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Gary H wrote:
<blockquote cite="mid468768A7.2050701@thesantacruzhouse.com" type="cite">
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Dave Goodhue wrote:
<blockquote
cite="midba3beb080706301200m1c65ee58x65a45b0ba5bdbe96@mail.gmail.com"
type="cite"><br>
<br>
<div><span class="gmail_quote">On 6/30/07, <b
class="gmail_sendername">DOlivares</b> <<a
href="mailto:seravilo@netzero.net">seravilo@netzero.net</a>> wrote:</span>
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style="border-left: 1px solid rgb(204, 204, 204); margin: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex; padding-left: 1ex;">
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<div><font color="#000080" face="Palatino Linotype" size="4">Funny,
your message hit just as I was doing some last-minute research on that
very project! Without back-up transportation, I have to make sure I
can start early enough to get done before sundown and assuming I can
get a break from the regular rainfall we've been getting. </font></div>
<div> </div>
<div><font color="#000080" face="Palatino Linotype" size="4">I
thought I had all my parts and tools lined up for the job, but now as I
review the tech-manual I'm wondering about the GASKET for the valve
cover.</font> </div>
<div> </div>
<div><font color="#000080" face="Palatino Linotype" size="4">Traditional
American motors up through the mid-80s use cheesy gaskets that cook
onto the heads and usually come apart upon removal after a number of
years; however, I was delighted to find the <strong>embedded-type
plastic gasket</strong> on my '89 Trans Am heads. You don't even have
to be that careful removing the cover; the gasket remains fixed and
resilient in its channel. <strong><font color="#800000">
Will the Syclone valve covers be the same</font></strong>, or do I need
to order up a new set of gaskets before I get those covers off? The
Great Unknown! <strong><font color="#800000">Anybody out there with
the answer? </font></strong></font></div>
<div> </div>
<div><font color="#000080" face="Palatino Linotype" size="4">You
can see my anxiety. If I hadn't been unpleasantly SURPRISED so many
times in the past by such little, petty crap that grinds everything to
a halt I wouldn't be such a conservative fuddy-duddy today.... </font></div>
<div> </div>
<div><font color="#000080" face="Palatino Linotype" size="4">I've
also got some shortcuts in mind for this job... I hardly ever do
anything by the book anymore. Most of those procedures are written for
the paranoid. I'll try to keep up the record of what I end up
doing.... </font></div>
<div> </div>
<div><font color="#000080" face="Palatino Linotype" size="4">D.O.
</font></div>
</div>
</blockquote>
<div> </div>
<div>The gaskets are rubber, that are supose to stick into the
grove. However, the first time I did the valve cover without having
the top end of the motor they kept falling out. I tried a new set of
gasket without any luck (like a couple hours of cursing), I ended up
redo them becuase they were leaking. I ended up using 4 of those metal
binder clips to hold the valve cover gaskets in place until got the
valve covers in place. It worked great. </div>
<div> </div>
<div>I think I bought something like this.</div>
<div> </div>
<div><a
href="http://www.staples.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/StaplesProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10001&prodCatType=0&catalogId=10051&productId=143830&cmArea=SEARCH">http://www.staples.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/StaplesProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10001&prodCatType=0&catalogId=10051&productId=143830&cmArea=SEARCH
</a></div>
<div> </div>
<div>To get the valve covers off they are pretty easy, driverside
is
harder to do, the back nut on the MAP/EGR Solenoid, Coil, is a little
challenging if you don't want to pull the upper intake or distributor
off, but its do able. You need to remove one of the Alternator bolts
as well. Passenger side is basically the Upper IC. </div>
<div> </div>
<div>As for doing the valve stem seals, I did mine with the top end
apart, but I am pretty sure I could do them with the valve covers off.
I was able to adjust the valve with the engine running a short carboard
shield to keep splashing off the engine (make sure its warmed up
first). I was worried I didn't adjust them properly following the comp
cams article about finding zero lash, but I had. </div>
<div> </div>
<div>For the valve seals I would do it with an air compressor,
spark
plug air fitting, and spring compressor. I tried the 'rope trick' to
hold up the valves. It was no trick it took way to much time. The time
it took me to do #1 cylinder with rope I did 2-6 with an air
compressor. For doing the seals themselves, myclone responded to me
with a perfect description on how to do them. #5 was a little tight
for the spring compressor with the brake booster in the way, I had used
a stamp steel spring compressor that my father bought in the 60's. </div>
<div> </div>
<a href="http://www.syty.net/forums/showthread.php?t=11752">http://www.syty.net/forums/showthread.php?t=11752</a><br>
</div>
<div>I used the comp cams website for finding zero lash, I think I
did my valve with 1/2 turn of preload. I did them with the engine
running as well, it wasn't that hard either.</div>
</blockquote>
Here's another good thread about valve seals. It appears that on some
(maybe most?) sy/ty engines, valve seals don't come on the exhaust
side. There are o-rings instead.<br>
You can replace the o-rings with hi-temp valve seals. Waiting for
Sy2455 to reply with the part #.<br>
Gary<br>
</blockquote>
<br>
Whoops.. looks like I forgot to post the thread:<br>
<br>
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.syty.net/forums/showthread.php?t=48852&highlight=valve+seal">http://www.syty.net/forums/showthread.php?t=48852&highlight=valve+seal</a><br>
<br>
I think someone already posted the part no. Thanks!<br>
Gary<br>
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