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<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>This info is absolutely
<EM>GREAT!!</EM></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>Who has time,
inclination or even a clue as to where to begin searching all those
Archives? Not me; I hardly ever go to those more private "aficionado
websites" in the first place... just never developed the habit... always
preferred <EM>this</EM> Forum, even with all its notorious
flamethrowers.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>Anyhow, I got
the<STRONG> '72530</STRONG> Fel-Pros (<EM>always</EM> to be selected over that
cheesy Victor junk!) last week and am not overly concerned about marginal
performance gains with one brand/material over another at this point since I'm
only pursuing a stop-gap fix and will do a proper head-refurb with machined
bosses and spring-loaded teflon seals on both intakes and exhausts later next
year or so. Dave, you wouldn't believe the SMOKE this poor li'l
whipped-horse has been pumping out these past couple o' months! It's
positively scary!!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>What I'm most concerned
about is doing as little paranoid prep-work as possible so I can get back on the
road ASAP. Specifically, <STRONG>I <EM>DON'T</EM> want to have to use my
spark-hole chuck to hold up the valves</STRONG> 'cause I have to remove my front
tires to get at those damn 'plugs and there's at least an hour I can save right
there. (No, don't preach or groan: Even with <EM>every</EM> fancy
ratchet-wrench/socket/articulated extension available in the Solar System, I
cannot remove most of my sparkplugs from the top of the engine bay! Arms
too big... not double-jointed enough!!) Besides, I'm one of the
<EM>pioneers</EM> of that ol' "Rope Trick" you referred to earlier and have
gotten away with it many times... BUT NEVER ON A 'CLONE ENGINE.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>So lemme tell ya what I
want... what I really, really want, what I really, really, really... [Stop it!]
wanna know from your experience or research:</FONT></DIV>
<OL>
<LI><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>If I had each
respective piston at TDC and happened to DROP A VALVE (again, no pressurized
cylinder and assuming the old valve-stem O-ring had rotted or tore off so that
nothing could stop the valve from falling all the way through a badly worn
guide) INTO THE CHAMBER, <STRONG><FONT color=#800000>HOW FAR WOULD THE
<EM>INTAKE</EM> FALL THROUGH THE GUIDE?</FONT></STRONG> Would the tip
disappear completely into the valve-guide before the valve came to rest at the
top of the piston?</FONT></LI>
<LI><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>Ditto... <STRONG><FONT
color=#800000>HOW MUCH FARTHER WOULD THE <EM>EXHAUST</EM> VALVE
DROP?</FONT></STRONG> (This is strictly theoretical since I'm
<EM>only</EM> planning to replace the 'guide-boss seals on the
<EM>intakes</EM> and will likely leave the exhaust O-rings alone.
They're easy to test for leakage fully assembled anyway... just a few drops of
penetrating-oil on the keepers. And, remember, I'm in a hurry on this
job! Still, ya never know....)</FONT></LI>
<LI><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>That old <STRONG><FONT
color=#800000>VALVE-COVER GASKET THANG</FONT></STRONG>....</FONT></LI></OL>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>Those 3 roadblocks are
the only thing keeping me from propping open the Hood and diving into the ol'
Toolchests... after clearing out all those cobwebs formed thereupon after all
these years of neglect. <EM>Shame on me!</EM> If my NIASE
card/patches were still up to date I'd make me turn myself in!!!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>So whaddaya say,
Dave?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>D.O.
<HR>
</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000080 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=sytydave@gmail.com href="mailto:sytydave@gmail.com">Dave Goodhue</A>
</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=gary@thesantacruzhouse.com
href="mailto:gary@thesantacruzhouse.com">Gary H</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Cc:</B> <A title=seravilo@netzero.net
href="mailto:seravilo@netzero.net">DOlivares</A> ; <A title=syty@syty.org
href="mailto:syty@syty.org">SYTY</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, July 01, 2007 4:49 AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [Syty] Valve-Cover
Gaskets...?</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>This is a thread on valve seals. I can't remember which
exhaust valve<BR>seals I used though. I think I used the SS72711. but I
may have used<BR>SS72529.<BR><BR><A
href="http://www.syty.net/forums/showthread.php?t=10647">http://www.syty.net/forums/showthread.php?t=10647</A><BR><BR><BR>><BR>>
I used the comp cams website for finding zero lash, I think I did my
valve<BR>> with 1/2 turn of preload. I did them with the engine
running as well, it<BR>> wasn't that hard either. Here's another good
thread about valve seals. It<BR>> appears that on some (maybe most?)
sy/ty engines, valve seals don't come on<BR>> the exhaust side. There
are o-rings instead.<BR>> You can replace the o-rings with hi-temp
valve seals. Waiting for Sy2455<BR>> to reply with the part
#.<BR>> Gary<BR>><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>