," do you mean the <BR>> plug-ins or the whole ECM
Box? Based on my latest tests, the FI <BR>> Drivers-- and whatever
controls them-- are being victimized by either <BR>> a thermal or a timing
(delay) problem. I understand how SEUs can <BR>> screw up chips IN
SPACE or other rad-hostile environments, but I <BR>> kinda figured I was safe
from all that junk in my car! I wonder who <BR>> sent that cosmic ray
my way...?<BR>><BR>> I took out
the 10-n-1 Interface yesterday but things are <BR>> really no better.
The Injectors batch-pulse fine then weakly at <BR>> unpredictable times and
for durations up to 30 seconds until I reach <BR>> full-warm-up after about 7
minutes, depending on ambient air-temp. <BR>> Sunday, the thing
actually started pooping out (choking and <BR>> sputtering but throwing
nothing more than a Code 44, which is <BR>> practically useless information!)
on the expressway at 70mph... long <BR>> after I was well into warm,
closed-loopery. This thing is getting <BR>> REALLY BAD and, as admitted
before, I don't really know what to do <BR>> about it! I can't even
take it to a garage or even the dealer! They <BR>> know less than I do
and will only pull all my goodies and restore me <BR>> to overpriced NOS crap
for well over a THOU$AND! Do you know where I <BR>> can get a new
ECM... CHEAP? Know anybody who reconditions old ECMs? <BR>>
Electrodyne or Spearco or somone like that had a "E6" plug-compatible <BR>>
ECM which was PC-programmable, but I forgot all the details... maybe <BR>>
this is the time to go the DFI route once and for all...? <BR>>
Unfortunately, neither my wallet or my temperament are willing to <BR>> part
with all that Delco firmware just
yet.<BR>><BR>> In a few hours,
I'm gonna gut the whole ECM out of my <BR>> still-on-jackstands Typhoon and
do more swap-in tests on the Old <BR>> Horse #773. IF that solves my
problem-- and I still have profound <BR>> reservations-- I'll still need to
do something in the way of <BR>> rehabilitating my old MEMCAL or ECM-- not to
mention the 10-n-1 <BR>> upgrade I want to eventually put
back.<BR>><BR>> Any
thoughts?<BR>><BR>> D.O.<BR>>
----------------------------------------------------------------------------<BR>><BR>>
----- Original Message -----<BR>> From:
DOlivares<BR>> To: Jim Sloan ; <A
href="mailto:syty@syty.org">syty@syty.org</A><BR>> Sent:
Monday, January 02, 2006 12:06 PM<BR>> Subject: Re: [Syty]
Broke & Stumped!<BR>><BR>><BR>> Thanks... so far,
and happy New Year... et pax hominibus boni
voluntatis!<BR>> [You know who you
are.]<BR>><BR>> Unfortunately, I have tried all those
diagnostic trees-- even a <BR>> couple of bushes for good measure! This
episode has been going on <BR>> for nearly a month. As I said, I'm
running out of hardware to <BR>> swap-out. The only things I haven't
diddled with is the EST Module <BR>> in the Distributor and of course the
ECM/chip.<BR>><BR>> The reason I haven't fooled with
those things is that the <BR>> misbehavior complained of is SO PREDICTABLE
and only afflicts <BR>> COLD-START-UP conditions, except when it's really
cold outside in <BR>> which case I will get precisely ONE chug-a-lug spasm
about 5 minutes <BR>> into the run-up to full operating temperature... just
after <BR>> everything had been going just fine. That's the worst of
it... as <BR>> far as I can tell without a scantool... seat-of-the-pants
power and <BR>> smoothness is better than ever, otherwise. This is no
<BR>> "intermittent." This is pure predictability! And my
experience with <BR>> bad chips and modules is that they either fail outright
or exhibit <BR>> sporadic, random upsets... before failing outright.
