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<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>Those old sniffers by
Sun and such had <EM>no</EM> capability with NOx... only unburned-HC and
CO.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>It's been a long time,
but I seem to recollect that the weakest link in those instruments was the
<STRONG>SENSORS</STRONG>. They were highly susceptible to contamination,
mechanical shock damage (like they do regularly on <EM><U>American Body
Shop</U>--</EM> the funniest show currently on the planet!), and just plain
aging. The HCs were the least durable but were wider in "bandwidth" than
the solid-state versions we all drive around with in our vehicles today.
Sun used to recommend a sensor-change-out every 3 years or so just on
principle....</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>And that leads me to my
recommendation for you: DON'T WASTE YOUR MONEY on one of those old
cabinets, unless you could get it for free or at an obscene discount, as I
did... unless you're not that interested in precision and are only looking for
trended results. I recall that J.C. Whippeny & Co. used to sell a
portable all-solid-state tester from England for about $300 for either CO or
HC. I've got it-- still new in the box-- lying around somewhere and, on
paper, it looked great! That was nearly 10 years ago... but that's the way
to go: <FONT color=#800000>Go <EM>modern</EM> technology!</FONT>
There's several catalog outfits that market ultra-reliable/accurate
handheld gas-sensors of all types and ranges to ASHRAE, OSHA, and EPA-techs
and such... or the Tenneco or Borg-Warner suppliers to the DOT bunch....
THAT'S the direction I would follow if I even cared about that crap
anymore. A used/refurbished handheld unit would last you for
years.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4>D.O.
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<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Palatino Linotype" color=#000080 size=4></FONT> </DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=gary@thesantacruzhouse.com
href="mailto:gary@thesantacruzhouse.com">Gary H</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=syty@syty.org
href="mailto:syty@syty.org">syty@syty.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Friday, August 17, 2007 5:58
AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [Syty] Looking to buy a smog
machine</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>I'm thinking of buying an old smog machine to pretest my cars
before <BR>taking it to the shop.<BR>The old smog machines circa 80-90's are
relatively cheap now.<BR><BR>Anyone know what to look for when buying these
old smog machines? Can <BR>the old machines measure<BR>NOx (I'm sure they all
can measure HC and CO)?<BR><BR>I have absolutely no experience with these
machines.<BR>Thanks,<BR>Gary<BR>_______________________________________________<BR>Syty
mailing list<BR><A href="mailto:Syty@syty.org">Syty@syty.org</A><BR><A
href="http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty">http://lists.syty.org/mailman/listinfo/syty</A><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>