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<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'>I can only offer what I have done in
similar instance. The first thing is these engines are easily damaged by low
fuel pressure. When fuel pressure is low, the engine will run lean and the
excessive heat will damage the rings and you will end up with low compression. This
will exhibit itself as a rough running engine. There are several major things
to make an engine run correctly but the major items are good rings and valves, good
fuel pressure and injectors, no vacuum leaks, good plug wires& plugs,
electrical system, timed properly, and good computer. <o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'>You can ensure fuel delivery system by
checking fuel pressure as you have already done.<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'>You can check timing with EST lead
disconnected in cab as you have done.<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'>The last easy check is to physically check
all the lines on the Vacuum tubes to ensure no leaks<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'>Pull all plugs but ensure you label the
plug wires so they get put back on in the proper order. With all plugs removed
check compression around 160 lbs<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'>Replace all plugs and double check the
wiring from distributor to each plug to ensure the wires are in the correct
firing order at the distributor cap and replace the wires if they are suspect
or are the factory originals (as you have done)You should also check condition
of the rotor and cap to see if they need to be replaced (as you have done).<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'>In the past I have simply replaced these (as
you have done) along with the coil just to know I eliminated them as a possible
issue.<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'>Wires, Plugs, rotor, cap, coil total cost
will be about $150 but worth it to provide several years of good performance.<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'>I had the issue three times that you are
experiencing: 1<sup>st</sup> time it did not run real bad but had a noticeable rough
feeling due to bad rings on cylinders 3 and 5 due to low fuel pressure (rebuilt
the engine (90,000 miles) rebuilt with race parts so cost was high ($2500). 2<sup>nd</sup>
time was due to having the engine out of time. I had replaced the intake
manifold gasket material at the rear of the intake because an oil leak that had
developed (the sealer I used at rebuild did not hold up: the GM sealer designed
for this was used this time and it holds up). When I put the distributor back
in I forgot to disconnect the EST wire in the cab when I timed the engine. The
engine would idle OK but when driven and I pressed the accelerator it would
hardly run. I disconnected EST an timed to 0 Degrees to fix the problem. 3rd
time when I floored accelerator engine would not accelerate well and pinged. I Fixed
a vacuum lead that was disconnected at the tube junction just to the right and
slightly in front of distributor. <o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'>I approach these issues in this manner. If
you have fuel, spark, and timing the engine will run. The first thing I check
is Fuel pressure, next I check for timing and spark at each cylinder using a
timing light on all plug wires. IF I have fuel, Spark, and timing there should
not be an issue so then I go to things like replacing plugs, plug wires, rotor
& cap as you have done.<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'>All this having been said and noting the
work you have done it really does seem you have eliminated all possible problems
except a vacuum leak and a compression test. To me the most often correct
answer to your particular symptoms is timing. I would double check this one
more time making sure the EST wire is disconnected and the timing light is on
plug number 1and also try it on plug wire for number 4.<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'>To go any deeper you should use Diacom
software.<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal><b><font size=2 face=Tahoma><span style='font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Tahoma;font-weight:bold'>From:</span></font></b><font size=2
face=Tahoma><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Tahoma'>
syty-bounces@syty.org [mailto:syty-bounces@syty.org] <b><span style='font-weight:
bold'>On Behalf Of </span></b>ken & deb rose<br>
<b><span style='font-weight:bold'>Sent:</span></b> Sunday, January 07, 2007
8:08 PM<br>
<b><span style='font-weight:bold'>To:</span></b> Syty@syty.org<br>
<b><span style='font-weight:bold'>Subject:</span></b> [Syty] engine problem</span></font><o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:
12.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
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<p style='margin-bottom:12.0pt'><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span
style='font-size:12.0pt'>I am stumped!! I put a brand new MCoy engine in my
truck two years ago and it ran fine until I ran the truck almost out of
gas. Shortly there after one of my new injectors stuck OPEN so
I replaced it and all was well. The following year my son tj noticed that
the knock sensor was broke..must of happened when the engine was put in by my
brother n law. So tj put a new sensor in and the truck would hardly run so
he checked the timing and it was at 40 degrees advanced and yes he
unpluged the wire in cab first. He reset timing to zero and truck idled fine.
Now if you drive it like an old lady it runs ok but as soon as you give her
some pedal it runs terrible. It backfires and misses.We put in new plugs cap
and rotor then drove it for a while and rechecked plugs and they looked good.We
also rechecked fuel pressure and it was fine.. forgot to mention the old
plugs we replaced had to wide of a gap which could of been from detonation we
suspect, but maybe they were not gaped right when put in. Never heard the motor
pinging at all tho. The truck has not been driven much so the motor has
maybe 1500 miles on her and was never beat on. We still have to check the
injectors with tjs noid tester to see if one or more is sticking. We wonder if
the distributer is bad cause it was the only thing I did not replace on the
motor. I bought all new sensors before motor was put in.Also plugged in code
reader and all was good. But come to think of it me and the kid seem to think
the old motor with a bad rod had more snot to it but hard to say. Could my
computer be bad?? Anyone have any ideas what could be wrong? Also forgot to
mention that the motor revs fine when sitting in park, , No miss.. Idles a bit
rough but it does have a cam...almost seems like a slite miss at idle but could
be the cam.. I AM AT THE END OF MY ROPE WITH THIS MOTOR..KEN.....<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
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<br>
<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p><font size=3 face="Lucida Handwriting"><span style='font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:"Lucida Handwriting"'>kenneth h rose jr <img
width=12 height=12 id="_x0000_i1025"
src="http://graphics.hotmail.com/emrose.gif"> <img width=12 height=12
id="_x0000_i1026" src="http://graphics.hotmail.com/emrose.gif"> <img
width=12 height=12 id="_x0000_i1027"
src="http://graphics.hotmail.com/emsmiled.gif"> <img width=12 height=12
id="_x0000_i1028" src="http://graphics.hotmail.com/emsmilep.gif"></span></font><o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 color=black face="Times New Roman"><span
style='font-size:12.0pt;color:black'><a href="mailto:rosekendeb@hotmail.com">rosekendeb@hotmail.com</a><o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
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<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:
12.0pt'><a href="http://g.msn.com/8HMAENUS/2737??PS=47575" target="_top">Dave
vs. Carl: The Insignificant Championship Series. Who will win? </a><o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
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