That's not <BR>> what's occurring. Even so, I might drop in my spare
EST (Holley <BR>> Annihilator) just for
laughs....<BR>><BR>> Keep thinking... what else could it
be??? What's the connection <BR>> to cold/cool ambient
temperature?<BR>><BR>> D.O.<BR>>
----------------------------------------------------------------------------<BR>><BR>>
----- Original Message -----<BR>> From: Jim
Sloan<BR>> To: 'DOlivares' ; <A
href="mailto:syty@syty.org">syty@syty.org</A><BR>> Sent:
Monday, January 02, 2006 8:11 AM<BR>> Subject: RE: [Syty]
Broke & Stumped!<BR>><BR>><BR>> Happy New Year
Dennis!<BR>><BR>> I've had hardware problems with
several of the 10-1 adapters. You <BR>> could swap back to the stock
memcal (and map sensor) to rule that <BR>> out, if your build isn't too
radical.<BR>><BR>> I usually keep at least one spare ecm
for a substitution test, and <BR>> have seen quite a few fail in weird
ways. Let me know if you need <BR>>
one.<BR>><BR>> Sometimes it helps to go back to the
basics, and follow the <BR>> diagnostics in the service manual <A
href="http://syty.org/old/d&e-code44.html">http://syty.org/old/d&e-code44.html</A>
<BR>> .<BR>><BR>> Just a few ideas, if you haven't
already tried them.<BR>><BR>>
Jim<BR>><BR>><BR>><BR>>
--------------------------------------------------------------------------<BR>>
From: <A href="mailto:syty-bounces@syty.org">syty-bounces@syty.org</A>
[mailto:syty-bounces@syty.org] On <BR>> Behalf Of
DOlivares<BR>> Sent: Sunday, January 01, 2006
7:36 PM<BR>> To: <A
href="mailto:syty@syty.org">syty@syty.org</A><BR>>
Subject: [Syty] Broke & Stumped!<BR>>
Importance: High<BR>><BR>><BR>> Who
watches The Watcher?<BR>><BR>> Who advises
The Guru?<BR>><BR>> Who assists The Good
Samaritan?<BR>><BR>> I think we're about to
find out pretty soon-- at least until I <BR>> can get my Lapdog running again
(and one of the diagnostic programs <BR>> to troubleshoot my li'l
pony):<BR>><BR>> Meanwhile, I NEED
HELP! With my laptop in pieces all over the <BR>> bench, I can't run
DIACOM or DATALINK to give me clues about the <BR>> usual
suspects:<BR>><BR>> Clean-livin' doesn't
always pay off if my holidaze so far are <BR>> any indication. I spent
Christmas Eve on a carlift taking apart my <BR>> right-front axle-- again!--
after being assured by our local <BR>> "Gear-Guru" (who fully rebuilt that
differential less than 6 months <BR>> before I started hearing that same
CLUNKING on left turns again) that <BR>> all I needed was a new cir-clip (GM
#14041989) to keep the axle from <BR>> popping-out of the side-gear in the
differential. HAH! More bad <BR>> advice and I ended up taking a
cab home.... More about that Horror <BR>> Show in a later
mailing.<BR>><BR>> Meanwhile, we got our
first technical freeze down here in what <BR>> was becoming tropical San
Antone on Nov. 17th and our first <BR>> hard-freeze, appropriately, on Dec.
7th, and somewhere in between <BR>> those times ol' Syclone #773 began
throwing fits during start-up and <BR>> for the first 5 or 6 minutes until
the water jacket hits and stays at <BR>> 180° or so. I'm stumped for
the first time in a decade or more! <BR>> Here's what
happens:<BR>><BR>> Since the new Walbro
fuel-pump went in a few months ago, <BR>> cranking times are way down...
engine catches pretty quick, but now <BR>> it won't stay lit and "choke" with
the new IAC, which went in along <BR>> with a new TPS and remote-adjustable
FPR about a month before the new <BR>> Walbro. Now, I have to feather
the pedal once the ignition gets <BR>> going and hold the throttle open a bit
while the IAC hunts for about <BR>> a dozen cycles making the tach swing
about 1200 rpm back and forth <BR>> until we hit the "sweet spot" and the
engine takes off smoothly and <BR>> the IAC-hunting stops, at least for a
while. Now, it's safe to put <BR>> her in gear and drive away as long
as I keep a little positive bias <BR>> in the pedal for the next few minutes
every time I have to slow down <BR>> to an idle or coast
speed.<BR>><BR>> THIS PROBLEM IS WICKEDLY
WORSE ON COLD DAYS, where ambient air <BR>> is in the 40s or below, which
thankfully is rare. (Ain't this <BR>> global-warming great!)
However, on a couple of occasions when I did <BR>> have to drive in the 30s--
and even after reaching full-warm-up <BR>> temperature-- the engine starts
cutting out seriously as the SES <BR>> light comes on! Now, we're
talking some MAJOR pumping of the pedal <BR>> to keep things lit and if I can
get on a clear piece of road and <BR>> cruise a spell at 35 mph or better the
problem goes away completely, <BR>> until I shutdown and the engine gets cold
again. I barely even <BR>> recognize that SES light... hardly ever see
it. Driving on warmer <BR>> days never sees a recurrence of that
mid-period cutting-out, and idle <BR>> is smooth as is the rest of
drivability. Warm start-ups see a few <BR>> moments of that
IAC-hunting, but the rpm-sweeps are only on the order <BR>> of 500rpm and the
whole anomaly goes away in about 30 seconds. I've <BR>> NEVER
encountered anything like this in my many years of wrenching! <BR>>
Now, it's time for some wretching!! All that ever gets logged in the
<BR>> way of a trouble-code is 44... not too
helpful!<BR>><BR>> Naturally, I replaced the
O2 sensor-- no improvement at all! <BR>> Everything described above
instinctually told me this was a weird <BR>> thermal transient in the
injector-drive circuits or else the MAT, CTS <BR>> or MAP I replaced (for the
hell of it) 3 years ago needed to be <BR>> switched again. So I did...
one at a time to see if I could <BR>> fault-locate the culprit that
way. No dice! I'm running out of <BR>> hardware to replace!
I've even tried setting that 10-to-1 Chip to <BR>> different settings, but
the same nasty behavior persists-- the <BR>> engine's as well as my
own!<BR>><BR>> WHO CAN TELL ME WHAT MY
PROBLEM(S) IS? Be nice,
now....<BR>><BR>> Dennis
O.<BR>><BR>><BR>><BR>>
----------------------------------------------------------------------------<BR>><BR>><BR>>
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